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The good weather appears to be holding out. And reports have it that the conditions in Scotland were perfect last week. I hope everyone’s done a better job than me getting out to make the most of it!
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=580171
Summary of last week:
mrchewy - I think you mentioned something about mono pull-ups last week. Well done!
Dandan82 - Any more progress on Sign of the Vulcan?
Si Cox - Thanks for the link. Have you got far through the Self Coached Climber?
Eagle River - Nice work on Raindogs. How’s the tweaky finger?
stevemarkperry - That mtb demo sounds good. Any climbing this week?
AJM - Getting spanked on pockets just means you’re working a weakness! It will set you up well for any more pockety stuff later in the trip (did you say you’re stopping in Frankenjura?)
hms - Plenty of climbing, as usual, despite illness. How was Friday?
Ali - Do you take part in the orienteering too?
Nick Russell - Have you not heard of rest days? They’re sometimes necessary.
mattrm - How was the Crack climbing class? I didn’t realise TomPR used to post on fit club - we should get him back here!
mbh - Nothing to report, except for a 20 mile, hilly, off-road, muddy race. Getting back into it this week now you’ve shaken the cold?
Exile - Did you get out in the excellent Scottish conditions this week?
JimmyKay - Still on the bouldering?
Humperdink - How did the 12 Stage relays go?
Nomics4sale - Nice work on the Almscliff bouldering! Any more ticks there?
Alun - Sounds like a tough bike ride (but I’m not a cyclist, so what do I know?) Good work on the weight.
Ally Smith - Did you get back on Fisheye? Progress?
IainRUK - Interesting to hear about the different attitude of running clubs over there. Keeping up the miles?
grubes - Did you get out on your bike?
Joughton - Careful with the elbows. A lot of tendon injuries go away once you’re warmed up then come back worse the next day.
Sankey - Back into it this week?
Just Tintin - Have you got over the lurgy? Stamina shouldn’t be too affected by a poor week, or will at least come back quickly.
Luke Owens - Are you feeling it a bit more for the roped climbing? If not, a bit of a bouldering phase won’t be a problem!
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=580171
Summary of last week:
mrchewy - I think you mentioned something about mono pull-ups last week. Well done!
Dandan82 - Any more progress on Sign of the Vulcan?
Si Cox - Thanks for the link. Have you got far through the Self Coached Climber?
Eagle River - Nice work on Raindogs. How’s the tweaky finger?
stevemarkperry - That mtb demo sounds good. Any climbing this week?
AJM - Getting spanked on pockets just means you’re working a weakness! It will set you up well for any more pockety stuff later in the trip (did you say you’re stopping in Frankenjura?)
hms - Plenty of climbing, as usual, despite illness. How was Friday?
Ali - Do you take part in the orienteering too?
Nick Russell - Have you not heard of rest days? They’re sometimes necessary.
mattrm - How was the Crack climbing class? I didn’t realise TomPR used to post on fit club - we should get him back here!
mbh - Nothing to report, except for a 20 mile, hilly, off-road, muddy race. Getting back into it this week now you’ve shaken the cold?
Exile - Did you get out in the excellent Scottish conditions this week?
JimmyKay - Still on the bouldering?
Humperdink - How did the 12 Stage relays go?
Nomics4sale - Nice work on the Almscliff bouldering! Any more ticks there?
Alun - Sounds like a tough bike ride (but I’m not a cyclist, so what do I know?) Good work on the weight.
Ally Smith - Did you get back on Fisheye? Progress?
IainRUK - Interesting to hear about the different attitude of running clubs over there. Keeping up the miles?
grubes - Did you get out on your bike?
Joughton - Careful with the elbows. A lot of tendon injuries go away once you’re warmed up then come back worse the next day.
Sankey - Back into it this week?
Just Tintin - Have you got over the lurgy? Stamina shouldn’t be too affected by a poor week, or will at least come back quickly.
Luke Owens - Are you feeling it a bit more for the roped climbing? If not, a bit of a bouldering phase won’t be a problem!
In reply to Nick Russell: Thanks Nick,
The pain in my left elbow I was feeling after El Chorri has completely gone now, which was actually on the tip of the bone on the inside of my elbow, which is good news. However what is still a bit sore is just above that point on my right elbow. Not really sure if this is the same as Golfers? Either way I've been warming up much more carefully this week, including antagonistic exercises before I even start climbing, and this seems to help.
Mon - Session at home. Spent a long time having a really thorough warm up, then did some fingerboarding and various types of pull-ups. Managed to one arm dead hang the middle hold of the BM 2000, and made good progress on the 35s. The goal is to manage ten leg raises on them as a core/contact challenge.
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering at AW. Bit of a rubbish session as I forgot my rock shoes! Still managed a couple of tough V6s on the left side, which are normally quite tough for the grade so I was pleased with that. Finished off with core and stretching, which made the pain more tolerable the next morning!
Thurs - rest
Fri - busy
Sat - Session at the Tor. Warmed up then did some problems I hadn't managed before, which was nice. Then had a play on the Chimes head wall, to so I could link a 7c+ I'd done before to get an 8a tick. The head wall is meant to be 7c, but I found it to be pretty thin and techy, and it took a while to figure things out. Didn't even manage it in a oner, but it feels like it will all go with some more work and warmer weather.
Sun - got quite a lot of work to get through, but I might fit in a run or finger board session if I have time later on.
Cheers, Jake
The pain in my left elbow I was feeling after El Chorri has completely gone now, which was actually on the tip of the bone on the inside of my elbow, which is good news. However what is still a bit sore is just above that point on my right elbow. Not really sure if this is the same as Golfers? Either way I've been warming up much more carefully this week, including antagonistic exercises before I even start climbing, and this seems to help.
Mon - Session at home. Spent a long time having a really thorough warm up, then did some fingerboarding and various types of pull-ups. Managed to one arm dead hang the middle hold of the BM 2000, and made good progress on the 35s. The goal is to manage ten leg raises on them as a core/contact challenge.
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering at AW. Bit of a rubbish session as I forgot my rock shoes! Still managed a couple of tough V6s on the left side, which are normally quite tough for the grade so I was pleased with that. Finished off with core and stretching, which made the pain more tolerable the next morning!
Thurs - rest
Fri - busy
Sat - Session at the Tor. Warmed up then did some problems I hadn't managed before, which was nice. Then had a play on the Chimes head wall, to so I could link a 7c+ I'd done before to get an 8a tick. The head wall is meant to be 7c, but I found it to be pretty thin and techy, and it took a while to figure things out. Didn't even manage it in a oner, but it feels like it will all go with some more work and warmer weather.
Sun - got quite a lot of work to get through, but I might fit in a run or finger board session if I have time later on.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, Tweaky finger is now an angry finger.
Tues: Yoga
Wed: Malham, Raindogs was dry at the bottom so I had a largely fruitless day messing up the bottom sequence because I couldn't pull on my left hand given the finger injury was too sore.
Fri: Yoga
That was it for last week. In hindsight, spending 3 days on Raindogs when you know your finger is injured was a stupid idea but I was too keen to get out on rock. It's feeling like an A2 pulley issue in the middle finger so I'll need to rest, massage and do cold water treatment for a week then have some easy sessions for a couple of weeks to see how it's healing. Timing sucks given everything has been piss wet through for 2 months and I get this just as everything dries out!
I might even end up climbing some *shudder* easy trad to get time outdoors whilst injured.
Thanks Nick, Tweaky finger is now an angry finger.
Tues: Yoga
Wed: Malham, Raindogs was dry at the bottom so I had a largely fruitless day messing up the bottom sequence because I couldn't pull on my left hand given the finger injury was too sore.
Fri: Yoga
That was it for last week. In hindsight, spending 3 days on Raindogs when you know your finger is injured was a stupid idea but I was too keen to get out on rock. It's feeling like an A2 pulley issue in the middle finger so I'll need to rest, massage and do cold water treatment for a week then have some easy sessions for a couple of weeks to see how it's healing. Timing sucks given everything has been piss wet through for 2 months and I get this just as everything dries out!
I might even end up climbing some *shudder* easy trad to get time outdoors whilst injured.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks, Nick. How was your week? Managing to fit in some rest days?!
I've got as far as the exercises on flagging, dropped knees etc. It's at the stage where I think I need to incorporate them into my sessions at the wall, though the question will be timing and efficiency.
Thought the thread on sore elbows (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=581525) was quite interesting in terms of training. The point about the common plateau at 6b/c got me going in regard to avoiding getting into doing the same thing too much.
In terms of last week, managed three sessions and managing to link more of the overhanging traverse project. Need to try to put it all together now.
Outdoors, am starting to think about trad, now that the weather is improving. Would love to get into multipitch more, but key would be finding space around family and work. Out of interest, would Pembroke be a good area for introductory multi-pitch, or bit over-ambitious?
Anyway, goals for this week are to keep plugging away, introduce some exercises from the Self-coached book and try and put together the traverse project.
Thanks, Nick. How was your week? Managing to fit in some rest days?!
I've got as far as the exercises on flagging, dropped knees etc. It's at the stage where I think I need to incorporate them into my sessions at the wall, though the question will be timing and efficiency.
Thought the thread on sore elbows (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=581525) was quite interesting in terms of training. The point about the common plateau at 6b/c got me going in regard to avoiding getting into doing the same thing too much.
In terms of last week, managed three sessions and managing to link more of the overhanging traverse project. Need to try to put it all together now.
