Since Thursday of last week we have had a sustained thaw with rain at all levels until this morning. Lots of snow has been washed away but there is a lot there and plenty is still there.
Today I climbed Thompson's Route which was well formed but not yet frozen. The snow in the last few metres was re-freezing though and it will be solid by tomorrow I think.
From what I could see Orion Direct and Zero Gully are still complete but the Minus Gullies are washed out. Hadrians Wall is very fat still as well as Smith's Route. Observatory Buttress, Tower Scoop and the Tower Cascades were climbed today.
The ice routes on the flank of Tower Ridge are no longer there but higher up there is still lots of ice. Gremlins looks excellent and is not often formed.
The great ridges (including Ledge Route) are all snowy still apart from Castle Ridge which just has snow on the big ledges and now a dusting of fresh snow.
Snow cover starts at the CIC Hut and is extensive and deep. The big snow gullies are very full and the cornices not as extensive as they were. Generally the cornices appear to be smaller and more stable however I certainly did not see all of them. It would be tricky climbing out of Number Three Gully but I don't think much more of the cornice will fall off in the cold weather over the next few days.
Happy climbing. It would be good to hear what you get up to over the coming cold days.
Mike Pescod
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