In reply to Trangia:
"I wasn't there so it's unfair to judge, but I was a little alarmed to learn that people were prepared to even contemplate climbing on potentially saturated sandstone"
Why not go there yourself before questioning others actions. Its been sunny, dry and quite windy most the week and Bowles is a pretty fast drying crag so it was fairly obvious to me anyway that it would be worth the gamble going to have a look. Especially as others had reported 2 weeks ago that some climbs in bowles and stone farm were dry.
The face climbs at Bowles sunday were by far in the main in good condition especially to the left hand end of the crag (when facing in). The rock was high friction in the main and non sandy, its just not like that what its damp enough to risk breaking holds. There was a bit of dampness in the deeper horizontal breaks, and the crack and chimney climbs would not have been a good choice.
I didn't see or hear from anyone pulling off any rock all day. The only two times I've seen sandstone break in about 30 years climbing on it is when people have attempted routes where the outer rock looks damp and one of those times was the semi unconsolidated ridgy holds you get with rope grooves at the top of the crag breaking off.
I don't think the core of southern sandstone is often what holds it together anyway its the hard outer skin. In many parts of the crags once the core is exposed its like a sandpit!
Cheers,
Stevo
Post edited at 08:45