This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Having recently walked under the forbidden walls at Wintours and boggled at the potential there if only intransigent owners could be persuaded that climbers aren't all baby eating bastards from Bath, are there any other crags of that potential quality that are also banned?
The Wye valley is full of banned rock!
The Wye valley is full of banned rock!
In reply to pasbury:
In Lancashire: Houghton quarry, there is an access agreement but you are lucky if anything is dry when it's open.
In Lancashire: Houghton quarry, there is an access agreement but you are lucky if anything is dry when it's open.
In reply to butteredfrog:
Den Lane, Main Wall.
A brilliant nursery for local climbers in the 60's.
When you'd worked your way through to Y Route you could then move on to the Rake Wall, a much less friendly proposition.
Den Lane, Main Wall.
A brilliant nursery for local climbers in the 60's.
When you'd worked your way through to Y Route you could then move on to the Rake Wall, a much less friendly proposition.
In reply to pasbury:
All worthy crags but have you actually seen the forbidden walls? They are massive and heavily featured natural limestone - like fly wall * 10.
All worthy crags but have you actually seen the forbidden walls? They are massive and heavily featured natural limestone - like fly wall * 10.
In reply to butteredfrog:
yeah had a wee venture down there 2 years ago and the forest was full of the echos of shooting as if climbing wasn't dangerous enough on the mouldy rock we bugged out pretty sharpish!
yeah had a wee venture down there 2 years ago and the forest was full of the echos of shooting as if climbing wasn't dangerous enough on the mouldy rock we bugged out pretty sharpish!
In reply to pasbury:
Craig Forwyn, sad thing is this is open to locals who know the landowner but the BMC have never been successful in getting it open generally, though it did used to be. Some great routes there, all trad as I remember.
Craig Forwyn, sad thing is this is open to locals who know the landowner but the BMC have never been successful in getting it open generally, though it did used to be. Some great routes there, all trad as I remember.
In reply to Al Evans:
As far as I'm aware (from conversation with one such 'local'), this isn't really the case. It's true that some people have had limited access in recent years, but only after extensive negotiation and long phone calls to the landowner, trying to convince him to permit access (for all climbers, on the condition that they are quiet and behave respectfully). However once this became known to the wider public, IIRC all it took was one or two groups of climbers, unknown to the landowner and behaving loudly (though not necessarily rudely), and the whole situation fell apart again.
> sad thing is this is open to locals who know the landowner
As far as I'm aware (from conversation with one such 'local'), this isn't really the case. It's true that some people have had limited access in recent years, but only after extensive negotiation and long phone calls to the landowner, trying to convince him to permit access (for all climbers, on the condition that they are quiet and behave respectfully). However once this became known to the wider public, IIRC all it took was one or two groups of climbers, unknown to the landowner and behaving loudly (though not necessarily rudely), and the whole situation fell apart again.
In reply to pasbury:
Have to agree with Craig y Forwyn and Vixen Tor. Really fine crags that I miss.
Locally, Sharpcliffe is walkable from where I live but as a local I have to behave myself!
Have to agree with Craig y Forwyn and Vixen Tor. Really fine crags that I miss.
Locally, Sharpcliffe is walkable from where I live but as a local I have to behave myself!
In reply to stroppygob:
Dave Turnbull for the BMC, together with Frank Cannings and myself were witnesses at the second Vixen Tor public inquiry to past free access to the tor by climbers. In fact the proposal by the RA and Devon CC to reopen two footpaths through the enclosure, even if successful, would not have gained access to the tor itself as both RoWs would not have included the rocks. As climbers we would have been even further away from gaining access if the appeal had succeeded.
This is by no means the end of the story. All I can say at this stage is that alternative solutions are being considered, but by necessity these are taking place beneath the radar of publicity! It may take a year or two but I feel reasonably confident that climbers and the general public will eventually enjoy open access to the whole of the VT enclosure, including the rocks.
Whilst Vixen Tor by itself may not be the most important crag in Britain, a successful conclusion to this long-standing problem will have profound and positive implications for many other currently "closed" crags on so-called private land.
Dave Turnbull for the BMC, together with Frank Cannings and myself were witnesses at the second Vixen Tor public inquiry to past free access to the tor by climbers. In fact the proposal by the RA and Devon CC to reopen two footpaths through the enclosure, even if successful, would not have gained access to the tor itself as both RoWs would not have included the rocks. As climbers we would have been even further away from gaining access if the appeal had succeeded.
This is by no means the end of the story. All I can say at this stage is that alternative solutions are being considered, but by necessity these are taking place beneath the radar of publicity! It may take a year or two but I feel reasonably confident that climbers and the general public will eventually enjoy open access to the whole of the VT enclosure, including the rocks.
Whilst Vixen Tor by itself may not be the most important crag in Britain, a successful conclusion to this long-standing problem will have profound and positive implications for many other currently "closed" crags on so-called private land.
