/ UKC Fit Club Week 363
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s (362) thread:
NOTE:- a training article written by Alex Barrows, it could be useful to some so here it is:
Who's doing the posts for the next few weeks? Volunteers welcome, and thanks to those who have agreed to do it.
for the next few weeks we have:
09/3 - Nick Russell
16/3 - Nick Russell
23/3 – Si Cox
30/3 - nomics4sale
06/4 - ?
13/4 - ?
Summary of last week:
Joughton - fantastic efforts and achievements Jake.
mattrm - good week for you, both on climbing and weight fronts. Have you STSd this week?
AJM - not that you are officially training at the moment, but a big vicarious thank you for the help and welcome you and A have offered various fitclubbers in the last weeks.
AndrewW - I didn't catch what the weather was like, but great that you got to go tradding.
mbh - heel not good, and head not in the right place for training, full of other things. Hope it gets back on track soon.
Jamming Dodger - that was a good week that was. That roller sounds good. Chorro now imminent!
hms - you gave the TCA greens a try at least. You also pack in more acronyms than anyone else. I think it is a Bristol thing. Bristol advice re foam rollers probably not helpful, dare I say.
Alun - Great 7A(+) tick.
biscuit - off with you to Chorro! Scales rarely break when you need them to, I find....
Eagle River - feeling less ropey now?
Dandan82 - excellent effort on Live by the Sword (7a+)
grubes - a white van free week for you this week? Hope so....
nomics4sale - 4 good runs there. Ignore biscuit. What will you try that is new?Thanks for the thoughts. I'm not in a very good place at the moment, training wise, as the heel is if anything more painful than ever, and I am not even getting out to do much else.
Just Tintin - great effort on the 7a. Excuse my ignorance, but what does a "daily plank" actually entail?
pork pie girl - detail, detail, we want detail. It's not a yawn at all.
Humperdink - Great attitude, and all the best for next year at the XC Nationals!
Nick Russell - A classy booze cruise is still a booze cruise, but, why not after such mammoth winter efforts last weekend. Any news from the physio?
Ally Smith - sympathies re the lurgy. Hope it is receding now. Roll on Oliana in a fortnight.
spud_23 - inspiration and encouragement is half of what this is for, I guess!
Exile - reminds me of being out demon-dropped by fearless five year olds when my kids were that age.
mrchewy - the benefits of rest, eh? Well done on the outdoor sport.
JimmyKay -how's your knee, Jimmy?
Curious Yellow - almost got the second 7a OS - well done.
Ali - take the positives. You were on holiday, after all, and the climbing will surely bounce back.
Luke Owens - Sunshine at the Orme! Well done on the 6c+.
stevemarkperry - great race day experience there.
So, some sun starting to peak through, and a bustling exchange between the UK and Spain still going on. Well done all.
Plaudits for the week have to go to Jake for another amazing list of onsights.
Brief post from me as I gave myself a full week of rest after seven days on in Chorro. Few things felt a bit sore, with achey elbows and a bad shoulder.
Elbows have settled down now, and the shoulder is a long term thing which I was expecting to be honest, and have been feeling much better since I started physio on them a month ago. Last week was the first time it had hurt in a while so it's not too bad, and feeling better now. Anyway...
Saturday - had a 'working your weakness' day bouldering at Stoney. Had quite a good session, with the whole crag to myself. It started hailing but I carried on climbing - it felt very Jerry-esque. Warmed up traversing around on Minus Ten. Then did a 6c+ I'd tried and failed before, and a 7a+ which took me about half an hour. Basically both just eliminate polished crimp cranking, which I'm normally not very good at! I also thought I'd done my first 7B+, only to discover when I got home I'd finished on the wrong hold. Apparently I did the crux but the last move adds difficulty too, so I'll have to go back and finish it off properly. Finished off trying a 7B traverse but I was all bit damp and I'd ran out of energy so I called it a day.
Knee is feeling good at the moment, and I've played football a few times on it and had no problems. Panning on squeezing in a few runs next week to see how it is.
Been back climbing quite a lot recently. Decided to jump in my and drive up to the peak on my own yesterday. Had a good afternoon at Burbage South ticking Electrical Storm and Triangle Wall. Headed to outside for a cup of tea and some chips. Robin Hood pub car park was on the way back so I thought I'd stop and go for a gander up at Gardom's. Ended up on Suavito as there were some friendly people on it and I did it in around 5 or 6 goes. Fell off the top move twice, which I thought was good commitment. I don't usually get scared when I'm high up bouldering or on trad which I think is probably going to be my downfall one of these days.
T-Indoors, did the comp routes. Would have finished 2nd had I entered.
T-Indoors, ticked all the new whites and then had a board session. My first proper session in a while. Very psyched for the board and getting stronger again.
F-Bit of rowing and football. Nothing major
S-Peak, Burbage South and Gardom's
S-Nothing yet. Maybe put the trainers on if it stops raining and go for a jog.
Cheers chap - how is the heel? Still not right?
An interesting week for me...
First 6b - limestone and onsight (2014 goal)
First 6a+ onsight - limestone
Third 6a onsight in a row on limestone(Happiest with this)
First VS onsight on grit
First mono hangs on Beastmaker - one foot on tho! This is progress!
First groundfall outside - ouch. Bruised heel and twisted other ankle.
Realising I really can't jam - on lead, bad move. See above.
Found out mate had a massive fall in Scotland. Smashed face, rescued 13hrs later and in hospital for 9 days. He was on his own. I was meant to be away with him.
