UKC

Hi

I'm taking a large person climbing who I think would benefit from additional support from a sling used as a kind of chest harness. I've seen people do this before but I don't know how they set it up. Any ideas?

In reply to iamaclimber:
Parisian baudrier.

I once brought someone down from very close to the summit of Mont Blanc with this.
I once brought someone down from very close to the summit of Mont Blanc with this.

Put a sling round your left arm (or the left arm of your victim)
Loop the rest of the sling round Victim's body, finishing in front
Pass through loop around arm
Tie off in semi-figure of 8
Put screwgate krab through exposed loop

Rather less painful with old style thick sling, but will still work in a pinch with modern thin slings.

In reply to iamaclimber:

Some way down, a diagram that illustrates this :

http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/13SelfRescueSenarios2.htm

In reply to Simon4:


If the person if large a 120cm sling can be too small for a parisian. So you might need to extend it or use a pair of slings and the cross-over method (picture on the site point to by Simon).

I assume he/she will only be seconding?

In reply to David Coley:
Yes, you might need to do some improvisation from the basic technique. It is also best to practice this before needing it in anger, when I brought this person down from MB summit. Clothes will also make a difference, especially in Winter. I had to practice it (in a blizzard), on myself before I was confident to fit it to him, while my large American partner held him to stop something stupid happening. This may not have been the ideal practice environment.

Certainly not a good idea for leading, should do at a pinch for say crossing a glacier where you think there is a low but definite risk of crevasses. A lightweight harness is of course better if you have one.

In reply to David Coley:


I prefer a simple noose for them.

In reply to iamaclimber:

Would you then clip the screwgate that brings together the slings, into the main waist harness?

In reply to iamaclimber:

No, you would tie on through both points of attachment, ie put your figure of eight in the rope, ( with a longer tail) thread through the harness as normal, then through the chest attachment. Then back to the knot and rethread your figure of eight as normal

In reply to Simon4:

Useful page there! One or two things that are new to me. Thanks

In reply to iamaclimber:

Well normally you would be doing this because you don't have a harness for some reason.

You could also combine it with a Dulfer seat to make a full body harness (of sorts).

In reply to jon:


You bad, bad person Jon.

In any case, if they are from Paris it should be a Guillotine.