In reply to Patrick Clissold:
I'm just gonna give you my honest opinion regarding grades:
Old school Yosemite climbers were ( and still are ) awesome crack and off width climbers, so cracks and off widths feel really hard. 5,10 is meant to be about e1 but 5.10 Yosemite crack will feel miles harder.
El cap base routes are particularly sand bagged, Sacherer Crack 5.10a (HVS / E1) is nails and would be about E3 in the UK.
Also long off width pitches are hard to protect unless you have massive cams or specialist off width gear, so can be bold and scary.
In contrast routes that are more UK style tend to be pretty straight forward, but there aren't that many.
Offset cams are really useful on loads of routes, especially those with pin scars.
Enjoy!
Post edited at 04:20