Mon - Blue skies and limestone bolts on the A55. Almost onsighted 6b+ too but it was just nice to be in the warm, in Wales and climbing well. Wall later doing hangs with foot on, tried two fingers for the first time. EEK
Tue - Proper ill. So a rest day.
Wed - Tried the V4 for the first time in a month and got the foot on the problem hold every time. Then had a mess about. Routes 5+ x 2 laps twice, 6c to halfway twice on 2nd. Hangs etc with no structure.
Thu - Wasn't in the mood to climb as heard a mate has had a 100m+ fall up in Scotland. Hangs etc.
Fri - 4 sets of 14 x 7/3 repeaters with foot on. Then played around after, managing to hang monos with foot on. Fingers responded well this week.
Sat - Stanage Popular. Warmed up on VS onsight, 2nd a top 50 VDiff (brilliant route) and wanted to do Hargreaves but someone was on it. So went and tried Kirkus Corner on Flying Buttress. Dispatched the lower slab, placed 3 bits of gear in the overhang, even got the right hand on the sloper but couldn't for the life of me pull up. I am just not strong enough in the arms, the core or the legs. Then tried a jamming VS, placed first bit of gear, went above... jam didn't jam and down I went. Hit the ground unexpectedly.
Sun - I hurt all over, it's been a full on week climbingwise and the right heel is badly bruised, the left ankle tweaked, the fingers ache, the hands are cut and I feel totally battered everywhere else. I'm giving me 10/10 for effort this week.
Glad to get on Kirkus Corner - it looks a stunning line but couldn't get past the steep and strong bit. Shame as the slab above looks brilliant. Still, it's an E1 and I shouldn't expect to onsight them. The 6b onsight (soft) was okay too but was really p'eed off to not get the 6b+ - och, it's just good to be outside eh? Happily taken my falls this week too. Even on cams.
Found a Font 7A in the Peak that'll be a long term project when I've no one to get out with, decided on a alpine ridge for the summer goal (Salbit Sudgrat) and am off to Font for easter with the club. Life is alright. Even with sore ankles.
Haha, I guess it is. We went to a museum too, if I can redeem myself with a bit of culture.
Nothing from the physio really. It's a bit too intermittent to diagnose easily, and winter climbing is the only thing that reliably brings on any pain. Of course, explain to a physio what winter climbing involves - heavy, rigid soled boots, repeatedly kicking ice, a ~20kg pack, running the descent - and it doesn't shed much light on the matter. With that sort of abuse, it's a surprise when I come back without any pain in my feet!
M - Yoga, swimming (2.2km)
T - Nothing (some kind of mild lurgy, thought I'd play it safe)
W - Ditto
T - Climbing at UCR (got to use the Bristol acronyms!), 4x4s. A proper hard session, the sort of thing I was aiming for this week.
F - Swimming (2.3km)
S - 6km run (4:45/km)
S - 6km run (4:25/km), bouldering at Bloc, the latest addition to Bristol's repertoire of climbing centres. We now have 4 to choose from!
Despite two days off, it turned into a pretty good week, though a bit light on the climbing for my liking. It was a real shame to miss the sun on Saturday, but I'd made other commitments. At least I sneaked a run in first thing, it really was beautiful out.
Running today felt pretty good too. 1km warm-up, then did the second in 4:30 (pretty good for me) and the third in 4:25. At this point, decided to see if I could keep descending for the next two, bashed out a 3:59 and a 3:50, chuffed with that. I reckon I could smash 20:00 and probably beat 19:00 on a flat 5k, just got to try - new STG.
Maintain volume, quality endurance sessions. This got a bit delayed, but just about got into it this week.
One winter climbing weekend. Tick, epic weekend trip to Torridon!
At least 2 days climbing outdoors. If I count 2 days winter, tick. However, I missed my opportunities (about 3) to get out on rock.
Short term goals (March)
Sub-19:00 5k run.
4 days out on rock. I missed 3 weather windows in Feb, must try harder!
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. (Swimming relays gala 23rd March.) I'll be doing 50m and 100m freestyle, and 50m and 100m of some other stroke.
Medium term goals (March)
Stick to the training plan. 5/12 weeks down. It's getting pretty flexible though, and might go further in that direction if the weather picks up.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Current best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Total to date: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 73/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
Many thanks for summary!
It's all change with goals and plans this week, with the news that my old mate Jo Bertalot is coming out to visit in May, with the plan to go out to Lleida area. So, less bouldering and and more power endurance (but still keep the bloddering going for Targassone trip in April).
Climb Font 7B
Switch to power-endurance work at wall
Ride 130km route with 2500m ascent on road bike.
Do some more roped climbing, get back to best sport grade (7b+)
Lose weight to under 70kg
Etape Eryri (165km on road bike) in June
Lose weight to 67kg.
LTG Sport 8a.
M - Lunchtime indoor bouldering. Felt good
T - Commuted by bike. 30km round trip.
W - Nada
T - Power-endurance session at wall. Felt promising
F - Power-endurance at wall again. Started strong but tired much quicker than on Thursday. Commuted by bike, 30km.
S - Rest
S - Bouldering at my local spot, Can Boquet. Ticked two 7As (one on the second go!). Also ticked a 6C first go, and a 6B+ which I'd done before. Then home for too much food and cake.
