UKC

Hello,

Having come down to Wolverhampton from Edinburgh, I have a couple of people, based an hour north from me, who are interested to go for a one-off climb.

Neither has climbed before, and rather than take them to a smelly wall, could anybody recommend a pleasant traditional crag with a suitable variety of routes for top-roping that a beginner would enjoy?

My first thought is to investigate the Roaches/Hen Cloud. The nearest crags that I am familiar with (Stanage etc.) are a little too far.

I'd be very grateful for any response.

Many thanks,
Jon

In reply to Unclimbable:

Windgather is ideal.

In reply to Unclimbable:

Harborough Rocks maybe?

In reply to Unclimbable:

In my opinion this depends on the weather.

The problem with Windgather is that it tends to gather lots of wind. It also tends to attract group usage and if the weather is good then it often gets packed. My advice would be to go there if the weather's good but get there early enough to avoid the crowds. This isn't likely to be a problem at this time of year, but you never know.

Harborough Rocks is okay but it's a little loose in places and the backdrop of a large noisy factory behind is a bit grim.

The Roaches has the same problem with groups but offers a better choice than Windgather (in my opinion), due to the spread out nature of the crag and much more pleasant scenery. I'd go to the Roaches, plenty of choice for top roping. Prow Area, Heather Slab, Rooster Area are all popular but often get clogged with groups.

If you could venture further afield then Yarncliffe would have my vote on a dry day as it's quite sandy.

In reply to WJV0912:

I rarely get problems on Windgather most groups tend to move when they can and they rarely seem to hog the whole crag. It is a bad venue in cold westerlies. Yarncliffe is a poor suggestion for top ropes as the top is badly damaged and the easier routes are commonly both sandy and polished. Also Harbourough isnt really loose but it is a longer way to go.I find groups as much of a problem on the Roaches as Windgather but Skyline is much better.

WJV0912, Doghouse, and Offwidth,

Thank you all for you comments and your considered replies. I shall find out where your suggestions are and pay them a visit next week.

The first time I ever went climbing it was a beautiful day on stanage edge, and I feel a little sorry for folks these days who all seem to feel a need to begin indoors.

Regards,
Jon

In reply to Unclimbable:

I'd go for the Roaches rather than Hen Cloud. Everything at Hen Cloud is a sandbag.
I agree with your philosophy of introducing beginners to the outdoors first. If nothing else, it avoids all those "how do I make the transition to the outdoors" threads!

In reply to Unclimbable:

Back Forest has some nice routes and a better outlook, less polished/crowded than the Roaches.

In reply to Unclimbable:

There are quite a few suitable places at the Roaches.

In reply to DerwentDiluted:, pec, and marsbar.

Thanks all for your replies.

Derwent, where is Black Forest? Is it a crag?

Pec, I agree. There weren't many walls around when I started, and in the intervening years I have heard so frequently the 'need' to undergo a transition from indoors to outdoors. I don't know how it became a pedagogic norm, but its a shame to hear people nervous of the outdoors. I guess walls are simply more available, but not enough opportunities to quickly follow through to the outdoors?

Regards all,
Jon

In reply to DerwentDiluted:


Not really suitable for beginners/top-roping, since there are few easy belays at the top.

In reply to Unclimbable:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=897

It's a lovely little crag, with some short easyish routes (Rocking Stone Ridge etc) plus some slightly harder classics. Out of the wind, catches the sun, nice place for a picnic.

It's slightly sensitive for access but I'm sure you'll behave!

In reply to Coel Hellier:

I'm assuming the poster knows what he's doing but you're right in that it's not good for bottom roping. I've taken lots of children climbing there and always managed somehow!

In reply to Unclimbable:

Black forest is at the roaches

From the roaches cafe drive down the road past all the parking & crags (past houses, turn around point, through one gate...you think you have gone to far) then you hit a cattle grid park up carfully there & on your left (back to the road you have just come up) is a style over that follow the grassy road till you hit another over that then walk left ( you will see it now)& its on your right (approx 15 min walk).

although quite it can get cold at black forest & the routes are fairly uninspiring & short (6-10 Metre climbs).

In reply to Unclimbable:

If the weather is OK Windgather is much the best option.

In reply to Offwidth:

There is nothing you've mentioned there that I hadn't said in my post

In reply to WJV0912:
OK, really, so answer these:

Which are the loose routes at harbourough? Its probably the most solid limestone crag I know (strictly speaking its dolomitic limestone of course, so its cheating) and one of the few with good perfectly solid easier lines.

Why of all the wonderful crags in the eastern edges would you chose Yarncliffe which is the most worn on top-outs, again from problems with groups and top-ropes?


As an aside, those suggesting Back Forest should note its a bad idea to be top roping there as well as group use is against access arrangements and any top-roping might look like a group and attract unwanted attention.

Thanks all for the further feedback, and sorry if it started a bit of a tussle!

You're a very generous bunch and I am grateful for all your replies. I shall have a sit down and find them all on the map, though there are clearly a couple of favourites, and I'm very grateful for your taking into account the various aspects that make a first visit more appealing for someone just trying it out.

Thanks Dave, Slipknot for the directions/access notes, thats particularly useful for rolling up somewhere new.

Jon

In reply to Unclimbable:

This is UKC, tussles are never as bad as they might seem. Don't forget to report back on what you did, as it is interesting and useful for others in similar situations in the future.

In reply to Offwidth:

Good idea - will do.
Jon