UKC

As in this crag: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=108

I am wondering if anyone who's climbed here can give some info about what the climbs are like at the lower end of the grades (Diff->HVD). In particular are there climbs with nice friendly jugs for beginners or is it standard gritstone "there's so much friction, your feet just stick without needing any handholds, boy!" ?

Thanks in advance!

In reply to climbwhenready:

An excellent crag at for those grades, just be aware that like many high crags it is not Stanage popular. Expect scrittley rock, guano, lichen and the odd pile of dead bird bits. However Answer crack makes the 'epic' walk in worthwhile.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Its a great crag, but it can be very windy/cold up there even in summer so make sure you pick your day carefully. The walk in is steep but rewarding with good views so given the right warm sunny day this could be a cracking day out for a group of beginners. On the wrong day you might be more likely to put them off climbing.

In the same area another venue to consider is Rob's Rocks http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1714 It dries quickly and doesn't suffer from the greeniss that Dovestones can be prone to at this time of year. The walk in is also easier as it is on a large road/track, and the rock is extremely juggy, it is a bit like a Windgather of moorland grit.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

I think you have more choice of good routes in the grade range at Dovestones, even though some of them might be greener. To be honest, DD's comment about "scrattly " rock only applies to a short section of the crag; the main buttresses are extremely solid.

Central Tower is the V.Diff of the crag, and possibly the best of its grade in the Chew.

Thanks for the advice. We're going to be visiting my parents close by in May, and I'm hoping to get in some climbing if the weather's good!

In reply to climbwhenready:

One of my favourite crags!

+1 for Central Tower. Also consider Wrinkled Butress (VD), Nobbly Wall (HVD), Swan Crack (HVD) and Question Mark (HVD).

It's a steep walk in if you park at Binn Green on the A635. You can walk up from the sailing club which is gentler but longer. They also have an ice cream van.

Note: if the weather is too wet for climbing consider a traverse of the Chew Valley Rim from Alphin to Alderman. Top walk.

In reply to climbwhenready:

MOst of the rock on the right is excellent - it's a bit biscuity on the far left. Lot's to do at those grades.

Gets the Sun later in the day - excellent views. Consider also Rob's Rocks at these grades.

Great, I'll take a look at Rob's Rocks too and make a decision. Need to get my hands on a copy of Over the Moors thedatastream: If the weather's not good enough for climbing we'll definitely be walking instead!

In reply to climbwhenready:

Don't forget to do the perfect porthole problem while you're there

In reply to climbwhenready:

If they can manage the walk in they will be OK on the routes!

In reply to JimboWizbo:

That would make the walk in from Binns epic!

In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Yeah think I was a little off the mark with that suggestion