UKC

Trip to Majorca - Any advice?

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 Leo Woodfelder 07 Mar 2014
Hi guys, going to Majorca from the 3rd to the 12th April. Thought I'd put out a message to the UKC massive for advice.

We haven't got round to booking our accommodation yet so any tips on the best areas to stay for access to crags would be cool!

Recommendations of routes would also be ace. The book is on order at the mo so obviously will have a good gander before we go but personal experience is often better than guidebook write ups. We're mainly operating in the 6b to 7a range(hopefully) and any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Also I've read much about the restrictions, has anyone been recently and had any issues?

Cheers for reading guys and thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

Leo

In reply to Leo Woodfelder:

*bump
 TK52 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Leo Woodfelder:

Are you going for sport in the North or DWS in the South East? I can advise on DWS accommodation but can't help for the mountains unless you want a two hour drive each morning!
 gingernick 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Leo Woodfelder:

Booking.com for accommodation is spot on. I stay at port de soller or near Palma. Car hire is best to get around which is easy. Rock fax guide is best just watch out for some of the older bolts at some crags. Loads to do at your grade at sa gubia so you could start there. Don't forget to sample the local hospitality. A beautiful island.
Mallorca climbing 11 Mar 2014

Hi guys! How many of you are there? I have a couple places in the center of the island, so you can reach anywhere in under an hour.
Restrictions only affect Fraguel, DWS in Manacor and the Solarium sector at Garrafa. Although, outside the season, if you went DWS to the most remote ones (f.ex.:Cala Varques), you should be fine.
I defenitely recommend Cala Magraner and Port de Valldemossa and Garrafa. If going to Garrafa, please, don't get through the fence towards Solarium...the situation is delicate with the owner.

You have my contact number on the Sineu house rockfax add.

Warm wishes,
J.
In reply to Mallorca climbing: Hi everyone, thanks for the advice. We've booked a little apartment in Soller as it seems fairly easy for access to most places.

Doubt we'll be doing any DWS this time, probably a little chilly! We'll be v careful of the access restrictions, wouldn't want to make a bad situation worse. Meeting up with a Majorcan friend when we get out there so will hopefully get some up-to date info on the situation with other crags. Can't wait to get out there now!

ian stewart 16 Apr 2014
Hi all,

Have just returned from a week in Mallorca, generally no access issues, only problem was at Garrafa, where the sector solarium is very much out of bounds because of conflict with the local hunters. One local climber was suggesting you might get shot if you climbed there (possible slight mis-translation of his mime - my spanish isn't good!!)

Trip report here:
http://stewartmountainskills.blogspot.co.uk/

We also did a traverse of the Caval de Bernat ridge above Port a Pollenca, which I would recommend for a rest/wet day. Like the best bits of Skye, but with a tiny walk in and sunshine!

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