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Topic - Little to no improvement from endurance/sustain training

GrahamGiles on 06 Mar 2014
Long storey short, Iv been training for a trip to kalymnos in April for the last 2.5 weeks (of which I have to use bouldering facilities as I cant often get a parter for lead) and find that I still find it very difficult to recover on steep ground (very impotent for Kalymnos) and also I struggle to keep composure when Im pumped (even more important for kalymnos!).

Im wondering If anyone has any advice or tips for training these two?

Some info if your interested:

-I train every other day unless achy or exhausted.
-3 hour sessions on week days, 4-5 hours on weekends.
-Naturally a boulderer so I have good strength and horrendous endurance/stamina. (Consistently get V6's and most V7s after some working while I struggle to get 7a's at the best of times unless the route is 10-15 meters)
-I have been training using 4 main methods:
1. 4x4's (4 boulder problems, 2 mins rest, repeat 3 more times and aim to fail on the 4th problem of the 4th set)
2. Aerobic climbing (100 move traverses making sure I dont have to shake out every 5 moves or less
3. Rock rings sustain training (found here: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_rock_ring.html )
4. Long roof boulder problem link ups (typically 25 move powerful V5 with 1 no hands rest half way, followed by 25 move V3 which has lots of rests(generally leaves me panting and pumped out of my mind!)

Also if it helps, I plan on climbing: 'Ivi' 7b, 'Harlem Nights' 7b+ and potentially 'Aegialis' 7c, if im feeling strong enough(it is a 2 week holiday after all!).

Has anyone got any advice/tips to get the most out of my training, should I be more patient? try 2 days on one day off? do some running/cycling/rowing on rest days? Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks
Giles
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