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Agree/ Disagree?
In reply to Blizzard:
Personally- yes. Worst winter for 7 years. Been working very little this year compared to last two, but have managed less days out due to outrageous weather and high snow line, and less climbs due to similar reasons and avalanche/cornice hazard. It certainly seems quieter both on the Winter Forum and on the climbs list. An exceedingly frustrating winter in my opinion- obviously there's been massive amounts of snow, but it's never been cake to really "do" anything due to lack of really cold spell/snow falling on wet and warm ground.
Unless there's a cold snap early April (working til then), then I think I've resigned myself to winter being mostly over for me.
Next year tho...well, I read something in the Daily Mail saying they thought the next ice age was on its way...!
Cheers,
Gordon.
Personally- yes. Worst winter for 7 years. Been working very little this year compared to last two, but have managed less days out due to outrageous weather and high snow line, and less climbs due to similar reasons and avalanche/cornice hazard. It certainly seems quieter both on the Winter Forum and on the climbs list. An exceedingly frustrating winter in my opinion- obviously there's been massive amounts of snow, but it's never been cake to really "do" anything due to lack of really cold spell/snow falling on wet and warm ground.
Unless there's a cold snap early April (working til then), then I think I've resigned myself to winter being mostly over for me.
Next year tho...well, I read something in the Daily Mail saying they thought the next ice age was on its way...!
Cheers,
Gordon.
In reply to Blizzard:
Yes, it's been a poor winter. No shortage of snow, but way too much wind. And, on the whole, not cold enough.
Yes, it's been a poor winter. No shortage of snow, but way too much wind. And, on the whole, not cold enough.
Post edited at 20:53
In reply to Blizzard:
It has very much been a case (as always I guess) of being in just the right place at the right time. I've had a pretty good winter with about 30 routes under my belt, but probably only because I live in the Highlands and haven't worked since New Year.
Going North-West seems to have been the key for me this season, had quite a few beautiful days in Torridon etc in great conditions and good weather when everywhere else was pretty rubbish.
Also the novelty value of climbing some routes in monumentally fat conditions wasn't bad.
It has been very frustrating a lot of the time but it has definitely had its moments. For me personally the 2011/12 season was far worse.
It has very much been a case (as always I guess) of being in just the right place at the right time. I've had a pretty good winter with about 30 routes under my belt, but probably only because I live in the Highlands and haven't worked since New Year.
Going North-West seems to have been the key for me this season, had quite a few beautiful days in Torridon etc in great conditions and good weather when everywhere else was pretty rubbish.
Also the novelty value of climbing some routes in monumentally fat conditions wasn't bad.
It has been very frustrating a lot of the time but it has definitely had its moments. For me personally the 2011/12 season was far worse.
In reply to Blizzard:
Exactly! Does make you think tho...their early predictions/scare mongering stories about this winter being the worst for decades...not too far off the mark in some respects in terms of storms and flooding and unprecedented snow. There was, of course, no way they knew this would happen and were obviously attention grabbing headlines at the time!
Exactly! Does make you think tho...their early predictions/scare mongering stories about this winter being the worst for decades...not too far off the mark in some respects in terms of storms and flooding and unprecedented snow. There was, of course, no way they knew this would happen and were obviously attention grabbing headlines at the time!
In reply to Blizzard:
For me it has been terrible - every time I head north this winter the weather craps out and/or there is a thaw. In between my visits the conditions have been pretty good though. Other people have managed to get lots done.
For me it has been terrible - every time I head north this winter the weather craps out and/or there is a thaw. In between my visits the conditions have been pretty good though. Other people have managed to get lots done.
In reply to Blizzard:
There seems to have been a general pattern of good days being midweek and weekends being poor.
There seems to have been a general pattern of good days being midweek and weekends being poor.
In reply to DaveHK:
Yes, this has been the winter where, for the first time ever, I officially went over to movable weekends. I've worked quite a few stormy Saturdays in lieu of sunny Wednesdays. No idea why I didn't do this before.
But even with flexibility like that, I've still had too much work on to get anything like as much done as I've wanted to, and the #1 reason why things haven't happened when work wasn't stopping me, is the wind.
Yes, this has been the winter where, for the first time ever, I officially went over to movable weekends. I've worked quite a few stormy Saturdays in lieu of sunny Wednesdays. No idea why I didn't do this before.
But even with flexibility like that, I've still had too much work on to get anything like as much done as I've wanted to, and the #1 reason why things haven't happened when work wasn't stopping me, is the wind.
Post edited at 21:38
In reply to Blizzard:
it's been a rubbish winter, I've been broken for most of it and due to the incompetence of the person who reviewed my x-rays 4 months ago but didn't bother telling me that there was a fragment of bone floating around in my hand I haven't even been on the waiting list to have it seen to and haven't been getting better at all. So now I'm fat and weak and have achieved bugger all this winter.
it's been a rubbish winter, I've been broken for most of it and due to the incompetence of the person who reviewed my x-rays 4 months ago but didn't bother telling me that there was a fragment of bone floating around in my hand I haven't even been on the waiting list to have it seen to and haven't been getting better at all. So now I'm fat and weak and have achieved bugger all this winter.
In reply to Blizzard:
I've only got one route done in Scotland this year. I was free from December to March but it was too windy pretty much every weekend.
I've only got one route done in Scotland this year. I was free from December to March but it was too windy pretty much every weekend.
In reply to Blizzard:
I think that if you have been in the right place at the right time (Dubh Loch, Beinn Eighe, Ben Nevis) and in the market for new routing at the cutting edge, then there have been truly exceptional fleeting conditions better than any in living memeory.
For my part, I've done 2 very puntery routes and failed on three equally puntery ones......
I think that if you have been in the right place at the right time (Dubh Loch, Beinn Eighe, Ben Nevis) and in the market for new routing at the cutting edge, then there have been truly exceptional fleeting conditions better than any in living memeory.
