UKC

No.4 Gully Cornice Collapse. General warning.

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 AlH 13 Mar 2014
Good advice from Alan Kimber about the hazard posed by cornices on many Scottish peaks at the moment: https://www.facebook.com/alan.kimber.35/posts/10151882612200947
"Had an extensive chat with the person who went 300m when Number Four Gully cornice collapsed underneath him. He is an extremely experienced mountaineer. He was around three or four metres back from the edge and had seen from the side that the cornice was not undercut. The fracture happened at least a metre behind him and blocks the size of a garage slid down. At the moment my opinion is that no climbs beneath cornices should be attempted. People on the plateau may trigger a release, if you do not! Even though there was no overhang on the cornice, it is clear that a hidden weakness existed and has been produced by the continuous wintry storms over the last three months. Plenty of action all over the Minus and Orion faces, where no serious cornice risk exists. I'd advise avoiding anything at the top of Observatory Gully, including around Hadrian's Wall for the time being. Better safe than sorry. The climber is okay with a broken lower leg."
 CurlyStevo 13 Mar 2014
In reply to AlH:

Thanks for the heads up.
 Jamie B 13 Mar 2014
In reply to AlH:

I was struck by the scale of the cornices, and the amount of fracturing on a walk around the Mamores recently, not an area which is normally noted for big cornices. Some of these are more like seracs!
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.230854507118309.1073741848.189398...
Post edited at 09:18
frenchy 22 Mar 2014
Thanks Alan. As you know we were on tower ridge and we witnessed the incident, even watching the guy trying to stay near the surface as he was avalanched.
The team just in front of us alerted the rescue services. One lucky guy.

Frenchy
OP AlH 22 Mar 2014
In reply to frenchy:

Hi Frenchy, hope you enjoyed what was otherwise a great day. Not a nice thing to see
Great to see you out and about though!

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