Weight has hovered just over 70kg for latter half of week, hopefully next week I'll see the magic 69kg appear on the scales. The next two weeks I'm going to throw myself into power-endurance and end it with a day of sport climbing, which will give me a nice indication of what I can be expecting to do in May. Then focus back on bouldering for strength before trip to Targassone. Realistically I'll be happy if I tick 7A in Targassone (grades are very tough there, in my experience), and redpoint 7b+ in Lleida region.
Enjoy the graduation stuff. BTW, I'll probably be in the Lakes the last week of May, so if you need extra support (either a pacer at the end (could probably manage 10-15 miles at a BGR pace) or a support crew somewhere), or someone to put a rope on Broad Stand for you etc, please email me your plans and I'll see if I can help.
Weight - 12st 8lbs (I put on 6lbs! :'( )
M - Rest
T - 2/3 miles, Silver How, gentle stroll
W - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks, elbows, 2 miles, 300m ish asc, Dodd
F - 7 miles, 750m ascent, Thuncar Knott, High Raise, Sergeant Man & Blea Rigg
S - 300 dish tucks and elbows
S - 300 dish tucks and elbows
After the highs of last week, the lows of gluttony. 6lbs? In a week? Well we did eat out quite a bit (Indian, Pub, Pub, Italian). Couple of nice walks. Friday was a lovely day and we went for a gentle stroll in the snow. Pity it broke my wife. She's still suffering from mega DOMS today. Still it was a lovely and relaxing week. My elbows are feeling much better now, but I suspect a week of complete rest will do that.
5 core - 3
5 elbows - 3
And daily DQS of 20+ (at 17 today)
Thanks mbh, felt fine this week. Missed my usual monday session due to a work thing and didn't do any yoga but did:
Wed: indoor bouldering at Blackburn. I didn't have long so didn't rest much between problem attempts but had a ridiculously good session. Felt strong and managed to flash a V7 (having only ever done 2 at blackburn in the past after working them). Did all the V5s and V6s apart from 1 V6 then failed on other V7s.
Sat: In the Lakes for the weekend and got a session in at Kendal wall. Really impressive facility, that main wall is immense. Did a couple of routes to warm up then did what we thought was a 6b+, got pretty pumped at the top then realised it was a 6c+ as we'd red the sign wrong. flashed a 7a which was a real fight then spent the rest of the day falling off 7a/7a+s.
Hoping for a cheeky mid week malham raid if I can get an afternoon off, apart from that it'll be at least 2 yoga sessions and 2 climbs.
I feel a bit better now. I did exactly the same on Friday. There was a black splodge obscuring the sign. I thought I was doing really badly until I figured it out later.
Thanks mbh - I'll get back on the horse in a bit! Need to get psyched for training and not eating chocolate again :)
Covered most of last week in previous post so only this weekend to add:
Sat - Kendal wall with Eagle River and the 'no take' rule (with one exception!) Got tired quickly (lack of fitness) but kept going on easier stuff until well and truly not able to hold onto anything. Felt really good to have a proper beasting session. Also did some falling (including a 4 bolt screamer) which was good for me...though still not happy with it! Will take time but not sure how I'm going to get enough route sessions in to improve.
Sun - 1 hr bimble in the lakes rain. Love the lakes :)
Nomics - Yeah not bad as Mondays go! Thanks :-)
Cheers mbh... hope you're feeling better quickly and your mate is okay.
Just reporting the second half of this week then:
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Easy boulder.
Fri - Boulder. V6 in 2 overlapping halves... but it gets taken down in a couple of days time, argh!
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Long boulder session, lots done but nothing hard.
3 x V5 - done
Weight under 63kg - nearly, 62.9kg yesterday ie. 1 March!
1 x 7b+ - done
At least 4 onsight attempts at 7a or harder - 3 attempts, 1 tick
Time on portland projects - not been down there yet, fingers crossed for some better weather soon
1 x V5
1 x V6
Weight under 62kg
Progress on Road Rage and/or Fighting Torque
Not a great week, but not too bad.
2 climbing sessions and 1 foot on campus.
Routes at AW were really frustrating. I'm still protecting my finger and so mooched about in the lower grades. On sighted a few in the 6a to 6c region and had one trip up the 6c+. Motivation was hard to find without trying hard and I could feel my body wanting to try hard.
Routes at Kendal were ace. As ER says it is now an amazing place. Did the same 6c+ thinking it was 6b+. Pulling through the lip felt well hard. Ended up feeling chuffed when it turned out to be 6c+. I fluffed the 7a as route reading was hard. Were certain volumes in ? What were the black and orange holds for ? I also struggled twice to decipher from above if it was a black hold with chalk or a white hold with boot rubber so dangled around for too long. Anyway end result was failure at the lip. I reckon I'd have got it 2nd go but didn't have time.
I also had a coaching talk with John Kettle there. Part of something new he's trying out. Very interesting NLP based stuff. Will report if it makes any difference after chorro.
Diet has been sh1t all week. Huge sugar cravings. Cans of coke and twixs galore. Not going to diet this week but will get back on the DQS. With not trying hard at climbing as well I feel fat and lethargic.
Possible session today cancelled due to my cat getting run over yesterday :-(
One campus session and climbing session this week then chorro.
Got a plan this time for 3 days of easy climbing ( I will NOT get on anything above 6c ), rest day and then red pointing.
Goal is to get annak and onsight a 7a. Not many left to try now !
I also got a bike ride in. Not anything to write home about but it was steady and no soreness the day after.
Teenagers - thoroughly sympathise, it's a bloody minefield!