For my part, I've done 2 very puntery routes and failed on three equally puntery ones......
In reply to Blizzard:
Still not over.
I got home from work to find the trees outside my house on the verge of blowing over .
I sat not wanting to get out of the van ,and when I tried , I could hardly force the door open .
Then struggled to open the gate ,whilst getting pressure washed.
Some suicidal sheep had in the meantime taken refuge in front of the van and would not budge .
Now know these sheep quite well (not that well) and one of them definitely tells me to f*ck off
Still not over.
I got home from work to find the trees outside my house on the verge of blowing over .
I sat not wanting to get out of the van ,and when I tried , I could hardly force the door open .
Then struggled to open the gate ,whilst getting pressure washed.
Some suicidal sheep had in the meantime taken refuge in front of the van and would not budge .
Now know these sheep quite well (not that well) and one of them definitely tells me to f*ck off
In reply to Blizzard:
It's been rubbish unless you were in the right place at the right time in Scotland. Which I wasn't as I work Mon - Fri and live in Birmingham. Nothing worth speaking of South of the Border. Looking at the past couple of years, the weather has often been unpredictable and fairly extreme. Perhaps it's the new trend.
It's been rubbish unless you were in the right place at the right time in Scotland. Which I wasn't as I work Mon - Fri and live in Birmingham. Nothing worth speaking of South of the Border. Looking at the past couple of years, the weather has often been unpredictable and fairly extreme. Perhaps it's the new trend.
In reply to Misha:
It's the norm for the weather to be full on in Scotland during the winter. The average mean wind speed on the cairngorm plateaux over the winter is 40 mph.
The few settled cold winters we've had over the past 5 years are less normal IMO.
It's the norm for the weather to be full on in Scotland during the winter. The average mean wind speed on the cairngorm plateaux over the winter is 40 mph.
The few settled cold winters we've had over the past 5 years are less normal IMO.
Post edited at 05:51
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Yes shit weather is common in any Scottish winter.
What has marked this one out for me though is the number of days when there was nick but it wasn't sensible to try to make use of it due to the wind.
Any suggestion that its been a 'normal' winter is given the lie by the massive cornices and huge snow deposits on certain aspects.
Has point 5 been done at all this year?
> (In reply to Misha) It's the norm for the weather to be full on in Scotland during the winter. The average mean wind speed on the cairngorm plateaux over the winter is 40 mph.
>
>
Yes shit weather is common in any Scottish winter.
What has marked this one out for me though is the number of days when there was nick but it wasn't sensible to try to make use of it due to the wind.
Any suggestion that its been a 'normal' winter is given the lie by the massive cornices and huge snow deposits on certain aspects.
Has point 5 been done at all this year?
In reply to Blizzard:
I kind of commented on this quite (too) early in the season, Warm and Wet I think the thread was called. Had my fingers crossed for you guys but hopefully the weather has one more cold snap in it.
I kind of commented on this quite (too) early in the season, Warm and Wet I think the thread was called. Had my fingers crossed for you guys but hopefully the weather has one more cold snap in it.
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Looking at the data recorded on the AWS on Cairngorm summit the average wind speed through January was significantly higher - unfortunately the AWS went off line towards the beginning of February so we'll be unable to measure average wind speed on Cairngorm this winter by the looks of things. From my personal experience that has been the continuous windiest winter I can remember and I would suspect the average wind speed through January and February heading into March would be a great deal higher than 40mph. I'd plump my guesstimate at around 55mph.
> It's the norm for the weather to be full on in Scotland during the winter. The average mean wind speed on the cairngorm plateaux over the winter is 40 mph.
> The few settled cold winters we've had over the past 5 years are less normal IMO.
Looking at the data recorded on the AWS on Cairngorm summit the average wind speed through January was significantly higher - unfortunately the AWS went off line towards the beginning of February so we'll be unable to measure average wind speed on Cairngorm this winter by the looks of things. From my personal experience that has been the continuous windiest winter I can remember and I would suspect the average wind speed through January and February heading into March would be a great deal higher than 40mph. I'd plump my guesstimate at around 55mph.
In reply to george mc:
Probably right george. I guess I wasn't trying to play down this winter just saying that last winter and the winters 09/10 and 10/11 where we got a lot of cold crisp settled blues sky weather are not really the norm and you have to go back quite a lot of years prior to 09/10 before you get the last winter with a lot of cold settled winter.
Probably right george. I guess I wasn't trying to play down this winter just saying that last winter and the winters 09/10 and 10/11 where we got a lot of cold crisp settled blues sky weather are not really the norm and you have to go back quite a lot of years prior to 09/10 before you get the last winter with a lot of cold settled winter.
In reply to DaveHK:
Its been a very disapointing winter for me. Went to Valtournenche and it was too snowy to get much done (ticked 3 routes), the skiing was good though. I haven't ticked a single uk winter route and I was waiting for things to get good in scotland but its not looking too promising right now for that either with windy cold weather for the next few days and then mild again!
On the plus side I've done quite a bit of trad climbing over on swanage.
Its been a very disapointing winter for me. Went to Valtournenche and it was too snowy to get much done (ticked 3 routes), the skiing was good though. I haven't ticked a single uk winter route and I was waiting for things to get good in scotland but its not looking too promising right now for that either with windy cold weather for the next few days and then mild again!
On the plus side I've done quite a bit of trad climbing over on swanage.
Post edited at 08:16
In reply to Blizzard:
I've only managed to line up good climbing with free days on weekends a few times this year, I certainly agree that better weather combined with conditions have seemed to appear mid week. Alongside this, with no real winter south of the border, my route tally is way down on recent years.
However, I did also miss an opportunity to go to the North West when I had a few days off and climbing was good.
I have been out for three days, done four routes, all of which were good, and am hoping to still get some Ben ice done yet.
I've had worse years, but this isn't great.
I've only managed to line up good climbing with free days on weekends a few times this year, I certainly agree that better weather combined with conditions have seemed to appear mid week. Alongside this, with no real winter south of the border, my route tally is way down on recent years.