In reply to pasbury:
Limekilns used to be really good when it was still banned, no polish, no crowds, no people, few loose blocks!
jd
Limekilns used to be really good when it was still banned, no polish, no crowds, no people, few loose blocks!
jd
In reply to Iain Peters:
What you're hinting at regarding the deplorable present situation is very encouraging. I partic like the wording of the second half of your last sentence.
> Whilst Vixen Tor by itself may not be the most important crag in Britain, a successful conclusion to this long-standing problem will have profound and positive implications for many other currently "closed" crags on so-called private land.
What you're hinting at regarding the deplorable present situation is very encouraging. I partic like the wording of the second half of your last sentence.
In reply to el diablo:
whats wrong with the Poles?
> Limekilns used to be really good when it was still banned, no polish
whats wrong with the Poles?
In reply to pasbury:
Range west must be the biggest closed crag in the country, where good negotiations have enabled access at limited times if you can jump through the hoop of attending one of the briefing days.
Range west must be the biggest closed crag in the country, where good negotiations have enabled access at limited times if you can jump through the hoop of attending one of the briefing days.
In reply to pasbury:
Of crags I've climbed on which are now banned, I'd say Craig y Forwen was the biggest loss although the few routes I did at Goats buttress (Northumberland) were good
Of crags I've climbed on which are now banned, I'd say Craig y Forwen was the biggest loss although the few routes I did at Goats buttress (Northumberland) were good
In reply to duchessofmalfi:
+1 for Eastwood rocks, some of the best bouldering and one of the best traverses around
+1 for Eastwood rocks, some of the best bouldering and one of the best traverses around
In reply to pasbury:
Whats the huge roof/cave in the peak called? Dave Mcleod got permission for one of his videos. Has an old settlement (iron age?) inside it and is a museum.
Whats the huge roof/cave in the peak called? Dave Mcleod got permission for one of his videos. Has an old settlement (iron age?) inside it and is a museum.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Gordon; whilst I believe that public inquiries, mass petitions or even, as in The Peak all those years ago, mass trespass can result in favourable outcomes and represent democracy in action, there are some issues, and VT is one, where a degree of lateral thinking and a good deal of behind the scenes research and negotiation can bring results.
Having lived and worked on Dartmoor for much of my life I do know something of the culture and attitudes of the local farming community or commoners: I am one myself. As a walker and climber I see the wide open spaces as mine to explore and enjoy by right, an essential escape from the stresses and strains of life. As an upland farmer struggling with faceless bureaucracy, political machinations and wildly fluctuating markets the loss of control over 25 acres of rough grazing such as Vixen Tor can appear to be just the thin end of the wedge.
We (the Commoners) are a stubborn lot and essentially conservative towards change, wary of incomers, city dwellers, grockles and above all National Park Authorities and Planners. Building bridges between these two conflicting worlds is sometimes best left not to official public inquiries, trespass or political interference, but to a couple of individuals sharing a pint or a conversation in a pub, which results in a relationship developing that leads to more understanding of the nature of the conflict.
I remain optimistic!
> What you're hinting at regarding the deplorable present situation is very encouraging. I partic like the wording of the second half of your last sentence.
Gordon; whilst I believe that public inquiries, mass petitions or even, as in The Peak all those years ago, mass trespass can result in favourable outcomes and represent democracy in action, there are some issues, and VT is one, where a degree of lateral thinking and a good deal of behind the scenes research and negotiation can bring results.
Having lived and worked on Dartmoor for much of my life I do know something of the culture and attitudes of the local farming community or commoners: I am one myself. As a walker and climber I see the wide open spaces as mine to explore and enjoy by right, an essential escape from the stresses and strains of life. As an upland farmer struggling with faceless bureaucracy, political machinations and wildly fluctuating markets the loss of control over 25 acres of rough grazing such as Vixen Tor can appear to be just the thin end of the wedge.
We (the Commoners) are a stubborn lot and essentially conservative towards change, wary of incomers, city dwellers, grockles and above all National Park Authorities and Planners. Building bridges between these two conflicting worlds is sometimes best left not to official public inquiries, trespass or political interference, but to a couple of individuals sharing a pint or a conversation in a pub, which results in a relationship developing that leads to more understanding of the nature of the conflict.
I remain optimistic!
In reply to Iain Peters:
You're an inspiration! Maybe I need to be a bit more positive about Sharpcliffe and have another go at working my local contacts. It might be a long game but it's worth a try.
You're an inspiration! Maybe I need to be a bit more positive about Sharpcliffe and have another go at working my local contacts. It might be a long game but it's worth a try.
In reply to Iain Peters:
Iain - Thanks for all your hard work regarding Vixen Tor, both in the previous enquiry and 'below the radar'. I hope we see a successful conclusion in favour of access. For the past 7 years I have lived within a few miles of Vixen Tor but never been climbing there, it would be great to change that.
