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Just starting things off until I get a chance to do the stats later on.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Cheers Nomics for this - hope you're out and about enjoying the weather?
Goal for the week - more mileage than usual. Achieved.
Mon - Boulder room was emptyish. Just had fun trying hard (for me) stuff until - foot popped on a V6 and jaw planted a big hold below my head. Tongue bit clean through and one chipped tooth. Good session till then.
Tue - Boulder room. Kept moving, much better on the overhangs. Foot on campus. 2m30s/2m/1m30s/1m20s with same rests. x2
Wed - Rest
Thu - Boulder room. Easy warm up, then under the roof but knee sore. Tried the V6 for a while. Foot on Campus 3m/2m/1m. Battered at this point but top roped 3 6bs I hadn't been on. Definite improvement. Back in boulder room and try the V6 starting moves again.
Fri - Rest due to being mullered.
Sat - Robin Hood and Cratcliffe. No energy, bouldered appallingly but the mission was to improve footwork. Don't feel like I got anywhere, the friction was shocking on the slabs. Or maybe it was me. Highlight? Flashing that chipped hold ladder called Vandals but from a low static start at least. Yes, I was that bad. 9am till 4pm, so pretty knackered.
Sun - Hungover. I went out on the beer for the first time this year. Urgh. Yoga in a bit.
Dentist wasn't impressed with the hole in my tongue or the chipped tooth but at the moment it feels like it's been re-pierced, which is pretty cool actually.
It's been pointed out (and I agree) that my footwork is neat enough but my weight transference and body movement is pretty rubbish. I'm not very flexible either. In fact I'd say it's the by far the biggest thing holding back my climbing, hence, the trying to up the mileage. Can't spend ages on routes indoors as it just trashes the knees and they need saving for outdoors, which is why I'm doing foot on campusing for PE instead of 4x4s. It's frustrating but upped the first go to 3min from 2min a couple of weeks back, so 50% better already. It showed on one of the 6bs, were I managed another 5 moves after getting pumped That was a right surprise. Alex Fry scribbled some stuff down on a bit of paper for me last week, so between that and what Ally said, I feel like I have a plan somewhat.
Need to set some goals, had a mind to up the three E1s this year to three E3s but then yesterday the rock kicked my butt hard. Rock may not care if you're male/female, young/old or black/white but it sure as hell cares about footwork. It felt like all the friction had gone and for me, grit season is over for now.
Cheers Nomics for this - hope you're out and about enjoying the weather?
Goal for the week - more mileage than usual. Achieved.
Mon - Boulder room was emptyish. Just had fun trying hard (for me) stuff until - foot popped on a V6 and jaw planted a big hold below my head. Tongue bit clean through and one chipped tooth. Good session till then.
Tue - Boulder room. Kept moving, much better on the overhangs. Foot on campus. 2m30s/2m/1m30s/1m20s with same rests. x2
Wed - Rest
Thu - Boulder room. Easy warm up, then under the roof but knee sore. Tried the V6 for a while. Foot on Campus 3m/2m/1m. Battered at this point but top roped 3 6bs I hadn't been on. Definite improvement. Back in boulder room and try the V6 starting moves again.
Fri - Rest due to being mullered.
Sat - Robin Hood and Cratcliffe. No energy, bouldered appallingly but the mission was to improve footwork. Don't feel like I got anywhere, the friction was shocking on the slabs. Or maybe it was me. Highlight? Flashing that chipped hold ladder called Vandals but from a low static start at least. Yes, I was that bad. 9am till 4pm, so pretty knackered.
Sun - Hungover. I went out on the beer for the first time this year. Urgh. Yoga in a bit.
Dentist wasn't impressed with the hole in my tongue or the chipped tooth but at the moment it feels like it's been re-pierced, which is pretty cool actually.
It's been pointed out (and I agree) that my footwork is neat enough but my weight transference and body movement is pretty rubbish. I'm not very flexible either. In fact I'd say it's the by far the biggest thing holding back my climbing, hence, the trying to up the mileage. Can't spend ages on routes indoors as it just trashes the knees and they need saving for outdoors, which is why I'm doing foot on campusing for PE instead of 4x4s. It's frustrating but upped the first go to 3min from 2min a couple of weeks back, so 50% better already. It showed on one of the 6bs, were I managed another 5 moves after getting pumped That was a right surprise. Alex Fry scribbled some stuff down on a bit of paper for me last week, so between that and what Ally said, I feel like I have a plan somewhat.
Need to set some goals, had a mind to up the three E1s this year to three E3s but then yesterday the rock kicked my butt hard. Rock may not care if you're male/female, young/old or black/white but it sure as hell cares about footwork. It felt like all the friction had gone and for me, grit season is over for now.
Post edited at 18:03
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks nomics, you're a star!
The idea that I might go out again today is moving into fantasy, so I will post now.
A great week, back to some kind of regular form, and some fantastic scenery along the way.
M - 5 m
T - 10.3 miles total, west along the coast path to the trig point at Navax Head and back. Amazingly windy. Great view of Gwithian and the light house when you get to the trig point.
W - 9.0 miles after work around town
T - nothing!
F - 10 miles total along the coast path, east from Porthtowan towards and beyond St Agnes (ie past Carn Gowla) and back. This was tough.
S - 10.6 miles past Helman Tor
S - 10 miles, fairly flat, felt washed out and tired.
So, 55 miles and about 1470 m of ascent. Not very quick for the most part, but a lot more than I have done for quite a while, and my heel did not hurt too much, too often. I did ask someone about a sports physio to investigate what has been bothering me so much in the last few weeks, but that drew a blank. However, another lead seems promising, so hopefully I will get to see someone soon.
I would like now to keep up the distance, and do a bit of hill work and speed work. I think the idea of a BGR in May is unrealistic now. It is salutary to witness the drop-off in fitness that a few weeks of injury, illness and slackness can induce. But, hey ho, let's look ahead. The plan at the moment is for my wife and I to head for the lakes in May and walk legs 3 and 4 of the the BGR, logistically somehow, then for me to go up again, probably in July or August, and give the whole thing another go alone.
Thanks nomics, you're a star!
The idea that I might go out again today is moving into fantasy, so I will post now.
A great week, back to some kind of regular form, and some fantastic scenery along the way.
M - 5 m
T - 10.3 miles total, west along the coast path to the trig point at Navax Head and back. Amazingly windy. Great view of Gwithian and the light house when you get to the trig point.
W - 9.0 miles after work around town
T - nothing!
F - 10 miles total along the coast path, east from Porthtowan towards and beyond St Agnes (ie past Carn Gowla) and back. This was tough.
S - 10.6 miles past Helman Tor
S - 10 miles, fairly flat, felt washed out and tired.
So, 55 miles and about 1470 m of ascent. Not very quick for the most part, but a lot more than I have done for quite a while, and my heel did not hurt too much, too often. I did ask someone about a sports physio to investigate what has been bothering me so much in the last few weeks, but that drew a blank. However, another lead seems promising, so hopefully I will get to see someone soon.
I would like now to keep up the distance, and do a bit of hill work and speed work. I think the idea of a BGR in May is unrealistic now. It is salutary to witness the drop-off in fitness that a few weeks of injury, illness and slackness can induce. But, hey ho, let's look ahead. The plan at the moment is for my wife and I to head for the lakes in May and walk legs 3 and 4 of the the BGR, logistically somehow, then for me to go up again, probably in July or August, and give the whole thing another go alone.
Post edited at 18:36
In reply to Nomics4sale: Cheers for starting the thread.
mbh: looks like a really good week. I had a quick boulder at Helman Tor before a mates wedding, is really nice scenery around there.
A couple of jogs this week, really helping to clear the head and retain sanity. Home stretch, will be back in UK in 3 weeks, can't wait!
M:
T:
W:
T: Run 3.8 miles @ 8.53
F:
S:
S: Run 5 miles @ 8.53
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University (59 % completed!)
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
mbh: looks like a really good week. I had a quick boulder at Helman Tor before a mates wedding, is really nice scenery around there.
A couple of jogs this week, really helping to clear the head and retain sanity. Home stretch, will be back in UK in 3 weeks, can't wait!
M:
T:
W:
T: Run 3.8 miles @ 8.53
F:
S:
S: Run 5 miles @ 8.53
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University (59 % completed!)
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to Nomics4sale:
m 16.6 miles total (am: 10.3 7:45 pace.. Pm: 6.3 lakes and river loop 8:00 pace)
t 13.32 miles total (am: 4.1 around the lake, 8's. pm: 8 x 1k at the track, 200 jog recov, 1k is 3:15-3:20)
w 16.5 miles total (am: 10.3 7:38 pace usual loop. Pm: 1.5 miles warm up, 4 miles at 5:52 pace, 0.5% incline, 0.7 miles cool down)
t 16 mile trail run Appalachian trail 1000m ascent Very technical underfoot and snow and ice…
f 13.2 mile road run 6:55 pacelongish loop.. Felt really tired
s am : 9.8 mile raod run in Maine.. pm 2 mile hike in deep snow
s 15.07 mile hilly road run in Maine, 400m ascent 7:45 pace
3rd 100+ mile week in a row, but steady week now as 3 days skiing in Maine and a key race (10 miler) at the weekend.. honeymoon at a log cabin in Maine so can't spend all week running..
m 16.6 miles total (am: 10.3 7:45 pace.. Pm: 6.3 lakes and river loop 8:00 pace)
t 13.32 miles total (am: 4.1 around the lake, 8's. pm: 8 x 1k at the track, 200 jog recov, 1k is 3:15-3:20)
w 16.5 miles total (am: 10.3 7:38 pace usual loop. Pm: 1.5 miles warm up, 4 miles at 5:52 pace, 0.5% incline, 0.7 miles cool down)
t 16 mile trail run Appalachian trail 1000m ascent Very technical underfoot and snow and ice…
f 13.2 mile road run 6:55 pacelongish loop.. Felt really tired
s am : 9.8 mile raod run in Maine.. pm 2 mile hike in deep snow
s 15.07 mile hilly road run in Maine, 400m ascent 7:45 pace
3rd 100+ mile week in a row, but steady week now as 3 days skiing in Maine and a key race (10 miler) at the weekend.. honeymoon at a log cabin in Maine so can't spend all week running..
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Good week.
M cycle commute, then bouldering at Bloc in the evening. Long slow session trying out a lot more of the blues
T cycle commute, fingerboard session in evening.