However, I did also miss an opportunity to go to the North West when I had a few days off and climbing was good.
I have been out for three days, done four routes, all of which were good, and am hoping to still get some Ben ice done yet.
I've had worse years, but this isn't great.
In reply to george mc:
Kind of ironic really. I have an End Of Year Review of how my life's going every New Year's Eve, and the biggest conclusion to come out of EOYR 2013 was that I was working too hard and I wasn't climbing/skiing/cycling/having fun nearly enough. Hence moveable weekends, and a definite policy of taking every chance I get to climb/ski/etc., rather than sitting at home fuming I'm not out and fretting at all the work stuff that needs doing.
Since then it's been a near-perfect collision of policy and non-opportunity... Grrr.
(Well, perhaps I exaggerate. Since then I've had 7 skiing days, 3 outdoor climbing trips, and one trip to the Ice Factor. I've seconded two FWAs (a V, 5 and a V,6) and bimbled two grade Is... But it doesn't *feel* like I've done enough, particularly on the winter-climbing front.)
Kind of ironic really. I have an End Of Year Review of how my life's going every New Year's Eve, and the biggest conclusion to come out of EOYR 2013 was that I was working too hard and I wasn't climbing/skiing/cycling/having fun nearly enough. Hence moveable weekends, and a definite policy of taking every chance I get to climb/ski/etc., rather than sitting at home fuming I'm not out and fretting at all the work stuff that needs doing.
Since then it's been a near-perfect collision of policy and non-opportunity... Grrr.
(Well, perhaps I exaggerate. Since then I've had 7 skiing days, 3 outdoor climbing trips, and one trip to the Ice Factor. I've seconded two FWAs (a V, 5 and a V,6) and bimbled two grade Is... But it doesn't *feel* like I've done enough, particularly on the winter-climbing front.)
Post edited at 09:07
In reply to Blizzard:
It's not been great. 3 or 4 easy buttress routes done, more days backed off due to massive cornices or crap/dangerous conditions underfoot. On the plus side, had the new hound out for her first few winter munros which she loved.
The weather has definately been unusual this year. The sheer volume of snow above 7-800m, coupled with the mild conditions (only had to scrape the car windscreen once this year in Aberdeen!) and at times continuous high winds (and resultant massive cornices. Lochnagar has been deserted this year (unsurprisingly when you saw how badly cornices the whole corrie has been). That said, those able to get out on the good days have been getting some fantastic stuff climbed on the Dubh Loch!
Stu
It's not been great. 3 or 4 easy buttress routes done, more days backed off due to massive cornices or crap/dangerous conditions underfoot. On the plus side, had the new hound out for her first few winter munros which she loved.
The weather has definately been unusual this year. The sheer volume of snow above 7-800m, coupled with the mild conditions (only had to scrape the car windscreen once this year in Aberdeen!) and at times continuous high winds (and resultant massive cornices. Lochnagar has been deserted this year (unsurprisingly when you saw how badly cornices the whole corrie has been). That said, those able to get out on the good days have been getting some fantastic stuff climbed on the Dubh Loch!
Stu
In reply to Blizzard:
The amount of snow in the highlands was awesome , but actually getting up on anything was pretty difficult . The avalanche risk and huge cornices just made things pretty tricky .
In England and Wales winter was fairly non existent to be honest . The higher parts of the lakes got a bit of snow but the peak district and most of mid wales was completely green .
The irony of all this is that this has been the first winter when I have been fully equipped , fit and ready to go .
The amount of snow in the highlands was awesome , but actually getting up on anything was pretty difficult . The avalanche risk and huge cornices just made things pretty tricky .
In England and Wales winter was fairly non existent to be honest . The higher parts of the lakes got a bit of snow but the peak district and most of mid wales was completely green .
The irony of all this is that this has been the first winter when I have been fully equipped , fit and ready to go .
In reply to SethChili:
you didn't buy new axes did you? I did that this year and its normally a bad omen for the winter
you didn't buy new axes did you? I did that this year and its normally a bad omen for the winter
In reply to CurlyStevo:
It's actually all my fault, I bought winter tires for the car. I'm sorry chaps
It's actually all my fault, I bought winter tires for the car. I'm sorry chaps
In reply to thedatastream:
I'll share the blame on the (totally unnecessary) winter tyre purchase.
But at least I didn't splash out on a bunch of new ice screws too, as I'd intended at the start of the season. I've only placed two or three all winter.
I'll share the blame on the (totally unnecessary) winter tyre purchase.
But at least I didn't splash out on a bunch of new ice screws too, as I'd intended at the start of the season. I've only placed two or three all winter.
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
No, it's my fault.
This winter I've (a) bought a ski-touring set-up, (b) bought some ice-screws, (c) bought a spinner leash, (d) bought ski crampons, and (e) gone out of my way to make sure my crampons and tools are nice and sharp and ready for the off. What the hell was I thinking?
No, it's my fault.
This winter I've (a) bought a ski-touring set-up, (b) bought some ice-screws, (c) bought a spinner leash, (d) bought ski crampons, and (e) gone out of my way to make sure my crampons and tools are nice and sharp and ready for the off. What the hell was I thinking?
In reply to george mc:
Looking from afar at peoples photos what looks really odd is how distinct the snowline has been late into the winter. There are some of those Colin Prior posters that show my normal idea of "early winter snow" where everything is white to certain very clear line, and then there is no snow below that. And then there are late winter pictures where the snow build up in gullies corries etc. makes vertical stripes of snow that can go much further down due to build up.
But looking at all the Scotland pics this winter despite the absolute massive amounts of snow up high, it still seems that there is very clear snow line with nothing lying below that. Only these massive muddy full depth avalanches seem to have changed this as they actually have brought down these huge amounts of snow lower.