Phil
Iain - Thanks for all your hard work regarding Vixen Tor, both in the previous enquiry and 'below the radar'. I hope we see a successful conclusion in favour of access. For the past 7 years I have lived within a few miles of Vixen Tor but never been climbing there, it would be great to change that.
Phil
In reply to Ron Kenyon:
White Scar was an interesting problem, one of which was how to get to the foot of the routes, the via ferrata (roped) traverse along the foot was clearly not viable. Les Ainsworth had this great plan to get the local fire brigades pour high pressure hoses onto the vertical scree and detritus at the foot of the crag to make a superb 3-400ft crag, but it never came off.
While I mention the S Lakes area another 'lost' crag was Chapel Head Scar lower left crag, a great trad venue.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=232610
> Lazonby - in the Eden Valley
> White Scar - in the South Lakes
White Scar was an interesting problem, one of which was how to get to the foot of the routes, the via ferrata (roped) traverse along the foot was clearly not viable. Les Ainsworth had this great plan to get the local fire brigades pour high pressure hoses onto the vertical scree and detritus at the foot of the crag to make a superb 3-400ft crag, but it never came off.
While I mention the S Lakes area another 'lost' crag was Chapel Head Scar lower left crag, a great trad venue.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=232610
In reply to Iain Peters:
As usual a sensible reply from you Iain, rather than my gut reaction as a militant socialist (not, never a communist) which would be a mass trespass
As usual a sensible reply from you Iain, rather than my gut reaction as a militant socialist (not, never a communist) which would be a mass trespass
In reply to Alun:
Craig Y Forwen
A great loss, I recall it being a brilliant crag.
Last climbed there in 1980ish
Craig Y Forwen
A great loss, I recall it being a brilliant crag.
Last climbed there in 1980ish
Post edited at 13:11
In reply to Al Evans:
I'm with you Al on the socialism bit: unfortunately I live in the middle of solid UKIP country! Dealing with that has been a steep learning curve, not least when it comes to issues such as Vixen Tor. I would never discount people power including mass trespass, but in this case we are dealing with individuals and groups with a profound and often justified mistrust of anything associated with government or "they furrin buggers", BMC, included! . The shining example of this has been the total mishandling of the badger cull, which has alienated all those involved, whatever their views.
I'm confident that VT can be resolved almost on a one to one basis, but if not I do have a few extra bullets put to one side...!
As for White Scar, I did climb the classic E3 there, name's slipped my mind, back in the day, but we abbed in from the top early one morning (ND&C tactics!) outside the nesting period for the resident peregrines. A great crag and full of potential.
I'm with you Al on the socialism bit: unfortunately I live in the middle of solid UKIP country! Dealing with that has been a steep learning curve, not least when it comes to issues such as Vixen Tor. I would never discount people power including mass trespass, but in this case we are dealing with individuals and groups with a profound and often justified mistrust of anything associated with government or "they furrin buggers", BMC, included! . The shining example of this has been the total mishandling of the badger cull, which has alienated all those involved, whatever their views.
I'm confident that VT can be resolved almost on a one to one basis, but if not I do have a few extra bullets put to one side...!
As for White Scar, I did climb the classic E3 there, name's slipped my mind, back in the day, but we abbed in from the top early one morning (ND&C tactics!) outside the nesting period for the resident peregrines. A great crag and full of potential.
In reply to pasbury:
Pant Quarry, near Bridgend, one of the highest, steepest walls around....Quarry is being worked again, so no access....
Pant Quarry, near Bridgend, one of the highest, steepest walls around....Quarry is being worked again, so no access....
In reply to pasbury:
Also remember doing a tough little route on the upper, weathered section of the working quarry below Farleton very early one Sunday morning. Very similar in style to the top section of Assegai at Trowbarrow, but soon blown up!
Also remember doing a tough little route on the upper, weathered section of the working quarry below Farleton very early one Sunday morning. Very similar in style to the top section of Assegai at Trowbarrow, but soon blown up!
In reply to deepstar:
Looks like it could be quite good
http://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/82/74/1827432_975e23b0.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_WYzdPqqLER8/TOPqQLdMfUI/AAAAAAAAB2E/J0CY4NfhVlk/s...
> Ebbor Gorge, Somerset.
Looks like it could be quite good
http://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/82/74/1827432_975e23b0.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_WYzdPqqLER8/TOPqQLdMfUI/AAAAAAAAB2E/J0CY4NfhVlk/s...
In reply to Arms Cliff:
Actually thats quite a good call there is a number of islands that would likely pretty good if it wasn't for the bans and the birds.
Actually thats quite a good call there is a number of islands that would likely pretty good if it wasn't for the bans and the birds.
Post edited at 15:12
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Has there been a clamp down? You used to get away with as long as you didn't make a song and dance.
Anyone mentioned Staden yet? Are people climbing there again? Is a bottle plant imminent / already built?
> +1 for Eastwood rocks, some of the best bouldering and one of the best traverses around
Has there been a clamp down? You used to get away with as long as you didn't make a song and dance.