Acronyms - is that a challenge? Sure I could slip in a few more TLAs is I really tried!
Fairly busy week, no stand-out break-throughs but solid.
M cycle commute
T cycle commute, UCR session - circuits, about 10 including attempts at chunks of the 7b+, 3 really good goes on the 7a+. Pleased that one move that I was having to do with a snatch I can now do using my core, so the TRX IOT may be working
W cycle commute. Evening - fingerboard. Had to be a bit careful of the niggly elbow, so didn't do any full locks as it then really hurts when I lower down from them.
T cycle commute. Evening - UCR routes. Had hoped to get on some of the new routes, but they were infested with people top-roping them which really didn't seem very fair. 12 routes in back-to-back pairs: 6a 6a+ / 6b 6b / 7a 6b+ / 6c 6c / 7b+ 6b+ / 6c 6a. Only got about 1/2 way up the 7a (foot cock-up) and the 7b+ (comp route, so thin this is where it started getting hard!)
F sneaked in a TRX session before before catching train to visit parents for weekend
S at parents, thus skilfully missing out on the niest day's weather for about the last 6 weeks!
S bouldering at Bloc - it's really really good, but also rather high. Does include a boulder that one tops out on, which is an excellent idea (my only trip to Font so far is seared i my memory mainly due to the horror of the top-outs!). Also on-sighted the 7a circuit. I'd love to say that this was due to my awesomeness, but realistically it's because it was set by a boulderer with no stamina, cos it really really isn't 7a! Anyway, not as long a session as I would have liked due to rest of family's skin giving out, so short go with the TRX when we got home.
Against my better judgement I'm going to put down some goals - scary.
MTG peak grit at easter - V3 boulder and/or E2 route. Obviously depends critically on weather, but if we get forced indoors instead then goal would be 7a route.
LTG this summer - couple of 7b routes outside, plus a 7b+. Trad - feel more steady with E3 on-sighting, headpoint a couple more E4 or above.
F - Attempt at climbing at the Matrix, finger split on third problem, so did easy open handed stuff and left early
M Run 4.6 miles - slow 9.50 pace
W Run 4.6 miles 9.25 pace
T Bell Hagg - usual early season fail on my standard problems here
F Matrix up to 6b flash, working 6b+'s
S Travel to State College
S Walk round town, scoped out a running route
Haha, the white route on the right hand side of the main wall?? The black 7a I tried was the left hand one of the two which didn't have those orange/black blobs so was more obvious.
I need to give you your guide back this week for chorro! I'll leave it at Stockport tomorrow night.
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
This week's goals:
at least 4 rides - Fail
200km in February - Fail
T: Away with work ... Recovery steak ...
W: Rokt 2 hours. warmed up. and bouldered focusing on steep ground and technical moves.
F: Cycled 17.3km 196m ascent
S: am cycled 23.4km 289m ascent. Some (relatively) big hills in that ride.
Pm trad at warncliffe
warmed up on a severe. Dropped a rope to a guy on the crux of the route next to me as it started to rain. Cleared up. then did a few more easy routes.
Lead 1xHS 1xMod 2xS 1xVD
S: Rest. Lazy day watching films with my cat.
Next week Goals:
hmm ride a good amount
North wales sports climbing with begineers
So no getting knocked over by a car this week. 1 cleat related fall. 2 big long hills for me but it took a lot of effort to get back on the bike after the crash. was okay but really uncomfortable around traffic again.
Was nice to do some easy trad with needkraken. just doing a few of routes in a short amount of time. getting used to placing gear for when trad season properly starts.
Hoping to head to north wales with some beginners for some sports climbing.
So question for Luke and Ally I guess:
Where is a good place? there is only going to be 4/5 of us. Was thinking castle inn as it has lots of 3s, 4s and 5s.
What about dyserth? I have never been before and it looks good.
If things go well we could move on to penmaen head for low 6s was my thought.
I think the orange and black holds are part of a crazy route which crosses over 4 or 5 lines, coming in from under the big roof on the right. It's not been graded or added to any of the lines yet though.
Kendal is a good wall and that big wall is ace for training but I wish they'd change the routes more frequently.
Dyserth is a nice angle, sheltered from the wind low down, gets the sun and the low 6s are easy but longish at 24m. Haven't done the easier routes but it's nicely bolted, plenty of space and carparking - there's just not a lot there. There's also a couple of new routes logged on here that aren't in the guidebook.
A much nicer venue than Castle Inn in my opinion but I haven't climbed at the Inn, it's been wet when I've been there.
Dandan82 - excellent effort on Live by the Sword (7a+) - Cheers, I was really pleased with that, it was a great progress indicator.
Another good week (feel like i'm due a bad one soon!), all exercises in the gym are still strong, nearly managed 4 sets of 8 reps 10kg weighted dips on Tuesday, it was only 6 weeks ago I managed that with no weight so thats a great improvement.
Elbows are playing up a little but i'm managing them ok, still managed to get all the training sessions I wanted done this week. I've got a 2 hour appointment with a physio in Bristol next Monday, she is the one who has been doing the injury articles on UKC so has a lot of experience with climbing ailments, i'm hoping for good things from that.