W cycl commute, then afternoon at Avon. Got no-where on a boulder start E2, onsighted a nice but quite necky E2, then did a 6c sport route at New Quarry. The climbing was fine but I got suckered into going the wrong way and missed the onsight. Got it second go, and in the nick of time as it started to rain.
T cycle commute, then short session at Bloc. Got the 6b I'd wussed out of last week - seemed v easy this time.
F weather horrid so all outdoor plans shelved. Instead, absolute killer thrash session doing a huge number of circuits & hard part-circuits at TCA. Was so knackered by the ed it wasn't true!
S see above - definitely a rest day!
S Welsh sandstone at Tirpentwys. Sadly the 7b+ was wet, but the lovely 7a was (mostly) dry. Nice venue, just wish the grade range was up a bit.
coming week could be a busy one at work. Hope to get outdoors once but depends on weather - Avon and wet do not go together very safely.
Good week.
M cycle commute, then bouldering at Bloc in the evening. Long slow session trying out a lot more of the blues
T cycle commute, fingerboard session in evening.
W cycl commute, then afternoon at Avon. Got no-where on a boulder start E2, onsighted a nice but quite necky E2, then did a 6c sport route at New Quarry. The climbing was fine but I got suckered into going the wrong way and missed the onsight. Got it second go, and in the nick of time as it started to rain.
T cycle commute, then short session at Bloc. Got the 6b I'd wussed out of last week - seemed v easy this time.
F weather horrid so all outdoor plans shelved. Instead, absolute killer thrash session doing a huge number of circuits & hard part-circuits at TCA. Was so knackered by the ed it wasn't true!
S see above - definitely a rest day!
S Welsh sandstone at Tirpentwys. Sadly the 7b+ was wet, but the lovely 7a was (mostly) dry. Nice venue, just wish the grade range was up a bit.
coming week could be a busy one at work. Hope to get outdoors once but depends on weather - Avon and wet do not go together very safely.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Short on time, so I've not thought of a non "look at me" way to post it but hell, why not, my big LTG of the past 2 years or so was achieved 26 days late. Whoot!!!
Short on time, so I've not thought of a non "look at me" way to post it but hell, why not, my big LTG of the past 2 years or so was achieved 26 days late. Whoot!!!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=582211
Summary of last week:
AJM: Still livin' the dream! Watch out for your bonce though.
JimmyKay: Bouldering and board. Bouldering and board.... you'll be ripping up the crag when you get on it.
ER: Not sure if you're posting this week. Hope the finger's responding well to rest and treatment.
hms: That was a good 6 days, a rest day was definitely in order. How's the partner/weather/work thing going?
mbh: Good to see you're picking up the mileage again. Have you really lost a lot of fitness? Looks pretty fast to me. Are you sure you should be going back to it as much as you are? If the heel is still hurting should you get it sorted before doing too much?
Alun: Get out on the bike much this week?
IainRUK: Congratulations! Guessing she's a top runner too?
Joughton: Happy birthday for last week! Is your dad or brother doing an climbing challenge thing for CAC? John E mentioned an Oughton is doing something at MCC.
mr chewy: awesome week! You're climbing well outdoors, who cares about indoors?
Dandan82: On fire! Hope the finger is getting better. Are you icing it?
grubes: How was Wales? Any more riding? Got a time goal for the big ride?
mattrm: good week for climbing. Still doing the monster dish tucks routine?
Nomics4sale: get on lead at malham you weak pathetic wimp.
Nick Russell: That was a good week for swimming and climbing.
Ally Smith: Good training midweek followed by good climbing performance on Sunday. Nice. Hope the shoulder's ok.
Just Tintin: How was the stupid muddy 10k obstacle race?
Exile: Yet again awesome use of time available and some great training.
PPG: bouldering enduro week gone well? You'll be powering up the 7's in Turkey!
AndrewW: Progress on your project?
Tyler: Malham with the Fox? Progress on your project?
biscuit: cheers re the race . Sounds like you're getting on well with the bike, lots of quick hilly miles and the climbing's going well too. Summer looks good for you .
Luke Owens: Hope you're over the illness and back on form.
Sankey: Hang on in there....
spud_23: good effort bouldering.
Si Cox: ebbs and flows, motivation will return soon enough. (and btw I didn't get any PM!).
Humperdink: I don't really know what those times mean but that's impressive mileage!
Finally, apologies for getting the week number wrong. It's week 367 innit.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=582211
Summary of last week:
AJM: Still livin' the dream! Watch out for your bonce though.
JimmyKay: Bouldering and board. Bouldering and board.... you'll be ripping up the crag when you get on it.
ER: Not sure if you're posting this week. Hope the finger's responding well to rest and treatment.
hms: That was a good 6 days, a rest day was definitely in order. How's the partner/weather/work thing going?
mbh: Good to see you're picking up the mileage again. Have you really lost a lot of fitness? Looks pretty fast to me. Are you sure you should be going back to it as much as you are? If the heel is still hurting should you get it sorted before doing too much?
Alun: Get out on the bike much this week?
IainRUK: Congratulations! Guessing she's a top runner too?
Joughton: Happy birthday for last week! Is your dad or brother doing an climbing challenge thing for CAC? John E mentioned an Oughton is doing something at MCC.
mr chewy: awesome week! You're climbing well outdoors, who cares about indoors?
Dandan82: On fire! Hope the finger is getting better. Are you icing it?
grubes: How was Wales? Any more riding? Got a time goal for the big ride?
mattrm: good week for climbing. Still doing the monster dish tucks routine?
Nomics4sale: get on lead at malham you weak pathetic wimp.
Nick Russell: That was a good week for swimming and climbing.
Ally Smith: Good training midweek followed by good climbing performance on Sunday. Nice. Hope the shoulder's ok.
Just Tintin: How was the stupid muddy 10k obstacle race?
Exile: Yet again awesome use of time available and some great training.
PPG: bouldering enduro week gone well? You'll be powering up the 7's in Turkey!
AndrewW: Progress on your project?
Tyler: Malham with the Fox? Progress on your project?
biscuit: cheers re the race . Sounds like you're getting on well with the bike, lots of quick hilly miles and the climbing's going well too. Summer looks good for you .
Luke Owens: Hope you're over the illness and back on form.
Sankey: Hang on in there....
spud_23: good effort bouldering.
Si Cox: ebbs and flows, motivation will return soon enough. (and btw I didn't get any PM!).
Humperdink: I don't really know what those times mean but that's impressive mileage!
Finally, apologies for getting the week number wrong. It's week 367 innit.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Cheers Nomics.
Well done AJM It was bound to happen soon.
Not such a great week this week.I must remember that i am not 19 like some of the people i climb/train with and i don't bounce back like they do.
Brilliant session on Wednesday doing pyramid triples.
6a 6b 6c+
6c+(OS)7a 7a+ ( fail 2/3rds OS attempt)
7a+ 7a (fail 2/3rd OS attempt) 6c
6c+ 6c 6a+
The 7a in the 2nd set i'd tried once before about 6 weeks ago and hated it. I cruised it this time. The 7a+ fail just felt hard, fair enough, but the 7a fail was because i buggered up my feet half way up.It'd go next time.
I felt fit, confident and like i was climbing well. Not what i expected.
Bouldered on Thursday. It was a strange new set with very easy grades up to about V4. V5 felt about OK and V6 hard. Got to the last move on 3 V6's but quickly gave up on a few others. End result of the session though was very sore fingers. They reacted very badly and swelled up and i was really worried for a couple of days. They seem to be OK now though, or at least back to the level that they were at on Wednesday.
Routes only for a while, but no bad thing. I like the triples. I was feeling really strong, then got that horrible gassed out feeling where no matter what i was pulling on it felt like grim death for the last 2 reps.
This week i will:
Stop smoking - 4th attempt in as many weeks.
Run 4miles 4x with a goal of getting back to 7min miles. Currently at 31m.
Climb 4 times - this will be a mix of whatever i can get in but i'm in work 3 times and then got a kid free weekend so 4 doesn't seem unreasonable if i include training.
Big bike ride at the weekend. Maybe even a club intro ride - gulp !
Lose some lard - currently 69 kg and 16% fat. Although the scales have been adding 1% onto whatever i am every year since my 35th birthday. As i can still just about see some remnants of a 6 pack ( in the right light of course )i reckon i'm really about 13-14% but i'll stick with the scales as a measure. Tidying my diet up will be hard as i'm likely to eat more crap whilst giving up smoking so the hard running in the mornings is my penance until i get it under control.
Cheers Nomics.
Well done AJM It was bound to happen soon.
Not such a great week this week.I must remember that i am not 19 like some of the people i climb/train with and i don't bounce back like they do.
Brilliant session on Wednesday doing pyramid triples.
6a 6b 6c+
6c+(OS)7a 7a+ ( fail 2/3rds OS attempt)
7a+ 7a (fail 2/3rd OS attempt) 6c
6c+ 6c 6a+
The 7a in the 2nd set i'd tried once before about 6 weeks ago and hated it. I cruised it this time. The 7a+ fail just felt hard, fair enough, but the 7a fail was because i buggered up my feet half way up.It'd go next time.
I felt fit, confident and like i was climbing well. Not what i expected.
Bouldered on Thursday. It was a strange new set with very easy grades up to about V4. V5 felt about OK and V6 hard. Got to the last move on 3 V6's but quickly gave up on a few others. End result of the session though was very sore fingers. They reacted very badly and swelled up and i was really worried for a couple of days. They seem to be OK now though, or at least back to the level that they were at on Wednesday.
Routes only for a while, but no bad thing. I like the triples. I was feeling really strong, then got that horrible gassed out feeling where no matter what i was pulling on it felt like grim death for the last 2 reps.
This week i will:
Stop smoking - 4th attempt in as many weeks.
Run 4miles 4x with a goal of getting back to 7min miles. Currently at 31m.
Climb 4 times - this will be a mix of whatever i can get in but i'm in work 3 times and then got a kid free weekend so 4 doesn't seem unreasonable if i include training.
Big bike ride at the weekend. Maybe even a club intro ride - gulp !
Lose some lard - currently 69 kg and 16% fat. Although the scales have been adding 1% onto whatever i am every year since my 35th birthday. As i can still just about see some remnants of a 6 pack ( in the right light of course )i reckon i'm really about 13-14% but i'll stick with the scales as a measure. Tidying my diet up will be hard as i'm likely to eat more crap whilst giving up smoking so the hard running in the mornings is my penance until i get it under control.
