UKC

Just started using a beastmaker 1000. Tried to get through the easiest workout routine on the app and got about 4 out of 18 sets of the "5A" circuit before being completely shut down. Not interested in whinging about grades, they are what they are, but can anyone do a full circuit and how does their outside regular grade compare?

For my comparison, I reckon I'm about 6a in a couple of goes these days and "retro flashed" a fingery F6b+ at the weekend.

Interested how others compare?

In reply to Mutl3y:

Look on the bright side, your technique must be better than you thought if there is a big discrepancy between what you actually climb and your ability in an isolation workout

In reply to Mutl3y:

Totally agree with you. I find it really tough for supposedly 5A

In reply to Mutl3y:

Surely that's the idea though? It wouldn't do anything for you if you found it easy.

In reply to Reach>Talent:

No one has ever accused me of having technique before!

In reply to MischaHY:

I think the training gains would be the same regardless of the grade.

Only posted this to see how folks beastmaker v real grades compare. Anyone got a comparison? Like I'd be surprised if anyone who can finish the 5A circuit can't climb 7A in the wild.

In reply to Mutl3y:

You should try the 6c on the 2000, eeeeek

In reply to Mutl3y:

I posted a similar post a few years ago. My main irritation with it is struggling to know where to start because I can't start at the beginning. Oh and I've bouldered v4 outside and in, 6c+ onsight inside and out and e3. So although not amazing I'm pretty sure I cold climb 5a.

Does anyone have any advice for real finger board beginners? any programs?

In reply to puppythedog:



I have Neil Gresham's work out for big guys and I use a pair of leg loops with a bungee cord attached which enebles me to do the full sets.

E

In reply to Enty:

I googled that but no luck, is it a program?

In reply to puppythedog:

Let me try find it - I have it on file - somewhere!!

E

In reply to puppythedog:

Ok, found it - I'm afraid it's only a pull-up session and not strictly a finger board session, but I remember i used to do it on the finger board using different holds. It's that long since I did it
If you email me I'll send the file.

E

In reply to puppythedog:




I adapt the metolius training guides

In reply to ankyo:

After reading this today, I thought it would give it a try. I'm not really a boulder, but have managed font 7a outside, and flashed a few F7a's at the local wall (either soft or suited me). I did the 5A workout and thought it was pretty stiff for 5, but perhaps not out of line with climbing a circuit or long problem? The harder ones I looked at were as beastly as advertised I though.

In reply to Mutl3y:

Are these routines supposed to be the grade they are given or are they intended to be something for someone already at that grade to work at as they would a boulder problem (failing a lot to begin with) until they succeed and can move on to the next (harder) one?

As in, here's the routine for a 5A climber who doesn't want to be a 5A climber in a months time?

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:

I'm not really sure. 5A beast maker is so far beyond what I can do but I am absolutely not a 5A climber.

I wouldn't mind but it's the entry level circuit so I'm forced to make my own routine up which involves getting pen and paper out. Oh well no one ever said achieving your dreams should be easy.

In reply to Enty:

Thanks Enty, dropped you a perfunctory mail so that you have my address. Inspired by this thread I popped myself onto the blasted thing a bit this evening and I thin pull ups may be the way to go, maybe one good hand one poor one as away forward.

Looking forward to reading what Neil Gresham has to say.

In reply to puppythedog:
I have this Gresham pull-up routine www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=530784&v=1#x7134317 -scroll about 2/3 down. Is that the one you're looking for?

In reply to Mutl3y:

I agree 100%... stopped using it after about 3 days!

In reply to Mutl3y:
The grades are aspirational, I.e. If you climb Font 5a, then the 5a session is the one to help you progress. Otherwise, just forget the numbers and progress through the circuits as you get stronger..
I saw a grade progression from just doing the 5a session a few times a week, but think I'm going to be on the 1000 for quite a while before progressing to the 2000.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Like I said in OP I am categorically not a 5A boulderer tho.

For what it's worth I have been running a routine a few times a week using the app for timings. My routine is leagues easier than the 5A circuit though. Two sets on jugs, one set four finger deep, LH jug, RH something else, easy sloper. Do three laps of this and change the something else from three finger deep, two finger deep and four finger "easy" ledge.

I have seen substantial improvements in a short space of time by doing this during a period where I am unable to do any other training. Made short work of another fingery F6B+ recently.

Point is/was that the entry level routine (and I really don't care what it is called or the grade) will shut down most people who are climbing substantially and consistently harder than F5A. Ergo, there is a gap in the routines that should include easy things such as what I've been doing.

In reply to Mutl3y:
Well I set my beastmaker up yesterday, having not touched it for a couple of years and got my bumbum firmly spanked.
Tried the easiest routine for the 2000 (6C+) and only got to level 5 out of about 18 levels.

I'll be trying to adapt the easiest 1000 routine onto the 2000 board tomorrow.

I'd dedicated an hour to finger larding but only lasted about 15 minutes.
Oh well it's official, I'm weak and fat!


Edit- brilliant my predictive text thinks fingerboarding is fingerlarding. How apt.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Erm...dumb question but can someone provide a link to these routines maybe? I can't find them anywhere :oS

In reply to Mutl3y:

Does anyone want to sell me their Beastmaker 1000?

Cheers,

E

In reply to Mutl3y:

The routines are on an app which you have to pay for I'm afraid.

regarding the grades being aspirational: I'd be really surprised if there was a 6a boulder problem I could not get up because of finger strength. I'm a beginner to fingerboards but not to climbing and I think the opening routines on the app are too hard an dthere is a gap .

In reply to Si dH:

https://www.climbingworks.com/files/public/Training_Articles/beastmaker_fin...

The 5A routine is 7 reps of 7 sec hangs with 3 sec rest of holds 1, 1, 8, 6, 4, middle sloper. 2:30 rest between each set.
3 laps of these 6 sets.
6:00 rest between laps.

I really rate the beastmaker and find the timings on the app useful (though free apps probably do the same) but the routines are next to useless for me.

,

In reply to Mutl3y:

Cheers, although not what I think you're all discussing that's quite useful.

In reply to Si dH:

Yep it's an app. I think it's only on iOS though (or at least that used to be the case) and it's £1.49.
The routines are good but obviously nails, and you can customize your own routines.
I'm sure there are plenty of free apps about that are just as good but I don't mind giving them an extra £1.49 when they've had the decency to make the best fingerboard out there

The idea is that if it's too hard, set up some assistance (e.g. bungee, pulley and weight). Use assistance to complete the workout, as much as it takes, then progress by decreasing the resistance.

I agree that the workouts on the app are very difficult, but that's the idea isn't it?!

Figure out how to set up assistance, stick with it until you can complete the workout, and I'd be surprised if you don't notice huge differences in your climbing.

Another good app is the ClimbCoach one. Slightly more realistic to complete them without assistance I thought.

In reply to Mutl3y:

Well I tried the 5+ workout today and got spanked again, how the hell I ever climbed F7B in the past I have no idea.
I'm going to have to add some assistance into it now as ged stated
Oh well.

In reply to Mutl3y:
I've seen this question posted on climbing forums a couple of times and the concensus is indeed that the grades dont seem to match what most people climb elsewhere. Climbing grades wrong shocker. hahaha.

Its a good app because it makes you do some hangs that you might not and gives you a set to work through in a session. Take the grade with a pinch of salt and if your new to fingerboards take some heart, most people take a few tries before their heads 'get it'.

Good point, it really pinpointed an imbalance between right and left on back 3, and I was able to isolate the weakness and work on it.