M: core; crunches, l hangs, front lever (knee bent)
Fingers; CWP fingerboard hangs, 10 sec hangs
T: Chest; bench, decline dumbell press, dips
Shoulder; resistance shoulder press machine, upright row, front dumbell raise
W: Climb; 1 hr boulder, AnPow 4 reps, 3 sets, 15 sec rests approx V4
T: Fingers; CWP fingerboard hangs, 10 sec hangs
S: Climb; Outdoor - Cuttings, Portland. 5,6a+,6b+,7a+,7a+,7b+,7b+,4+
Awesome day at The Cuttings on Saturday, glorious sunny weather and some good climbing. I got back on Men Behaving Badly (7a+) with the intent of a quick tick after thinking through the moves but it just wasn't willing to go down so easily. I'm stuck at a very low percentage snatch to a flowstone sidepull, it seems super hard so there has to be a better sequence in order to make it match the grade, whatever it is, its still eluding me.
I then had a go at Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) a 2 star bouldery classic with a crux around a split pocket that you have to hold with your fingers spread apart in pairs, a la Spock.
I worked out all but 1 move on the first dog up it, the top section above the crux is just heavenly, not too easy but a sequence of clever, distinct moves consistently to the top.
After getting some info from a previous ascensionist, it turns out the elusive move uses an undercut that was wet so I was avoiding it. With this new beta and good conditions I think it will go next session, famous last words!
STG: 7b redpoint. - No indoor attempts, progress on 7b+ outdoor
Stay injury free - mostly tick
MTG: La Carnage as Bas Cuvier in April. - soon to be a STG
Stay injury free
LTG: 8a repdoint this year
Stay injury free!
Keep the faith mbh! Your psyche will return and the injury will get fixed, but keep doing what you can in the meantime.
STG: lose some belly fat, RP 7b indoors, get back on the pinks at the depot and tick 2 more problems.
MTG: more 7as or quick 7bs in Turkey, ditto in France.
LTG: Pray for summer sunshine and get back on trad.
Mon: Stockport with the Fox. Good session, didn't get up anything cleanly but tried quite hard. Didn't take as many falls as I should - grabbed the clip, other holds, yelled take etc etc. I need to watch this as it's a bad habit to get into.
Tues: Hill reps then gentle jog. 12.5km, 487m ascent, 6.30/km.
Weds am: 7km flat run. 5.23/km.
Weds pm: BoulderUK, ticked one new V5 downstairs, flashed another upstairs and worked others. Didn't get on any V6s.
Thurs: Kendal with PPG. Good sesh, tried hard and kept going for stamina training.
Fri: core and back
Sat: Black Combe fell race. Brilliant race but my time was really embarassingly bad, just over 2 hours. 13.6km, 1,000m ascent. 8.59/km.
Sun: desultory session at the Depot. No power, I was knackered from the race. What was I thinking??
Really disappointed with the race on Saturday. I did really enjoy it but am gutted I didn't manage to go any faster. I'm not sure what I need to do to get quicker. I'm sort of thinking I will probably have to start running training, maybe some intervals, hard hill reps, run faster when I'm on my non-race plods? Dunno. Not sure I can do running training at the same time as trying hard with climbing. Not enough time, energy or focus. As I type that I realise it's just excuses, I need to MTFU.
You mean Nina? I saw her for a nasty arm injury a year or two back. She's very good and understands the stresses of climbing
We don't have any grit down here, I thought it was a pretty good assessment of how I feel after a day on grit
You can run and climb if you have the time, just replace one of your longer runs with some speed work. If you can find a club that does a speed / hill session I'd recommend that as, if you're like me, you always try harder when there are others to work with. I used to run with Helme Hill club in Kendal for this, their sessions are a Wednesday evening. Don't know where you're based though so may not be feasible.
Thanks for doing fit club - much safer week this week, no skate parks, just winter climbing!
Aims for the year:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP E6, (Blow out or Exequy at Trowbarrow) RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
M: pm: 45min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 1hr 30 at cave, warm up then power training on board
W: PM: 50min fell runs
T: pm: 1hr dry tooling
F: pm: 1hr 20min at cave working purple L - R, got it in two halves. 7a+ wall grade, 7b / 7b+ outside?
S: 7 hrs winter climbing. Original Route with direct start in northern corries. Given V 6 in the guide but a good portion of the first pitch is under snow at the moment so not sustained enough to get the grade at the moment. The tech 6 we did felt straight forward though so training working.
Weight this morning 11st 9lb
Good volume week this week. A little disappointed we didn't have to climb harder on the route on Sunday, but winter climbing is often about climbing what is there rather than climbing what you want.
Going to be a poor week training wise coming up due to work commitments - just got to use the rest and get back on it next week.
Made me smile! Have decided that probably the best training for gritstone bouldering is to do more bouldering full stop, so over the next few weeks will be spending a lot of time at Bloc I suspect. But until they get the carpet fitted, I'm going to be taking a damp teatowel round with me to try to keep my shoes clean - they were horrid after yesterday. Do think that top-out boulder is a good idea.
I must have left before you arrived at Bloc yesterday, didn't see you there. It seems pretty good, and I quite like the extra height (though combined with hard, new pads it can be a bit concerning). And yes, I too had some beached-whale fun on the topout boulder!
Speed work? Is that running fast for a minute, recovery for a minute type stuff? Does that work for going faster on hilly runs? What's the best way to start?
I'm already in a club - Bowland Fell Runners - but they don't do any training evenings, just club runs which tend to be quite slow. I might see if there's any appetite in the club for starting a speed traning evening.
And well done on the V 6!
Everything's under snow at the moment, isn't it?
That's a pretty good attitude to have, I think. I've not really bothered to set any concrete goals for winter climbing for this very reason, though there's a decent wish list at the back of my mind...
