UKC

What's the safest way up and down in winter/current conditions, never been up before...
Thanks....

In reply to Gav Parker:

Have you looked at the avalanche forecast and compared it with a map of the Bidean massif? That should give you the answers...

In reply to Gav Parker:

Yes seen that!! Thanks....just seeking a little local knowledge!

In reply to Gav Parker:


I'll happily give you that, but first I'd like to know what your own thoughts are. Bidean is a pretty serious mountain in winter (4 killed descending it last year) so I'm genuinely interested to know what decision-making processes people are bringing to it.

In reply to Gav Parker:

Jamie

Looking at the map the whole massif faces north east...now having never been up if I arrived at the Coire nan lochan would it be feasible to gain the northish ridge or is the north east ridge doable? From the top of stob coire nan lochan drop down to the col and would the ridge then up onto Bidean be doable as it is now?? A route up from the lost valley to the col by sgreamhach looks a non starter as does an approach down the lairig Wilde?
Can it be done from dalness round the back to gain the ridge
Please be kind in your reply!!!

In reply to Gav Parker:
Or perhaps not go up at all until conditions change for the better!

In reply to Gav Parker:

Your onto the right track - approaching over the top of Stob Coire nan Lochan is often the safest approach, and definitely with current avalanche forecast - http://www.sais.gov.uk/page_glencoe.asp

This approach keeps you on ridges throughout, and also probably on beaten tracks, which is also quite important with so much soft new snow around. The only area which might prompt some thought is the final approach to the bottom of Coire nan Lochan. The final ridge to Bidean is quite steep and exposed but broad and not difficult. Just watch for the dog-leg and cornice at the top of Central Gully.

I would return the same way. All the other descents are down steep, open, north or east-facing slopes that may well be windslabbed and/or corniced. There was significant avalanche debris below the Sgreamhach col today.

I don't know anyone that's ascended or descended from Dalness. A safer aspect perhaps, but pathless and gruelling in heavy snow I suspect.

Enjoy your day.

In reply to Jamie B:

Thanks Jamie I'm up at the end of the month with some mates and this was just one of the peaks mentioned...Hopefully things will have changed for the better!
Thanks again....

In reply to Gav Parker:
Bidean is top-end as winter munros go - there are no easy or quick descents and those that do exist are often avalanche-prone. At the other end of the scale Buachaille Etive Bheag is about as safe as it gets.

In reply to Jamie B:

I did it from Dalness this summer passed, up by Coire nan Easain and joined the ridge at the 741m bealach. Returned from Bidein back over Sgreamhach. Brilliant for being unconventional and it'd be pretty safe in winter too.

In reply to kwoods:
Thanks Kevin...