It seems much of Europe has had warmer weather than normal. It has been the 'shortest' and least snowy winter here in Finland since I think 07/08. I haven't cross country skied once which is unbelievable. People have had trouble finding 'normal' ice in much of Southern Norway, and it seems Northern Norway had a lot less snow and warmer temps than normal for much of the winter - although it seems they've had huge amounts recently and now really bad avalanche conditions.
Ironically, my snatched day doing the Snowdon Horseshoe in the snow back in December probably turned out to be one of the better days for winter walking in Wales this year. At the time I was slightly disappointed that I couldn't do a 'proper winter route' but it seems very few people did this year.
Looking from afar at peoples photos what looks really odd is how distinct the snowline has been late into the winter. There are some of those Colin Prior posters that show my normal idea of "early winter snow" where everything is white to certain very clear line, and then there is no snow below that. And then there are late winter pictures where the snow build up in gullies corries etc. makes vertical stripes of snow that can go much further down due to build up.
But looking at all the Scotland pics this winter despite the absolute massive amounts of snow up high, it still seems that there is very clear snow line with nothing lying below that. Only these massive muddy full depth avalanches seem to have changed this as they actually have brought down these huge amounts of snow lower.
It seems much of Europe has had warmer weather than normal. It has been the 'shortest' and least snowy winter here in Finland since I think 07/08. I haven't cross country skied once which is unbelievable. People have had trouble finding 'normal' ice in much of Southern Norway, and it seems Northern Norway had a lot less snow and warmer temps than normal for much of the winter - although it seems they've had huge amounts recently and now really bad avalanche conditions.
Ironically, my snatched day doing the Snowdon Horseshoe in the snow back in December probably turned out to be one of the better days for winter walking in Wales this year. At the time I was slightly disappointed that I couldn't do a 'proper winter route' but it seems very few people did this year.
Post edited at 10:05
In reply to Blizzard:
Yep. Any good days (of which there were few) have been midweek, which is no use to me.
Worse in terms of permanent bloody wind and rain that I can remember in my meagre 20 years at this hill game.
Yep. Any good days (of which there were few) have been midweek, which is no use to me.
Worse in terms of permanent bloody wind and rain that I can remember in my meagre 20 years at this hill game.
In reply to Blizzard:
This is only been my second season but it seems obvious even to me that a lot of major crags just haven't come in - Beinn Bhan, Creag Meagaidh, and I'd say are pretty unlikely to. Also - it must be pretty unusual for Point 5 not to see a single ascent (I'm assuming) come the end of March.
That said, it hasn't been bad from a personal perspective. I led my first Grade V which was my main objective for this season, and had a spectacular night on Tower Ridge.
Andrew.
This is only been my second season but it seems obvious even to me that a lot of major crags just haven't come in - Beinn Bhan, Creag Meagaidh, and I'd say are pretty unlikely to. Also - it must be pretty unusual for Point 5 not to see a single ascent (I'm assuming) come the end of March.
That said, it hasn't been bad from a personal perspective. I led my first Grade V which was my main objective for this season, and had a spectacular night on Tower Ridge.
Andrew.
In reply to planetmarshall:
One season about 7 years or so ago I remember the only hill that really came in was the Ben. But boy did it come in to nick high up. Fat plastic ice all over the shop!
Beinn Bhan, Creag Meagaidh, udlaidh etc etc all are quite low at the cliff base and don't really come properly in to nick for any length time during the season fairly frequently..
One season about 7 years or so ago I remember the only hill that really came in was the Ben. But boy did it come in to nick high up. Fat plastic ice all over the shop!
Beinn Bhan, Creag Meagaidh, udlaidh etc etc all are quite low at the cliff base and don't really come properly in to nick for any length time during the season fairly frequently..
In reply to Tim Chappell:
Oh god, what have we done?
> ...and (e) gone out of my way to make sure my crampons and tools are nice and sharp and ready for the off. What the hell was I thinking?
Oh god, what have we done?
In reply to CurlyStevo:
No I just spent a stupid amount of cash on toasty warm jackets and gloves . Most of which have hardly seen the light of day - In glencoe in mid feb I was wearing a microfleece and a base layer at 3000ft . Just too mild .
> you didn't buy new axes did you? I did that this year and its normally a bad omen for the winter
No I just spent a stupid amount of cash on toasty warm jackets and gloves . Most of which have hardly seen the light of day - In glencoe in mid feb I was wearing a microfleece and a base layer at 3000ft . Just too mild .
In reply to Blizzard:
Frustrating rather than poor. I've done the same number of routes as last year and at an overall higher grade. Also done some of the classics which I've wanted to do for ages. So good in that respect. A few last minute days of work helped.
Too many weekends where the forecast was too uncertain to waste fuel, accom costs etc though.
Frustrating rather than poor. I've done the same number of routes as last year and at an overall higher grade. Also done some of the classics which I've wanted to do for ages. So good in that respect. A few last minute days of work helped.
Too many weekends where the forecast was too uncertain to waste fuel, accom costs etc though.
In reply to Blizzard:
It's been a good winter for me.
I pushed my grade up to 5 and did a load of routes even though it was astonishingly warm - in my two weeks at Rjukan.
However, my goal had been to do my first route in the Black Ladders and in that I failed.
It's been a good winter for me.
I pushed my grade up to 5 and did a load of routes even though it was astonishingly warm - in my two weeks at Rjukan.
However, my goal had been to do my first route in the Black Ladders and in that I failed.
In reply to Marshall: Beinn Bhan, Meagaidh (shelterstone, dubh loch, lochnagar) were in this year, just had to be there at the right times..... and they all could still come back into condition.
Andy
Andy
In reply to Blizzard:
Another fantastic winter for me:
Loads of mountain biking and kitesurfing.
Excellent season of yoga teaching.
Still cool enough at night not to need a fan...though the heat is acomin
Another fantastic winter for me:
Loads of mountain biking and kitesurfing.
Excellent season of yoga teaching.