Anyone mentioned Staden yet? Are people climbing there again? Is a bottle plant imminent / already built?
In reply to HappyTrundler:
Yes Pant Quarry was brilliant, got a few visits (illegal) in there before it was shut down (or opened up again). . There was a great article about it in one of the climbing magazines.
Iain Peters, you probably mean The Prometheus Crisis or Book of Invasions, only one of which I did (can't remember which one) but both were equally good and both accessed by abseil.I'm puzzled by your account of a quarry at Farleton, I only remember Farleton Quarry which me , Dave Parker and Bill Lounds did a few routes in, it was not a working quarry and I thought it was still open to climbers?
> Pant Quarry, near Bridgend, one of the highest, steepest walls around....Quarry is being worked again, so no access....
Yes Pant Quarry was brilliant, got a few visits (illegal) in there before it was shut down (or opened up again). . There was a great article about it in one of the climbing magazines.
Iain Peters, you probably mean The Prometheus Crisis or Book of Invasions, only one of which I did (can't remember which one) but both were equally good and both accessed by abseil.I'm puzzled by your account of a quarry at Farleton, I only remember Farleton Quarry which me , Dave Parker and Bill Lounds did a few routes in, it was not a working quarry and I thought it was still open to climbers?
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I know,I have done most of the routes there on a smaller crag higher up the gorge but the bit in your photos has never been "officially" climbed to my knowledge although there has been local rumours.
I know,I have done most of the routes there on a smaller crag higher up the gorge but the bit in your photos has never been "officially" climbed to my knowledge although there has been local rumours.
In reply to pasbury:
If you stroll around Berdorf in Luxembourg, you quickly realise the amount of rock you're not allowed to climb on is at least 5 times bigger than the bit that is allowed
Some of the banned bits even have old routes on
If you stroll around Berdorf in Luxembourg, you quickly realise the amount of rock you're not allowed to climb on is at least 5 times bigger than the bit that is allowed
Some of the banned bits even have old routes on
In reply to Al Evans:
Al; may have got the name wrong, but it's the working one just off the main road between Burton and the A65 just before the farm entrance where you park for the main crags. It has always been a working quarry as far as I'm aware because when we were living in the village in the late 80s/90s there was a campaign to build a slip road onto the M6 for the quarry as the heavy trucks were damaging the listed houses along the route - mine included!
Al; may have got the name wrong, but it's the working one just off the main road between Burton and the A65 just before the farm entrance where you park for the main crags. It has always been a working quarry as far as I'm aware because when we were living in the village in the late 80s/90s there was a campaign to build a slip road onto the M6 for the quarry as the heavy trucks were damaging the listed houses along the route - mine included!
In reply to Iain Peters:
Called Holme Park Quarry: http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?X=353620&Y=478960&A=Y&Z=120
Called Holme Park Quarry: http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?X=353620&Y=478960&A=Y&Z=120
In reply to robert-hutton:
When I first went to Buoux you could still climb on the crag above the road, i.e. not the main one with Pepsicomaine etc on it.
> When at Boux there was allways more rock off limits then available.
When I first went to Buoux you could still climb on the crag above the road, i.e. not the main one with Pepsicomaine etc on it.
There's another 'Pant Quarry' in my village (next to Llanymynech). I cleaned it about 20 yrs ago, and so far only myself, Nick Dixon, Crispin Waddy, Johnny Dawes, Paul Pritchard and Steve Sustad have climbed on it.
They did all the problems I couldn't, and thought up (and did) waaaay harder ones.
They did all the problems I couldn't, and thought up (and did) waaaay harder ones.
In reply to Bob:
Me too: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=131878
> When I first went to Buoux you could still climb on the crag above the road, i.e. not the main one with Pepsicomaine etc on it.
Me too: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=131878
In reply to jon:
I remember climbing there, if you mean the crag above the massive "Postman's" boulder. Another major "forbidden" crag has to be the Bass Rock, though climbing through the guano would be a major challenge!
I remember climbing there, if you mean the crag above the massive "Postman's" boulder. Another major "forbidden" crag has to be the Bass Rock, though climbing through the guano would be a major challenge!
In reply to Iain Peters:
That's the one. The photo of Chris is on a route at the left end of the crag - the other end from the bloc du facteur! Shame, some great Buouxesque routes!
There are a few other crags in the Buoux valley itself that are banned. Then further down the road is the magnificent crag of Lourmarin, also banned.
That's the one. The photo of Chris is on a route at the left end of the crag - the other end from the bloc du facteur! Shame, some great Buouxesque routes!
There are a few other crags in the Buoux valley itself that are banned. Then further down the road is the magnificent crag of Lourmarin, also banned.
Post edited at 16:45
In reply to FactorXXX:
Climbs have been done there in the past, but climbing is no longer permitted.
Climbs have been done there in the past, but climbing is no longer permitted.