In reply to biscuit:
have you tried one of those e-fag things? A chap I climb with sometimes uses one with great success. He doesn't want to give up nicotine, but also doesn't want to sludge up his lungs.
have you tried one of those e-fag things? A chap I climb with sometimes uses one with great success. He doesn't want to give up nicotine, but also doesn't want to sludge up his lungs.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I knew this week was going to be a tricky one as I was on a tough course with two professional exams at the end.
Thur: Gave myself the evening off and went to Depot in Nottingham, bumped into a friend who gave me a torso ended up doing far more than anticipated so left with no skin....
S: Malham upper tier in the suns with no skin. Fortunately a short day was planned, worked on bottom of my proj, went ok considering. Can consistently do the crux but can't get to it any more
S: Trollers Gill for a social day out, top roped a few things and felt quite worked by the end of the day.
Other: Finger clearing up but still sore and swollen. Eaten out everyday this week even when I returned from course. Nottingham Depot is the best bouldering wall I've ever been to, hard to see how it could be any better.
I knew this week was going to be a tricky one as I was on a tough course with two professional exams at the end.
Thur: Gave myself the evening off and went to Depot in Nottingham, bumped into a friend who gave me a torso ended up doing far more than anticipated so left with no skin....
S: Malham upper tier in the suns with no skin. Fortunately a short day was planned, worked on bottom of my proj, went ok considering. Can consistently do the crux but can't get to it any more
S: Trollers Gill for a social day out, top roped a few things and felt quite worked by the end of the day.
Other: Finger clearing up but still sore and swollen. Eaten out everyday this week even when I returned from course. Nottingham Depot is the best bouldering wall I've ever been to, hard to see how it could be any better.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
M- Board and Core
T- Rest
W- Board and Core
T- Board and Core
F-Nothing (Allowing for cracks behind finger nails to heal.)
S-Nothing (Allowing for cracks behind finger nails to heal.)
S- Brean. 7a first go,7b third go, 7c second go
M- Board and Core
T- Rest
W- Board and Core
T- Board and Core
F-Nothing (Allowing for cracks behind finger nails to heal.)
S-Nothing (Allowing for cracks behind finger nails to heal.)
S- Brean. 7a first go,7b third go, 7c second go
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks Nomics, and congrats AJM!
STG - prepare for trips to Targassone and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a
M - Cycle commute 30km
T - Cycle commute 30km. Power endurance at gym, felt shit
W - Cycle commute 30km.
T - Power endurance at gym, felt good.
F - Nada
S - Wine, food, friends
S - 2x power endurance sessions (morning + evening) on garage wall. Actually enjoyed it.
I was planning on going for a bike ride on Sunday but it was pissing down so decided to play on my home wall for the first time in ages. Ended up being quite good because I could force myself to rest by playing with the nipper. Who knows I might start doing it more often (using my wall, that is, not playing with the nipper).
I did some more commuting on the bike this week which is good. Though I still need to get back into the longer rides.
Thanks Nomics, and congrats AJM!
STG - prepare for trips to Targassone and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a
M - Cycle commute 30km
T - Cycle commute 30km. Power endurance at gym, felt shit
W - Cycle commute 30km.
T - Power endurance at gym, felt good.
F - Nada
S - Wine, food, friends
S - 2x power endurance sessions (morning + evening) on garage wall. Actually enjoyed it.
I was planning on going for a bike ride on Sunday but it was pissing down so decided to play on my home wall for the first time in ages. Ended up being quite good because I could force myself to rest by playing with the nipper. Who knows I might start doing it more often (using my wall, that is, not playing with the nipper).
I did some more commuting on the bike this week which is good. Though I still need to get back into the longer rides.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks Nomics.
STG: complete current project.
MTG: more 7a/7a+ redpoints. 6c onsight.
LTG: redpoint 7b+.
Reasonably active week.
M - fingerboard session.
T - 30 mins run.
W - Climbing outside. Few more failed redpoint attempts at project.
Th - 30 mins run.
F - Climbing outside. Bouldering. Working on long low level traverse. When complete will be around F7a-ish.
S - Session on my woody.
Sn - 40 min run.
Thanks Nomics.
STG: complete current project.
MTG: more 7a/7a+ redpoints. 6c onsight.
LTG: redpoint 7b+.
Reasonably active week.
M - fingerboard session.
T - 30 mins run.
W - Climbing outside. Few more failed redpoint attempts at project.
Th - 30 mins run.
F - Climbing outside. Bouldering. Working on long low level traverse. When complete will be around F7a-ish.
S - Session on my woody.
Sn - 40 min run.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks for doing this weeks! The times are just how long its taken me to run the distance because I'm too lazy to work out the pace! The other times are for the length of reps run and the recovery between them - runners code! eg Tuesday's session below is 5 reps of 3 minutes with 90seconds recovery between them followed by 5 reps of 1 minute with 60seconds recovery between them.
Due to life being what it is I ended up going to France twice this week which meant I had to cram in training on other days:
M: Nothing
Tu: Lunchtime - 5M easy in 33:23, pm Session 5x3min off 90secs then 5x1min off 60secs. 8/9M total
W: Nothing
Th: pm - tried from travelling, 7M steady in 44:15 felt fresh legged
F: am - 5M easy in 34:06, pm - 7/8M steady in 46:47
Sa: am - 5M easy in 33:03, pm - Session 8 min tempo, 90secs jog, 8 x 40sec hill with jog back recovery, 90 secs jog, 8 min tempo. 11M total
Su: am - 2hrs "time on feet" long run. ~16M
Total ~65M which isn't bad as I missed two whole days this week. Looks like I am in the A team for this weekends National Road Relay Championships so going to ease back a bit this week in order to be fresh.
> Humperdink: I don't really know what those times mean but that's impressive mileage!
Thanks for doing this weeks! The times are just how long its taken me to run the distance because I'm too lazy to work out the pace! The other times are for the length of reps run and the recovery between them - runners code! eg Tuesday's session below is 5 reps of 3 minutes with 90seconds recovery between them followed by 5 reps of 1 minute with 60seconds recovery between them.
Due to life being what it is I ended up going to France twice this week which meant I had to cram in training on other days:
M: Nothing
Tu: Lunchtime - 5M easy in 33:23, pm Session 5x3min off 90secs then 5x1min off 60secs. 8/9M total
W: Nothing
Th: pm - tried from travelling, 7M steady in 44:15 felt fresh legged
F: am - 5M easy in 34:06, pm - 7/8M steady in 46:47
Sa: am - 5M easy in 33:03, pm - Session 8 min tempo, 90secs jog, 8 x 40sec hill with jog back recovery, 90 secs jog, 8 min tempo. 11M total
Su: am - 2hrs "time on feet" long run. ~16M
Total ~65M which isn't bad as I missed two whole days this week. Looks like I am in the A team for this weekends National Road Relay Championships so going to ease back a bit this week in order to be fresh.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
STG (June of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
Cycle a few times - Fail- Twice is not a few
Do some thing active while away with work - Tick Trad on the way there bouldering on the way home
Climb a couple of times. - Tick 4 times
M: cycled 10.8km 145m Ascent
T: Depot - Good session. Climbed the none comp problems.
W: Trad 1 route Lead HS onsight with Mattrm ... was very slow and unconfident on the steeper ground. still happy as larry on bould slabs though.
T: Nice walk around pembroke probably a couple of miles
F: bouldering. called into hobson moor on my way past repeated percy 97 and a few things around there.
S: Depot - Entered Nibl think I came last but got a free t-shirt, chalkbag and banner. bouldered for around 3 hours tried on a pair of pinks.
S: rest day really
Cycled to the sports centre to watch the charity climb then to the super market and home.
7k 76m ascent
Nothing overly strenuous but busy every day almost
Next week Goals:
ride my bike
get a climb in somewhere
An okay week but would of liked to get in a proper ride. away with work monday till friday then off to SHAFF friday night. So could be a fairly inactive week.
To all London people I am in hammersmith wednesday and thursday night if anyone fancies a climb? will chuck my stuff in the car incase.
> grubes: How was Wales? Any more riding? Got a time goal for the big ride?
Thanks Nomics. Wales was work but nice. couple of rides. Not time I just want to finish. If I can average 10mph over the whole thing I will be happySTG (June of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
Cycle a few times - Fail- Twice is not a few
Do some thing active while away with work - Tick Trad on the way there bouldering on the way home
Climb a couple of times. - Tick 4 times
M: cycled 10.8km 145m Ascent
T: Depot - Good session. Climbed the none comp problems.
W: Trad 1 route Lead HS onsight with Mattrm ... was very slow and unconfident on the steeper ground. still happy as larry on bould slabs though.
T: Nice walk around pembroke probably a couple of miles
F: bouldering. called into hobson moor on my way past repeated percy 97 and a few things around there.
S: Depot - Entered Nibl think I came last but got a free t-shirt, chalkbag and banner. bouldered for around 3 hours tried on a pair of pinks.
S: rest day really
Cycled to the sports centre to watch the charity climb then to the super market and home.
7k 76m ascent
Nothing overly strenuous but busy every day almost
Next week Goals:
ride my bike
get a climb in somewhere
An okay week but would of liked to get in a proper ride. away with work monday till friday then off to SHAFF friday night. So could be a fairly inactive week.
To all London people I am in hammersmith wednesday and thursday night if anyone fancies a climb? will chuck my stuff in the car incase.
In reply to grubes:
Nibl sounds great! I had no idea it was on, otherwise I might have gone. The freebies sound well worth the trip.
Nibl sounds great! I had no idea it was on, otherwise I might have gone. The freebies sound well worth the trip.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
STG: 7as or quick 7bs in Turkey and France
MTG: 7b and then 7b+ in the UK
LTG: trad
Mon: nowt
Tues: BoulderUK, flashed one V5, worked others and a V6.
Weds: Bowland run to Whitendale and back. 14.6km, 375m ascent. 5.53/km.
Thurs: Malham. TR'ed FEE and Consenting. Failed to lead anything despite partners encouragement.
Fri: Bowland to Wolfhole fig of 8. 20km, 592m ascent. 6.44/km.
Sat: busy few hours at Trollers. TR'ed Jim Grin and Barguest.
Sun am: Whalley Nab trail run. 7.8km, 198m ascent. 6.11/km.
Sun pm: Robin Proctor's. Lead 5+, 6a+, 6c (all done previously) then TR'ed 7a+.
Totally wimped out of leading anything at Malham but on the plus side I'm pleased with how easy the routes I'm top roping feel (and clearly that means I should be leading them). I'm not too worried though as I'll be in Turkey from Sunday next week, where I'll be on the sharp end most of the time.
