UKC

Anyone have knowledge of what state the Ben is in at the minute after the sustained thaw. I have seen a usual sites.
Realize when the freeze predicted on Friday arrives the easier gullies should be complete and okay, except for cornice threatened, but any ideas on indicator wall, minus gullies,Orion etc ?

In reply to jas wood:

Yesterday there were teams running away from the Minus Face/Orion area and some very unpleasant noises in Coire na Ciste of falling cornices and rock and ice fall. Some teams were on the great ridges but Castle Ridge was rock in the middle.
On Buachaille Etive Mor today there was a little wet snow lying above 1000m and the coires and basins looked to holding on to snow well above 900m. Make of that what you will and suck it and see over the next few days!

In reply to jas wood:
Heading up on Fri for a few days and given the drop in freezing levels am also pretty hopeful that some stuff Orion face area will be in. How bad has the thaw been or has no one been able to see through all the cloud !?

In reply to kenneM:

No one gone up today although parties from Glenmore Lodge and West Coast Mountain Guides are at the CIC Hut this week. We had a dry start to the day but winds of 100mph at Glencoe Ski Centre car park and heavy rain to end the day.
Pics from Ben area on monday here and Curved Ridge yesterday: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk Lower down the hill and on the Ridges the snow was treating rapidly (Castle Ridge bare of snow in the middle, SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder now turf and rubble). But higher up Coire bowls and Gullies still look to be holding onto the snow so there is hope.

In reply to AlH:

What are those gloves you are wearing?

In reply to James91:

Skytech Argons - http://www.skytecgloves.com/skytec-argon

Can be bought at Screwfix if you're happy with the larger sizes. Smaller sizes can be had off the web.

In reply to mattrm:

nah, not argon's. those argon things are like sponges - completely useless in the wet.
i dont know what he was wearing but i reckon you could probably see them or similar in BnQ or Wickes etc.

In reply to James91:

http://www.showabestgloves.com/showa-660-oil-resistant?gi=jdf7lpl09la21vk7o... given to me by Mike Pescod when working a wet day for him. Not as warm initially as argon's but on a damp day infinitely better as they are completely impermeable. Worn with a thin merino liner- the business.

And on the Ben, wild weather but Glenmore Lodge and West Coast Mountain Guides teams (http://blog.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/?p=6670) making the most of it on the Ridges this week. A dusting of snow today on picture at end of my blog today: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/a-day-in-glen-but-fresh-snow-on-...

In reply to AlH:

Ha, I used to use those for handling acids and peroxides at work!

In reply to jas wood:

Very wet in the Mamores this morning, a little fresh stuff on higher ground. Getting colder but only freezing above 900m-ish.

In reply to jas wood:

Mike, Claire and others getting things done today: http://abacusmountainguides.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/a-perfect-scottish-winte...

In reply to jas wood:

Looks like its back white upstairs so I for one will be going to see whats what :O)

In reply to jas wood:

Lots of fresh snow and snowing further at sea level in Fort William this evening: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/east-buttress-of-n-ridge-of-stob...

Mike Pescod was on Ben nevis today and his blog makes it clear that the avalanche conditions were getting serious by late in the day. http://abacusmountainguides.blogspot.co.uk Its been dumping down at sea level in Corpach this evening so there will be a lot more up there by tomorrow!

A few things have been done such as 3 Gully Buttress accessed by the first pitch of 2 Step Corner (variable ice) and Glover's Chimney - keep an eye out for Matt Stygall updating West Coast Mountain Guides' blog on his an Tim Neill's work on Ben Nevis this week now they are off the hill: http://blog.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk

In reply to jas wood:
We had a few routes in mind on Orion and Minus Face yesterday but the approach was very sketchy, (deep unstable snow pack, it was snowing heavily when we left too).
It was difficult to tell if the ice was any good on the faces as they were burried.
Ended up doing The Great Chimney, not great conditions but a good day out all the same.

In reply to jas wood:

We were out on the Ben on Saturday having a look at the Minus Face along with another 4 teams. After spending several hours swimming up through powder to the base of the routes and not getting anywhere at all once there, everyone ran away!

Windy high up in Lochaber today. a lot of snow on the move on Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and in the Mamores https://twitter.com/AlanHalewood/status/448060524136132608/photo/1

So with a potential 4 day trip this Thursday to Sunday up to Fort William area does it feel like anything will be feasible up to grade IV? Cop out option will be a few munro's assuming it won't be wading through snow!

Thanks,
Marq

In reply to Marq:

Pics of some mountaineering options up to II/III that have been doable in last 3 days http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk

In reply to Marq:

I'm planning to head up Wednesday night for the same length of time. Hoping the SE winds might come round a bit and blow any powder off Curved Ridge on the Buachaille. Other than that it will be a case of suck it and see on the Ben. Unless the Locals come up with recommendations!

In reply to pass and peak:

SE with snow is a bad direction for Ben Nevis IMho

In reply to Marq:

Try these. Should keep you busy for four days.

Castle Ridge, Ben Nevis
East Ridge, North Buttress, Stob Ban
North Buttress Buachaille Etive Mor
Sron na Lairig
Dragon's Tooth, Glenachulish
Western Rib, Aonach Mor
Aonach Eagach

Mike

In reply to Mike Pescod:

Ignoring the avalanche risk (which I won't don't worry), Is there much Grade IV+ ice high up on the Ben just now?

In reply to jas wood:

We climbed Observatory Ridge on Saturday. Very tough conditions.

http://leeharrisonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/observatory-ridge-v4-bern...

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Maybe. Hard to tell. From the amount of drifting snow piling in on the Ben today it's probably all buried. Massive amounts of drifting snow on these strong SE winds. Most teams seemed to be active around the climbs on the Douglas Boulder.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Didn't see much Steve. It all looked pretty shite on Saturday to be honest but hard to be certain with so much fresh snow.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Cheers......

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Seen you guys on it, good effort.

In reply to jas wood:

I was on Ben Nevis today. With all the spindrift flying about, it was like being inside a violently shaken snow globe.

http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/2014/03/24/inside-snow-globe-sw-ridge-...

In reply to KA:

Good description I was on skis on Ceannacroc hills, double cornice on a knife edge arete, ouch, nevee underneathnew slab and was actually crawling for a while along one arete, wore goggles all day for the keen to violent winds and spindrift. Epic day, felt serious and was!

Thanks for the replies particularly Mike, Alan and Ken. I'd picked up on some of the routes from looking at your blogs. Staying at the CC hut so may bump into a few of you!

Marq

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Surely if you're after some winter climbing then some snow isn't a bad thing? It's nearly April, and there's reasonable ice and mixed climbing to be had at all levels of difficulty. With a bit of thought you'll be able to avoid avalanches.

In reply to jas wood:

Anyone know if Ledge Route is in/coming into condition? Taking a novice friend up it Sunday.

In reply to JohnBson:
Ledge Route is definitely in winter condition at the moment, but is climbable in any condition (weather depending). The approach may require a bit of care, but No. 5 Gully will have consolidated quite a bit recently, and should be ok. We saw a skier heading up No. 5 Gully yesterday, although that doesn't necessarily mean it's safe.

The approach above The Curtain (the blue line on the topo in Scottish Winter Climbs), moving rightwards and then up a left trending gully to the base of Ledge Route avoids having to be in No 5 Gully for long, particularly as temps look to be rising for the weekend, and will lead to the cornices at the top of No. 5 becoming unstable.

In reply to JohnBson:

It's got snow on it, there you have it.