Sorry to hear about the cat Biscuit. My two are 3 years old too and looking for houses to buy has been limited by trying to find something sufficiently quiet that they'll be safe.
Climbing wise i'm just about over the lurgy, but still feeling a bit fatigued.
LTG (Sept 2014): Do some adventurous cycle touring and complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana?
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Lou Ferrino sans pocket, 8A
Keep working on flexibility – LTG: try and get back to being able to do the splits!
STG (The coming week)
- Completely get over lurgy
- Drop some more weight – 75.7kg and 6.7% BF this morning.
- If successful with the first aim; get in the groove with aero-power training – embrace the pump.
Taken the opportunity of a week of lurgy to reassess and one thing that I’ve taken from Alex’s article is that a Saturday to Saturday training week makes more sense – henceforth the changes below:
S - 100F fever lurgy.
S - Ditto.
M - Slight improvement.
T - More improvement – made it through the whole day without a nap – get me and my grown-up ways!
W - Back to work – felt wiped out again. Had a scary moment almost falling asleep whilst driving home from work. Oops.
T - Felt better (ish) and decided to chance some exercise. Bouldered at Boardroom. Got shown some of the tricks for the blue circuit (V7-8). Did 4 of them and got close on one more.
F - Nowt – 10hrs work catching up and submitting an abstract for publication.
Sorry - can't really comment. Only had a couple of sessions at Dyserth trying the steep stuff like Strawberries Man. Prettier location than a pub car-park though!
It's a mix of different training - hill reps' of different lengths, sprints of different lengths, 2 minutes on, 2 minutes off, to be honest the variations are endless. I’ve found it’s best done with a coach telling you what to do so you don’t bottle it when it gets hard, (this may just be me though!) What it does is really makes you work harder than a 'normal' run would. I think the basic effect is if you train your body to work harder so you increase your maximum output, so your normal race pace becomes a smaller percentage of your maximum, which means you can up your normal race pace. A bit like increasing power in climbing so your power endurance / endurance improves. The session I use to do was an hour long and was one of those sessions you lived in fear of as it was hard, but once my body was accustomed to working hard, I ate properly after the session and got a good night’s sleep, I could climb the next day.
In reality, what it meant for me was that after a couple of months of speed work I was able to improved my Kentmere Horseshoe best time from 2hrs 15min to 2 hrs 3 min, (this wasn’t the race route but my own variation.) I was running it reasonably regularly at the time so know that the improvement was not down to better line etc, it was pace.
At the time I was regularly doing mountain marathons and completed the Lakeland50 event and felt that even over the longer distances the speed work had a really positive effect of what I could do.
Does that make any sense?
Thanks re winter route, just need to be in the right place at the right time to climb harder now - here's hoping the climbing partner / weather / conditions / family commitments / work commitments stars align!
Where can I find this article Ally?
Yeah, it was a good day out and felt good to be able to cruise the harder climbing that was on it, just got to try to be in the right place at the right time now - always the crux of any winter day out!
It's dead nice, but like Ally - I've also only been on Strawberries. Couple of friends have done the short stuff on the right hand side and the longer easier stuff on the right. None of them have said anything bad about it.
I thought the Saturday to Saturday thing was one of those "why did I never think of that" ideas too.
Yes i'm going to see Nina, from an email description of the problem she has already diagnosed something slightly different to elbow tendonitis which makes sense to me seeing as the tennis/golfers elbow exercises haven't been entirely helpful to me.
I'm really hoping she can fix my elbows, they are far and away the most limiting factor in my climbing currently.
Always a pleasure to have people visiting. Currently loafing around in Barcelona with friends, slow morning due to some overindulgence last night, sightseeing later. That's training, right?
Anyway, I put up a blog about Chulilla yesterday or the day before - top venue and highly recommended. Definitely somewhere to put on people's radars. Helen - one for the you/Kate trip you spoke of in Chorro? I've got a sort of "progress so far" blog post in the works which I'll try and get up in a day or two basically about the first 2 months.
Thanks for doing thus mbh.
Weather not so good so some indoor training this week.
M - 30 mins run. Big fingerboard session.
T - Strength based session on woody.
W - 45 muns run.
T - Pull ups and press ups.
F - Climbing outside; laps on 6a to 6c+.
S - Outside uphill hiking, plus scoping out some new boulders.
S - Resting.
Thanks guys not been so keen to look at it if the venue is suitable.
Also to add to my post above.
Goals for this week:
Sunday Ride: flint - prestatyn - Rhyl - Dyserth - Hollywell - flint
I did indeed read your Chulilla blog and think it sounds a brilliant venue for us. Only slight snag is that Ryanair, who do Bristol<->Valencia, only do the route from Easter and not over the winter. Looks like a fair drive from Alicante but not a ridiculous one. BTW how long are the crag walk-ins?
Really well done on your 7c+. Was this like in the climbing films and the last possible attempt before leaving (cue dramatic music!)
Thanks. That does make sense. I think I'd struggle to do it well on my own too. The hill reps I do currently are on my own and I don't try very hard as a result. Hmm.
The other problem I have is that I am very slow going downhill - I get overtaken on downs more than the ups. Might see if I can do some downhill traning too.
When i went over new year we flew into Alicante and drove up to Chulilla.
It took us about 2.5hours - almost all easy motorway driving.
On the way home we had an early start, drove to Sella, did some routes there then caught an evening flight home.