Still cool enough at night not to need a fan...though the heat is acomin
In reply to Slugain Howff:
yep a much better year for being on skis, although the wind has been much worse than anything i can remember for a long while...plenty more days to come too as the cover is still great on the higher areas (more so in the west mind) with more coming over the next few days.
yep a much better year for being on skis, although the wind has been much worse than anything i can remember for a long while...plenty more days to come too as the cover is still great on the higher areas (more so in the west mind) with more coming over the next few days.
In reply to andyinglis:
Andy is right. It's all about being available at the right time. He is the prime example of great opportunistic climbing days. Well done boy!
As Dave Kerr said, those conditions did rarely coincide with weekends. So poor winter, don't think so. Frustrating, for me absolutely. I can't take midweek days off and that's that.
Nevermind, there will be another winter (says he breathing heavily and greeting teeth).
Andy is right. It's all about being available at the right time. He is the prime example of great opportunistic climbing days. Well done boy!
As Dave Kerr said, those conditions did rarely coincide with weekends. So poor winter, don't think so. Frustrating, for me absolutely. I can't take midweek days off and that's that.
Nevermind, there will be another winter (says he breathing heavily and greeting teeth).
In reply to Blizzard:
Started off promising in Nov... Did Ring Of Steall and The Aonach Eagach in fantastic conditions.
Then it all went to pot with high winds and sh*t... took the gear for a walk on a number of occasions. Didn't bother thinking about the drive on others...
Last trip out at end of Feb climbed at Hells Lum and Lurchers which were new venues for me so that was class (even if the routes were a bit banked out...
Still it's not over yet!!
E
Started off promising in Nov... Did Ring Of Steall and The Aonach Eagach in fantastic conditions.
Then it all went to pot with high winds and sh*t... took the gear for a walk on a number of occasions. Didn't bother thinking about the drive on others...
Last trip out at end of Feb climbed at Hells Lum and Lurchers which were new venues for me so that was class (even if the routes were a bit banked out...
Still it's not over yet!!
E
A frustrating winter rather than a poor one; its not possible to say that a winter which has had significant snow on the hills consistently since end November, with venues such as the Dubh Loch, numerous parts of the North West in good condition, and the Cuillins covered in snow as Poor.
A poor winter is one with absolutely no snow!!
Have I done much with it - no, but that is my own lookout rather than the weathers. Has it been an unusual winter - Yes (even given the ability to Scotland to have very variable winters).
A poor winter is one with absolutely no snow!!
Have I done much with it - no, but that is my own lookout rather than the weathers. Has it been an unusual winter - Yes (even given the ability to Scotland to have very variable winters).
In reply to andyinglis:
Sure about Meagaidh? I certainly wouldn't have said so. As far as I know the only time the ice routes might have been formed was when it was all covered up (and an attempt would probably have been suicide).
Did Silver Tear come in?
Sure about Meagaidh? I certainly wouldn't have said so. As far as I know the only time the ice routes might have been formed was when it was all covered up (and an attempt would probably have been suicide).
Did Silver Tear come in?
In reply to Blizzard:
A tricky winter so far, but it's not over til May anyway, or maybe late April so here's hoping for some more good conditions.
There have been good conditions but due to lots of storminess conditions have varied quickly. Personally, I did my first tech 6 lead and a new route, so not bad, but hoping for more still!
A tricky winter so far, but it's not over til May anyway, or maybe late April so here's hoping for some more good conditions.
There have been good conditions but due to lots of storminess conditions have varied quickly. Personally, I did my first tech 6 lead and a new route, so not bad, but hoping for more still!
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Yes but it has been ridiculously windy and snowy this year. It's been cold enough up high, in fact there wasn't any thaw to speak of between about mid-December and late February, which is unusual. Admittedly we haven't had a properly cold spell for the lower level ice routes or Wales / Lakes to come in. But there has been plenty to do in Scotland if you could get a sufficiently settled day and avoid the avalanches and monster cornices. It just hasn't been good enough for long enough to tempt me up there! This weekend is a case in point. May be I'm just soft but it isn't looking too pleasant, though it will probably be bearable. Anyway, I've sort of lost the interest in winter stuff now... hopefully next year will be better.
Yes but it has been ridiculously windy and snowy this year. It's been cold enough up high, in fact there wasn't any thaw to speak of between about mid-December and late February, which is unusual. Admittedly we haven't had a properly cold spell for the lower level ice routes or Wales / Lakes to come in. But there has been plenty to do in Scotland if you could get a sufficiently settled day and avoid the avalanches and monster cornices. It just hasn't been good enough for long enough to tempt me up there! This weekend is a case in point. May be I'm just soft but it isn't looking too pleasant, though it will probably be bearable. Anyway, I've sort of lost the interest in winter stuff now... hopefully next year will be better.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Silver tear not as far as i know. I couldn't see anything when i had a peak after the first wee thaw.
The only routes iheard climbed on meggie was extasy and a staghorn... walked in once, looked shit got blown over didnt go back.
top roping a melting cascade was fun, deep cut was awesome, poachers a thawing mess but i think that was timing... I never thought i'd want an ice screw on the seam...
the winter has been well wintry...
Silver tear not as far as i know. I couldn't see anything when i had a peak after the first wee thaw.
The only routes iheard climbed on meggie was extasy and a staghorn... walked in once, looked shit got blown over didnt go back.
top roping a melting cascade was fun, deep cut was awesome, poachers a thawing mess but i think that was timing... I never thought i'd want an ice screw on the seam...
the winter has been well wintry...
In reply to Slugain Howff:
i left my skis in sheffield to avoid temptation... do you archive/record your tours?
i left my skis in sheffield to avoid temptation... do you archive/record your tours?
In reply to Misha:
Yeah its quite typical that winter climbers are chomping at the bit in November when conditions are often not much cop unless you are in to hard mixed, yet come April when quite often the best conditions can be found (high up on the Ben) many climbers turn back to rock. I'm not going to give up just yet unless things do come good but I must admit I'm thinking more of rock trips myself!