Outdoors, am starting to think about trad, now that the weather is improving. Would love to get into multipitch more, but key would be finding space around family and work. Out of interest, would Pembroke be a good area for introductory multi-pitch, or bit over-ambitious?
Anyway, goals for this week are to keep plugging away, introduce some exercises from the Self-coached book and try and put together the traverse project.
In reply to Si Cox:
A bit of a frustrating week for me, but I did take a couple of rest days. Actually, my body didn't give me a choice - I was completely wiped out at the start of the week.
Have you climbed single pitch sea cliffs before? If so, no problem with introducing yourself to multi-pitch climbs at Pembroke. If not, how about starting somewhere like Wintour's Leap in the Wye valley?
> Thanks, Nick. How was your week? Managing to fit in some rest days?!
A bit of a frustrating week for me, but I did take a couple of rest days. Actually, my body didn't give me a choice - I was completely wiped out at the start of the week.
> Out of interest, would Pembroke be a good area for introductory multi-pitch, or bit over-ambitious?
Have you climbed single pitch sea cliffs before? If so, no problem with introducing yourself to multi-pitch climbs at Pembroke. If not, how about starting somewhere like Wintour's Leap in the Wye valley?
Correct link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=580865
M - Yoga. Failed to get to swimming afterwards. Completely knackered.
T - Still wiped out. Bailed on a planned afternoon in Cheddar. Definitely the right choice.
W - Swimming (~2km). Starting to get a bit of energy back, good light session.
T - 4x4s at UCR. Had planned to go out to the gorge but got stuck at work and bailed.
F - Bouldering at Bloc, then some core/antagonist work. Plans to go to the gorge fell through again.
S,S - No real training, but a couple of nice walks on the Long Mynd in the sun.
A rather frustrating week, with three planned outdoor climbing days falling through for various reasons. It seems that I got the training/rest balance wrong (again), but I'll probably learn some day. It's just as well I didn't try to go swimming on Monday - I'd probably have fallen off my bike on the way there!
Next week is supposed to be quite light, tapering for the swimming gala on Sunday. In practice, I'm not sure how that will work out, it depends a bit on the weather. I'm really keen to get out to Cheddar and have a play on Valley of The Blind, especially now we've had a couple of dry weeks to get rid of any seepage.
Short term goals (March)
Sub-19:00 5k run.
4 days out on rock. Two down, should exceed this if the weather stays even remotely stable
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. (Swimming relays gala 23rd March.) I'm actually a bit nervous about this. Swimming competition is really intense and I haven't done it for ages!
Medium term goals (March)
Stick to the training plan. 7/12 weeks down. I'm not really sticking to it, but having a vague plan in mind is a good thing, I think.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 6c
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, Clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 78/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=580865
M - Yoga. Failed to get to swimming afterwards. Completely knackered.
T - Still wiped out. Bailed on a planned afternoon in Cheddar. Definitely the right choice.
W - Swimming (~2km). Starting to get a bit of energy back, good light session.
T - 4x4s at UCR. Had planned to go out to the gorge but got stuck at work and bailed.
F - Bouldering at Bloc, then some core/antagonist work. Plans to go to the gorge fell through again.
S,S - No real training, but a couple of nice walks on the Long Mynd in the sun.
A rather frustrating week, with three planned outdoor climbing days falling through for various reasons. It seems that I got the training/rest balance wrong (again), but I'll probably learn some day. It's just as well I didn't try to go swimming on Monday - I'd probably have fallen off my bike on the way there!
Next week is supposed to be quite light, tapering for the swimming gala on Sunday. In practice, I'm not sure how that will work out, it depends a bit on the weather. I'm really keen to get out to Cheddar and have a play on Valley of The Blind, especially now we've had a couple of dry weeks to get rid of any seepage.
Short term goals (March)
Sub-19:00 5k run.
4 days out on rock. Two down, should exceed this if the weather stays even remotely stable
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. (Swimming relays gala 23rd March.) I'm actually a bit nervous about this. Swimming competition is really intense and I haven't done it for ages!
Medium term goals (March)
Stick to the training plan. 7/12 weeks down. I'm not really sticking to it, but having a vague plan in mind is a good thing, I think.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 6c
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, Clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 78/416km down
Swimming: Enter some competitions. Find out where I'm at in e.g. 100m fr, 100m br, 200m fr.
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Have climbed single pitch on the Gower before, but would say it was not the full-on sea cliff experience. Wintours is a good suggestion, though - cheers.
Also, pasted the wrong link before. Meant to reference the 'why am I not improving' thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=581537
Some interesting points there. Worth a look for anyone browing here, if you're working through a plateau.
Have climbed single pitch on the Gower before, but would say it was not the full-on sea cliff experience. Wintours is a good suggestion, though - cheers.
Also, pasted the wrong link before. Meant to reference the 'why am I not improving' thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=581537
Some interesting points there. Worth a look for anyone browing here, if you're working through a plateau.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing fit club Nick. I too had a frstrating week. Started well and went down hill.
M cycle commute. Evening - no partner at UCR so did a boulder warm-up then circuits. Got the downstairs 7a. Got to 39 on upstairs 7a+ - best yet. Then did the 7a+ to where ever I could reach then straight onto an easy circuit to depump en route many many times. Very tired by the ed of the evening!
T cycle commute, TRX in the evening.
W cycle commute, the UCR in the evening. Got there later than was ideal so v busy. 6a 6b/ 6b+ 6b+ / 6c 6c / 7b 6b+ / 6c 6b+ / 6b+ 6a. 7b I had intended to work, but there was a queue for the line so just had to hurl myself at it. Got way past my previous stuck point, but lacked momentum for a snatchy move over the upper lip. Will try to practice the top 2 clips again.
T cycle commute then Bloc in the evening. Far too short a session due to family member whittering. Came home and did a fingerboard session too.
F outside at Goblin Combe. Thick fog, with an icy wind. Sun never broke through. Got v cold. Did manage to do an E2 which I'd fallen off in the summer though.
S nowt
S was supposed to be a nice session working hard sport route at New Quarry with daughter. She was less than keen, grumbled ceaselessly, had a hissy fit on the warm up route so we came home. 1 sodding route - that was it. Feeling ever so slightly pissed off. Went and found a couple of local stone walls and did fingery crimpy traverses - about 100m of them.
I desperately need an outdoor climbing partner who's reliable & will help me push the grade, and decent weather to climb in! Nick- this next week isn't looking great (weather or work) but wondered how the following one is looking for you?
Thanks for doing fit club Nick. I too had a frstrating week. Started well and went down hill.
M cycle commute. Evening - no partner at UCR so did a boulder warm-up then circuits. Got the downstairs 7a. Got to 39 on upstairs 7a+ - best yet. Then did the 7a+ to where ever I could reach then straight onto an easy circuit to depump en route many many times. Very tired by the ed of the evening!
T cycle commute, TRX in the evening.
W cycle commute, the UCR in the evening. Got there later than was ideal so v busy. 6a 6b/ 6b+ 6b+ / 6c 6c / 7b 6b+ / 6c 6b+ / 6b+ 6a. 7b I had intended to work, but there was a queue for the line so just had to hurl myself at it. Got way past my previous stuck point, but lacked momentum for a snatchy move over the upper lip. Will try to practice the top 2 clips again.
T cycle commute then Bloc in the evening. Far too short a session due to family member whittering. Came home and did a fingerboard session too.
F outside at Goblin Combe. Thick fog, with an icy wind. Sun never broke through. Got v cold. Did manage to do an E2 which I'd fallen off in the summer though.
S nowt
S was supposed to be a nice session working hard sport route at New Quarry with daughter. She was less than keen, grumbled ceaselessly, had a hissy fit on the warm up route so we came home. 1 sodding route - that was it. Feeling ever so slightly pissed off. Went and found a couple of local stone walls and did fingery crimpy traverses - about 100m of them.
I desperately need an outdoor climbing partner who's reliable & will help me push the grade, and decent weather to climb in! Nick- this next week isn't looking great (weather or work) but wondered how the following one is looking for you?
In reply to Nick Russell:
I can't recall if you've been on votb before and hence have already committed to it, but if you want a 7c to do that no one argues with (votb is 7b+ in swc, if its something that matters at all to you) and more importantly an excellent route besides then I really rated circus circus next door.
And if you decide it takes your fancy I've got somewhere about 2 pages of detailed micro beta for everyday lives of ordinary people if you want it.
I can't recall if you've been on votb before and hence have already committed to it, but if you want a 7c to do that no one argues with (votb is 7b+ in swc, if its something that matters at all to you) and more importantly an excellent route besides then I really rated circus circus next door.
And if you decide it takes your fancy I've got somewhere about 2 pages of detailed micro beta for everyday lives of ordinary people if you want it.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers for this Nick - hope the swimming comp goes well next weekend.
Anyone got any advice on getting my head sorted after groundfall? Weirdly not worried about the belaying (the cause) but imagining everything that could go wrong whilst I'm climbing. Gear unstitching, rockfall, etc. Totally distracted by my brain whilst outside this week and climbed horrendously.
Mon - Boulder room warm up. Big campus rail with feet on, hands moving. 3 sets of 2min/1.5min/1min/1min with same rests. Totally beasted by this.
Tue - Rest. DOMS so bad in the evening I actually had ibruprofen!