STG: 7as or quick 7bs in Turkey and France
MTG: 7b and then 7b+ in the UK
LTG: trad
Mon: nowt
Tues: BoulderUK, flashed one V5, worked others and a V6.
Weds: Bowland run to Whitendale and back. 14.6km, 375m ascent. 5.53/km.
Thurs: Malham. TR'ed FEE and Consenting. Failed to lead anything despite partners encouragement.
Fri: Bowland to Wolfhole fig of 8. 20km, 592m ascent. 6.44/km.
Sat: busy few hours at Trollers. TR'ed Jim Grin and Barguest.
Sun am: Whalley Nab trail run. 7.8km, 198m ascent. 6.11/km.
Sun pm: Robin Proctor's. Lead 5+, 6a+, 6c (all done previously) then TR'ed 7a+.
Totally wimped out of leading anything at Malham but on the plus side I'm pleased with how easy the routes I'm top roping feel (and clearly that means I should be leading them). I'm not too worried though as I'll be in Turkey from Sunday next week, where I'll be on the sharp end most of the time.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 1lbs (1lbs loss)
M - 500 dish tucks 30 push ups elbow eccentrics tompr elbow stretch
T - Rest
W - Trad at Paviland
T - Kitchen fitting
F - More kitchen fitting
S - See above
S - General DIY
Been a long week. Finally fitted my kitchen. Which was two back to back 12 hour days. Lots of hard graft. Went tradding with grubes on the Gower. As the two sea cliffs are about 5 minutes apart, I managed to take us to the wrong cliff. But we had a fun little adventure on a weird Hard Severe. Thankfully he didn't seem to bothered that we'd gone to the wrong crag.
Suspect I'll be doing lots of DIY next week as well. Vague goals:
1 climb
1 fingerboard
3 core
3 elbow exercises
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 1lbs (1lbs loss)
M - 500 dish tucks 30 push ups elbow eccentrics tompr elbow stretch
T - Rest
W - Trad at Paviland
T - Kitchen fitting
F - More kitchen fitting
S - See above
S - General DIY
Been a long week. Finally fitted my kitchen. Which was two back to back 12 hour days. Lots of hard graft. Went tradding with grubes on the Gower. As the two sea cliffs are about 5 minutes apart, I managed to take us to the wrong cliff. But we had a fun little adventure on a weird Hard Severe. Thankfully he didn't seem to bothered that we'd gone to the wrong crag.
Suspect I'll be doing lots of DIY next week as well. Vague goals:
1 climb
1 fingerboard
3 core
3 elbow exercises
In reply to grubes:
If it's any consolation, I wasn't feeling the love on the top of that route either. Wasn't a great fall on to all those manky threads and you'd almost certainly have taken a bit of a bashing on the sides of the roof as well. I looked in the guidebook and it was VS in the previous one. I can see why. It's either very top end HS or low end VS. Next time I'll use my apparently awful local knowledge to pick a better crag.
If you really like slabs, I know a couple of good Gower crags for slabs.
> was very slow and unconfident on the steeper ground. still happy as larry on bould slabs though.
If it's any consolation, I wasn't feeling the love on the top of that route either. Wasn't a great fall on to all those manky threads and you'd almost certainly have taken a bit of a bashing on the sides of the roof as well. I looked in the guidebook and it was VS in the previous one. I can see why. It's either very top end HS or low end VS. Next time I'll use my apparently awful local knowledge to pick a better crag.
If you really like slabs, I know a couple of good Gower crags for slabs.
In reply to Humperdink:
Funny, it's a bit different to swimmers code. If we say (e.g.) 5x100m off 1:30, it means you have 1 minute 30 between starting the first one and starting the second, rather than 1:30 rest between them. I suppose the difference is due to not having a good distance measure when running on road (well, gps watches do that now) so doing everything off time makes sense.
> runners code! eg Tuesday's session below is 5 reps of 3 minutes with 90seconds recovery between them followed by 5 reps of 1 minute with 60seconds recovery between them.
Funny, it's a bit different to swimmers code. If we say (e.g.) 5x100m off 1:30, it means you have 1 minute 30 between starting the first one and starting the second, rather than 1:30 rest between them. I suppose the difference is due to not having a good distance measure when running on road (well, gps watches do that now) so doing everything off time makes sense.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
hi there, my first post in here
goals: stay in shape
M - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening 45min spinning, 30min fingerboard with 12kg vest
T - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening 30min circuit board, 30min fingerboard
W - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evenuing rest
T - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening 45min spinning, 30min fingerboard with 12kg vest
F - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening rest
S - stockport session: 6b,6b+,6c,6b+,6b,6b+,6a+,6a,6c,6a+,6c,6b+,6c,6b+,7a+,6b+,6a+,5+
S - rest
do you think this is enough for my goal? chees, Peter
hi there, my first post in here
goals: stay in shape
M - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening 45min spinning, 30min fingerboard with 12kg vest
T - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening 30min circuit board, 30min fingerboard
W - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evenuing rest
T - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening 45min spinning, 30min fingerboard with 12kg vest
F - morning 120 push ups, 4x10 + 4x15 pull ups/evening rest
S - stockport session: 6b,6b+,6c,6b+,6b,6b+,6a+,6a,6c,6a+,6c,6b+,6c,6b+,7a+,6b+,6a+,5+
S - rest
do you think this is enough for my goal? chees, Peter
In reply to benky1979:
Your goal is to "stay in shape" - without knowing what sort of climbing/etc level you define as "in shape" its a bit hard for anyone to comment!
Your goal is to "stay in shape" - without knowing what sort of climbing/etc level you define as "in shape" its a bit hard for anyone to comment!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Hi Nomics,
Stupid and muddy but not unenjoyable…! Got my rather inexperienced sister round alive in two hours so that was all good. And she now believes me that she needs better shoes for Tough Mudder!
M – 30 min run. Bench press 10sets x10reps
T – Site specific training including mixed boulder/lead
W – Lead Brookes. A few 6cs onsight. Too tired for 7a project and running out of time before re-route…
T – Rest
F – Boulder Milton Keynes – knocked out new blue V2-3 circuit and worked some V4-6s
S – Major series 10k – muddy!
S – Morning on the slackline. Then Lead Brookes – felt like I was going through the motions - still too tired for project. GRRRR!
Hi Nomics,
Stupid and muddy but not unenjoyable…! Got my rather inexperienced sister round alive in two hours so that was all good. And she now believes me that she needs better shoes for Tough Mudder!
M – 30 min run. Bench press 10sets x10reps
T – Site specific training including mixed boulder/lead
W – Lead Brookes. A few 6cs onsight. Too tired for 7a project and running out of time before re-route…
T – Rest
F – Boulder Milton Keynes – knocked out new blue V2-3 circuit and worked some V4-6s
S – Major series 10k – muddy!
S – Morning on the slackline. Then Lead Brookes – felt like I was going through the motions - still too tired for project. GRRRR!
In reply to AJM:
Awesome. Congratulations! You have built up a massive base of routes for it, too. Good work.
Awesome. Congratulations! You have built up a massive base of routes for it, too. Good work.
In reply to AJM:
ok fair enough, dont want to put on weight and dont want to go under my current level. would like to start climbing in the 7s finally...
ok fair enough, dont want to put on weight and dont want to go under my current level. would like to start climbing in the 7s finally...
In reply to Quiddity:
Cheers nick!
I was just counting that actually - 119 fr7s and 1 fr8 now, of which something like 39 of the fr7s have been since January.
Cheers nick!
I was just counting that actually - 119 fr7s and 1 fr8 now, of which something like 39 of the fr7s have been since January.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
it was the final round 2 adult girls and 2 over vet girls entered. If you had gone you would of won your catagory easily.
the girl who won the day event at the depot finished 3rd overall ... so took two prizes.
it was the final round 2 adult girls and 2 over vet girls entered. If you had gone you would of won your catagory easily.
the girl who won the day event at the depot finished 3rd overall ... so took two prizes.
In reply to AJM:
Congrats on the 8a! You've worked hard for that, good to see it worked out for you
Wow, that is a decent base! I just took a quick look at mine and have only logged 112 sport routes on here, of any grade.
Congrats on the 8a! You've worked hard for that, good to see it worked out for you
> I was just counting that actually - 119 fr7s and 1 fr8 now, of which something like 39 of the fr7s have been since January.
Wow, that is a decent base! I just took a quick look at mine and have only logged 112 sport routes on here, of any grade.
In reply to benky1979:
Welcome to fit club!
But you just reported a 7a+ at Stockport on Saturday? Depending on your diet, it looks as if the only weight gain is likely to be shoulder muscle!
Welcome to fit club!
> ok fair enough, dont want to put on weight and dont want to go under my current level. would like to start climbing in the 7s finally...
But you just reported a 7a+ at Stockport on Saturday? Depending on your diet, it looks as if the only weight gain is likely to be shoulder muscle!
In reply to benky1979:
benky, it's good to try and do the following with goals, make them SMART:
Specific – target a specific area for improvement.
Measurable – quantify or at least suggest an indicator of progress.
Assignable – specify who will do it.
Realistic – state what results can realistically be achieved, given available resources.
Time-related – specify when the result(s) can be achieved.
For example, I'll maintain weight for the next 3 months.
Or, I'll loose 1lb a week for the next month till I hit 11st 10lbs.
A climbing one would be, aim to climb 30 routes per session.
There's nothing wrong with having a goal like 'climb 7a in the next 3 months'. But a smart one as well makes it much more possible that you'll hit it.
benky, it's good to try and do the following with goals, make them SMART:
Specific – target a specific area for improvement.
Measurable – quantify or at least suggest an indicator of progress.
Assignable – specify who will do it.
Realistic – state what results can realistically be achieved, given available resources.
Time-related – specify when the result(s) can be achieved.
For example, I'll maintain weight for the next 3 months.
Or, I'll loose 1lb a week for the next month till I hit 11st 10lbs.
A climbing one would be, aim to climb 30 routes per session.
There's nothing wrong with having a goal like 'climb 7a in the next 3 months'. But a smart one as well makes it much more possible that you'll hit it.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks Nomics, yes it was a good week
M - Swimming (4.2km). I went for the 2 hour training session today, haven't done those consistently before. Fortunately started with 20 minutes of stretching/core to ease me into it!
T - UCR. Flashed another 7a! And had a decent go at another one and a really vicious 6c+. Got to keep pushing my grades up indoors, I think. Did a short but intense core set after.
