UKC

Crag near Bothwell Castle.

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 pete123 13 Mar 2014

Hi,

I've come across two wee crags, one I use for Dry Tooling, however the other has bolts on it and some cracking features. I was wandering who bolted it and what grades were given.
The two cracks offer very sustained climbing for about 10 meters.

Pete
Post edited at 12:01
Beaky 13 Mar 2014
In reply to pete123:

Are you talking about the Towers at Blantyre? they are listed here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=15738


Where are you dry tooling?
 Fraser 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Beaky:

> Are you talking about the Towers at Blantyre? they are listed here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=15738

> Where are you dry tooling?

Hopefully not at the towers, there was a thread about that last year wasn't there?

Beaky 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Fraser:

Don't know fraser, been off here for 8 months or so.
OP pete123 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Fraser:

No not the Towers, I've climbed there a few times myself. Its all natural hard sandstone, Tooling crag is only good for that. The other has pockets and a couple of finger cracks running the height of the crag.
Best way to describe it! resembles some Cummingston stuff. Potential for some bouldering too....
Someone knows,I'll start the clean up over the next few weeks.
OP pete123 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Beaky:

I'm not getting into a Tooling debate!neither do I want the place swamped by activists.
It's not the Towers.

Pete
 JLS 13 Mar 2014
In reply to pete123:

Is the crag with bolts on the opposite side of the river from the castle?
The one with religious carvings in the rock?

If so, the bolts are very poor shallow aid bolts and the rock is soft as continually sandy. I wouldn't recommend anything other than top roping there. I doubt bolts and leader placed gear would hold much of a fall.

I like to think any climbing you did there would avoid damage to the carvings which have some local heritage merit.

I've no idea about the grades or who originally bolted it but it goes back probably 30 years plus.

Fester might know...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=6254
OP pete123 13 Mar 2014
In reply to JLS:

Cheers John, Yea you avoid such carvings......I read it was the masons who done the carvings. Seems there's a cave system which crosses under the Clyde and into the Castle.

Thanks again.

Pete
 Fester 13 Mar 2014
In reply to pete123:

The routes were originally done by members of the Clyde Valley MC about 40 years ago.I did have the names of the guys but have long forgotten them.
There used to be a couple of dodgy old pegs there as well.

There are a lot of stories floating around about who originally done the carvings but the truth is it was local guy from Blantyre and they are of relatively recent origin.They are a bit naff but I like them.

The tunnel story has been floating around for years and a quick Google will find you the truth

I agree with JLS and top roping only.There is a good route on the castle walls as well but I didn`t tell you that !

There are also some short chipped routes of varying standards under the big bridge in Larkhall though I think JLS and Gavin were down a few years ago and thought it may have been banned or something.


OP pete123 13 Mar 2014
In reply to Fester:

Thanks for all your advice and your email.

Pete

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