/ VIDEO: The Weatherspell First Ascent - Awesome New Alpine Route in NZ

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Videos - on 05 Mar 2014
[The Weatherspell First Ascent - Awesome New Alpine Route in NZ]
You've got to admit it - Every climber dreams about going on an expedition to open up a new route and claim it as theirs.

That's how Alex Schweikhart, Christopher Igel, Claudia Kranabitter and Karl Schimanski ended up on the other side of the world in New Zealand. Their destination was a remote 300-metre granite wall located at the heart of the Darran Mountains, a wild range on the Southern Island with resemblance of Middle Earth.

Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=2037

The Pylon King on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to UKC Videos:

Awesome!!!
climbnplay on 05 Mar 2014
In reply to UKC Videos:

Out of curiosity, is the crux pitch protected by bolts (it seems so in the video) or by pitons? From the video I understood that they only used bolts for anchors.
jon on 06 Mar 2014
In reply to UKC Videos:

Great looking route. But 'alpine' is stretching it a bit, isn't it?
James Edwards - on 06 Mar 2014
In reply to jon:

Agreed, great looking line, but not really alpine. 'Big' wall perhaps. Also, it's only a long day hike in, which isn't remote at all by NZ standards.
It is great to see more NZ development in any case though, there is a lifetife of extreme and cutting edge summer and winter climbing to go at in the Darrans - e.g. Psychopath wall which is 45mins easy approach from a hut which is 5min fro the road.
If only i could get there and back in a weekend...
James
Al Walker - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to James Edwards:

Would be very pleased to pick you up from the airport James, we've done a lot of development in the past few years, but still much to do. Including our line!!

Al

Mike Nolan - on 01 May 2014
Kind of like a sport climbing with a bit of a walk in really.
Ged Desforges - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Mike Nolan:

I'm not sure it's fair to describe ground up bolting and cleaning a multi-pitch route with a fairly tortuous approach (I speak with first hand experience of New Zealand bushwacking) and unstable weather as "kind of like sport climbing with a bit of a walk in". Fair enough, it's not really alpine climbing. But pretty adventurous all the same.
Mike Nolan - on 01 May 2014
In reply to Ged Desforges:

I'm pretty sure the bolting was done on abseil from watching the video, and some of the climbing was worked on a Grigri, which is hardly ground up! This seems to me to remove the element of adventure for me.

Still a good effort either way in an amazing setting, well done to the climbers.
BruceM - on 02 May 2014
In reply to UKC Videos:

In NZ that style of climbing is called "Alpine" rock, to distinguish it from local cragging. It doesn't mean alpine conditions as per Europe.

How come the word sandfly wasn't mentioned once? I itch watching that.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.