W - am 10km run. Timed myself on a 5km segment in the middle - 19:39. Felt awful, I don't run well first thing in the morning.
pm Swimming (3.1km). A good set, never too hard but pretty relentless. The 200m fly in the middle was tough.
T - TCA. Short session, feeling tired.
F - Rest
S, S - Portland.
Another good week - solid training to start then a great weekend in Portland. It's the first time I've been there in good weather! Saturday started at the Cuttings, amongst other things did "The Cutting Edge" (6c+) and "The Holy Hand Grenade" (7a), both second go. Gutted to fall off the last moves of The Holy Hand Grenade on the flash attempt - there's a ledge covered in disappointing/non- holds and I found myself just slapping around until I came off.
Moved to Blacknor North in the afternoon. Had a couple of goes on "England's Dreaming" (7a+) but it was pretty hot and greasy and I was tired. Came back Sunday morning when it was still in the shade and got it first go, putting the clips in. A rest and cooler conditions made a massive difference! Spent most of the rest of the day boulder-hopping across the bottom of Wallsend. Did a couple of routes, then made a hasty retreat as the tide came in. (The cliff isn't tidal per se, but the easiest way out gets blocked off at high tide.)
March goals
Sub-19:00 5k run. Fail, but I now have some benchmarks (19:45 in Ashton Court Parkrun and 19:36 on the flat.)
4 days out on rock. Tick, easy given the good weather we've had.
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. Tick. Got a couple of benchmark times out of it too.
January-March goals
Stick to the training plan. This served a purpose, but I can't claim to have stuck to it!
Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter.
Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most of the 'Staffordshire nose'
At least 2 more E4 attempts.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 96/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
*Progression here is:
1) Get to the top, work out some moves
2) Work out all the moves in isolation, some sequences
3) Overlapping halves
4) Send
> Nick Russell: That was a good week for swimming and climbing.
Thanks Nomics, yes it was a good week
M - Swimming (4.2km). I went for the 2 hour training session today, haven't done those consistently before. Fortunately started with 20 minutes of stretching/core to ease me into it!
T - UCR. Flashed another 7a! And had a decent go at another one and a really vicious 6c+. Got to keep pushing my grades up indoors, I think. Did a short but intense core set after.
W - am 10km run. Timed myself on a 5km segment in the middle - 19:39. Felt awful, I don't run well first thing in the morning.
pm Swimming (3.1km). A good set, never too hard but pretty relentless. The 200m fly in the middle was tough.
T - TCA. Short session, feeling tired.
F - Rest
S, S - Portland.
Another good week - solid training to start then a great weekend in Portland. It's the first time I've been there in good weather! Saturday started at the Cuttings, amongst other things did "The Cutting Edge" (6c+) and "The Holy Hand Grenade" (7a), both second go. Gutted to fall off the last moves of The Holy Hand Grenade on the flash attempt - there's a ledge covered in disappointing/non- holds and I found myself just slapping around until I came off.
Moved to Blacknor North in the afternoon. Had a couple of goes on "England's Dreaming" (7a+) but it was pretty hot and greasy and I was tired. Came back Sunday morning when it was still in the shade and got it first go, putting the clips in. A rest and cooler conditions made a massive difference! Spent most of the rest of the day boulder-hopping across the bottom of Wallsend. Did a couple of routes, then made a hasty retreat as the tide came in. (The cliff isn't tidal per se, but the easiest way out gets blocked off at high tide.)
March goals
Sub-19:00 5k run. Fail, but I now have some benchmarks (19:45 in Ashton Court Parkrun and 19:36 on the flat.)
4 days out on rock. Tick, easy given the good weather we've had.
Don't embarass myself at Gloucester blocks. Tick. Got a couple of benchmark times out of it too.
January-March goals
Stick to the training plan. This served a purpose, but I can't claim to have stuck to it!
Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter.
Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most of the 'Staffordshire nose'
At least 2 more E4 attempts.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 96/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
*Progression here is:
1) Get to the top, work out some moves
2) Work out all the moves in isolation, some sequences
3) Overlapping halves
4) Send
In reply to AJM:
Great tick with El latido Andy - lots more to come i think?
I geeked out and counted up my 8a.nu ticks - the newbie i did on Saturday was my 500th logged climb of >f7a!
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter
- Still a “fat b*stard” – pulled a bunch of holds off at Dinbren on Saturday - 75.8kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Resolve hip/groin & shoulder issues.
- Get more pumped!
- Start tapering
The week just gone:
M - Rest – sore shoulder
T - AWS – Aero-Power - ~50move/3.5min circuit on 45 degree board. Same as last week, but fell off a couple of moves higher into final V5 section. Aero-cap warm-down on auto-belay/traversing.
W - Hotel gym. 350kcal on x-trainer, random selection of weights & 200kcal on bike. Buffet dinner.
T - Hotel gym. 500kcal on x-trainer, random selection of weights & 250kcal on bike. Buffet dinner and a few beers.
F - Rest
S - Dinbren – 6c warm-ups, then back on FA project. Pulled off two sets of good sidepulls and made getting the kneebar in much harder. 4th tie-in somehow pulled it out the bag – “No kneed” is a cracking route for the lanky climber with a penchant for knee barring! 8a+?
S - Bit knackered – needed a trip to Costa before climbing – 6 routes on Pen Trwyn upto 7a+ with Luke.
> I was just counting that actually - 119 fr7s and 1 fr8 now, of which something like 39 of the fr7s have been since January.
Great tick with El latido Andy - lots more to come i think?
I geeked out and counted up my 8a.nu ticks - the newbie i did on Saturday was my 500th logged climb of >f7a!
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter
- Still a “fat b*stard” – pulled a bunch of holds off at Dinbren on Saturday - 75.8kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Resolve hip/groin & shoulder issues.
- Get more pumped!
- Start tapering
The week just gone:
M - Rest – sore shoulder
T - AWS – Aero-Power - ~50move/3.5min circuit on 45 degree board. Same as last week, but fell off a couple of moves higher into final V5 section. Aero-cap warm-down on auto-belay/traversing.
W - Hotel gym. 350kcal on x-trainer, random selection of weights & 200kcal on bike. Buffet dinner.
T - Hotel gym. 500kcal on x-trainer, random selection of weights & 250kcal on bike. Buffet dinner and a few beers.
F - Rest
S - Dinbren – 6c warm-ups, then back on FA project. Pulled off two sets of good sidepulls and made getting the kneebar in much harder. 4th tie-in somehow pulled it out the bag – “No kneed” is a cracking route for the lanky climber with a penchant for knee barring! 8a+?
S - Bit knackered – needed a trip to Costa before climbing – 6 routes on Pen Trwyn upto 7a+ with Luke.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Hi Nomics
Where / what is the 7a+ at Robin Proctor's? I'm pretty sure my guide show the hardest route there as 6c?
Hi Nomics
Where / what is the 7a+ at Robin Proctor's? I'm pretty sure my guide show the hardest route there as 6c?
In reply to Exile:
There's a 7a there too. The 7a+ is Forever Young, on the same sector as Marshall Plan, to its right, using the same belay. It's vertical, techy and a bit reachy:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=22853
There's a 7a there too. The 7a+ is Forever Young, on the same sector as Marshall Plan, to its right, using the same belay. It's vertical, techy and a bit reachy:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=22853
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks for doing fit club. Dropped some of the sessions this week as I was initially feeling tired on Monday, as a result I fel I've climbed a lot better. Time to do a bit less and concentrate on quality rather than quantity - no point turning up at routes I want to do already tired.
Anyway...
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done) probably next winter now
Next few weeks training: Endurance nailed for when i can get on some routes
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest - felt tired
T: pm: Endurance rep's at wall - can't remember how good or otherwise it was
W: Rest
T: pm: Hard endurance session at wall - climbed until my hands hurt too much to do any more. 6b+ - 7a+ ish.
F: pm: 1hr reps on fingury endurance 7a traverse. Started this tired from yesterday so a good work out
S: 1'5hr easy MTB with my youngest on blue at Whinlatter
S: pm: 1hr 50min: Another hard endurance session at wall, 6b+ - 7a+ ish.
Weight this morning (still still still!) 11st 9lb
Going to drop the weights this week and make sure the runs are reasonably gentle.
Thanks for doing fit club. Dropped some of the sessions this week as I was initially feeling tired on Monday, as a result I fel I've climbed a lot better. Time to do a bit less and concentrate on quality rather than quantity - no point turning up at routes I want to do already tired.
Anyway...
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done) probably next winter now
Next few weeks training: Endurance nailed for when i can get on some routes
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest - felt tired
T: pm: Endurance rep's at wall - can't remember how good or otherwise it was
W: Rest
T: pm: Hard endurance session at wall - climbed until my hands hurt too much to do any more. 6b+ - 7a+ ish.
F: pm: 1hr reps on fingury endurance 7a traverse. Started this tired from yesterday so a good work out
S: 1'5hr easy MTB with my youngest on blue at Whinlatter
S: pm: 1hr 50min: Another hard endurance session at wall, 6b+ - 7a+ ish.
Weight this morning (still still still!) 11st 9lb
Going to drop the weights this week and make sure the runs are reasonably gentle.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks very much for that. Is MArshall Plan, onsight / flashable, (I don't get too hung up about beta)? I did The Shield, (6c?) there second go a few years ago and always ment to get back to have a go at Marshall Plan, but haven't got around to it.
Thanks very much for that. Is MArshall Plan, onsight / flashable, (I don't get too hung up about beta)? I did The Shield, (6c?) there second go a few years ago and always ment to get back to have a go at Marshall Plan, but haven't got around to it.
In reply to Exile:
Definitely onsightable. It's low in the grade and you can work out the crux from a fairly comfortable position. I did it first go yesterday having been on it a couple of years ago so it all felt new. The 6b+ I did felt harder and I think the shield is meant to be harder too. If you do Marshall Plan you could take extra draws and put them in the 7a+ on the way down, have a go at that too.
Definitely onsightable. It's low in the grade and you can work out the crux from a fairly comfortable position. I did it first go yesterday having been on it a couple of years ago so it all felt new. The 6b+ I did felt harder and I think the shield is meant to be harder too. If you do Marshall Plan you could take extra draws and put them in the 7a+ on the way down, have a go at that too.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks for starting the thread and the stats, Mr. Nomics. What's your destination and aim in Turkey? Are you going down to Antalya?