That doesn't sound too desparate at all, even with teenage daughter as chief navigator. In October we had a major drama trying to find Malaga airport from the east, as the signs are crossed out & it is distinctly unobvious. We ended up on the motorway heading towards Seville, in the dark, with no idea of when the next junction might be. Traumatic, to say the least!
I have two days holiday left to use by the end of march. Anyone fancy a weekend trip somewhere like catalunya?
Definitely doable from Alicante. Probably less of a hassle doing it that way round than driving to London.
Walkins - about 15 minutes? Nothing massive.
It was the last full day I could have had on it, although I could have stretched and had another morning had I needed to. I don't think my skin would have lasted that long though! I was starting to get a bit stressed about running out of time but more in terms of skin than anything. It felt piss when I actually did it, as is usually the case compared against the other goes.
That's just practice and a good pair of fell shoes with an agressive tread pattern.
A friend of mine who is an excellent fell runner once told me to never take a side ways step - I can't do it(!) but just thinking about it does help.
The other thing I try to do is not run at a pace where I need to 'break' with my feet as it feels very disconcerting and knocks confidence. Start slow and build up.
And finally - red point cetain descents. Practice ones you know well as getting faster and faster on them will improve confidnce else where.
Realised I missed last week.. busy 2 weeks..
m: 3.04 miles 100 m ascent run with fly slow around beacucheif and too nuc bunker.
t: 12.9 miles 800m ascent harz run on drive back from FRN
w: 13.5 miles 100m ascent rostock road run 7:40 pace
t: 14.5 miles 200 m ascent lunch: trails. Pm: 8.5 on roads 7:35 pace
f: 15.4 miles lunch: river run. Pm: villages 6:45 pace
s 19.54 miles: 100 lunch: slow trail plod. Pm: 8 slow
s: 11.89 miles 200 m ascent, lunch trails. Pm: rostock road run 7:50 pace
m 14.5 miles 150m ascent, longer road and trail run then 0.5 cool down to shops
t: 10.5 miles 100m ascent am: steady run around rostock trails.. Pm: road loop 7:50s pace
w: 9 miles, 8.7 with tsotleho in the heide, 6:21 pace at 8 am. Then 0.3 mile cool down.then drove to dunkirk
t: 12 miles 400 m ascent: eve: 5.6 in woods and golf course with fly. Then 6.4 on roads usual loop down twenty well 7:20 pace
f: 13.40 miles 400m ascent am: run with fly burbage edge, pm: steady road run shefffield 7 min pace sped up through
s: 18.73 miles 600m ascent long road run in the peak, 7:12 pace, ringinglow>stangae>millstone>fox>owler>totley>home.
s: 3.30 miles flew to US slow morning plod up uppact golf course and down through greenhill
So Started this period in the UK, went to Frankfurt embassy, got US visa, drove to Rostock, back to the UK for a few days, then flew to the US and now live just outside of Philly in NJ
Had a horrid last long road run in the peak, a car passed almost clipping my arm, I shouted abuse.. he screached his breaks on, reversed back into me, knocking me backwards and then jumps out and charges at me, so I shove him back into his car.. him shouting 'did tha see me!'.. yes you fat shit I did.. a woman intervened but she was a 'stupid bitch'.. his words.. she was a runner and was pointing out I was right to be running into traffic on the road.
I should have hit him.. in the end other cars stopped and after another threat of putting me in the ditch which I said go on then? he got in his car..
I'll report it to the police but stupidly didnt get his number plate.
Cheers for doing this weeks, hope your heel improves and you get your mojo back asap.
M: lunchtime 35mins easy 4/5M, pm: Gym 2 x legs set, 1 x core set
Tu: am - gym bike 40mins, 1 x glutes set pm: 6/7M steady in 43:25 ankle still sore but running more freely
W: pm Bike session - 75mins including 4x4min,4x3min,4x2min,4x1min with 60seconds between reps and 2mins between sets.
Th: am - gym Bike 40mins, 1 x glutes set, 1 x single leg set pm: ~45mins steady run 6/7M
F: pm Gym run on treadmill - 12Km @ 16kph
Sa: Morning spent running on the Shropshire hills after my bro and friends on mountain bikes! ~14/15M with ~3500ft ascent total time 2:10ish
Su: am 36 mins easy jog 4/5M legs sore! then ~90mins walk
Total for the week 45M. My legs are still battered from running downhill on Saturday. They need to get less sore quickly! Thinking about running the intercounties on the weekend so if you are bored you may see me on Sky TV (you'll have to look hard though probably)
The easy stuff at Dyserth isn't the best.
In that area Penmaen Head has the best 6's and Castle Inn is best for the 4's and 5's. Enjoy!
Sounds a right drama! Glad you're okay tho... and I guess pleased to be heading to the States after that altercation. Hope the move works out well.
It certainly helped.. I was running at 7:30 pace til then, then put in a few 6:20 min miles I was so fired up..
Got to say road running in the peak just is hard to do. So many main roads, harder to link up quiet back roads. I've found that on the bike too, just not that enjoyable.
yeah great to be here. I've worked here so much that its all pretty familiar, have a running club, missus lives here, know her family well.
Apologies, in Scotland for winter mountaineering trip last week.
Got out on the hill Monday to Friday, but certainly not for any bouldering or climbing training. Getting back into things this week, and trying not to break myself after the layoff.
Not much to report basically.
hey folks... brief update from me
2x weights tarining inc usual pill ups
2 routes sessions at kendal...
