UKC

Am looking to buy my first set of microwires - I mainly climb around Cornwall but am off to Yosemite this summer

Just looking for opinions on DMM IMPs vs BD microstoppers (and the BD offset microstoppers).

I've looked at the strength rating of RPs compared to BD microwire, but am told BD often fit better?

I've also heard the BD offset microwires have been usefull too.

I'd really appreciate some opinions from others

Thanks!

In reply to anon60521:
My opinion is, get a mixture. With micros, it's more important to get a really good fit on the placement. I have a selection of IMPs, brass offsets, BD micro stoppers and peanuts.

In reply to anon60521: I have used pretty much everything except the relatively new BD Offsets over many years and found that the DMM Brass Offsets are the best and most useful option by far. A full set of them are the only microwires currently on my rack.

However they are also possibly the most expensive and are perhaps better optimised for limestone and softer rocks than the newer BD Offsets.

I think you'd struggle to go too far wrong with set of either offset design.

Since you mention Yosemite you should check out the (US biased) reviews on Outdoor Gear Lab if you haven't already - http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Nut-Reviews/Black-Diamond-Offset-Mic...

I

In reply to anon60521:

I was also wondering about micro nuts, so hopefully this isn't too big a thread hijack - I'm looking at DMM's smaller offerings and wondering what the difference is between the Peenuts and the Micro Wallnuts.
Are the peenuts a little more specialised? I climb mainly on gneiss and granite at the moment, although my summer should be fairly varied, but would a complete set of one or the other be better for a wider variety of rock types?

In reply to DBoothroyd:

Peenuts are offset and micro wallnuts aren't. Peenuts are great, and mine have held several falls. I haven't used the micro walnuts as I was put off by the low kN rating.

In reply to anon60521:

I have the dmm offsets, they seat reassuringly most of the he time! Can't say I particularly miss the straight sides but then I don't own any. A lot of the small placements I find are pretty flared or funky.

In reply to DBoothroyd:

I have recently bought a set of DMM Peenuts, which I have used and taken one small fall on a number 2 (I placed the gear level with my shoulder before I fell off and it held)). I also bought a set of the micro wallnuts, but haven't actually used any of them - the strength rating does seem rather low, but overall they both seem well made and good quality.

This is a very good article that explains the advantages/disadvantages and strength ratings of different microwires:
http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Technical-Information/Micro-Nuts.html

Would people recommend putting a Yates screamer or equivalent (DMM Ripstop Shock Absorber) on some of the more marginal microwires?

Corin

In reply to anon60521:

I really rate the DMM Brass Offsets. My rack of micros consists of the 6 biggest size (the smallest one is completely pointless. I also have an IMP 2 and 3. I've also used BD Micro Stoppers, Peenuts and Micro rocks/wallnuts over the years but I don't think they are as good.

I rarely place the RP 2 and Offsets 1 and 2 but the bigger sizes get placed quite often.

The other things that are worth considering if you like wiggy wire placement are Wild Country Superlight Rocks. The three biggest sizes are best. Sizes 1, 2 and 3 are ok but the wires kink easily and I think brass offsets go in most places they do. I key holded a size six into a pocket on Debauchery yesterday. It was totally bomber and nothing else would fit in.

HTH

In reply to alooker:

^^^This^^^

And dont use just one, lace up any placement you need to