/ torridon conditions
We climbed a very mushy poachers on Monday 24th and e buttress bein eighe Tuesday.
Just freezing in corrie for all of Tuesday. Plenty impressive avalanche debris.
Two skilled but slightly crazy Italians ticked Gemini on Monday...
Pics of George on tuesday http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/day-trip-to-torridon.html
If Poachers was 'very mushy', that doesn't fill me with confidence about the state of the ice at Applecross.
Bailed off from summit of the A Cioch traverse today owing to unreliable, slidey, sloppy snow. Very warm 10 degrees at sea level. No chance of climbing anything until it gets a lot colder. Slopes are loaded and pretty dangerous. Avalanche trails in abundance.
Similar story on the Cuillin main ridge. Did traverse of Sgurr na Gillean two days ago which was a humongous wade. Took 11 hours.
It was raining at 950m on Liathach yesterday, so we bailed, but mates climbed poachers - they'd have to report on nick though. Umbrella Falls was looking a bit broken on the crux, but will come back in quickly with cold weather
Reckon the colder temps over the next few days will have patched up Umbrella falls or does it need a much harder freeze? (think the forecast is for around -2 @ 900m). Also has anyone been round to Beinn Eighe recently, would be interested to hear how the classic buttress routes are like currently.
Maybe a couple of days of freeze would do it - the holes on the crux weren't huge but needed filling in. If I wasn't back at work I'd go for it come Sunday and it would probably be good. Yesterday was forecast 700m fl and actually it was still raining at 950m
Some pictures of Beinn Eighe on Tuesday - http://www.pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/26-02-14-beinn-eighe-and-liathach.html . When the freezing level drops Poacher's will be great, Umbrella will possibly need some more ice at the top?
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
Make the most of this months HALF PRICE OFFER on the Five Ten Guide Tennie Mid!! Designed as a hybrid approach and... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more