UKC

I seconded this years ago when the chockstone was in place.
Since then, the alternative route (bypass) has been described as between E1 and E3. I'm not going back onto it to see for myself but I am interested in what you think.

In reply to armus:
There are 2 alternatives; straight up the crack (without the chockstone), which I think is given E3, 5c, and the traverse left onto the front of the flake, and then up which is given E1, 5b. I think the latter is the way most people do it now.

George.

In reply to GPN:


Exactly this. On the E1 variation, it can be hard to find the right line. Last time I did it, the chalk went a long way left and following my leader this way felt more like E2. I have a friend who didn't know about the lack of chockstone and battled up the crack, reporting it to be "f^cking hard for HVS!". I don't know anyone who's done it that way deliberately - logical since if you want an E3 there are much better ones on offer.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
There are a couple of pictures of my son following the pitch a few years ago on my UKC photos, we did the Nazgal finish which is excellent.

In reply to tintinandpip:

we did the Nazgal finish which is excellent.

What's the Nazgall finish?

In reply to j0ntyg:

Nazgul - excellent all the way