/ Costa blanca for a beginner

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ola.b - on 11 Mar 2014
I'm going with the girlfriend to Costa Blanca this easter, and I need to figure out what crags will work for the both of us..

Do you have suggestions for crags for a beginner? She hasn't been climbing too long, but she'll climb 5's in a go or two and redpoint 6a once in a while.

I'm looking for crags with nice routes around french 5..

also, tips on accomodation for two..
The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Orange House is a good base. Sella, Sierra de Toix, Echo Valley, Alcalali all have good routes at 5 - 6a. Sella is awesome, the further up the valley you go the less polished the easier routes are. There has been new development since the 2013 guide was published (above Sector Final) I think there are some new easy routes there that will be totally free of polish. There is a downloadable topo for the new Sella climbs on the Orange House website if you register with them (free to do).
Nige M - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Sella - but, as mentioned, many of the easier routes are very polished and some (though not all) are also quite run out.
Forada - south side. Very friendly routes that are well bolted and quite slabby. Beautiful spot.
Echo 1.5 - very friendly routes that are well bolted.
Toix Far Oeste - lots of decent easier routes, though some showing their age.
Alcalali
Font d'Axia
Salem
Bellús - a bit of a drive but a great crag for doing lots in a day.


Tony Naylor on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Sierra de Toix fits your requirements to a T. Loads of easy (F3-4) stuff to warm up on, loads of F5-6a. At F6a, Tropical Dreams is a real gem.

Lovely area, too.
Rich2002 on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Tony Naylor:

I found Sierra de Toix a loverly place but sparcely bolted. Easy climbing but if you are not used to being 2 plus meters above your last bolt then i suggest another area. Alcalali was great but get there early as it can get quite busy.
Kid Spatula - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Alcalali has some worryingly spaced bolts as well mind. One of the 5's on the left particularly.
David Coley - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Stay at the orange house and ask the owners when you get there
GrahamD - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

For cheap accommodation, you can try off season hotels / packages anywhere along the coast(Alicante, Benidorm, Altea, Calpe)

The Rockfax is probably the only guide you will need and has great coverage at the grades you are looking for. For a first trip I'd look at Sella as its such a big area.

Rockfax also has a list of possible accommodation options. Last time I wen I stayed at Compass West which worked out a lot cheaper than Orange House but I'm almost certainly not comparing like-with-like
BAdhoc - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

Also heading to the orange house in a few weeks is the rock fax the best guide for the area (along with the topos of course)

The Ivanator - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to BAdhoc:

Yes, by a distance - quite a few of the continentals use the British Rockfax as well - it is far superior to any local guidebooks I saw, although the coverage is not absolutely comprehensive. Still enough in there for a lifetime of climbing though!
A Mountain Journey - on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Near to Alcalali you'll find Murla (it's part of the same escarpment). The initial section is all overhanging, but keep going and you'll come to a fine area of slabs that are mostly very well bolted. The routes are quite short, the bolts all look pretty new too. And the views are even better than at Alcalali.
Personally i find the Calpe area a perfect base for a few reasons. Firstly, being on the coast the weather is more reliable, then there's the huge amount of bars & restaurants for evenings out, and finally it's positioned well for some brilliant crags. But of course where you stay will depend upon where you want to climb the most.
Have a great time.

Tony Naylor on 11 Mar 2014
In reply to Rich2002:

> I found Sierra de Toix a loverly place but sparcely bolted.

It didn't seem that way to me at all (and I'm far from bold) so I'm guessing you and I went to different parts of the crag - it is huge, after all.

GrahamD - on 12 Mar 2014
In reply to BAdhoc:

As far as I can tell, the RockFax is pretty much the de facto guide of choice for visitors of all nationalities. There are a few loose ends, I thought (as there are with any guide, but overall it will do everything you need it to do.
ndtodd1989 - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

Hello everyone, I am heading to the Orange House from April 11th to 19th and am curious how many of you will be there. I will be a solo climber from California and am in need of a group to join. I hear its a great spot to climb and I look forward to checking out the spots.

Best,

Nick
Andrew000 - on 13 Mar 2014
In reply to ola.b:

I will be at the orange house at easter arriving the 4th april for 10 days, there will be 2 of us. I have been there twice before I know some of the crags. andrew
Sam Mayfield - on 18 Mar 2014
In reply to ndtodd1989:

Nice to see so many of you coming to stay with us, even if we are not the cheapest accommodation I do hope we offer things that others don't/can't!

We have some new topos that guests can access and hope you have all downloaded the miniguides from the website - http://theorangehouse.co.uk/mini-guides/pdf-page

email me samorange@gmail.com if you need the password.

Sam Orange

BAdhoc - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to ola.b:
Here at the orange house now. Echo 1.5 is a good shout, gaudalest has a few nice 5's if a bit long and toasty in the sun! Crag X has a few great easy routes, been told the 6a's are tough tho, and the lower buttress has new routes that aren't on any topos that are tricky! Going to a couple more crags over the next few days too so will update!
Post edited at 21:29
Steve Green - on 11 Apr 2014
In reply to ola.b:
There's so much good accommodation in Sella village itself (Casaroc, Sella Bunkhouse, CaIsaiToni, Villapico, El Mirador) that you don't need to stay further afield - best base for all the Costa Blanca climbing - and a lovely village where they welcome the foreign visitor!
Post edited at 09:35

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