UKC

I can't find any route description beyond the dreaded ambiguous red line from an awkward angle. I believe there is a description in the 'Alpine Club Valais guide', but also cannot find this guide anywhere. Any HELPFUL route description or information would be appreciated. Looking to climb this in the next month.

In reply to thrillseekerz:

Don't know whether it will be HELPFUL, but if you drop me an email with an email address that can take attachments I can send you a scan of a very old version of the Valais guide that does include this route.

No guarantees that it is true, accurate or remotely up to date, but for what it is worth, you are welcome to it.

In reply to thrillseekerz:

Hi. Climbed this route in August 92. A bit black and scratchy then so most features we climbed past will be well covered at this time of year.

The key is to realise the route tends rightwards.
Gain the upper glacier ( worth checking out in the light if possible, an awkward rock band to cross in the dark ).
Climb the 50 degree ice field to its top right edge.
Climb the couloir to its top.
Several rock bands cross the top of the couloir, bypass (most) by a rightwards detour.
After the couloir fades out follow as direct a line to the top as possible or trend right to gain the Zmutt ridge about 100m from the summit.

Any attempt at a more detailed description will only confuse.

The grade is very conditions dependent. Don't expect to find much fixed gear and take at least 6 thin pegs to make rock belays if necessary.

A nice way to climb an iconic mountain, don't expect any crowds till the descent. As you posted, it is difficult to get a lot of info (cf the Heckmeir or Walker Spur). The relatively few people who have done it usually either have an epic or a romp up neve.