In reply to pasbury:
There are a number of potentially interesting looking forbidden Sandstone crags in the rock starved South East:-
Penns Rocks
Chiddinglye Wood Rocks
in particular
There are a number of potentially interesting looking forbidden Sandstone crags in the rock starved South East:-
Penns Rocks
Chiddinglye Wood Rocks
in particular
In reply to pasbury:
I've heard that Calvia on Majorca is now banned.
Can anyone confirm or otherwise? It's quite a few years since I climbed there.
I've heard that Calvia on Majorca is now banned.
Can anyone confirm or otherwise? It's quite a few years since I climbed there.
In reply to John2:
Climbs have been done there in the past, but climbing is no longer permitted.
Bloody Monks!!!
Did have details of the climbs somewhere, but can't find them now.
Maybe in an old, old, old guidebook?
Climbs have been done there in the past, but climbing is no longer permitted.
Bloody Monks!!!
Did have details of the climbs somewhere, but can't find them now.
Maybe in an old, old, old guidebook?
In reply to Choss:
That dive Centre place Near chepstow.
There is another dive centre north of Bristol that might have some climbable rock...
That dive Centre place Near chepstow.
There is another dive centre north of Bristol that might have some climbable rock...
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I'm walking distance from Sharpcliffe too, but I'd have to nominate Staden Quarry...unless it's open again?
I'm walking distance from Sharpcliffe too, but I'd have to nominate Staden Quarry...unless it's open again?
In reply to FactorXXX:
wheres that to?
> That dive Centre place Near chepstow.
> There is another dive centre north of Bristol that might have some climbable rock...
wheres that to?
In reply to ChrisMurray:
You're right, Staden is more of a loss, but Sharpclife is closer!
When you say walking distance, how far? There aren't so many places to live within walking distance of Sharpcliffe!
You're right, Staden is more of a loss, but Sharpclife is closer!
When you say walking distance, how far? There aren't so many places to live within walking distance of Sharpcliffe!
In reply to pasbury:
Another vote for lazonby, Eden valley.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=158781
One day maybe
Another vote for lazonby, Eden valley.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=158781
One day maybe
In reply to Iain Peters:
Another quarry in that area is Jackdaw Quarry, AKA Capernwray Dive Centre. I don't have the Lancs Brick with me, but IIRC some stuff is accessible and some is banned. No idea if much of it is any good, but surely DWS potential if you don't mind getting a bit cold and/or landing on a SCUBA diver.
Another quarry in that area is Jackdaw Quarry, AKA Capernwray Dive Centre. I don't have the Lancs Brick with me, but IIRC some stuff is accessible and some is banned. No idea if much of it is any good, but surely DWS potential if you don't mind getting a bit cold and/or landing on a SCUBA diver.
In reply to stewieatb:
I don't recall any eyecatching lines but I can confirm the temperature of the water.
> (In reply to Iain Peters)
>
> No idea if much of it is any good, but surely DWS potential if you don't mind getting a bit cold and/or landing on a SCUBA diver.
>
> No idea if much of it is any good, but surely DWS potential if you don't mind getting a bit cold and/or landing on a SCUBA diver.
I don't recall any eyecatching lines but I can confirm the temperature of the water.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
We did a couple of routes up a pillar at the Carnforth end of the quarry, but I think they'd been climbed before. Thought about DWS, but apparently the quarry's full of abandoned cars, so resisted the temptation.
> I don't recall any eyecatching lines but I can confirm the temperature of the water.
We did a couple of routes up a pillar at the Carnforth end of the quarry, but I think they'd been climbed before. Thought about DWS, but apparently the quarry's full of abandoned cars, so resisted the temptation.
In reply to Trangia:
There is a great little crag near Crowborough Station that had just a mention in 'other' crags in the old CC sandstone guide. I paid it a couple of visits and dug it out of the jungle, there was a brilliant central crack which I found two routes up, one as an offwidth and one as a layback, both in the E grades. There was a great unclimbed wall to the left of the crack which I was sure would go on a top rope.
Spent some time clearing the top rope area, but then I moved away and never did it. I wish I had the guide I'd like to know if anybody else ever went there?
There is a great little crag near Crowborough Station that had just a mention in 'other' crags in the old CC sandstone guide. I paid it a couple of visits and dug it out of the jungle, there was a brilliant central crack which I found two routes up, one as an offwidth and one as a layback, both in the E grades. There was a great unclimbed wall to the left of the crack which I was sure would go on a top rope.
Spent some time clearing the top rope area, but then I moved away and never did it. I wish I had the guide I'd like to know if anybody else ever went there?
In reply to pasbury:
Another forbidden crag I have come to remember is Roche Abbey, which The Parnassus Club published a Lenny Millsom guide to in the 60's
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207050
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207051
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207052
There was some correspondence with Dangerous Dave and a more up to date guide, but I think it has now again sunk into the banned crags category.