This week wasn't great for me. Two sessions at Brookes, which were fairly underwhelming.
Anyway, as you say, it's a bit of a ebb season, and I feel the need to impose some realistic goals.
As such, I'd be grateful to be held accountable here. My aim for this week is to introduce at least two or three drills from 'Self Coached Climber', to give me some structure and focus. Am also aiming to introduce a trail run at the weekend for variety.
That's all - got to keep it real...
Thanks for starting the thread and the stats, Mr. Nomics. What's your destination and aim in Turkey? Are you going down to Antalya?
This week wasn't great for me. Two sessions at Brookes, which were fairly underwhelming.
Anyway, as you say, it's a bit of a ebb season, and I feel the need to impose some realistic goals.
As such, I'd be grateful to be held accountable here. My aim for this week is to introduce at least two or three drills from 'Self Coached Climber', to give me some structure and focus. Am also aiming to introduce a trail run at the weekend for variety.
That's all - got to keep it real...
In reply to mattrm:
Boiler Slab has some good routes on the left to warm up on. If you're feeling confident, there's some VSs over to the right to crack on with.
Boiler Slab has some good routes on the left to warm up on. If you're feeling confident, there's some VSs over to the right to crack on with.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks Nomics, and well done AJM!
I've had a bit of a nothing week this week, finger is still a bit sore, it improved for the first couple of days but now seems to have settled to a low level of pain if I try and use it, certainly not fixing itself quickly. I'm icing it, massaging it, buying it flowers, trying to be genreally nice to it but i'm starting to get a little worried that it will ruin my Font trip (2 weeks and counting)
M: Sports massage
T: Chest; Bench, Decline Press, Incline Flys, Dips, Tricep pull downs, stretches
W: Elbow Rehab and stretches
T: Sports massage; Climb, routes super easy, nothing over 5+, trying to give my finger some exercise without exerting it, felt good. Stretches
F: Elbow rehab and stretches
S: Elbow rehab and stretches
S:
Gym session Tuesday was good, benched 80kg for 3 reps which matches my current best so at least that side of things is still strong. I'm going to have to up the weight on my dips as I can rep out 4 sets of 8 pretty comfortably with 10kg added now. Seems like topping out of boulders in Font won't be my weak point at least!
Sports massages were good, lots of tightness found and removed around my neck and shoulders, also the elbow rehab and stretches are going well, i'm keeping reasonably to my schedule and the elbows do feel good, although with the dodgy finger i've not really had a chance to climb hard to really test them which is very frustrating.
While pootling about at the wall Thursday, I did manage a one-arm chin up on a campus rung, that made me pretty happy as I can remember not being able to one hand hang a campus rung and thats when i was ticking high 7's!
Current goal is fix the finger!
Thanks Nomics, and well done AJM!
I've had a bit of a nothing week this week, finger is still a bit sore, it improved for the first couple of days but now seems to have settled to a low level of pain if I try and use it, certainly not fixing itself quickly. I'm icing it, massaging it, buying it flowers, trying to be genreally nice to it but i'm starting to get a little worried that it will ruin my Font trip (2 weeks and counting)
M: Sports massage
T: Chest; Bench, Decline Press, Incline Flys, Dips, Tricep pull downs, stretches
W: Elbow Rehab and stretches
T: Sports massage; Climb, routes super easy, nothing over 5+, trying to give my finger some exercise without exerting it, felt good. Stretches
F: Elbow rehab and stretches
S: Elbow rehab and stretches
S:
Gym session Tuesday was good, benched 80kg for 3 reps which matches my current best so at least that side of things is still strong. I'm going to have to up the weight on my dips as I can rep out 4 sets of 8 pretty comfortably with 10kg added now. Seems like topping out of boulders in Font won't be my weak point at least!
Sports massages were good, lots of tightness found and removed around my neck and shoulders, also the elbow rehab and stretches are going well, i'm keeping reasonably to my schedule and the elbows do feel good, although with the dodgy finger i've not really had a chance to climb hard to really test them which is very frustrating.
While pootling about at the wall Thursday, I did manage a one-arm chin up on a campus rung, that made me pretty happy as I can remember not being able to one hand hang a campus rung and thats when i was ticking high 7's!
Current goal is fix the finger!
Post edited at 12:50
In reply to Nomics4sale:
cheers for doing FC nomics
last week:
sunday- cardio and weights, core in gym
monday- bike in gym, core budleirng- v5s, PE and enduro (about 1 hr and 20 mins so focussed and went quite well)
tuesday-bike in gym, core, bouldering - same as above but climbed better
wed- rest
thurs- a.m. MTB .. long climb, whizz round lee quarry.. home . pm bouldering.. similar to earlier in the week. weights and core i gym (sore hands)
friday- cardio and core in gym .. 40 mins bike, 40 mins cross trainer. and then core
saturday- hill run.. harrison pike via stickle ghyll. pm bouldering- enduro on steep section at lanc uni.
sunday- quick early morning cardio on stairclimber in gym.. then mothers day
plans for this week... 2-3 x bouldering. 1x malham (baboo baboo) quick falling practice session after bouldeirng if i can find someone to catch me.
usual cardio, MTbing locally and a hilly road ride in the yorkshire dales (amd weight training and core) LOTS OF SLEEP PLEASE
PPG.
cheers for doing FC nomics
last week:
sunday- cardio and weights, core in gym
monday- bike in gym, core budleirng- v5s, PE and enduro (about 1 hr and 20 mins so focussed and went quite well)
tuesday-bike in gym, core, bouldering - same as above but climbed better
wed- rest
thurs- a.m. MTB .. long climb, whizz round lee quarry.. home . pm bouldering.. similar to earlier in the week. weights and core i gym (sore hands)
friday- cardio and core in gym .. 40 mins bike, 40 mins cross trainer. and then core
saturday- hill run.. harrison pike via stickle ghyll. pm bouldering- enduro on steep section at lanc uni.
sunday- quick early morning cardio on stairclimber in gym.. then mothers day
plans for this week... 2-3 x bouldering. 1x malham (baboo baboo) quick falling practice session after bouldeirng if i can find someone to catch me.
usual cardio, MTbing locally and a hilly road ride in the yorkshire dales (amd weight training and core) LOTS OF SLEEP PLEASE
PPG.
In reply to Si Cox:
That was the crag I was thinking of. Not for me tho, for grubes as he likes slabs.
I've led or seconded most of the routes in my grade range there. I'd quite like to do the E1, Tokyo and the E2, Nuclear Arms there, also there's the girdle and Direct still to tick off.
> Boiler Slab has some good routes on the left to warm up on. If you're feeling confident, there's some VSs over to the right to crack on with.
That was the crag I was thinking of. Not for me tho, for grubes as he likes slabs.
I've led or seconded most of the routes in my grade range there. I'd quite like to do the E1, Tokyo and the E2, Nuclear Arms there, also there's the girdle and Direct still to tick off.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Cheers Nomics, I'm fighting fit again now thanks!
Good to be back on it, had a good start of season routes session on Sunday too, felt good!
Hoping to finish off Firestarter at the Gorge this week.
Monday: ill
Tuesday: ill
Wednesday: Had a quick session on the Orme on the way back from a Bangor Uni open day with my girlfriend. Got back on Where's My Hippo (7A) fell off trying to hold the one arm swing to match the finishing jug around 12 times...
Evening Abs Session:
3 x 1min Front Plank
3 x 1min Side Plank Left
3 x 1min Side Plank Right
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Wideshield Wipers
3 x 20 Leg Raises
Thursday: Work Gym Session:
3 x 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Dips
3 x 10 One-Arm Rows (17.5kg, both sides)
3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Arnie Press (12.5kg)
3 x 1 min Front Plank
Friday: Work Gym Session:
3 x 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Standing Dumbbell Upright Row (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 One-Arm Dumbbell Rows (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Shoulder Flys (15kg)
3 x 1 min Front Plank
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Orme with Ally Smith
Warmed up on some crap 6a called "Mumbo Jumbo", never again...
Did "The Bloods" (7a+) first go of the day putting the clips in. Felt good feeling pumped mid crux but still being able to keep pulling!
Did "Julio Juvenito" (7a) 2nd go.
Tried "Mayfair" (7a+) worked out the crux, and also had a redpoint. Fell on the crux, did the crux on lead. One to go back for!
Cheers Nomics, I'm fighting fit again now thanks!
Good to be back on it, had a good start of season routes session on Sunday too, felt good!
Hoping to finish off Firestarter at the Gorge this week.
Monday: ill
Tuesday: ill
Wednesday: Had a quick session on the Orme on the way back from a Bangor Uni open day with my girlfriend. Got back on Where's My Hippo (7A) fell off trying to hold the one arm swing to match the finishing jug around 12 times...
Evening Abs Session:
3 x 1min Front Plank
3 x 1min Side Plank Left
3 x 1min Side Plank Right
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Wideshield Wipers
3 x 20 Leg Raises
Thursday: Work Gym Session:
3 x 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Dips
3 x 10 One-Arm Rows (17.5kg, both sides)
3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Arnie Press (12.5kg)
3 x 1 min Front Plank
Friday: Work Gym Session:
3 x 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Standing Dumbbell Upright Row (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 One-Arm Dumbbell Rows (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Shoulder Flys (15kg)
3 x 1 min Front Plank
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: Orme with Ally Smith
Warmed up on some crap 6a called "Mumbo Jumbo", never again...
Did "The Bloods" (7a+) first go of the day putting the clips in. Felt good feeling pumped mid crux but still being able to keep pulling!
Did "Julio Juvenito" (7a) 2nd go.
Tried "Mayfair" (7a+) worked out the crux, and also had a redpoint. Fell on the crux, did the crux on lead. One to go back for!
In reply to AJM:
Well done on the 8a. I can't really appreciate how hard that is, but I bet it is really hard and I can see you have worked to get there.
What is 8a in terms of marathon times?
Sub 3:00? Bet its harder than that. Sub 2:30??
Well done on the 8a. I can't really appreciate how hard that is, but I bet it is really hard and I can see you have worked to get there.
What is 8a in terms of marathon times?
Sub 3:00? Bet its harder than that. Sub 2:30??
Post edited at 15:49
In reply to mbh:
Haha, you could start a whole thread about that! I bet responses would run into the 100s and the only conclusion you'd get is that three pebble slab should be E0 and student groups should be banned...
> What is 8a in terms of marathon times?
Haha, you could start a whole thread about that! I bet responses would run into the 100s and the only conclusion you'd get is that three pebble slab should be E0 and student groups should be banned...
