UKC

torridon conditions

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 alasdair19 26 Feb 2014
Hello

We climbed a very mushy poachers on Monday 24th and e buttress bein eighe Tuesday.

Just freezing in corrie for all of Tuesday. Plenty impressive avalanche debris.

Two skilled but slightly crazy Italians ticked Gemini on Monday...

Al
 Robertgiddy 26 Feb 2014
Any info on Beinn Bhan conditions? I was thinking of March Hare's specifically, I saw it a week ago and it was looking thick but I'm not sure if it might have thawed out.
 Michael Gordon 26 Feb 2014
In reply to Robertgiddy:

If Poachers was 'very mushy', that doesn't fill me with confidence about the state of the ice at Applecross.
 BnB 26 Feb 2014
In reply to Robertgiddy:
Bailed off from summit of the A Cioch traverse today owing to unreliable, slidey, sloppy snow. Very warm 10 degrees at sea level. No chance of climbing anything until it gets a lot colder. Slopes are loaded and pretty dangerous. Avalanche trails in abundance.

Similar story on the Cuillin main ridge. Did traverse of Sgurr na Gillean two days ago which was a humongous wade. Took 11 hours.
Post edited at 19:59
 LakesWinter 27 Feb 2014
In reply to BnB:

It was raining at 950m on Liathach yesterday, so we bailed, but mates climbed poachers - they'd have to report on nick though. Umbrella Falls was looking a bit broken on the crux, but will come back in quickly with cold weather
 CMcBain 27 Feb 2014
In reply to LakesWinter:

Reckon the colder temps over the next few days will have patched up Umbrella falls or does it need a much harder freeze? (think the forecast is for around -2 @ 900m). Also has anyone been round to Beinn Eighe recently, would be interested to hear how the classic buttress routes are like currently.

Cheers
 LakesWinter 27 Feb 2014
In reply to CMcBain:

Maybe a couple of days of freeze would do it - the holes on the crux weren't huge but needed filling in. If I wasn't back at work I'd go for it come Sunday and it would probably be good. Yesterday was forecast 700m fl and actually it was still raining at 950m
 PAJames 27 Feb 2014
In reply to CMcBain:

Some pictures of Beinn Eighe on Tuesday - http://www.pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/26-02-14-beinn-eighe-and-liat... . When the freezing level drops Poacher's will be great, Umbrella will possibly need some more ice at the top?

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