UKC

So I'm spending the weekend staying in Glen Nevis, when this trip was planned I was hoping to do something on the Ben in the grade III to IV range. What are my options here or within reasonable distance? I can't drive to the far NW where it seems most of the ice climbing this winter has been done and I don't want to get avalanched. I thought about Castle Gully but read in the guide that the approach is susceptible to avalanches - is there an alternative approach? What about the other ridges like NE Buttress or Observatory, could they be done by the average punter who likes a leisurely start and has an aversion to avalanches and tunnelling?

I'm guessing Aonach Mor and Glencoe are just as treacherous?

In reply to Tyler:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=579888

In reply to Tyler:
It's meant to be getting decently cold over the next day or so. Don't know if that'll be enough to stabilize everything, though.

I was thinking of going for a walk in the eastern Mamores, but even that looks like it might be worth using a bit of discretion on...

In reply to Tyler:

If I was in your shoes, I'd ski-tour the Mamores. But I don't know what kit you've got.

CMD arete is nearly always doable. There's a report on here of a recent ascent of Tower Ridge (take excavating equipment and ultra-paranoid avalanche antennae)...

In reply to Tyler:

So is everyone keeping the safe spots secret to avoid the being mobbed or is there really no safe climbing in Lochaber this weekend?

In reply to Tyler:

Hey have you seen this?
http://www.sais.gov.uk/page_lochaber.asp

Westerly aspects are much safer, if this remains the case on the forecast issued later today how about the ribs on the west face of aonach mor such as golden oldie.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks Steve, good idea, I've never been to AM and had written it off as I believed it has a rep for bad cornices, I didn't know it had multiple aspects. I guess that also crystallises my original questions better; anyone know of any good limbs with a westerly aspect?

In reply to Tyler:
AM East face is well known for cornices, but the west face tends to have less issues, I seem to remember some of the ribs pretty much end up on the plateux too. I'm not sure on current conditions, maybe the local guides can help?

In reply to Tyler:
i wouldnt be going anywhere near either of the castle gullies on Ben Nevis right now. Just my opinion though.

West Face of Aonach Mor is prob a good shout.

In reply to drunken monkey:

Castle ridge was nice yesterday, if that helps?

In reply to drunken monkey:
Aye... The castle gullies have quite a reputation I would only venture there in very stable snow conditions!

In reply to connor:

Thanks for the heads up, did you notice if the approach already avalanched? The guide says it is threatened

In reply to drunken monkey:

Oh yes, my original post meant Castle Ridge not Gully, that said I believe the approach to the ridge itself is an avalanche black spot

In reply to Tyler: The curtain sounds like it has been done this week, which should fit your bill. Have a look at mike pescods blog, I thnk he talks of Thompson route being a possible option for your grade range. Tower ridge, ridges on the douglas boulder..... quite a few options.

Andy

In reply to Tyler:

If the westerly side is OK, then the west face of Aonoch Beag is really cool and a bit more adventurous feeling than Aonoch Mor. For an epic day of cardio vascular work, walk in from Glen Nevis.

In reply to TobyA:

Better cardio-vascular reward might be soloing 3 or 4 routes on the west face of Aonoch Mor. They are really nice routes.

In reply to Offwidth:

nah, the west face of Aonach Beag is loads better. Aonach mor is a bit scrappy imho

In reply to Tyler: Was up the Ben today, loads of parties out. Queues on SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder and we tried Original Route on DB but powder over blank slabs on the first pitches. Other folk were up NE buttress (via Slingsbys Chimney) and Tower Ridge. Someone did the Curtain Rail and various parties headed up No.5 in the direction of Ledge Route. Got a lift down from the top car park from Matt Stygal who had been up Castle Ridge bright and early.

The Ben isn't a great place right now unless you are willing to get up at stupid o'clock to avoid the crowds and don't mind a shit load of wading through quite deep snow.

In reply to LakesWinter:
There is some 2 and 3 star routes on the West Face of Aonach More that are rather good IMO.

In reply to Nath93:

We saw you at the base of the Douglas Boulder today. Turned out to be no one else on SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder today, we had it all to ourselves. They must have continued round to Fawlty Towers.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yeah they are good, but the west face of Aonach Beag is more remote and exciting in my opinion

In reply to KA: Bugger ! Definitely a French party on it this morning as we chatted to them back at the hut when they were done, wish we had just headed back up from the hut to do it now !

In reply to Nath93:

Wow, there was no sign of any previous climbers on the ridge today. That said, there was a lot of snow being deposited and blown about.

In reply to KA: Hmm maybe the French dudes just did their own thing and assumed it was SW Ridge ?

Heading down Glen Coe tomorrow in hope of a better day (and maybe a route we manage to finish!).

In reply to LakesWinter:

Yeah, when I visited AB we got a bit lost in the thick mist and ended up doing a new route. I suspect there is probably still a number of new lines to do before you get to the steep buttress with Aonocrack and things like that on it.

Have skied off AB down to Steall, that was fun although it was mainly survival skiing in horrendous weather!