/ More Hoy advice
1. What's the rock quality like on Big John and Mucklehouse Wall? XS?
2. What's the best route on the Old Man?
Thanks in advance!
From my limited experience on TOMOH I would suggest the Original route is a must do, haven't done any others. Mucklehouse wall the rock is good for sandstone, no ignore that, it's just good, it would be a three star anywhere.
I don't know if the wall right of our route Paternoster has been climbed yet but it looked very sound (perhaps worth an abseil and deserves an ascent.
When I did the Old Man twenty odd years ago, it was very sandy! did the original route. doesnt look.like the others get much traffic!
Crispin Waddy has done a fair bit on TOMOH. You could get in touch via Living Stone climbing walls
The quality varies with the horizontal bedding in the rock - it can go from bomber to wet talc in a few inches, repeatedly. Not done Big John but I think the rock is worse lower down (or buried under steep grass) and better higher up. Probably still all XS due to the lichen, damp and birds though - Longhope to the right is much cleaner on the last few pitches.
Mucklehouse wall has some sandy sections and some very clean sections, but the top quarter is sandstone as good as you get anywhere.
I doubt very much that if you're up to climbing Big John or Mucklehouse wall, the best route on the Old Man for you will be the original. We did For a few dollars more on the north face, which was great. The South face and bounding aretes looked good too.
I have an account of climbing the GMB (west face) of the old man at
and Big John on St Johns Head at
They might help give a feel for those routes. I've also been on Mucklehouse Wall which was amazing but much more conventional.
The South Face is consistently and pleasantly dire :D
Elsewhere on the site
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
Everybody who has used a gas cartridge stove in cold conditions knows the lower the temperature, the poorer the performance of... Read more