Wed - Boulder room but just not trusting my feet, worried tweaked ankle might let go. Crap session.
Thu - Stanage Popular. Bad head after fall it would seem. Onsighted a HS and a VS (5a), 2nded a lot of HVS with falls due to being distracted. Loved Missisippi. Flying Buttress Direct was just too strong for me. FAIL.
Fri - Millstone. Onsighted a VS but head was in pieces as I was jamming when I hit the ground the other week. 2nded some stuff, took a leader fall. Good trip.
Sat & Sun - Working. DOMS from trying hard on grit.
Tried hard this week, pleased with the effort I put in and having DOMS twice from climbing is a new experience. Will keep up the campus rail session, aiming to extend all 4 segments to 2min.
Struggling with my head tho. Not using my feet well as worried about the ankle, not trusting my instincts, worrying about all manner of crap that's irrelevant.
Took the fight to Millstone and pleased I got stuck into the jamming. A gibbering wreck at times but came away able to finger lock/jam, fist and wrist jam but that hand jamming? How the hell do people manage that? Utterly puzzled. 2nded Embankment 3 and loved it from the tat upwards. Some finger locks and then some face climbing! The best moments of the whole trip, as I actually knew how to climb again.
This week is the new members meet in North Wales but I think I'm gonna go and solo around on Idwel slabs, hopefully that'll sort my head out.
Cheers for this Nick - hope the swimming comp goes well next weekend.
Anyone got any advice on getting my head sorted after groundfall? Weirdly not worried about the belaying (the cause) but imagining everything that could go wrong whilst I'm climbing. Gear unstitching, rockfall, etc. Totally distracted by my brain whilst outside this week and climbed horrendously.
Mon - Boulder room warm up. Big campus rail with feet on, hands moving. 3 sets of 2min/1.5min/1min/1min with same rests. Totally beasted by this.
Tue - Rest. DOMS so bad in the evening I actually had ibruprofen!
Wed - Boulder room but just not trusting my feet, worried tweaked ankle might let go. Crap session.
Thu - Stanage Popular. Bad head after fall it would seem. Onsighted a HS and a VS (5a), 2nded a lot of HVS with falls due to being distracted. Loved Missisippi. Flying Buttress Direct was just too strong for me. FAIL.
Fri - Millstone. Onsighted a VS but head was in pieces as I was jamming when I hit the ground the other week. 2nded some stuff, took a leader fall. Good trip.
Sat & Sun - Working. DOMS from trying hard on grit.
Tried hard this week, pleased with the effort I put in and having DOMS twice from climbing is a new experience. Will keep up the campus rail session, aiming to extend all 4 segments to 2min.
Struggling with my head tho. Not using my feet well as worried about the ankle, not trusting my instincts, worrying about all manner of crap that's irrelevant.
Took the fight to Millstone and pleased I got stuck into the jamming. A gibbering wreck at times but came away able to finger lock/jam, fist and wrist jam but that hand jamming? How the hell do people manage that? Utterly puzzled. 2nded Embankment 3 and loved it from the tat upwards. Some finger locks and then some face climbing! The best moments of the whole trip, as I actually knew how to climb again.
This week is the new members meet in North Wales but I think I'm gonna go and solo around on Idwel slabs, hopefully that'll sort my head out.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick.
STG
Get strong for trip to Targassone in April.
Get fit for trip to Lleida in May.
MTG
Redpoint 7c (previous best 7b+)
Etape Eryri sportive in June, 165km.
LTG
Redpoint 8a.
M - Rest
T - Power endurance at wall. Ticked a 45 move circuit I'd been working on
W - Rest/work
T - Back to bouldering at wall. Ticked a problem I'd been working on a couple of weeks ago, before starting the power-endurance.
F - Rest
S - Bouldering on the beautiful sandstone of Savassona, about an hour north of Barcelona. Ticked a Font 7A problem, and got somewhere on a 7B. Very happy
S - Roped climbing for the first time in about two years! After warming up I played around on a 7b+/c. Did all the moves pretty easily, but stringing it all together will be a different matter. Maybe next time it will go, but I'm not really that bothered. I was just happy to be there.
So this weekend I had two (very different) days of climbing in a row, which was totally awesome, and I'm very happy. Weight is steady at just under 70kg. No cycling this week so that to change in the week ahead!
Thanks Nick.
STG
Get strong for trip to Targassone in April.
Get fit for trip to Lleida in May.
MTG
Redpoint 7c (previous best 7b+)
Etape Eryri sportive in June, 165km.
LTG
Redpoint 8a.
M - Rest
T - Power endurance at wall. Ticked a 45 move circuit I'd been working on
W - Rest/work
T - Back to bouldering at wall. Ticked a problem I'd been working on a couple of weeks ago, before starting the power-endurance.
F - Rest
S - Bouldering on the beautiful sandstone of Savassona, about an hour north of Barcelona. Ticked a Font 7A problem, and got somewhere on a 7B. Very happy
S - Roped climbing for the first time in about two years! After warming up I played around on a 7b+/c. Did all the moves pretty easily, but stringing it all together will be a different matter. Maybe next time it will go, but I'm not really that bothered. I was just happy to be there.
So this weekend I had two (very different) days of climbing in a row, which was totally awesome, and I'm very happy. Weight is steady at just under 70kg. No cycling this week so that to change in the week ahead!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Back from chorro, ah well can't stay on holiday forever.
Goal was to get annak sunnamum. In that sense I failed as I never even got on it. Weather ( sun and wind ) meant crag choices didn't include momia really.
I've got 3 tweaky fingers and didn't want to push it so spent much of the time onsighting in the 6a to 6c range. It was a very nice feeling to be cruising on 6c.
I spied Little Brown Baby a few days in. Jugs all the way so could fit the bill with being kind to fingers. A bolt to bolt showed it was doable. I found myself back there on the last day but got sucked into trying the 6c+ to the side instead. I didn't warm up and got freaked out by the gap between 2nd and 3rd bolts meaning a potential bad fall ( in my head ) into a cave lip. After trying a couple of times I rested, tried again, rested again, manned up and then did it to the top. Bit gutted but there you go. Totally flash pumped I limped my way up the rest of it and didn't have anything left for an rp attempt on LBB.
Had a great trip though with hundreds of metres of different styles of climbing done from amptrax to short slabs and it all felt physically easy.
Also some really nice holiday time with the other half. We may have eaten/drank a little too much though :-
I also got to visit a few new crags, el polvorin being the stand out. Turon West also looked v good if you're climbing 7b and above. I wasn't and struggled like mad on a 6c+/7a. My arse. Technical, fingery and new it needed a good clean. Footholds were pinging everywhere and it was about 7b.
On the downside I'm pissed off with my fingers but happy everything else felt so good. It's showed the training was worth it. So I'm going to start a periodised schedule. Not super strict as I know that stresses me out but I'm going to follow the principles and as it starts off at lowish intensity that should suit my fingers. And after 8 days of climbing out of 9 no elbow/shoulder issues either. At least that seems to be on the mend.
Back from chorro, ah well can't stay on holiday forever.
Goal was to get annak sunnamum. In that sense I failed as I never even got on it. Weather ( sun and wind ) meant crag choices didn't include momia really.
I've got 3 tweaky fingers and didn't want to push it so spent much of the time onsighting in the 6a to 6c range. It was a very nice feeling to be cruising on 6c.
I spied Little Brown Baby a few days in. Jugs all the way so could fit the bill with being kind to fingers. A bolt to bolt showed it was doable. I found myself back there on the last day but got sucked into trying the 6c+ to the side instead. I didn't warm up and got freaked out by the gap between 2nd and 3rd bolts meaning a potential bad fall ( in my head ) into a cave lip. After trying a couple of times I rested, tried again, rested again, manned up and then did it to the top. Bit gutted but there you go. Totally flash pumped I limped my way up the rest of it and didn't have anything left for an rp attempt on LBB.
Had a great trip though with hundreds of metres of different styles of climbing done from amptrax to short slabs and it all felt physically easy.
Also some really nice holiday time with the other half. We may have eaten/drank a little too much though :-
I also got to visit a few new crags, el polvorin being the stand out. Turon West also looked v good if you're climbing 7b and above. I wasn't and struggled like mad on a 6c+/7a. My arse. Technical, fingery and new it needed a good clean. Footholds were pinging everywhere and it was about 7b.
On the downside I'm pissed off with my fingers but happy everything else felt so good. It's showed the training was worth it. So I'm going to start a periodised schedule. Not super strict as I know that stresses me out but I'm going to follow the principles and as it starts off at lowish intensity that should suit my fingers. And after 8 days of climbing out of 9 no elbow/shoulder issues either. At least that seems to be on the mend.
In reply to mrchewy:
Basically just ease back into things really slowly. I took a groundfall in 2011 off a severe. It took me quite a while to get back into the swing of things. I'd say it's made me a bit more cautious. Especially on easy routes. Just drop a few grades, concentrate on climbing really well, stitching routes up with loads of gear and having positive experiences. Have fun basically, don't chase grades. Then slowly up your grade. To be honest, I'm just glad you're ok. It's a horrible experience. Wouldn't wish it on anyone.
Si Cox - There's not really many multi-pitch routes at Pembroke. However it's a great place to climb. Much more adventurous than the Gower. Would deffo be good experience for multipitch routes. I live quite near to Pembroke, so if you ever want someone to show you around, just let me know. Or the Gower for that matter.