For sure the best winter climbing I've done in Scotland has been on the Ben in March and April.
Yeah its quite typical that winter climbers are chomping at the bit in November when conditions are often not much cop unless you are in to hard mixed, yet come April when quite often the best conditions can be found (high up on the Ben) many climbers turn back to rock. I'm not going to give up just yet unless things do come good but I must admit I'm thinking more of rock trips myself!
For sure the best winter climbing I've done in Scotland has been on the Ben in March and April.
Post edited at 20:20
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Yeah spot on. If it was decent late season weather I'd be up for getting up there but it isn't, so mountain biking, wall and sport climbing win out! I suppose we were spoilt by the glorious weather around this time last year - equally rare.
Yeah spot on. If it was decent late season weather I'd be up for getting up there but it isn't, so mountain biking, wall and sport climbing win out! I suppose we were spoilt by the glorious weather around this time last year - equally rare.
In reply to Blizzard:
Got some new Lynx's for Xmas - bring on the VI and VII's - didn't even touch snow! 3 trips planned for Scotland, went once, got blown over one day, horizontal rain the next. Blown out/corniced the other trips. At least the new kit saw some action in The Goods. Hard to get psyched for Scotland now with a Pabbay rock trip looming in May - and only five weekends available to get out. Oh well only 8 months to go till next season!
Got some new Lynx's for Xmas - bring on the VI and VII's - didn't even touch snow! 3 trips planned for Scotland, went once, got blown over one day, horizontal rain the next. Blown out/corniced the other trips. At least the new kit saw some action in The Goods. Hard to get psyched for Scotland now with a Pabbay rock trip looming in May - and only five weekends available to get out. Oh well only 8 months to go till next season!
In reply to thedatastream:
I got snow chains for the new car, my apologies BUT for the first time I actually had to use them after getting stuck trying to go up (and then reverse down) a hill covered in about 1cm of hard-packed snow - on Dartmoor! :O
> It's actually all my fault, I bought winter tires for the car. I'm sorry chaps
I got snow chains for the new car, my apologies BUT for the first time I actually had to use them after getting stuck trying to go up (and then reverse down) a hill covered in about 1cm of hard-packed snow - on Dartmoor! :O
Post edited at 10:41
In reply to thedatastream:
I need to take a share of the blame too folks.
Bought some G14s in October [not wanting to be caught out in case it went cold in Nov!] and haven't worn them yet, despite a 1000 mile round trip to Lochnagar in January only to NOT CLIMB due to the avalanche risk. Oh, and that night to have a great wild camp [with a fire] under clear skies and a couple of beers only to be woken in the morning by a raging blizzard, a porch full of snow and the local Police informing us that we were camped between the NOW LOCKED snow gates [near Glenshee] and had to drive North on a massive detour in order to get back home to the Midlands!
At least next winter can't be any worse!
I need to take a share of the blame too folks.
Bought some G14s in October [not wanting to be caught out in case it went cold in Nov!] and haven't worn them yet, despite a 1000 mile round trip to Lochnagar in January only to NOT CLIMB due to the avalanche risk. Oh, and that night to have a great wild camp [with a fire] under clear skies and a couple of beers only to be woken in the morning by a raging blizzard, a porch full of snow and the local Police informing us that we were camped between the NOW LOCKED snow gates [near Glenshee] and had to drive North on a massive detour in order to get back home to the Midlands!
At least next winter can't be any worse!
Post edited at 11:34
In reply to Cornish boy:
It could easily be much, much worse. I think people complaining about this winter are probably quite new to winter climbing and been spoilt a bit a few quite good ones recently.
> At least next winter can't be any worse!
It could easily be much, much worse. I think people complaining about this winter are probably quite new to winter climbing and been spoilt a bit a few quite good ones recently.
In reply to alasdair19:
Exactly. I don't think one can say the mountain was 'in nick' based on one hard mixed route and a (probably banked out) snow gully.
>
> The only routes iheard climbed on meggie was extasy and a staghorn... walked in once, looked shit got blown over didnt go back.
>
> The only routes iheard climbed on meggie was extasy and a staghorn... walked in once, looked shit got blown over didnt go back.
>
Exactly. I don't think one can say the mountain was 'in nick' based on one hard mixed route and a (probably banked out) snow gully.
In reply to Cornish boy:
Ouch! That's pretty unlucky.
>
> Bought some G14s in October [not wanting to be caught out in case it went cold in Nov!] and haven't worn them yet, despite a 1000 mile round trip to Lochnagar in January only to NOT CLIMB due to the avalanche risk. Oh, and that night to have a great wild camp [with a fire] under clear skies and a couple of beers only to be woken in the morning by a raging blizzard, a porch full of snow and the local Police informing us that we were camped between the NOW LOCKED snow gates [near Glenshee] and had to drive North on a massive detour in order to get back home to the Midlands!
>
> Bought some G14s in October [not wanting to be caught out in case it went cold in Nov!] and haven't worn them yet, despite a 1000 mile round trip to Lochnagar in January only to NOT CLIMB due to the avalanche risk. Oh, and that night to have a great wild camp [with a fire] under clear skies and a couple of beers only to be woken in the morning by a raging blizzard, a porch full of snow and the local Police informing us that we were camped between the NOW LOCKED snow gates [near Glenshee] and had to drive North on a massive detour in order to get back home to the Midlands!
>
Ouch! That's pretty unlucky.
In reply to Robert Durran:
I totally agree. At least there's been lots of snow and a variety of routes in good condition - that said, it has been taxing to work out the best option for a given day out and it has been frequently stormy.
I totally agree. At least there's been lots of snow and a variety of routes in good condition - that said, it has been taxing to work out the best option for a given day out and it has been frequently stormy.
In reply to Cornish boy:
Bad one. But you did something very hard, and got it right: you didn't let the drive and the expense that you'd just incurred pressure you into taking on a dangerous climb.
