/ More Hoy advice

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sparkass - on 28 Feb 2014
My previous questions re: The Long Hope got some great answers but I've some more for you.

1. What's the rock quality like on Big John and Mucklehouse Wall? XS?

2. What's the best route on the Old Man?

Thanks in advance!
Al Evans on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to sparkass:

From my limited experience on TOMOH I would suggest the Original route is a must do, haven't done any others. Mucklehouse wall the rock is good for sandstone, no ignore that, it's just good, it would be a three star anywhere.
I don't know if the wall right of our route Paternoster has been climbed yet but it looked very sound (perhaps worth an abseil and deserves an ascent.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=126320
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=121816
BigHairyIan - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to sparkass:

When I did the Old Man twenty odd years ago, it was very sandy! did the original route. doesnt look.like the others get much traffic!
adam11 - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to sparkass:

Crispin Waddy has done a fair bit on TOMOH. You could get in touch via Living Stone climbing walls
Adam Long - on 28 Feb 2014
In reply to sparkass:

The quality varies with the horizontal bedding in the rock - it can go from bomber to wet talc in a few inches, repeatedly. Not done Big John but I think the rock is worse lower down (or buried under steep grass) and better higher up. Probably still all XS due to the lichen, damp and birds though - Longhope to the right is much cleaner on the last few pitches.

Mucklehouse wall has some sandy sections and some very clean sections, but the top quarter is sandstone as good as you get anywhere.

I doubt very much that if you're up to climbing Big John or Mucklehouse wall, the best route on the Old Man for you will be the original. We did For a few dollars more on the north face, which was great. The South face and bounding aretes looked good too.
Brown - on 01 Mar 2014
In reply to sparkass:

I have an account of climbing the GMB (west face) of the old man at

http://daveeabrown.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/arguably-best-route-on-old-man-of-hoy.html

and Big John on St Johns Head at

http://daveeabrown.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/big-john.html

They might help give a feel for those routes. I've also been on Mucklehouse Wall which was amazing but much more conventional.
Fiend - on 01 Mar 2014
In reply to Adam Long:

The South Face is consistently and pleasantly dire :D
davidalcock - on 01 Mar 2014
In reply to Brown:

Great reads.

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