> Anyone got any advice on getting my head sorted after groundfall? Weirdly not worried about the belaying (the cause) but imagining everything that could go wrong whilst I'm climbing. Gear unstitching, rockfall, etc. Totally distracted by my brain whilst outside this week and climbed horrendously.
Basically just ease back into things really slowly. I took a groundfall in 2011 off a severe. It took me quite a while to get back into the swing of things. I'd say it's made me a bit more cautious. Especially on easy routes. Just drop a few grades, concentrate on climbing really well, stitching routes up with loads of gear and having positive experiences. Have fun basically, don't chase grades. Then slowly up your grade. To be honest, I'm just glad you're ok. It's a horrible experience. Wouldn't wish it on anyone.
Si Cox - There's not really many multi-pitch routes at Pembroke. However it's a great place to climb. Much more adventurous than the Gower. Would deffo be good experience for multipitch routes. I live quite near to Pembroke, so if you ever want someone to show you around, just let me know. Or the Gower for that matter.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt. Placing gear caused the most stress to be honest, no idea why. I wasn't bothered by the grades I got on this week but I did throw myself at stuff I struggle at - overhangs and jamming... it was like I was trying to make it tough for myself.
Glad you've managed to sort your head tho and are chasing E grades lately.
Cheers Matt. Placing gear caused the most stress to be honest, no idea why. I wasn't bothered by the grades I got on this week but I did throw myself at stuff I struggle at - overhangs and jamming... it was like I was trying to make it tough for myself.
Glad you've managed to sort your head tho and are chasing E grades lately.
In reply to Si Cox:
I'd head for North Wales myself for multipitch, there's just so much to go at. My first outdoor climbs were actually at Tremadog, there's bucketloads of 3/4pitch classics with tree belays, sling belays.. every sort of belay you could want actually and even abseil descents. No roar of the sea to drown out communication which will be important if you're only just getting into multipitch.
Add the Pass, Gogarth, Dinorwig and other multiple places and I'd say you can't go wrong heading north. Pembroke's great but multipitch is not what it excels at.
I'd head for North Wales myself for multipitch, there's just so much to go at. My first outdoor climbs were actually at Tremadog, there's bucketloads of 3/4pitch classics with tree belays, sling belays.. every sort of belay you could want actually and even abseil descents. No roar of the sea to drown out communication which will be important if you're only just getting into multipitch.
Add the Pass, Gogarth, Dinorwig and other multiple places and I'd say you can't go wrong heading north. Pembroke's great but multipitch is not what it excels at.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing the stats. I hope the nice conditions in Scotland coincides with a weekend soon. tompr did fitclub when I started around week 140ish. He stopped a couple of years ago. I just remember him doing thousands of dish tucks and other core stuff. Really nice guy and the class was excellent.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 3lbs (lost 2lbs)
M - Core - 30 mins & elbows
T - Rest
W - 500 dish tucks
T - Rest
F - 1h 30mins indoor climbing
S - elbow exercises
S - lots of DIY!
Still getting some elbow pain. Not been doing the exercises that well, but I've been doing loads of DIY this week. The kitchen is getting closer to being finished however, which is good. Good climbing session on Friday. Could have been better, but ok as a maintenance week. Just need to keep the maintenance up. Try and get a few good weeks in.
2 climbs - 1
3 core - 2
3 elbows - 1
1 climb
3 core
3 elbows
Thanks for doing the stats. I hope the nice conditions in Scotland coincides with a weekend soon. tompr did fitclub when I started around week 140ish. He stopped a couple of years ago. I just remember him doing thousands of dish tucks and other core stuff. Really nice guy and the class was excellent.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 3lbs (lost 2lbs)
M - Core - 30 mins & elbows
T - Rest
W - 500 dish tucks
T - Rest
F - 1h 30mins indoor climbing
S - elbow exercises
S - lots of DIY!
Still getting some elbow pain. Not been doing the exercises that well, but I've been doing loads of DIY this week. The kitchen is getting closer to being finished however, which is good. Good climbing session on Friday. Could have been better, but ok as a maintenance week. Just need to keep the maintenance up. Try and get a few good weeks in.
2 climbs - 1
3 core - 2
3 elbows - 1
1 climb
3 core
3 elbows
In reply to Nick Russell: Cheers for doing the stats. Been more active this week, couple of runs, a walk, and today took the 60 mile drive to the nearest climbing wall, in Milton, PA. Had a good bouldering session there, not sure how often I will make though due to the hire car required!
M: Run 3.8 miles @ 9.23 pace
T:
W:
T:
F: Run 3.8 miles
S: Walked about 6 miles around Mount Nittany and the Bald Eagle State Park
S: Climbing wall: bouldering up to V4
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
M: Run 3.8 miles @ 9.23 pace
T:
W:
T:
F: Run 3.8 miles
S: Walked about 6 miles around Mount Nittany and the Bald Eagle State Park
S: Climbing wall: bouldering up to V4
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to Nick Russell:
Good week, thanks for doing it this week..
Monday: 20.2 on sandy trails 7:20 pace
Tuesday: 13.2 miles (7.3 miles 7:50 pace am, pm: 5.9 7:30 pace on roads around town).
Wednesday: 14.2 miles on road and trail 6:50 pace
Thursday: 14 (7.5 miles on roads 7:40 pace am, pm: 6.25 miles, with 3 x 2km reps on the treadmill around 5:30 pace)..
Friday: 11.1 miles (am 4.1 miles 6:16 pace, pm: 7 miles 8+ pace on local roads)
Saturday: am: 2 mile warm up, adrenalin 5k, 2.5 mile cool down. 16:35 ish for the 5k.. slowed in mile 2 but went off way to quick.. at the end of a 100+ mile week so expected to be tired. First race in nearly 4 months so low 16's or sub 16 should be achievable over the summer. pm: 7.5 miles on road.
Sunday: 14.2 miles 7;50 pace on roads and trails, pretty tired but free bar also took its toll...
101 miles for the week and a good chunk of quality..
Good week, thanks for doing it this week..
Monday: 20.2 on sandy trails 7:20 pace
Tuesday: 13.2 miles (7.3 miles 7:50 pace am, pm: 5.9 7:30 pace on roads around town).
Wednesday: 14.2 miles on road and trail 6:50 pace
Thursday: 14 (7.5 miles on roads 7:40 pace am, pm: 6.25 miles, with 3 x 2km reps on the treadmill around 5:30 pace)..
Friday: 11.1 miles (am 4.1 miles 6:16 pace, pm: 7 miles 8+ pace on local roads)
Saturday: am: 2 mile warm up, adrenalin 5k, 2.5 mile cool down. 16:35 ish for the 5k.. slowed in mile 2 but went off way to quick.. at the end of a 100+ mile week so expected to be tired. First race in nearly 4 months so low 16's or sub 16 should be achievable over the summer. pm: 7.5 miles on road.
Sunday: 14.2 miles 7;50 pace on roads and trails, pretty tired but free bar also took its toll...
101 miles for the week and a good chunk of quality..
In reply to Nick Russell:
I am bud, cheers for asking.
M-Board session. Slowly ticking off the board problems and adding some of my own. Finished with lap of the yellows and core.
T-Rest
W-Same as Monday
T- 8.5mile run @ about 7min/mile.
F-Same as Monday
S-Rest
S-Robin Hood's Stride. I did 4 7A's. Super windy so didn't try Big Alq or Ben's Wall. Next time!
I am bud, cheers for asking.
M-Board session. Slowly ticking off the board problems and adding some of my own. Finished with lap of the yellows and core.
T-Rest
W-Same as Monday
T- 8.5mile run @ about 7min/mile.
F-Same as Monday
S-Rest
S-Robin Hood's Stride. I did 4 7A's. Super windy so didn't try Big Alq or Ben's Wall. Next time!
In reply to Nick Russell:
brief summary from last week:
6x cardio.. (5 x intervals on bike in gym, 1x hill blasts over in the dales post malham session... felt ace!!)
2x weights session inc usual pull ups
5x core (15 mins workouts added onto gym sessions)
2x malham sessions- promising... made long links on TR on baboo...including link through and slightly beyond crux. got to be looking at leading it again next session.. before i get psyched out by it. new Beta at the start (shared with new dawn) which is making gaining the rest ledge more consistent.. the dyno was very marginal and painful on fingers.. (before this the footwork once i've gained the massive useless undercut feels super marginal... think it always will.. but generally I feel very solid and strong on the start). conditions very good.. tufa at end of the easy traverse was soaking.. need to whach a towel behind it to avoid having to dry my hands off.. and reckon i'd make links up to the crux
1x kendal - endurance session.. average
this week.. i need to start indoor bouldering again... and also start going to stockport wall for route sessions. try and get to malham at least once
PPG
brief summary from last week:
6x cardio.. (5 x intervals on bike in gym, 1x hill blasts over in the dales post malham session... felt ace!!)
2x weights session inc usual pull ups
5x core (15 mins workouts added onto gym sessions)
2x malham sessions- promising... made long links on TR on baboo...including link through and slightly beyond crux. got to be looking at leading it again next session.. before i get psyched out by it. new Beta at the start (shared with new dawn) which is making gaining the rest ledge more consistent.. the dyno was very marginal and painful on fingers.. (before this the footwork once i've gained the massive useless undercut feels super marginal... think it always will.. but generally I feel very solid and strong on the start). conditions very good.. tufa at end of the easy traverse was soaking.. need to whach a towel behind it to avoid having to dry my hands off.. and reckon i'd make links up to the crux
1x kendal - endurance session.. average
this week.. i need to start indoor bouldering again... and also start going to stockport wall for route sessions. try and get to malham at least once
PPG
In reply to Nick Russell: Cheer Nick!