If there is any one mountaineering skill that keeps people alive, it is knowing when to say No!
Bad one. But you did something very hard, and got it right: you didn't let the drive and the expense that you'd just incurred pressure you into taking on a dangerous climb.
If there is any one mountaineering skill that keeps people alive, it is knowing when to say No!
In reply to Blizzard:
It's been a hard season to judge conditions & decide where to go. We bailed off the hill today as it was melting around us (although it was a lovely day for a walk). But generally, I've got out loads this year, gone to some out-of-the-way places and got a couple of long-standing ambitions ticked off so I'd say it's been pretty good.
It's been a hard season to judge conditions & decide where to go. We bailed off the hill today as it was melting around us (although it was a lovely day for a walk). But generally, I've got out loads this year, gone to some out-of-the-way places and got a couple of long-standing ambitions ticked off so I'd say it's been pretty good.
In reply to LakesWinter:
Yes, with the honeypots of Creag Meagaidh and Ben Nevis not offering much, people have had to think a little bit more for themselves just like the good old pre internet days. An unusual winter rather then a poor one.
> It has been taxing to work out the best option for a given day out and it has been frequently stormy.
Yes, with the honeypots of Creag Meagaidh and Ben Nevis not offering much, people have had to think a little bit more for themselves just like the good old pre internet days. An unusual winter rather then a poor one.
Post edited at 17:25
In reply to Robert Durran:
I kept telling myself its not that bad it could be raining..
I think we've had a run of great weather winters. This has been a great snow one! Its also (touch wood) been fatality low.
I kept telling myself its not that bad it could be raining..
I think we've had a run of great weather winters. This has been a great snow one! Its also (touch wood) been fatality low.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Yo're so right, We are just newcomers. I've only been going out since the eighties and I think this is the worst I've known, including quite a few with very little snow.
Yo're so right, We are just newcomers. I've only been going out since the eighties and I think this is the worst I've known, including quite a few with very little snow.
In reply to Blizzard:
Its certainly been good for this forum. Less disproportionally long discussions and arguments about very simple routes like Dorsal Arete. Ive never climbed it, seen it plenty, but ive read the name now so many times its drained any desire to do so. The main blessing is that the Northern Corries have been so much out of bounds.
Its certainly been good for this forum. Less disproportionally long discussions and arguments about very simple routes like Dorsal Arete. Ive never climbed it, seen it plenty, but ive read the name now so many times its drained any desire to do so. The main blessing is that the Northern Corries have been so much out of bounds.
In reply to Blizzard:
Cancelled four or five sets of dates with different people this winter and had one really successful trip where we did a bit of Liathach traverse and the Beinn Alligin traverse on lovely clear days.
That probably doesn't sound too great, but it was in a weekend round trip from Cornwall, book-ended by work on the Friday and the Monday! And that's the problem for me and for most of the rest of us I guess, the difficulty of commitment to travel when it looks iffy and even when you do, a whole day's worth of driving preceding any climbing is enough time for good forecasts to turn bad. I expect if we all lived in Torlundy or wherever we'd have all got a shit load done.
Cancelled four or five sets of dates with different people this winter and had one really successful trip where we did a bit of Liathach traverse and the Beinn Alligin traverse on lovely clear days.
That probably doesn't sound too great, but it was in a weekend round trip from Cornwall, book-ended by work on the Friday and the Monday! And that's the problem for me and for most of the rest of us I guess, the difficulty of commitment to travel when it looks iffy and even when you do, a whole day's worth of driving preceding any climbing is enough time for good forecasts to turn bad. I expect if we all lived in Torlundy or wherever we'd have all got a shit load done.
In reply to Blizzard:
Abysmal x 1000! After a fabulous 2012/13 season I got got everything prepared in readiness for this one: new axes/new crampons, repaired boots and salopettes, checked out routes, looked at videos of ice climbing, re-read avalanche info, got some partners sorted, CC membership so I could sleep in a hut instead of the back of the car like I have for the last 4 years. And for what? The only ice I've seen is when the birdbath in the garden froze over! And even thats only happened rarely as we've had barely a handful of frosts here in Aylesbury. I agree with the last post from Tom Last, living 200 miles from the nearest mountains does make it harder to snatch a route when good conditions have been so fleeting. Two w/e trips, 5 gd I/II routes in soft snow, only got the new crampons on once to see how they fitted, used old axes as no ice to be had. Aaaaarrrrggghhh. Thats better now, got it off my chest!!
Abysmal x 1000! After a fabulous 2012/13 season I got got everything prepared in readiness for this one: new axes/new crampons, repaired boots and salopettes, checked out routes, looked at videos of ice climbing, re-read avalanche info, got some partners sorted, CC membership so I could sleep in a hut instead of the back of the car like I have for the last 4 years. And for what? The only ice I've seen is when the birdbath in the garden froze over! And even thats only happened rarely as we've had barely a handful of frosts here in Aylesbury. I agree with the last post from Tom Last, living 200 miles from the nearest mountains does make it harder to snatch a route when good conditions have been so fleeting. Two w/e trips, 5 gd I/II routes in soft snow, only got the new crampons on once to see how they fitted, used old axes as no ice to be had. Aaaaarrrrggghhh. Thats better now, got it off my chest!!
In reply to Blizzard:
Been pretty rubbish for a weekend warrior. Too much wind and snow. So many routes burried. I thought at least maybe some descent late season conditions might develop following all this snow but didn't look to be much ice on Ben Nevis at the weekend. Maybe still time...
Surely not as bad as two years ago though? A decent December I remember then also lots of wind and pretty much the season over by the beginning of March.
Been pretty rubbish for a weekend warrior. Too much wind and snow. So many routes burried. I thought at least maybe some descent late season conditions might develop following all this snow but didn't look to be much ice on Ben Nevis at the weekend. Maybe still time...
Surely not as bad as two years ago though? A decent December I remember then also lots of wind and pretty much the season over by the beginning of March.