Another forbidden crag I have come to remember is Roche Abbey, which The Parnassus Club published a Lenny Millsom guide to in the 60's
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207050
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207051
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207052
There was some correspondence with Dangerous Dave and a more up to date guide, but I think it has now again sunk into the banned crags category.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I would also nominate Healy Castle near Keele. Sandstone and not the best of venues if you like topping out but it has/had some excellent long traverses (even featured a pic of Gary Gibson doing one in the old Staffs guide). Last time I made a low profile visit the brambles and nettles had pretty much taken over. But a few years ago it was my main midweek venue.
Rock End Biddulph way would be another cracking venue
I would also nominate Healy Castle near Keele. Sandstone and not the best of venues if you like topping out but it has/had some excellent long traverses (even featured a pic of Gary Gibson doing one in the old Staffs guide). Last time I made a low profile visit the brambles and nettles had pretty much taken over. But a few years ago it was my main midweek venue.
Rock End Biddulph way would be another cracking venue
In reply to pasbury:
http://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/
and
http://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/holyrood-park-and-arthurs-seat-p91...
Although rock on the castle looks a bit brittle.
http://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/
and
http://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/holyrood-park-and-arthurs-seat-p91...
Although rock on the castle looks a bit brittle.
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
Anyone here ever climb in Rubislaw quarry (Aberdeen)? Already banned by the time I moved to Aberdeen in the early 1980s but I know some routes were done by Greg Strange & others.
Similarly there are recorded routes on the crag below the Wallace monument just outside Stirling but climbing had been banned by the time I went to the nearby university in 1978
A loss to Scottish climbing ?
Anyone here ever climb in Rubislaw quarry (Aberdeen)? Already banned by the time I moved to Aberdeen in the early 1980s but I know some routes were done by Greg Strange & others.
Similarly there are recorded routes on the crag below the Wallace monument just outside Stirling but climbing had been banned by the time I went to the nearby university in 1978
A loss to Scottish climbing ?
In reply to pasbury:
Churchill Rocks, Somerset is a great crag it has two parts,a massive slab with some easy climbs that would be ideal for instruction if climbing were allowed and the Southern Outcrop, steep walls with some desperate routes on it.
Churchill Rocks, Somerset is a great crag it has two parts,a massive slab with some easy climbs that would be ideal for instruction if climbing were allowed and the Southern Outcrop, steep walls with some desperate routes on it.
In reply to Iain Peters:
'Jackdaw Quarry' is now the Capernwray Diving Centre http://dive-site.co.uk/?page_id=29 As you can see, you might land on something a bit more exotic than an old car? It is extremely unlikely that climbing would be tolerated there.
As others have noted above, the Eden Valley is a hot spot for 'forbidden crags' - as well as the mighty Lazonby there is also Helbeck Wood and The Hoff where access has been lost. Parts of Windmore End are also banned and Scratchmere Scar was closed off for a while.
'Jackdaw Quarry' is now the Capernwray Diving Centre http://dive-site.co.uk/?page_id=29 As you can see, you might land on something a bit more exotic than an old car? It is extremely unlikely that climbing would be tolerated there.
As others have noted above, the Eden Valley is a hot spot for 'forbidden crags' - as well as the mighty Lazonby there is also Helbeck Wood and The Hoff where access has been lost. Parts of Windmore End are also banned and Scratchmere Scar was closed off for a while.
In reply to pasbury:
Let's not forget the Old Man of Mow
http://www.mowcop.info/htm/industry/oldman.htm
banned more on grounds of stability than anything else
Let's not forget the Old Man of Mow
http://www.mowcop.info/htm/industry/oldman.htm
banned more on grounds of stability than anything else
In reply to pasbury:
No-one's mentioned Beeston Castle in Cheshire, potentially a major sandstone outcrop. Colin Kirkus and others climbed there in the thirties. To quote Alan Rouse from his 1976 Cheshire guide - 'some of the most spectacular sandstone routes in the country could be engineered between the impressive walls and overhangs below the castle itself'.
No-one's mentioned Beeston Castle in Cheshire, potentially a major sandstone outcrop. Colin Kirkus and others climbed there in the thirties. To quote Alan Rouse from his 1976 Cheshire guide - 'some of the most spectacular sandstone routes in the country could be engineered between the impressive walls and overhangs below the castle itself'.
In reply to pasbury:
This thread is interesting, apart from the general crag talk, in the contrast it highlights between Scotland and the rest of the Uk's land access laws. Aside from the notable Limekilns, pretty much all the Scottish ones are military (Edinburgh Castle) or industrial (Rubislaw) sites yet there seem to be squillions of crags off limits in England and Wales.
There were issues years ago with Glenmarkskie though I believe that provided a low profile was kept no-one minded too much. I did here an amusing story from Mike Birch that he and (Lord) John MacKenzie were apprehended by the police there, and when the full name of "Viscount, Lord, etc" was read out the cops looked awkwardly at each other and let them go without a word.