1 session at MALHAM... YES.. MALHAM WAS DRY ENOUGH!!.. did about 16 laps bewteem consenting , free and epen easier and 7th aardvark. doggest consenting. felt pleased with how things felt for feet considering i have climbed at M for months.. ace super motivated/positive company.. i'm not kidding but i wasjust smiling my face off i was so chuffed to be back
kendal progress... led two routes clean that i've not managed to do yet...endurance feels good.. not powering out on harder stuff either. close to the 7b.. ish.. hmmm
plans this week...kendal and malham.. house move..fix MTB.. get out to lee quarry and crag quarry.. ANY MTBINGfancy joining me for training? that'll be a no then.. i'll go and ask on the cycling forum you one dimensional things you!!!
stop fishing for detail MBH.. my cakehole is zipped :o)
what does 5 elbows mean?
f*ck me.. you did a core work out.
That's really kind of you to offer and I may well take you up on something, if it fits in with you and, crucially, if I am in a fit state to have a go by then.
Almost two years of regular training has taken a tumble in the last month, not just with my heel, which still hurts, a lot, so much so that I packed in the last run I tried after a few 100 yards, but also, less seriously in the long term, due to having had every form of cold, cough and fever my body could think of in the last three weeks. My will power to do anything at all has sunk to new lows. I am not used to being ill or injured.
Anyway, I would still like to give it a go in May, unless that is silly, so I will email you my plans as soon as I can, and thanks again. That's much appreciated.
Nomics (and others) - thanks for kind, encouraging words. Keep doing those hills!
My last week - one bike ride on Monday, 23 miles, I think, about 500 m ascent (it felt hilly). Then nothing since.
On graduation ceremonies - I never did one for myself, but have done many as part of the scenery, and this was my first and maybe last as a parent, in Birmingham. They are always great. I love them.
The cold, tonight, feels like it has given up, so things are now looking up.
Seems to me your body wants a break after 2 yrs hard work.
The miles you've done are still in the bank.
Most people come back stronger after a little enforced lay off.
Try not to stress.
12 Wide Grip Pullups
20mm Edge Pull ups
Set 1: 5reps, Set 2: 4reps, Set 3: 6reps
3 x 10 Arnie Press (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Dumbbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening: 30 mins Aerocap
Hangs: 20mm edge open, 20degree sloper, 30mm edge Middle 2, 30mm edge half crimp
5 x (4 x 7 sec hang/3 sec rest) 2 mins rest between sets
Repeated the above 3 times
60 hangs in total, felt annihilated!
15 mins Aerocap warm down
Thursday: Awesome Walls Liverpool - Still felt wiped out from the repeaters on Tuesday had a feeling I was going to get powered out on everything and I did...
5+, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5+
Failed on 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6a+, 6a
Bad session, by the end of the evening I was falling off 6a's!
Sunday: Orme Bouldering, Pillbox and the Cave.
Came very closed on the "The Greek" (7A) couldn't latch the last move.
Then tried "Where's My Hippo" (7A) again got close but went back on The Greek and got worse on it. Think if I had just stuck at one of them I would of got it.
Repeated Hip Hop (6C+) and Cave Righthand (6B+). Did some good links on Right Wall Traverse (7A).
Need to get stronger on the bouldering, want to be able to do 7A's in different styles, I'm rubbish on anything steep. Working on this!
mbh ¡V daily plank is 2 minutes at the moment. So boring I can¡¦t contemplate more, but having done it all year definitely seeing results in easy core maintenance.
A good week for projects spread on 3 good sessions (gym boulder, gym lead, rock)! But ended in lurgy which has persisted so next week will not look good. Perhaps the two are connected? I shall stop whining now and rewrite my STG and MTG for March.
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Leading Brookes. Worked the 7a practising best clipping points and conserving energy. I have had all the moves from the start, it¡¦s just the stamina needed to get through lacking! Pancake regeneration snack º
T - BMC FUNdamentals 1. Then Bouldering Milton Keynes. Knocked out the new red problems and then got on projects. Fell off one move from the top on the triple problem yellow roof traverse. Then realised I hadn¡¦t breathed for 3 minutes.
F - Rest
S - Bouldering Cratcliffe and RHS ¡V 20 routes including some nice V2s and a nice balancey V3. May have overdone it a bit. 4 hours, mini hail, some sun, no eating or drinking. Fail.
S - Hit by lurgy. Rest.
An easy week this week as I have felt super-tired post-race for some reason. Still managed to get out a little bit but not as much as I'd have liked in hindsight. Missed out on a trad outing on Saturday with Stafford club as I had to work in the morning so no pitches this week :(
Weight: 138 lbs
Training Hours: 6:15hrs
Trad pitches this week (lead/second/total): (0/0/0)
Mountain bike rides / walks & scrambles: 0
W: 11km / 0:55hrs mountain bike
T: 17km walk in Peak
S: 13.2km 1:20hrs mountain bike
Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Lead Severe on leader-placed protection
10 pitches per week, lead or second
Get mountain-fit: 3 x mountain bike rides per week and/or long walking & scrambling days.
MTG (by Dec 2014):
Sleeping With The Flowers Font 7A (Roaches)
Top-10 in Run&Ride Summer Classic XC on 1st June (mountain bike race)
Get out to the Alps (Trip booked for June 28 – July 5)
500 pitches this year, lead or second (lead/second/total): (2/4/6)
Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet (on a back burner as the Churnet has now entered green mode for the most part)
Consolodate winter experience (will have to be 2014/2015 season now)
LTG (superficially grade-based for now):
Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
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