In reply to kipper12:
Bit more detail about Marian Bach - climbed there 3 or 4 times.
The crag currently has thirteen routes from about 4+ to 6c(+), they are all well bolted and up to 12 – 14 M high. Not huge obviously, some routes have the odd loose bit at the start but decent climbing above; mostly the routes are in the 6a – 6b range with two 6c’s and three or four about 4+ - 5+, all the routes have stainless steel double lower offs apart from one which needs to be re-threaded and all are well bolted. The grades listed are based upon five or six visits to the crag by various Chester Mountaineering Club members and might be soft.
Crag is located at 288E 377N and the best approaches are;
1. Park as for Castle Inn and walk back down the road about 100M to a gate on the left leading down to what appears to be a ruined farm, go through the gate and down through the farm yard. Go through a second gate
(currently in poor condition!) to a grassy track, follow the track for a short distance and look for a footpath and small swing gate on the right. Follow this path through a small wood to a style, immediately before the style take a vague path on the right up to the crag, to arrive at the main bit at the bottom of route 4 below.
2. Park as for Castle Inn and walk back down the road past the gate to the farm and take the second road on the left past some houses and into a small industrial/commercial site. Walk between the two buildings at the end
and cross over a style on the left behind them. Follow a vague path to the right and keeping the hedgerow on your right side follow the path into the small wood, go over the style then take the vague path on the left up to
the crag, again arriving at route 4.
3. It is also possible to use the above approach (2) to arrive at the top of the crag; after going over the first style behind the buildings continue across the field up the small hill and look for a path down to bottom of the crag currently bit muddy due to sheep. Once over this you are at the extreme left of the crag and a path soon leads to the first route.
The routes are described from L to R and the names are currently unknown (except one). First ascents and development was done by Norman Clacher and Tony Shelmerdine. Crag can be vegetated but currently clean but needs traffic to keep this way. The rock at the start of a few of the routes should be treated carefully.
The routes;
The first route is well left of the main outcrop and is the last (first) clean area of rock encountered when facing the crag.
1. (4+/5) The first line of bolts on the left side of the crag is a short route with a detached looking pillar on its right. Probably the worst of the routes here.
About 20M right is a big roof close to the ground.
2. (Splat 6c/+) Technical low roof, the grade and name is Norman’s; as he was badly injured on this. The loose blocks have now gone but the start still does not look very appealing!
Right again about 15 – 20M is the main crag (approach path arrives here).
8
3. (5) On the main face of the crag, the right facing corner is very pleasant although brief and makes a good warm up.
4. (6C) The centre of the face through the big roof at top of crag involves contorting low down and technical/reachy climbing through roof.
5. (6b-) the next route immediately right shares a couple of bolts with the previous route, steep and slightly technical groove pumpy if you get it wrong.
6. (6a+/6b) The right arête looks intimidating but is easier than it appears, start directly below arête up left then right through steep bit. Shares a lower off and final bolt with next route, very photogenic.
The crag now turns 90deg with three routes on its sidewall.
7. (6a) The sidewall of the main crag has three routes; the left line on this side of this wall is not particularly good and shares a start with the next route.
8. (6b) Centre of wall very good avoiding right crack, quite technical on the right and probably 6c on the left. Have faith in holds appearing at the top! Excellent climbing and again very photogenic.
9. (5+) Right side of wall using cracks either side, enjoyable if you like limestone jamming!
A vegetated area of wall, with possible potential for the enthusiastic intervenes before the next three routes.
10. (5+/6a) Steep to start then very pleasant slabby upper wall.
11. (6b) Steep and technical groove in right arête (two bolts at top requires to re-tie).
12. (6a+/6b) Short wall up through overlap (very hard direct). Avoid the vegetated crack on the right and balance through the overlap cross the wall and use the left arête to climb the upper wall.
Past an overgrown buttress and about 30M left is the last route.
13. (5+) Furthest right up to left side of roof step right and climb wall direct. It looks unlikely at the grade but it’s all there.
There is unclimbed rock but it is all vegetated and will need thorough cleaning to put up new routes - lot of ivy covered buttresses right of the last route.