A rest week for me this week. After feeling wiped out towards the end of last week I felt some rest was needed, hopefully it will do my climbing some good this coming week!
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Night session at Pantymwyn
Fell off the last "hard" move on Firestarter (7A) 3 times, powering out! Really close now, everyone finds this move easy as it's past the crux but I've never found a good way of doing it. Heading back this Tuesday to finish it off!
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Got out in the mountains in the amazing weather.
Did Roadside Arete (6C) and Cross Section (6B) at the Cromlech boulders.
Headed over to the Pac Man Boulders and did the classic Pac Man Arete (6C) and Karma Sutra (6C) in the evening light. Both some good anti-syle ticks for me (Slopers). Not a crimp in sight! Brilliant spot and great problems.
Friday: Rest/Family Holiday
Saturday: Rest/Family Holiday
Sunday: Rest/Family Holiday
A rest week for me this week. After feeling wiped out towards the end of last week I felt some rest was needed, hopefully it will do my climbing some good this coming week!
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Night session at Pantymwyn
Fell off the last "hard" move on Firestarter (7A) 3 times, powering out! Really close now, everyone finds this move easy as it's past the crux but I've never found a good way of doing it. Heading back this Tuesday to finish it off!
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Got out in the mountains in the amazing weather.
Did Roadside Arete (6C) and Cross Section (6B) at the Cromlech boulders.
Headed over to the Pac Man Boulders and did the classic Pac Man Arete (6C) and Karma Sutra (6C) in the evening light. Both some good anti-syle ticks for me (Slopers). Not a crimp in sight! Brilliant spot and great problems.
Friday: Rest/Family Holiday
Saturday: Rest/Family Holiday
Sunday: Rest/Family Holiday
In reply to AJM:
No, I haven't been on it yet, and it's not looking like I'll get there this week. I definitely intend to have a go at Circus Circus too, but VofB seemed like a good start precisely because it's low in the grade!
I'll let you know if I'm on Everyday lives, some beta could be useful.
No, I haven't been on it yet, and it's not looking like I'll get there this week. I definitely intend to have a go at Circus Circus too, but VofB seemed like a good start precisely because it's low in the grade!
I'll let you know if I'm on Everyday lives, some beta could be useful.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing this weeks.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs (fail). Represent county at the Inter-counties XC (fail).
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays (tick). Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
M: left foot sore under 2nd smallest toe. am: gym, bike 40mins, 1x Glute set. pm: offroad run (had to finish in the dark with a headtorch) 10/11M in 73:04
Tu: lunchtime: gym, bike 40mins + stretching. pm: 8/9M road in 56:05
W: tired due to poor sleep. pm: Run session 11/12M total including 1/2,1,2,3,4,5,4,3,2,1,1/2 min @ 10K pace off half rep recovery felt quite good.
Th: lunchtime: 8/9M offroad loop in 54:22 pm: gym, bike 40mins + 1x giant set, 1 x leg set + some foam rolling
F: woke up to bad nerve pain in my right lower back + tired. pm: river loop in 55:06 8M. lots of stretching to sort out nerve pain.
Sa: V.tired but nerve pain much better. am: 5M easy in 35:41 + strides
Su: nerve pain gone. South of England 12 Stage Road Relays. Glorius sunny day in Milton Keynes for the 12 stage. Our team wasn't looking too strong due to missing a couple and a couple of inevitable last minute dropouts! The mens race is 12 legs alternating 6 x 5.05K and 6 x 7.66K on a pretty undulating course. Most teams had strong runners out with olympians Chris Thompson, Scott Overall and Paul Pollock running. Although we managed to hold 2nd position on leg 6 by the time I started on leg 9 we had slipped back to 3rd. I knew the guy I was chasing was quicker than me so the main focus was to run relaxed and try to run my own race hopefully holding off quicker guys starting after me. By this stage the gaps are quite big so I didn't see anyone else apart from runners who were getting lapped they gave me something to focus on. I think I paced it ok but was pretty disappointed to have run so slowly when I crossed the line in 25:12 (roughly 32:45 10K pace) having held onto 3rd place 10/11M total with warm-up/down. Sadly we fadly back to 4th and so missed the medals on the day. On the plus side I was 2nd fastest long leg for the team (just!) and was inside the top 50 fastest long legs on the day. To show the gulf in class Chris Thompson broke the course record putting just over 2:30 into me over less than 5 miles! It was awesome watching him run round!
Overall 64M for the week so mileage getting back up to the right level. Ankle is improving slowly and not too bad after race. Really busy at work so been really tired which has affected my training. Shame we didn't medal but we qualified for the national relays in a few weeks time where hopefully we'll have a stronger team!
Thanks for doing this weeks.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs (fail). Represent county at the Inter-counties XC (fail).
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays (tick). Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
M: left foot sore under 2nd smallest toe. am: gym, bike 40mins, 1x Glute set. pm: offroad run (had to finish in the dark with a headtorch) 10/11M in 73:04
Tu: lunchtime: gym, bike 40mins + stretching. pm: 8/9M road in 56:05
W: tired due to poor sleep. pm: Run session 11/12M total including 1/2,1,2,3,4,5,4,3,2,1,1/2 min @ 10K pace off half rep recovery felt quite good.
Th: lunchtime: 8/9M offroad loop in 54:22 pm: gym, bike 40mins + 1x giant set, 1 x leg set + some foam rolling
F: woke up to bad nerve pain in my right lower back + tired. pm: river loop in 55:06 8M. lots of stretching to sort out nerve pain.
Sa: V.tired but nerve pain much better. am: 5M easy in 35:41 + strides
Su: nerve pain gone. South of England 12 Stage Road Relays. Glorius sunny day in Milton Keynes for the 12 stage. Our team wasn't looking too strong due to missing a couple and a couple of inevitable last minute dropouts! The mens race is 12 legs alternating 6 x 5.05K and 6 x 7.66K on a pretty undulating course. Most teams had strong runners out with olympians Chris Thompson, Scott Overall and Paul Pollock running. Although we managed to hold 2nd position on leg 6 by the time I started on leg 9 we had slipped back to 3rd. I knew the guy I was chasing was quicker than me so the main focus was to run relaxed and try to run my own race hopefully holding off quicker guys starting after me. By this stage the gaps are quite big so I didn't see anyone else apart from runners who were getting lapped they gave me something to focus on. I think I paced it ok but was pretty disappointed to have run so slowly when I crossed the line in 25:12 (roughly 32:45 10K pace) having held onto 3rd place 10/11M total with warm-up/down. Sadly we fadly back to 4th and so missed the medals on the day. On the plus side I was 2nd fastest long leg for the team (just!) and was inside the top 50 fastest long legs on the day. To show the gulf in class Chris Thompson broke the course record putting just over 2:30 into me over less than 5 miles! It was awesome watching him run round!
Overall 64M for the week so mileage getting back up to the right level. Ankle is improving slowly and not too bad after race. Really busy at work so been really tired which has affected my training. Shame we didn't medal but we qualified for the national relays in a few weeks time where hopefully we'll have a stronger team!
In reply to Humperdink:
Thanks Nick. Good luck for Sunday .
STG: green 7b and black 7a+ at Kendal, try leading something at Malham, do the Depot comp circuit.
MTG: 7a or quick 7b in Turkey and France
LTG: trad, glorious trad.
Mon: cycle commute to work. 29km, 486m ascent. Core and back.
Tues: boulderUK, ticked another "V6" which was even easier than the last one: V4.
Weds am: 5 x 4 min hill reps. 370m ascent in total. Lordy that's hard work.
Weds pm: Malham, TRed Consenting Adults and FEE.
Thurs: Bowland fell run. Recce for race route. 8.6km, 343m ascent 7.30/km.
Fri: Kendal wall, laps and trying the green and black.
Sat: Trail run from Coniston to old man and Wetherlam. 23.9km, 1,219m ascent. 10.31/km.
Sun: Sick, projectile vomiting. Yuck.
I actually thought I might want to try redpointing Free and Even Easier when I was at Malham on Wednesday. Might try it, should be there on Wednesday and Friday this week.
Thanks Nick. Good luck for Sunday .
STG: green 7b and black 7a+ at Kendal, try leading something at Malham, do the Depot comp circuit.
MTG: 7a or quick 7b in Turkey and France
LTG: trad, glorious trad.
Mon: cycle commute to work. 29km, 486m ascent. Core and back.
Tues: boulderUK, ticked another "V6" which was even easier than the last one: V4.
Weds am: 5 x 4 min hill reps. 370m ascent in total. Lordy that's hard work.
Weds pm: Malham, TRed Consenting Adults and FEE.
Thurs: Bowland fell run. Recce for race route. 8.6km, 343m ascent 7.30/km.
Fri: Kendal wall, laps and trying the green and black.
Sat: Trail run from Coniston to old man and Wetherlam. 23.9km, 1,219m ascent. 10.31/km.
Sun: Sick, projectile vomiting. Yuck.
I actually thought I might want to try redpointing Free and Even Easier when I was at Malham on Wednesday. Might try it, should be there on Wednesday and Friday this week.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Sounds like some very good links there PPG.