This thread is interesting, apart from the general crag talk, in the contrast it highlights between Scotland and the rest of the Uk's land access laws. Aside from the notable Limekilns, pretty much all the Scottish ones are military (Edinburgh Castle) or industrial (Rubislaw) sites yet there seem to be squillions of crags off limits in England and Wales.
There were issues years ago with Glenmarkskie though I believe that provided a low profile was kept no-one minded too much. I did here an amusing story from Mike Birch that he and (Lord) John MacKenzie were apprehended by the police there, and when the full name of "Viscount, Lord, etc" was read out the cops looked awkwardly at each other and let them go without a word.
In reply to pasbury:
Interesting point following on from my post about Beeston Castle. We are supposed to live in a democracy. Should Councils and Government departments just decide to ban climbing without consulting all interested parties? I can see why climbing might be banned in some cases. Eg falling rocks as on parts of the Great Orme. Or noise as an Craig y Forwen (Though I have recently climbed there by abseiling from above and keeping a low profile.) Or vandalism/litter. Or when a crag is in someone's back garden. But do we have to always allow for the anti-social behaviour of clumsy, noisy yobbos?
Interesting point following on from my post about Beeston Castle. We are supposed to live in a democracy. Should Councils and Government departments just decide to ban climbing without consulting all interested parties? I can see why climbing might be banned in some cases. Eg falling rocks as on parts of the Great Orme. Or noise as an Craig y Forwen (Though I have recently climbed there by abseiling from above and keeping a low profile.) Or vandalism/litter. Or when a crag is in someone's back garden. But do we have to always allow for the anti-social behaviour of clumsy, noisy yobbos?
Drifting a bit ('cos Stanner is no Craig y Forwyn), but there is a good sized lump of gabbro in Radnorshire
http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1881250
Gabbro and its associated chemistry is a bit unusual here, so Plantus deadrarus is established on the rock, hence the ban. Its not like that crag mentioned above in Northumberland where even the tiny bit of CRoW land nearby is covered with goml signs.
Post edited at 11:18
In reply to Removed User:
yep my understanding is that bits of Scotland you can't climb have usually tended to be quarries rather than natural rock. Certainly Glenmarksie seems to be fine now. The way things should be!
yep my understanding is that bits of Scotland you can't climb have usually tended to be quarries rather than natural rock. Certainly Glenmarksie seems to be fine now. The way things should be!
In reply to pasbury:
Ramsey Island, off St David's Head. It featured in Colin Mortlock's late 60s guidebook. After climbing was banned by the RSPB, the descriptions were reprinted in three CC guides 'in case circumstances change' but omitted from the recent Pembroke North guide, in which the ban is described as 'permanent'. I've never heard of anyone other than Mortlock's party climbing there.It had some long routes, but I've no idea how good they were/are.
Certainly not a candidate for the best forbidden crag is Hooe Lake Quarry near Plymouth, but I was born in a room which looks out onto it!
Ramsey Island, off St David's Head. It featured in Colin Mortlock's late 60s guidebook. After climbing was banned by the RSPB, the descriptions were reprinted in three CC guides 'in case circumstances change' but omitted from the recent Pembroke North guide, in which the ban is described as 'permanent'. I've never heard of anyone other than Mortlock's party climbing there.It had some long routes, but I've no idea how good they were/are.
Certainly not a candidate for the best forbidden crag is Hooe Lake Quarry near Plymouth, but I was born in a room which looks out onto it!
In reply to Bob Moulton:
In the same vein Bob, Ausewell Rocks above the Dart Valley, where we climbed in the 70s and Canonteign where Pete Biven & Co put up a few routes in the 60s.
There's also a stretch of sizeable crags between Mullion and Predannack Head on The Lizard which is a nature reserve and SSSI.
Porthmoina Island is another.
In the same vein Bob, Ausewell Rocks above the Dart Valley, where we climbed in the 70s and Canonteign where Pete Biven & Co put up a few routes in the 60s.
There's also a stretch of sizeable crags between Mullion and Predannack Head on The Lizard which is a nature reserve and SSSI.
Porthmoina Island is another.
In reply to The Pylon King: I've done the Seven Sisters routes that appeared in a reprint of an old 1965 guide. They weren't up to much (apart from the obvious allure of the Upstream Pinnacle), considering how impressive the crags look. Is there anything worthwhile there?
In reply to Removed User:
Glenmarksie really deserves a low profile. Calisto was the only route worth the effort. And it's one of the most tick infested places I've been.
> There were issues years ago with Glenmarkskie though I believe that provided a low profile was kept no-one minded too much.
Glenmarksie really deserves a low profile. Calisto was the only route worth the effort. And it's one of the most tick infested places I've been.
In reply to alan moore:
100 routes put up in the 70s many of which are supposed to be pretty good. Very overgrown now.
100 routes put up in the 70s many of which are supposed to be pretty good. Very overgrown now.
