/ Best Pembrokeshire multipitch VS climbs

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Bradders - on 07 Mar 2014
Ok, so I am going down Pembrokeshire for the first time.
What crags should I visit?
What are the best multipitch climbs around the VS/HVS grade?
What do people recommend to make it a memorable visit?

Cheers
Bradley
FactorXXX - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

If it's South Pembroke, then this is the obvious vertical one: -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24624
John2 - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Multipitch VS - Blue Sky, Landvetter, Joybringer.
luke glaister - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Great shouts for blue sky. I did it last month and it was class. Well worth the trip there for that route alone. Not done joybringer yet but will be having a look at it soon. This Sunday hopefully...
Luke.
Ann S on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Heart of Darkness at Mowing Word if you are both happy on long traverse routes.

Jon Stewart - on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Ann S:

> Heart of Darkness at Mowing Word if you are both happy on long traverse routes.

It is HVS, but very easy climbing. Don't know what the second pitch is like but I remember a belay with some very small wires!
Ann S on 07 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Indeed they were Jon. It's at the end of the long traverse pitch where I had to climb through by almost standing on my partners head. If I had come off we would both have been in the sea.
The Ivanator - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Twinkler at Trwyn Llwyd http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46397 upgraded to HVS in new guide though.
Armorican is single pitch, but don't miss it. Another vote for Blue Sky.
FactorXXX - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

It is HVS, but very easy climbing. Don't know what the second pitch is like but I remember a belay with some very small wires!

I did 'Sealhunt' as the second pitch. Extremely good combination, but I think it knocks it up to at least top end E1 (maybe the move to get into the groove is hard for shorties?).
The semi-hanging belay at the end of the first pitch adds to the attraction and even though the wires are small/medium, they are bomber and easily equalised.
FactorXXX - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Blue Sky has rightly been mentioned as a must do multi-pitch VS (I provided a link in the initial reply to the OP).
However, I personally think it could quite easily be done as a single pitch...
Jon Stewart - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to FactorXXX:

> I did 'Sealhunt' as the second pitch. Extremely good combination, but I think it knocks it up to at least top end E1 (maybe the move to get into the groove is hard for shorties?).

Are you sure? Sealhunt is the brilliant E1 which climbs up just after you go round the arete to get established at the start of the traverse of P1. It's stretchy, interesting moves in a wild and wonderful position. New Morning is the crack that goes from the belay at the end of the first pitch, and is a more usual finish to HOD, which is what I did too.
FactorXXX - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I'm fairly sure we did 'Sealhunt' as opposed to the usual 'New Morning' connection on approval of some people very much in the know about all things Pembroke.
One thing I remember, is having a bitch of a time leaving a ledge and getting established in a groove/crack.
However, it was about 15 years ago, so maybe I'm getting mixed up?
Jon Stewart - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to FactorXXX:

If you did Sealhunt, then your pitch 1 of HOD would have been very short and the belay rather uncomfortable!
Al Evans on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Another vote for Blue Sky, watch the holes that look like puddles as you cross the submerged limestone pavement to the start, my partner stepped in one and almost disappeared :-)
swmackey - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Another shout for Blue Sky. You can do it as one pitch, but I think you would probably run out of gear 1/2-3/4 of the way up.
alan moore - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:
2 pitch climbs are few and far between in Pembroke.
Sea Groove
Diedre Sud
Blue Sky
Space
Galactic Coordinator
And Twinkler are all very good.

JamButty - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Bradders:

Not many multipitchers, but Front Line at St Govans is a good easy HVS
ads.ukclimbing.com
FactorXXX - on 08 Mar 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Are you sure? Sealhunt is the brilliant E1 which climbs up just after you go round the arete to get established at the start of the traverse of P1. It's stretchy, interesting moves in a wild and wonderful position. New Morning is the crack that goes from the belay at the end of the first pitch, and is a more usual finish to HOD, which is what I did too.

You're absolutely right!
It was a long time ago that I did those routes, so got a bit muddled up!!!

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