With the start. Can you cam your fingers in the undercut to get a bit more out of it whilst moving your feet?
Sounds like some very good links there PPG.
With the start. Can you cam your fingers in the undercut to get a bit more out of it whilst moving your feet?
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing fit club - no winter climbnig this week as working when it was good and free when it was warm. Hoping it cools for next Sunday
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm: 45min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 1hr 30 PE at cave, working on sequences on the yellow L - R traverse, 7a wall grade but probably 7b(+?) real world.
W: am: 1hr fell run
T: pm: 40min continual dry tooling. Very good work out, hoping against hope I get a last opportunity to put myself in the right place at the right time this winter.
F: pm: 1hr 30min power endurance at wall, yellow L - R again
S: -
S: am: 2hrs Endurance on Red Wall, Trowbarrow - Reps on Limestone John, E3 5c, then a play on Exeguy. pm: 2hrs easy mtb chacing my boys around the blue, with bits of red, as Gisburn
Weight this morning (still) 11st 9lb
Good week training again, and gained some motivation which resulted in / was the cause of a change in goals, (not sure which way round.)
Still keen to get a VI 7 by the end of the winter, but reality is we probably wont see good mixed conditions again this year so it will need to wait. Lesson learnt is that I need to get on it AS SOON as we have conditions in the Autumn to give myself the maximum number of opportunities to match real life, (and so the opportunities I have to climb,) with conditions.
Ditched HP'ing E6 this Spring. Blow Out is on the Main Wall at Trowbarrow and there is now a request not to top rope on this wall, (my understanding was it was previously no abseiling to deter groups.) No real issue as I felt I was going through the motions with this.
I also had another go on Exeguy and can now do all but one of the moves. Personally I think the grading for it on here is harsh - it feels like solid British 6b for a few moves to me - certainly harder than the other routes with 6a climbing on them I've been on in the quarry and the two I've led with, (admittedly soft,) 6b climbing on them. I am really motivated to keep chipping away at this and have even found a seqence of moves at the wall, (2 boulder problems on the 45degree woody followed straight away by a pumpy traverse on large flat holds,) that replecates the fitness needed.
And to complete it my mate wants to have a go at HPing Asylum which being just off vertical fingery climbing plays to my strength, (strength being a relative term,) so doing this with him seems a good idea as it's a great looking route.
Sorry for the essay, but as much for my own benefit in crystalising what I'm doing really.
Thanks for doing fit club - no winter climbnig this week as working when it was good and free when it was warm. Hoping it cools for next Sunday
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done)
Winter training: Build PE then E. Weight down to 11st ish
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm: 45min fell run, 40min antagonistic weights and core
T: pm: 1hr 30 PE at cave, working on sequences on the yellow L - R traverse, 7a wall grade but probably 7b(+?) real world.
W: am: 1hr fell run
T: pm: 40min continual dry tooling. Very good work out, hoping against hope I get a last opportunity to put myself in the right place at the right time this winter.
F: pm: 1hr 30min power endurance at wall, yellow L - R again
S: -
S: am: 2hrs Endurance on Red Wall, Trowbarrow - Reps on Limestone John, E3 5c, then a play on Exeguy. pm: 2hrs easy mtb chacing my boys around the blue, with bits of red, as Gisburn
Weight this morning (still) 11st 9lb
Good week training again, and gained some motivation which resulted in / was the cause of a change in goals, (not sure which way round.)
Still keen to get a VI 7 by the end of the winter, but reality is we probably wont see good mixed conditions again this year so it will need to wait. Lesson learnt is that I need to get on it AS SOON as we have conditions in the Autumn to give myself the maximum number of opportunities to match real life, (and so the opportunities I have to climb,) with conditions.
Ditched HP'ing E6 this Spring. Blow Out is on the Main Wall at Trowbarrow and there is now a request not to top rope on this wall, (my understanding was it was previously no abseiling to deter groups.) No real issue as I felt I was going through the motions with this.
I also had another go on Exeguy and can now do all but one of the moves. Personally I think the grading for it on here is harsh - it feels like solid British 6b for a few moves to me - certainly harder than the other routes with 6a climbing on them I've been on in the quarry and the two I've led with, (admittedly soft,) 6b climbing on them. I am really motivated to keep chipping away at this and have even found a seqence of moves at the wall, (2 boulder problems on the 45degree woody followed straight away by a pumpy traverse on large flat holds,) that replecates the fitness needed.
And to complete it my mate wants to have a go at HPing Asylum which being just off vertical fingery climbing plays to my strength, (strength being a relative term,) so doing this with him seems a good idea as it's a great looking route.
Sorry for the essay, but as much for my own benefit in crystalising what I'm doing really.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Back on Fisheye this weekend. Mixed bag – was getting much too pumped initially, but then made a new high point getting into the crux. Didn’t manage my aim of doing it in 3 though. Split a tip and couldn’t do top wall with tape on.
Fisheye breakdown:
15m of ~6a to start of difficulties.
Soft 7c, ~20 moves to a kneebar shakeout.
First crux is about 6C/+ and leads into a pumpy traverse into a marginal kneebar rest. A couple of long locks and a few more moves lead you to the main crux. 8a/+ ish, ~50moves to here – my current high-point.
Main crux is 15moves of 6C+/7A (including skipping a clip) to the “rail” (8b/+ to here as a link?)
Awkward move to leave the rail and a wee run-out to a good rest.
Headwall consists of 15m of less steep, but much more technical climbing on edges and pockets to the final crux.
Headwall crux is ~7A on two tiny pockets and a massive rock-over to crimps. 5m of easy glory climbing takes you to the top.
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter (I expect today’s low weight is a blip courtesy of airline dehydration and missing dinner)
- 75.1kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Resolve hip/groin issue – weird pain and hobbling after climbing.
- Get pumped, and practice shaking out. Need to slow down indoor climbing to replicate outdoor style
The week just gone:
S - Cave up to 7C (7B+?), attempted 7C (7C+) couple of times. Tried Cold Blood lots which meant 4 laps of The Bloods. Worked it out, but with dropping power levels couldn’t do the deed. Then some 7A stuff near The Box. Mr Whippy is the living end!
S - Dinbren. 6c warm-up felt pumpy. Tried a short 7c+/8a. Best go falling going for easy ground. Tweaked beta but couldn’t get back to the final moves. Spied a project too. Need a belayer this week – anyone keen for a ‘bren session?
M - Foot-on campus. Max effort 2min 20s. Need someone to shout at me when doing the next session to really see if I’m making gains.
T - 4th day on. Probably shouldn’t have climbed. Dropped the grade and tried to make it a recovery session.
W - Rest.
T - Rest. Working in London, then flight to Barcelona. Arrived at accommodation at 0130.
F - Oliana. 2x 7a warm-up, then on two trips up Fisheye. Moves felt easier than last time, but getting pumped.
S - 6am start for morning session on Fisheye before sun got too hot. Progress on headwall crux, but split a tip. Back in the evening for another session; linked from deck to main crux with better pacing (could still be more efficient though).
S - On-sighting at Figols. Needed Vit I & lots of caffeine to get going. 6 tie-in upto 7b+ RP. Annoyed not to manage 7b+ OS.
Back on Fisheye this weekend. Mixed bag – was getting much too pumped initially, but then made a new high point getting into the crux. Didn’t manage my aim of doing it in 3 though. Split a tip and couldn’t do top wall with tape on.
Fisheye breakdown:
15m of ~6a to start of difficulties.
Soft 7c, ~20 moves to a kneebar shakeout.
First crux is about 6C/+ and leads into a pumpy traverse into a marginal kneebar rest. A couple of long locks and a few more moves lead you to the main crux. 8a/+ ish, ~50moves to here – my current high-point.
Main crux is 15moves of 6C+/7A (including skipping a clip) to the “rail” (8b/+ to here as a link?)
Awkward move to leave the rail and a wee run-out to a good rest.
Headwall consists of 15m of less steep, but much more technical climbing on edges and pockets to the final crux.
Headwall crux is ~7A on two tiny pockets and a massive rock-over to crimps. 5m of easy glory climbing takes you to the top.
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter (I expect today’s low weight is a blip courtesy of airline dehydration and missing dinner)
- 75.1kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Resolve hip/groin issue – weird pain and hobbling after climbing.
- Get pumped, and practice shaking out. Need to slow down indoor climbing to replicate outdoor style
The week just gone:
S - Cave up to 7C (7B+?), attempted 7C (7C+) couple of times. Tried Cold Blood lots which meant 4 laps of The Bloods. Worked it out, but with dropping power levels couldn’t do the deed. Then some 7A stuff near The Box. Mr Whippy is the living end!
S - Dinbren. 6c warm-up felt pumpy. Tried a short 7c+/8a. Best go falling going for easy ground. Tweaked beta but couldn’t get back to the final moves. Spied a project too. Need a belayer this week – anyone keen for a ‘bren session?
M - Foot-on campus. Max effort 2min 20s. Need someone to shout at me when doing the next session to really see if I’m making gains.
T - 4th day on. Probably shouldn’t have climbed. Dropped the grade and tried to make it a recovery session.
W - Rest.
T - Rest. Working in London, then flight to Barcelona. Arrived at accommodation at 0130.
F - Oliana. 2x 7a warm-up, then on two trips up Fisheye. Moves felt easier than last time, but getting pumped.