In reply to aln:
Plenty good routes at Glenmarksie! What else did you do there?
And yes definitely a place to go in spring before the bracken gets too bad.
Plenty good routes at Glenmarksie! What else did you do there?
And yes definitely a place to go in spring before the bracken gets too bad.
In reply to pasbury:
There used to be some inner city climbing in Plymouth, in disused quarries, which I believe is now banned.
There used to be some inner city climbing in Plymouth, in disused quarries, which I believe is now banned.
Post edited at 22:20
In reply to Iain Peters:
Talking of islands - St Kilda? Not sure climbing is permitted there. The cliffs are massive. Here is a shot of Conachair - a lot of grass but it's over 400m high so the main cliff must be about half that.
http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/jamesstringer/7708369936/
Talking of islands - St Kilda? Not sure climbing is permitted there. The cliffs are massive. Here is a shot of Conachair - a lot of grass but it's over 400m high so the main cliff must be about half that.
http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/jamesstringer/7708369936/
In reply to Misha:
Pete Whillance led a team of climbers up to St Kilda and they did at least one big route, about E3 as I recall. There was a TV documentary about it.
It is mentioned, (with a photograph) in Jim Currans book 'Suspended Sentences'
Pete Whillance led a team of climbers up to St Kilda and they did at least one big route, about E3 as I recall. There was a TV documentary about it.
It is mentioned, (with a photograph) in Jim Currans book 'Suspended Sentences'
Post edited at 07:55
In reply to Ron Kenyon:
Lazonby has definitely got to be there - for location as well as quality of climbing.
However I can think of quite a few crags along the UAE /Oman border where access is now forbidden -- particularly in the upper reaches of Wadi Bih. They range from single and two pitch crags where you can literally belay from the back bumper of your vehicle, to crags in secluded gorges that reach up to over 1000 ft high. Hundreds of routes are now out of bounds.
Lazonby has definitely got to be there - for location as well as quality of climbing.
However I can think of quite a few crags along the UAE /Oman border where access is now forbidden -- particularly in the upper reaches of Wadi Bih. They range from single and two pitch crags where you can literally belay from the back bumper of your vehicle, to crags in secluded gorges that reach up to over 1000 ft high. Hundreds of routes are now out of bounds.
In reply to Misha:
The last pitch I ever climbed was on St Kilda (chossy diff to get on to Boreray by a funny route). There have been numerous attempts to get at the stacks over the past few years, always beaten by landing conditions. Climbing is allowed in Winter only - its just a bird ban. Now Winter and St Kilda are not easy bedfellows.
The last pitch I ever climbed was on St Kilda (chossy diff to get on to Boreray by a funny route). There have been numerous attempts to get at the stacks over the past few years, always beaten by landing conditions. Climbing is allowed in Winter only - its just a bird ban. Now Winter and St Kilda are not easy bedfellows.
In reply to Fat Bumbly2:
MacLeod/Emmett put up an E6 on Hirta in June 2010. No problems with birds on that cliff it seems. I do wonder though if only day trips are permitted? They seemed to be on a pretty tight schedule...
MacLeod/Emmett put up an E6 on Hirta in June 2010. No problems with birds on that cliff it seems. I do wonder though if only day trips are permitted? They seemed to be on a pretty tight schedule...
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I spent over a week on Lewis waiting for the swell to drop. The idea was to go for the stacks and stay out there for a couple of nights. Only a few folk are allowed to sleep on Hirta, the rest of us were to stay on the boat. In the end we were beaten by the conditions and went out for a day trip on the last possible day just to have a look. Found some shelter behind Boreray and managed to land. Definitely not a climbing trip, one pitch of horrible stuff (fun in orienteering shoes that were worn for the steep grass above), a wade through guano and 300m of steep grass and a couple of pinnacles. Pure walk ups are available depending on the sea state.
Climbing big stuff on a day trip seems pretty out there. The crags on Hirta are very impressive - scary black walls going on for ever.
I spent over a week on Lewis waiting for the swell to drop. The idea was to go for the stacks and stay out there for a couple of nights. Only a few folk are allowed to sleep on Hirta, the rest of us were to stay on the boat. In the end we were beaten by the conditions and went out for a day trip on the last possible day just to have a look. Found some shelter behind Boreray and managed to land. Definitely not a climbing trip, one pitch of horrible stuff (fun in orienteering shoes that were worn for the steep grass above), a wade through guano and 300m of steep grass and a couple of pinnacles. Pure walk ups are available depending on the sea state.
Climbing big stuff on a day trip seems pretty out there. The crags on Hirta are very impressive - scary black walls going on for ever.
Post edited at 14:41
In reply to Fat Bumbly2:
Ah well, sounds like you had a fun trip anyhow! The route I referred to is on the 'Triple 5' DVD if you haven't seen it.
Ah well, sounds like you had a fun trip anyhow! The route I referred to is on the 'Triple 5' DVD if you haven't seen it.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...