In reply to HenryC:
There's a few new decent lines of Gary's at Garage Butress at Stoney which are all in good nick, as well as the newly developed Stoney West. I haven't been but I here it's better than somewhere like horseshoe.
Lots of routes in the 6's on natural(ish) rock, it's pretty rare for the peak! Also all the rest of Stoney is dry too if you want some trad.
Post edited at 09:51