S - 6am start for morning session on Fisheye before sun got too hot. Progress on headwall crux, but split a tip. Back in the evening for another session; linked from deck to main crux with better pacing (could still be more efficient though).
S - On-sighting at Figols. Needed Vit I & lots of caffeine to get going. 6 tie-in upto 7b+ RP. Annoyed not to manage 7b+ OS.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Nick, just a thought if you want a light day. I could be around on Weds afternoon (or Thurs afternoon but weather looks poor) if you fancied a play on some of the stuff at New Quarry? Not sure if you have climbed there before, but it is an experience - quite a lot of sports routes, none of them a pushover due to the weird slopiness of the holds. Could get some interesting stuff done in a 1/2 day slot though.
Nick, just a thought if you want a light day. I could be around on Weds afternoon (or Thurs afternoon but weather looks poor) if you fancied a play on some of the stuff at New Quarry? Not sure if you have climbed there before, but it is an experience - quite a lot of sports routes, none of them a pushover due to the weird slopiness of the holds. Could get some interesting stuff done in a 1/2 day slot though.
In reply to Ally Smith:
hiya... i need to get familiar with the head wall again... the footwork is so subtle for me because of my height as i'm not using the mre obvious foot holds
i haven't thought about trying that with my fingers and that wouldn't be my usually approach as i'd be worried about ragging them off if i fell!... i sort of feel a bit spread eagled before i make the next move with my feet// right hand on undercut... left hand on shallow pinch (short arse version.. rather than undercut to undercut) right foot in pocket on tufa.. left foot on tiny noble out wide ... i was wondering if i should try crimping on that crap hold above the undercut to try and steady myself better as i step thrpugh with my left foot... i'll experiment this week.
have you got any beta for the section between the ledge and the last bolt before the traverse right?.. i'm using the flake, then a crimp with the right hand then a tiny fingertip undercut with the left hand.. right foot on edge of flake.. high step with left.. then shallow /thin/crap side pull left hand.. throw for the good pocket at bottom of tufa with my right hand... it's well cheeky.. and i'm sure there's an easier way.
hiya... i need to get familiar with the head wall again... the footwork is so subtle for me because of my height as i'm not using the mre obvious foot holds
i haven't thought about trying that with my fingers and that wouldn't be my usually approach as i'd be worried about ragging them off if i fell!... i sort of feel a bit spread eagled before i make the next move with my feet// right hand on undercut... left hand on shallow pinch (short arse version.. rather than undercut to undercut) right foot in pocket on tufa.. left foot on tiny noble out wide ... i was wondering if i should try crimping on that crap hold above the undercut to try and steady myself better as i step thrpugh with my left foot... i'll experiment this week.
have you got any beta for the section between the ledge and the last bolt before the traverse right?.. i'm using the flake, then a crimp with the right hand then a tiny fingertip undercut with the left hand.. right foot on edge of flake.. high step with left.. then shallow /thin/crap side pull left hand.. throw for the good pocket at bottom of tufa with my right hand... it's well cheeky.. and i'm sure there's an easier way.
In reply to pork pie girl:
You're right in saying there's an easy way for that section. However, i'm sorry to say that i can't remember the specifics. One way felt fairly full-power, and the other steady away.
I might be about on Yorkshire lime on sunday - depends on stag do hangover - and would like to get back on New Dawn for some stamina training, so i might be able to offer beta after that?
You're right in saying there's an easy way for that section. However, i'm sorry to say that i can't remember the specifics. One way felt fairly full-power, and the other steady away.
I might be about on Yorkshire lime on sunday - depends on stag do hangover - and would like to get back on New Dawn for some stamina training, so i might be able to offer beta after that?
In reply to hms:
Yeah, Wednesday afternoon is a possibility for me. Not really managed to get excited about the bolted routes in New Quarry, but I'd by happy to give them a go.
Yeah, Wednesday afternoon is a possibility for me. Not really managed to get excited about the bolted routes in New Quarry, but I'd by happy to give them a go.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, no progress on Vulcan this week, I decided to impose a (mostly) rest week for various reasons.
So, Monday I went down to see Nina the physio, she was fantastic and has loaded me up with all sorts of new exercises and stretches which i'm really hopeful about. She thinks I have bicep tendinosis most likely brought on by tightness in the shoulders and lats making me overuse the bicep. I've bought a foam roller for torturing the lats (it's agony) and gym rings for adding some more shoulder stability and I have a whole new spreadsheet full of exercises, i'm really keen to see what kind of results I can get.
The session wasn't just a 'fire-and-forget' thing either, she is following up with emails, i've already sent her a couple of videos so she can check my technique on certain moves, it all seems very positive. The best part was that she is keen for me to continue climbing, keep training, even carry on using the fingerboard, as I was worried she might impose a ban on all strenuous activity.
It was a long day though, left Southampton at 5am, got to Gaydon by 7, full days work followed by driving to Bristol for 7.30pm and back to Gaydon by about 11.30pm. This wiped me out, and Tuesday was mostly spent doing my best impression of a zombie.
I climbed Wednesday, didn't do any roped climbing so didn't get a chance to try the 7b again, but I did make some good progress on an 11 move V8 that I managed to link 3/4 of. All this bouldering aggravated a finger though, it was fine in the session but really achey the next day and is still a bit tender now so I decided to rest the remainder of the week as I want the finger strong for Font which is only 4 weeks away now.
No climbing at the weekend, despite the fantastic weather, but I did spend a lot of time working on my car. Normally a bit of spannering is a prime candidate to make my elbows flare up, but after only a couple of my new exercise/stretching sessions, I had no issues whatsoever over two days of hard graft (and it was pretty heavy going, engine out and back in). It could be because I had a mostly easy week up until then, but i'll still take it as a win.
Back on it this week, depending on the finger, but i'll just do aerocap if it's still tweaky.
Thanks Nick, no progress on Vulcan this week, I decided to impose a (mostly) rest week for various reasons.
So, Monday I went down to see Nina the physio, she was fantastic and has loaded me up with all sorts of new exercises and stretches which i'm really hopeful about. She thinks I have bicep tendinosis most likely brought on by tightness in the shoulders and lats making me overuse the bicep. I've bought a foam roller for torturing the lats (it's agony) and gym rings for adding some more shoulder stability and I have a whole new spreadsheet full of exercises, i'm really keen to see what kind of results I can get.
The session wasn't just a 'fire-and-forget' thing either, she is following up with emails, i've already sent her a couple of videos so she can check my technique on certain moves, it all seems very positive. The best part was that she is keen for me to continue climbing, keep training, even carry on using the fingerboard, as I was worried she might impose a ban on all strenuous activity.
It was a long day though, left Southampton at 5am, got to Gaydon by 7, full days work followed by driving to Bristol for 7.30pm and back to Gaydon by about 11.30pm. This wiped me out, and Tuesday was mostly spent doing my best impression of a zombie.
I climbed Wednesday, didn't do any roped climbing so didn't get a chance to try the 7b again, but I did make some good progress on an 11 move V8 that I managed to link 3/4 of. All this bouldering aggravated a finger though, it was fine in the session but really achey the next day and is still a bit tender now so I decided to rest the remainder of the week as I want the finger strong for Font which is only 4 weeks away now.
No climbing at the weekend, despite the fantastic weather, but I did spend a lot of time working on my car. Normally a bit of spannering is a prime candidate to make my elbows flare up, but after only a couple of my new exercise/stretching sessions, I had no issues whatsoever over two days of hard graft (and it was pretty heavy going, engine out and back in). It could be because I had a mostly easy week up until then, but i'll still take it as a win.
Back on it this week, depending on the finger, but i'll just do aerocap if it's still tweaky.
In reply to Nick Russell:
they are character building, I have found! Assume that means they must be good for me. I can be there from 2.30pm if that would be ok.
they are character building, I have found! Assume that means they must be good for me. I can be there from 2.30pm if that would be ok.
In reply to hms:
I briefly posted on here and occasionally have a look back in, so noticed your post.
I'm out climbing most weekends and occasionally in the week too depending on work, or can bunk of work early once the daylight draws out. If you want to get out at some point then let me know - i am on a mission this year to get projects, which I have had for years, actually completed, so will be getting out as much as possible. Oh, and we have met before on many occasions at UCR, just in case you don't recognize me by my profile pic!
I briefly posted on here and occasionally have a look back in, so noticed your post.
I'm out climbing most weekends and occasionally in the week too depending on work, or can bunk of work early once the daylight draws out. If you want to get out at some point then let me know - i am on a mission this year to get projects, which I have had for years, actually completed, so will be getting out as much as possible. Oh, and we have met before on many occasions at UCR, just in case you don't recognize me by my profile pic!
In reply to Ally Smith:
yeah.. the way i'm doing it feels quite intense
i'll send you my mobile number via facebook re sunday.. not sure what my plans are yet
yeah.. the way i'm doing it feels quite intense
i'll send you my mobile number via facebook re sunday.. not sure what my plans are yet
In reply to Garrouli:
If the Bristol people are free mid-week over the next week or so, please let me know I'm keen to get out and have several leave days I need to take before the end of the month.
If the Bristol people are free mid-week over the next week or so, please let me know I'm keen to get out and have several leave days I need to take before the end of the month.
In reply to mattrm:
Next Wednesday could be a possibility for me - where were you interested in heading?
Next Wednesday could be a possibility for me - where were you interested in heading?