In reply to Nick Russell:
Hahaha
So who's gonna start the thread? Having done 3PS last week, I can confirm the E0 grade but I'm not sure were I stand on banning student groups...
Hahaha
So who's gonna start the thread? Having done 3PS last week, I can confirm the E0 grade but I'm not sure were I stand on banning student groups...
In reply to mbh:
It's impossible to make a direct comparison. I suspect that it's around keen marathoner times, so about 3 hours or so. But really it's not an easy comparison to make. I think there was a thread about it on here the other day. Basically it's a reasonably high level that most keen climbers should be able to make if they put the effort in.
It's a real sod I find, as when I go 'I've just onsighted HVS' to people I get totally blank looks. But if I was a runner and went 'I've just run a 20 minute 5k' most people will have an idea about the difficulty involved.
> What is 8a in terms of marathon times?
It's impossible to make a direct comparison. I suspect that it's around keen marathoner times, so about 3 hours or so. But really it's not an easy comparison to make. I think there was a thread about it on here the other day. Basically it's a reasonably high level that most keen climbers should be able to make if they put the effort in.
It's a real sod I find, as when I go 'I've just onsighted HVS' to people I get totally blank looks. But if I was a runner and went 'I've just run a 20 minute 5k' most people will have an idea about the difficulty involved.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Ha! A time of 2:30 would place you in the top 0.4% of finishers of the last, sort of hard to get into Boston Marathon, and the top 0.1% of the last London Marathon for the masses.
So, if sport climbing is more Boston than London, AJM is officially one of the top 0.1%-ers, which is a cool badge to have.
Ha! A time of 2:30 would place you in the top 0.4% of finishers of the last, sort of hard to get into Boston Marathon, and the top 0.1% of the last London Marathon for the masses.
So, if sport climbing is more Boston than London, AJM is officially one of the top 0.1%-ers, which is a cool badge to have.
Post edited at 16:48
In reply to mattrm:
On the other hand, if you show a photo to any of the 'blank look' people, they're likely to be even more impressed!
> It's a real sod I find, as when I go 'I've just onsighted HVS' to people I get totally blank looks. But if I was a runner and went 'I've just run a 20 minute 5k' most people will have an idea about the difficulty involved.
On the other hand, if you show a photo to any of the 'blank look' people, they're likely to be even more impressed!
In reply to mattrm:
In fact, a 2:30 marathon is about 5:45 pace. I couldn't do that even for one mile. Is an 8a route the kind of thing on which most people can't even leave the ground?
A 3:00 marathon is just over 6:50 pace. That is well hard, but kind of imaginable, if you have done a bit of running, so in a sport route sense I get the feeling from reading your various reports that it is in the 7s, sport-route wise, whereas a 2:30 time is more like an an 8a, the kind of route on which a few people who have been trying seriously hard would be able to do the odd move or sequence, after lots of practice, but not he whole thing, while most would get nowhere near, no matter how hard they try, mostly because they don't try hard enough.
In fact, a 2:30 marathon is about 5:45 pace. I couldn't do that even for one mile. Is an 8a route the kind of thing on which most people can't even leave the ground?
A 3:00 marathon is just over 6:50 pace. That is well hard, but kind of imaginable, if you have done a bit of running, so in a sport route sense I get the feeling from reading your various reports that it is in the 7s, sport-route wise, whereas a 2:30 time is more like an an 8a, the kind of route on which a few people who have been trying seriously hard would be able to do the odd move or sequence, after lots of practice, but not he whole thing, while most would get nowhere near, no matter how hard they try, mostly because they don't try hard enough.
Post edited at 17:18
In reply to Nick Russell:
Hmm interesting difference! Running reps to time rather distance is a deliberate ploy I'm afraid. Obviously I could (and will) go to the track for measured intervals and I have measured kilometre and mile loops I can run if I want to know exact pace. However, its not good (in my opinion) to run to measured distance all the while as a lot of variables can make 5-10 sec difference on the day and you can beat yourself up if those mile reps this week were slower than two weeks ago etc etc. GPS watches are good but I still wouldn't trust them over a K or Mile rep to be accurate enough to avoid the above problem. Sure someone will come along and disagree though!
Hmm interesting difference! Running reps to time rather distance is a deliberate ploy I'm afraid. Obviously I could (and will) go to the track for measured intervals and I have measured kilometre and mile loops I can run if I want to know exact pace. However, its not good (in my opinion) to run to measured distance all the while as a lot of variables can make 5-10 sec difference on the day and you can beat yourself up if those mile reps this week were slower than two weeks ago etc etc. GPS watches are good but I still wouldn't trust them over a K or Mile rep to be accurate enough to avoid the above problem. Sure someone will come along and disagree though!
In reply to mbh:
Well if you go to the UK rankings for the marathon last year 67 people ran sub 2:30 and the 100th person ran 2:33:08. This list covers pretty much everyone who ran sub 2:30 I think, although there will probably be a couple of exceptions. Trying to work out the same for climbing is much more difficult ie how many people climbed 8a last year? and if you tried to rank people in some sort of order based upon route difficulty (impossible to separate those on the same grade but a different route) then where would the 100th "UK based" climber appear?
Nevermind the twin question of could everyone climb 8a or run a sub 3hr marathon if they trained hard enough
Well if you go to the UK rankings for the marathon last year 67 people ran sub 2:30 and the 100th person ran 2:33:08. This list covers pretty much everyone who ran sub 2:30 I think, although there will probably be a couple of exceptions. Trying to work out the same for climbing is much more difficult ie how many people climbed 8a last year? and if you tried to rank people in some sort of order based upon route difficulty (impossible to separate those on the same grade but a different route) then where would the 100th "UK based" climber appear?
Nevermind the twin question of could everyone climb 8a or run a sub 3hr marathon if they trained hard enough
In reply to Humperdink:
The 100th ranked uk climber probably climbs a lot harder than 8a I'd have though.
Therefore AJM needs to up his game instantly and start working towards 9a...
The 100th ranked uk climber probably climbs a lot harder than 8a I'd have though.
Therefore AJM needs to up his game instantly and start working towards 9a...
In reply to mrchewy:
Yep - I'd say the 100th ranked climber is getting up something harder than 8a as well (and at the top end a relatively few people will be responsible for a lot of 8a or harder ascents recorded). This probably means that the marathon time needs to be slower than 2:30 to be "equivalent" (even though its not really possible to compare the two!)....
Yep - I'd say the 100th ranked climber is getting up something harder than 8a as well (and at the top end a relatively few people will be responsible for a lot of 8a or harder ascents recorded). This probably means that the marathon time needs to be slower than 2:30 to be "equivalent" (even though its not really possible to compare the two!)....
In reply to Nomics4sale: Thanks Nomics! Yes that was my Dad, he did a lecture/masterclass on big wall climbing, in aid of CAC and the Christie. It was a good night, he raised about £500.
I haven't had a great week, hit with a terrible cold which still hasn't gone
Mon - rest
Tue - really good session at MCC. New boulder set, lots of good mileage flashing everything up to V5, as well as a few of the V6-8 circuit. Also flashed one of the V8+, which more than a bit soft. Finished off with a retro-burn on the 7c, which was good to get up after two hours of bouldering.
Wed - Sat think I'd had a cold brewing for a while and Tuesday pushed me over th edge! Felt horrible.
Sun - felt stupid not going outside but dad needed help setting up for his talk so we did a few routes. 6a, 6b+, 7a+, then two attempts on a 7c+. Got to the penultimate clip on the flash and I've worked out the move so should go next time.
So yeah, depressing stuff not to get out this weekend but ah well... psyche is a bit low at the moment but not in a bad way, I've just got a lot of work to do. We're going for a week in the south of France in two weeks but my plan is to keep it relaxed, enjoy the climbing and pastries, and just get lots of good climbing done.
Lastly a bit congratulations to Andy on achieving a big goal, very pleased for you, hopefully I'll be inspired to follow suit.
Cheers, Jake
I haven't had a great week, hit with a terrible cold which still hasn't gone
Mon - rest
Tue - really good session at MCC. New boulder set, lots of good mileage flashing everything up to V5, as well as a few of the V6-8 circuit. Also flashed one of the V8+, which more than a bit soft. Finished off with a retro-burn on the 7c, which was good to get up after two hours of bouldering.
Wed - Sat think I'd had a cold brewing for a while and Tuesday pushed me over th edge! Felt horrible.
Sun - felt stupid not going outside but dad needed help setting up for his talk so we did a few routes. 6a, 6b+, 7a+, then two attempts on a 7c+. Got to the penultimate clip on the flash and I've worked out the move so should go next time.
So yeah, depressing stuff not to get out this weekend but ah well... psyche is a bit low at the moment but not in a bad way, I've just got a lot of work to do. We're going for a week in the south of France in two weeks but my plan is to keep it relaxed, enjoy the climbing and pastries, and just get lots of good climbing done.
Lastly a bit congratulations to Andy on achieving a big goal, very pleased for you, hopefully I'll be inspired to follow suit.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick.
The only 7c+ I did around the Bristol area was Draggin Along (well, aside from Storm Warning), which was good. No super precise detail left in the mind but I could still pull out a bit of beta if required.
Wrist business is nails (Fb7B extended boulder essentially).
Appreciate its not the easiest to get to for you but I reckon Low Blow is Fr7c+, no partner issues required for most of the working of it, and really is a very very good piece of climbing....
In reply to Ally:
Yeah yeah look at you!
New one sounds good, nice job.
I had a proper dog and a short "knackered but I should at least try the crux again" go on Bon Viatge today, as well as 2 trips up Orient - gonna give BV a further go when I'm fresh to see if its likely in the remaining time here.
In reply to mbh and others:
Thanks!
In terms of how hard 8a is as a marathon - unanswerable! For me it's been about 2-3 years since I first really thought "I want to do 8a and am actually going to try and put the effort in to achieving it", at which point I'd climbed a 7b or two. The second part of the quote is far more crucial!
I think (this is all off the top of my head) I'd been climbing about 8 years or so then, and it's been a long slow grind - a few years to VS, another 1-2 to HVS plus some harder bold slabs, then did my first bits of sport climbing, doing 6b, 6c, going up a grade or so a year. I don't think I've demonstrated any massive natural talent for climbing, been very slow and steady, although I am a stubborn bastard and have a good memory for beta and sequences and I'd like to think I'm quite analytical about why I'm failing on stuff, where my body position is wrong and suchlike. I've never been monstrously overstrong (I've done a V7 power endurance problem (and a longer stamina linkup, but that's a route not a problem) after many goes, a V6 or maybe two on the cruxes of routes and a few V5s). You can be weaker than many people imagine if you put the time into getting fit and are stubborn and persistent.