In reply to wercat:
well it doesn't correspond with my memory. I think about early 2000s, we had a few really, really rubbish winters with virtually no snow. This is far better than that.
well it doesn't correspond with my memory. I think about early 2000s, we had a few really, really rubbish winters with virtually no snow. This is far better than that.
In reply to Blizzard:
Its not been good but you do what u can...
thursday night drive from S Devon to Aviemore. 2 hrs sleep then first ever go at ski touring out of Glen Feshie on Friday. Found skinning up way easier than I expected and skiing down far harder...bit steep for my 2nd time ever on snow! Did get up over 930m though so not all bad.
Saturday decided too windy so walked through the Chalamain Gap and up and over the Lairig Ghru to Garbh Corrie Bothy. Saw a Golden Eagle which soared above us looking huge. At the bothy picked the door up and dug all the snow out! Back to the Sugar Bowl in about 8 hours.
Sunday fancied a stroll on my own so went out of the ski car park, up to 1141, then across to Stob Corrie An't Snechda then a bit of compass practice in the white room out to Stag Rocks, back to 1141 then Cairngorm and down. Didn't see a sole all day on the plateau.
Quick tea then shared drive back to Devon.
Windy all weekend, snow at times. Bad winter? Probably yes, but you do what you can....
Its not been good but you do what u can...
thursday night drive from S Devon to Aviemore. 2 hrs sleep then first ever go at ski touring out of Glen Feshie on Friday. Found skinning up way easier than I expected and skiing down far harder...bit steep for my 2nd time ever on snow! Did get up over 930m though so not all bad.
Saturday decided too windy so walked through the Chalamain Gap and up and over the Lairig Ghru to Garbh Corrie Bothy. Saw a Golden Eagle which soared above us looking huge. At the bothy picked the door up and dug all the snow out! Back to the Sugar Bowl in about 8 hours.
Sunday fancied a stroll on my own so went out of the ski car park, up to 1141, then across to Stob Corrie An't Snechda then a bit of compass practice in the white room out to Stag Rocks, back to 1141 then Cairngorm and down. Didn't see a sole all day on the plateau.
Quick tea then shared drive back to Devon.
Windy all weekend, snow at times. Bad winter? Probably yes, but you do what you can....
In reply to Full moon addict:
Agreed that there were, at that time some very cold winters with little snow, but there was good ice about.
I know for a fact that winter 1999-2000 had some good conditions and 2000-2001 was shaping up brilliantly until the fells were closed for F&M. Fortunately not so in Scotland that year.
I know of no other year for as much wind and rain, perhaps areas to the far NW of Scotland were favoured but here it seemed endless and I've never seen the Eden valley waterlogged for so long
Agreed that there were, at that time some very cold winters with little snow, but there was good ice about.
I know for a fact that winter 1999-2000 had some good conditions and 2000-2001 was shaping up brilliantly until the fells were closed for F&M. Fortunately not so in Scotland that year.
I know of no other year for as much wind and rain, perhaps areas to the far NW of Scotland were favoured but here it seemed endless and I've never seen the Eden valley waterlogged for so long
In reply to Blizzard:
IIRC winter 89-90 in the Lakes wasn't great (I didn't have any time off midweek, so can't speak for those times) but it was possible to get out at least without enduring constant gales and downpour
My own favourite I think was 95-96 which had good conditions that went on for ages - I thought of it as "the winter of content" - I think we had -17 for a few days when Taylor Gill Force and Sourmilk Gill froze.
When was it that people were walking from Portinscale to Keswick over the lake? 3 or 4 years ago - we just walked over to the island keeping well clear of the current near the boat landing
IIRC winter 89-90 in the Lakes wasn't great (I didn't have any time off midweek, so can't speak for those times) but it was possible to get out at least without enduring constant gales and downpour
My own favourite I think was 95-96 which had good conditions that went on for ages - I thought of it as "the winter of content" - I think we had -17 for a few days when Taylor Gill Force and Sourmilk Gill froze.
When was it that people were walking from Portinscale to Keswick over the lake? 3 or 4 years ago - we just walked over to the island keeping well clear of the current near the boat landing
In reply to Blizzard:
Has Point Five Gully been climbed this year???
There's a couple of entries in the logbook but suspect not actually 2014 (given some of the user's other supposed 2014 ascents).
Has Point Five Gully been climbed this year???
There's a couple of entries in the logbook but suspect not actually 2014 (given some of the user's other supposed 2014 ascents).
In reply to TheHurting:
is that it wasn't climbable or the monster cornices were enough to put people off?
Anyway there are two ticks for 2014 in the log book.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=547
is that it wasn't climbable or the monster cornices were enough to put people off?
Anyway there are two ticks for 2014 in the log book.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=547
Post edited at 08:37
In reply to Mr. Lee:
Would that be the Quartz Vein scoop entry - looks more like a bulk listing of things they have done at some point rather than this year?
Would that be the Quartz Vein scoop entry - looks more like a bulk listing of things they have done at some point rather than this year?
In reply to philhilo:
Is it too late to start the "What date will Point Five Gully get climbed this winter?" thread?
My guess is 1st May.
Is it too late to start the "What date will Point Five Gully get climbed this winter?" thread?
My guess is 1st May.
In reply to CurlyStevo:
It hasn't come in to condition all season. Maybe those log entries are late additions of climbs done earlier?
It hasn't come in to condition all season. Maybe those log entries are late additions of climbs done earlier?
In reply to TheHurting:
Would it not have been climbable in the same 3 day window about 2 weeks ago that orion face and lots of other hard climbs in that area were done in apparently very good conditions?
(if you were brave enough to risk point 5 with the cornices)
Would it not have been climbable in the same 3 day window about 2 weeks ago that orion face and lots of other hard climbs in that area were done in apparently very good conditions?
(if you were brave enough to risk point 5 with the cornices)
Post edited at 14:58
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Winter Conditions
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are...
25 Apr
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