In reply to Nick Russell:
>mbh - Nothing to report, except for a 20 mile, hilly, off-road, muddy race. Getting back into it this week now you’ve shaken the cold?
No, in fact I have hit a bit of a low.
I did try a run on Saturday, but the heel pain was very sharp almost immediately and I gave up straight away.
50+ mile weeks seem to belong to another age now.
On the up side, I know they can return again and that all is not lost. I have been furiously under-arm-roller balling the base of my foot, so it smells nice, at least, and if things don't improve pronto, I will see someone about it.
>mbh - Nothing to report, except for a 20 mile, hilly, off-road, muddy race. Getting back into it this week now you’ve shaken the cold?
No, in fact I have hit a bit of a low.
I did try a run on Saturday, but the heel pain was very sharp almost immediately and I gave up straight away.
50+ mile weeks seem to belong to another age now.
On the up side, I know they can return again and that all is not lost. I have been furiously under-arm-roller balling the base of my foot, so it smells nice, at least, and if things don't improve pronto, I will see someone about it.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Fair enough!
Votb is very good also, long move in the middle.
For circus circus, it's probably easiest to use the peg to place a wire on a long extender and just use that on redpoint. Keeps the rope out of your way. And if you never get beyond the crux in any given session the easiest way to strip it is to go down to the top staple and thread it rather than to trad to the top and lower from there.
Fair enough!
Votb is very good also, long move in the middle.
For circus circus, it's probably easiest to use the peg to place a wire on a long extender and just use that on redpoint. Keeps the rope out of your way. And if you never get beyond the crux in any given session the easiest way to strip it is to go down to the top staple and thread it rather than to trad to the top and lower from there.
In reply to mbh:
You tried rolling with something frozen? Tip a physio gave me once and they do sell rolling pins for pastry that you can fill with water and freeze but I'm sure you could find an adequate substitute.
You tried rolling with something frozen? Tip a physio gave me once and they do sell rolling pins for pastry that you can fill with water and freeze but I'm sure you could find an adequate substitute.
In reply to Nick Russell:
It's been about 6 weeks since I did one of these, I've not bothered as I've been sort of injured but it's time to baseline as I intend to ramp things up again so I need to be able to look back on where I started from. So a bit of narrative...
I've not been entirely sedentary, I've done a coupe of weekends skiing and a trip to the Ben. I've been for one run up Whittle Hill but turned back at Waughs Well despite walk 40% of the uphill.
I've kept going indoors all this time but only a couple of times per week, finger still giving me jip. One trip to Malham but only tried the upper half of my project which I did link in one despite the cold. Didn't have a other go.
This week I intend to get properly pumped at least twice and then to go Malham.
It's been about 6 weeks since I did one of these, I've not bothered as I've been sort of injured but it's time to baseline as I intend to ramp things up again so I need to be able to look back on where I started from. So a bit of narrative...
I've not been entirely sedentary, I've done a coupe of weekends skiing and a trip to the Ben. I've been for one run up Whittle Hill but turned back at Waughs Well despite walk 40% of the uphill.
I've kept going indoors all this time but only a couple of times per week, finger still giving me jip. One trip to Malham but only tried the upper half of my project which I did link in one despite the cold. Didn't have a other go.
This week I intend to get properly pumped at least twice and then to go Malham.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers for doing the thread Nick. Missed last week so double update for me.
Mon - Short campus and boulder.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Boulder. Lots of volume up to V3/4.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Relearning moves on project. No progress.
Sun - Cuttings. Ditto except with sorer skin.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Campus, did 1-4-5 for the first time. Tried V6 project a bit. Messed around on board but still feeling a bit tired from the weekend.
Wedns - Wall insanely busy. For want of anything better to do got back on my project and somehow ticked it: first proper V6
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Back on project.
Sun - Cuttings. Agonisingly slow progress. Had just about decided to sack it off for now, go away and get stronger, then made a minimal amount of progress and felt enthusiastic again...
Cheers for doing the thread Nick. Missed last week so double update for me.
Mon - Short campus and boulder.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Boulder. Lots of volume up to V3/4.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Relearning moves on project. No progress.
Sun - Cuttings. Ditto except with sorer skin.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Campus, did 1-4-5 for the first time. Tried V6 project a bit. Messed around on board but still feeling a bit tired from the weekend.
Wedns - Wall insanely busy. For want of anything better to do got back on my project and somehow ticked it: first proper V6
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Back on project.
Sun - Cuttings. Agonisingly slow progress. Had just about decided to sack it off for now, go away and get stronger, then made a minimal amount of progress and felt enthusiastic again...
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing this Nick.
STG: complete current project.
MTG: consolidate on 7a/7a+
LTG: red-point 7b+
Been back in Blighty for 10 days or so. Mostly spent time stuffing myself with takeaway food of every possible variety. So digestive system getting lots of exercise. Also got to local walls a few times.
M - Nothing.
T - Session at highball bouldering, Norwich. Nice cakes.
W - Nothing.
T - Session at The Cragg, Stowmarket. Insane grading.
F - Nothing.
S - Session at The Cragg.
S - 5 hours sitting on a plane.
Hopefully back on project next week psyched.
Thanks for doing this Nick.
STG: complete current project.
MTG: consolidate on 7a/7a+
LTG: red-point 7b+
Been back in Blighty for 10 days or so. Mostly spent time stuffing myself with takeaway food of every possible variety. So digestive system getting lots of exercise. Also got to local walls a few times.
M - Nothing.
T - Session at highball bouldering, Norwich. Nice cakes.
W - Nothing.
T - Session at The Cragg, Stowmarket. Insane grading.
F - Nothing.
S - Session at The Cragg.
S - 5 hours sitting on a plane.
Hopefully back on project next week psyched.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
cycle a bit - 1 poor ride fail
M: Away with work
T: away with work
W: 30 mins bouldering at holmfirth
T: rest?
F: Rokt comp. sore fingers. one tweek
S: cycled 5k bike was not working right
Gardoms followed by illness
S: ill
Next week Goals:
ride a couple of times
crap week
> grubes - Did you get out on your bike?
STG (February of 2013): Lead E2 try onsight
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Work out what I want to achieve this year and next in my climbing
Lose 8kg
MTG (June 2014):
complete my bike ride
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
Plan to climb UK/ireland visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man - may now be a trip to font and a metal festival in france.
LTG (End of 2014):
???
This week's goals:
cycle a bit - 1 poor ride fail
M: Away with work
T: away with work
W: 30 mins bouldering at holmfirth
T: rest?
F: Rokt comp. sore fingers. one tweek
S: cycled 5k bike was not working right
Gardoms followed by illness
S: ill
Next week Goals:
ride a couple of times
crap week
In reply to mrchewy:
No, I haven't, but I've got a short, 1.5 inch thick stainless steel bar. I could put that in the freezer and try it, I suppose. You need nitrogen cold to take the skin off, right? I'll find out, anyway.
Meanwhile, the roller ball bashing, the weather and getting my head in the right place seems to have had some effect. I went for a run yesterday, and another today, just short ones, and I didn't die.
> You tried rolling with something frozen? Tip a physio gave me once and they do sell rolling pins for pastry that you can fill with water and freeze but I'm sure you could find an adequate substitute.
No, I haven't, but I've got a short, 1.5 inch thick stainless steel bar. I could put that in the freezer and try it, I suppose. You need nitrogen cold to take the skin off, right? I'll find out, anyway.
Meanwhile, the roller ball bashing, the weather and getting my head in the right place seems to have had some effect. I went for a run yesterday, and another today, just short ones, and I didn't die.
In reply to mbh:
Glad to hear you're back in the running shoes and feeling a bit more positive! Effort. I'm just waiting for the ankles to get a bit better, maybe another week and I'm gonna start some gentle running again. It's been far too long.
Glad to hear you're back in the running shoes and feeling a bit more positive! Effort. I'm just waiting for the ankles to get a bit better, maybe another week and I'm gonna start some gentle running again. It's been far too long.
In reply to mbh:
Good effort! You'll soon be back into it
> the roller ball bashing, the weather and getting my head in the right place seems to have had some effect. I went for a run yesterday, and another today, just short ones, and I didn't die.
Good effort! You'll soon be back into it
In reply to Garrouli:
Have sent you an email, but I've got the car next Wednesday. So if the weather is ok, then I'm keen to get out.
Have sent you an email, but I've got the car next Wednesday. So if the weather is ok, then I'm keen to get out.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Getting there! Still breathing like Darth Vader and stamina feels a bit depleted after lurgy time but managed to survive enough to ski which was nice
M – TA training day
T – Rest
W – Bouldering Brookes. Not many routes in and massive recovery needed between but put together 3 blue circuit routes I haven’t managed before which was pleasing.
T – Rest
F – Skiing
S – Skiing
S – Skiing
Getting there! Still breathing like Darth Vader and stamina feels a bit depleted after lurgy time but managed to survive enough to ski which was nice
M – TA training day
T – Rest
W – Bouldering Brookes. Not many routes in and massive recovery needed between but put together 3 blue circuit routes I haven’t managed before which was pleasing.
T – Rest
F – Skiing
S – Skiing
S – Skiing
In reply to mbh:
I'd go and see someone as it hasn't improved much over a couple of weeks (even with my rubbish advice about the under-arm-roller!)
I'd go and see someone as it hasn't improved much over a couple of weeks (even with my rubbish advice about the under-arm-roller!)
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