/ HVS/E1 recommendations Mendips

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Cheese Monkey - on 16 Mar 2014
Working Castle Cary way this week and there are a boggling amount of small crags in striking distance that I've not been to. Anything other than FCQ and Cheddar considered! Cheers :)
The Pylon King on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Dinder and Mells.

Both recently in process of being cleaned and checked for new guidebook so in good nick. Lots of short but greata litle routes.
Cheese Monkey - on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Beauty will check them out and clean some while I'm there. Did you get any more routes in at Goblin Coombe? Was me faffing on Gollum
Choss on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

You up for a pint tonight? Make it the George if you are?
Cheese Monkey - on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to Choss:

No mate not tonight I've been up for nearly 36 hours with 2 brief naps... Wednesday would be good though?
Choss on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

alright bud, well hook up for Drinks Wednesday :-)
The Pylon King on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Hi!

Yes Me and Brian did two more routes up at Eagle rock, the second in almost complete darkness with the moon rising! :)

I may be over Dinder this week.
Post edited at 21:59
Cheese Monkey - on 16 Mar 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Haha good effort! I had to go to work :(. Let me know if you need a belay or a hand this week I'm about in afternoons.
Cheese Monkey - on 17 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Maybe I was tired but everything I did at Mells today felt like a proper sandbag! Proper good rock and routes though. Lobbed off Picturesque repeatedly :(. Need to get back there, work out the crux in better light and put it to bed
The Pylon King on 17 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Brian (Bpmclimb) has been cleaning and checking it for the new guide so always worth checking his log notes or drop him a line.
Cheese Monkey - on 17 Mar 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Yeh his notes on Picturesque say potentially E2. I think a hard crux above micro wires is definitely worth E2!

Whole of Mells is clean, tidy, easy accessible and in great nick. Nipped a few tiny bits of vegetation here and there but well worth a visit.
The Pylon King on 17 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Yeah Brian cleaned it all up last year.
hms - on 17 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

The crux of that one has a slightly weird feeling & hard to trust foot placement, I seem to remember, although it was protected v well by a small cam (which I fell onto first time round). I found the psychological crux was then getting to the top as the climbing was pretty easy but the gear for the top 3rd was zero!

The middle E4 (Mells Wall) is perfectly do-able once you've got the sequence sussed.

On the next path-side bit of crag there is a fun but scary E2 - boulder problem off the floor then tricky headwall. Again, perfectly do-able with a bit of re-practise (and possibly a bouldering mat)

The Ivanator - on 18 Mar 2014
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

This looks interesting:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=224656 (Black Rock Corner)
Scoped it out on a walk a while back, not been back to climb it yet though.
Ian Butterworth - on 19 Mar 2014
In reply to The Ivanator:
There has been a lot of rock stabilisation and removal at Black Rock Quarry. All the routes have been climbed since the work was finished.
Ian Butterworth
BMC Access Rep for Somerset & Mendips
ads.ukclimbing.com
The Ivanator - on 19 Mar 2014
In reply to Ian Butterworth:

Good work and good to know - much of it had a fairly worrying look when I was last there. I will have to bite the bullet and give that corner a shot this year.

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