Cheers Nick.
The only 7c+ I did around the Bristol area was Draggin Along (well, aside from Storm Warning), which was good. No super precise detail left in the mind but I could still pull out a bit of beta if required.
Wrist business is nails (Fb7B extended boulder essentially).
Appreciate its not the easiest to get to for you but I reckon Low Blow is Fr7c+, no partner issues required for most of the working of it, and really is a very very good piece of climbing....
In reply to Ally:
Yeah yeah look at you!
New one sounds good, nice job.
I had a proper dog and a short "knackered but I should at least try the crux again" go on Bon Viatge today, as well as 2 trips up Orient - gonna give BV a further go when I'm fresh to see if its likely in the remaining time here.
In reply to mbh and others:
Thanks!
In terms of how hard 8a is as a marathon - unanswerable! For me it's been about 2-3 years since I first really thought "I want to do 8a and am actually going to try and put the effort in to achieving it", at which point I'd climbed a 7b or two. The second part of the quote is far more crucial!
I think (this is all off the top of my head) I'd been climbing about 8 years or so then, and it's been a long slow grind - a few years to VS, another 1-2 to HVS plus some harder bold slabs, then did my first bits of sport climbing, doing 6b, 6c, going up a grade or so a year. I don't think I've demonstrated any massive natural talent for climbing, been very slow and steady, although I am a stubborn bastard and have a good memory for beta and sequences and I'd like to think I'm quite analytical about why I'm failing on stuff, where my body position is wrong and suchlike. I've never been monstrously overstrong (I've done a V7 power endurance problem (and a longer stamina linkup, but that's a route not a problem) after many goes, a V6 or maybe two on the cruxes of routes and a few V5s). You can be weaker than many people imagine if you put the time into getting fit and are stubborn and persistent.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Thanks, she's a decent little runner, but med school is the priority for now for her so I can retire.. but we run together a few days a week, low 20's for 5k and wins the odd race. But still a youngster.
Thanks, she's a decent little runner, but med school is the priority for now for her so I can retire.. but we run together a few days a week, low 20's for 5k and wins the odd race. But still a youngster.
In reply to AJM:
The grade does seem generally under-represented round here (compared with 7c anyway there seems to be much less choice). Though maybe it's just getting sufficiently high that they're a bit more sparse everywhere. I was going to have a look at that one, will pick your brain for any beta when I get round to it. Why are you not counting Storm Warning?
It sounds good, and not too hard to get to. I know you had seepage problems in autumn... What's it like for sun/shade in the summer?
> The only 7c+ I did around the Bristol area was Draggin Along (well, aside from Storm Warning), which was good. No super precise detail left in the mind but I could still pull out a bit of beta if required.
The grade does seem generally under-represented round here (compared with 7c anyway there seems to be much less choice). Though maybe it's just getting sufficiently high that they're a bit more sparse everywhere. I was going to have a look at that one, will pick your brain for any beta when I get round to it. Why are you not counting Storm Warning?
> Appreciate its not the easiest to get to for you but I reckon Low Blow is Fr7c+, no partner issues required for most of the working of it, and really is a very very good piece of climbing....
It sounds good, and not too hard to get to. I know you had seepage problems in autumn... What's it like for sun/shade in the summer?
In reply to Nick Russell:
'cos it's 7c? You get the + for doing the variation.
> Why are you not counting Storm Warning?
'cos it's 7c? You get the + for doing the variation.
In reply to AJM:
Hear hear! Being weak but fit is the way to go. I'm hoping that being so weak I can't hang a campus rung one handed won't stop me from getting up a staminay route in Oliana
> You can be weaker than many people imagine if you put the time into getting fit and are stubborn and persistent.
Hear hear! Being weak but fit is the way to go. I'm hoping that being so weak I can't hang a campus rung one handed won't stop me from getting up a staminay route in Oliana
In reply to Ally Smith:
That would explain it.
> 'cos it's 7c? You get the + for doing the variation.
That would explain it.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Not sure if anyone has noticed, but shouldn't this have been UKC Fit Club week 367, not 337?
Not sure if anyone has noticed, but shouldn't this have been UKC Fit Club week 367, not 337?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Good point. I was just thinking that we should have put a 1 in front of it.
I'll be taking over the stats from next week onwards btw.
Good point. I was just thinking that we should have put a 1 in front of it.
I'll be taking over the stats from next week onwards btw.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Well, firstly looking at your timescales Storm Warning isn't an obvious summer project, and secondly I've got doubts over the grading of a lot of Brean so personally I wouldn't want to engage in a lot of things there as a first of the grade (when you've done 20, you can just enjoy it for the route, but first of the grade you always invest a bit in it being a breakthrough grade too) so I wouldn't recommend it to others either without making that clear, if that makes sense. I guess I just assumed in the previous post that I'd mentioned that I thought it was 7c, sorry for being unclear.
Your call, obviously, and both Storm Warning and the variation are very good routes that I would recommend doing at some point, especially the latter, but both have always been considered soft and so to me they are 7c and 7c+ respectively and I'd have felt like I was jumping on the "soft tick pushing the grade at Brean" bandwagon if I'd taken the latter as a first 8a had I finished it before leaving.
Yes 7c+ is a bit underrepresented. Secret Cabernet I couldn't get off the ground, if there's anything on sunset then its probably a pain to get to and has only had 5 ascents so you won't be entirely sure what grade it is anyway, Brean there's the variation when winter comes, and maybe Black Snake Moan if its not seeping, or you could do the finish up the arête after doing circus circus, that's been claimed at 7c+. There's a traversing line on Spacehunter too isn't there but I bet that's a faff to work. Some short bouldery nasties up at swine cliff too. No obvious standout classic.
I rarely ever got on low blow in the sun. The hillside in general is the outside of a north facing horseshoe, so some of the boulders get lovely afternoon and evening sun, but the sliced slug faces in the other direction, I'm not sure on the exactities but somewhere between north and east. I think I arrived about 11 once and the sun was on it but soon departing. I went up with Helen one sweltering humid day in July and the slug was in good conditions whilst the whole of the rest of the boulder field was an absolute sauna. There's about 3-4 moves in the middle of Ames Low where it will get seepage after wet weather in autumn, although by the onset of winter the whole thing can obviously get totally screwed as you might expect. Beta on request again.
Garrouli who lurks here sometimes might be interested in trying it with you? And Helen has all sorts of unfinished business there too
Well, firstly looking at your timescales Storm Warning isn't an obvious summer project, and secondly I've got doubts over the grading of a lot of Brean so personally I wouldn't want to engage in a lot of things there as a first of the grade (when you've done 20, you can just enjoy it for the route, but first of the grade you always invest a bit in it being a breakthrough grade too) so I wouldn't recommend it to others either without making that clear, if that makes sense. I guess I just assumed in the previous post that I'd mentioned that I thought it was 7c, sorry for being unclear.
Your call, obviously, and both Storm Warning and the variation are very good routes that I would recommend doing at some point, especially the latter, but both have always been considered soft and so to me they are 7c and 7c+ respectively and I'd have felt like I was jumping on the "soft tick pushing the grade at Brean" bandwagon if I'd taken the latter as a first 8a had I finished it before leaving.
Yes 7c+ is a bit underrepresented. Secret Cabernet I couldn't get off the ground, if there's anything on sunset then its probably a pain to get to and has only had 5 ascents so you won't be entirely sure what grade it is anyway, Brean there's the variation when winter comes, and maybe Black Snake Moan if its not seeping, or you could do the finish up the arête after doing circus circus, that's been claimed at 7c+. There's a traversing line on Spacehunter too isn't there but I bet that's a faff to work. Some short bouldery nasties up at swine cliff too. No obvious standout classic.
I rarely ever got on low blow in the sun. The hillside in general is the outside of a north facing horseshoe, so some of the boulders get lovely afternoon and evening sun, but the sliced slug faces in the other direction, I'm not sure on the exactities but somewhere between north and east. I think I arrived about 11 once and the sun was on it but soon departing. I went up with Helen one sweltering humid day in July and the slug was in good conditions whilst the whole of the rest of the boulder field was an absolute sauna. There's about 3-4 moves in the middle of Ames Low where it will get seepage after wet weather in autumn, although by the onset of winter the whole thing can obviously get totally screwed as you might expect. Beta on request again.
Garrouli who lurks here sometimes might be interested in trying it with you? And Helen has all sorts of unfinished business there too
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yeah, sorry about that. I did make the point at the end of the stats but I guess no one's read it.
Yeah, sorry about that. I did make the point at the end of the stats but I guess no one's read it.
In reply to AJM:
Ha! I just had a quick look in and noticed this.....
Nick, if you want to try it, let me know and I can give you all of my lanky, wack beta! I was up there the other week actually - got through Ames Low four times and fell off the last move up to the jug on Golden Bicep. Only a matter of time hopefully. I was thinking of heading there this Friday afternoon if your interested?
Regards good routes in the 7c+ category, my favorite is Avenged down at Ansteys Cove. Amazing moves and I think it is accepted to be 7c+. There is also Threadbare at Torbryan which is on my hitlist. I have done the top part on the 7b+ variant, just need to do the 7c+ start. Stitch That at Ban-y-gor is good too, though pretty soft for 7c+. Only one I have done in Cheddar is Mettle Detector though i think this is classed as soft, though can give you some beta if needed.
Oh, congratulations on the 8a Andy! Good work!
Ha! I just had a quick look in and noticed this.....
Nick, if you want to try it, let me know and I can give you all of my lanky, wack beta! I was up there the other week actually - got through Ames Low four times and fell off the last move up to the jug on Golden Bicep. Only a matter of time hopefully. I was thinking of heading there this Friday afternoon if your interested?
Regards good routes in the 7c+ category, my favorite is Avenged down at Ansteys Cove. Amazing moves and I think it is accepted to be 7c+. There is also Threadbare at Torbryan which is on my hitlist. I have done the top part on the 7b+ variant, just need to do the 7c+ start. Stitch That at Ban-y-gor is good too, though pretty soft for 7c+. Only one I have done in Cheddar is Mettle Detector though i think this is classed as soft, though can give you some beta if needed.
Oh, congratulations on the 8a Andy! Good work!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Hi all been wanting to get involved for a while so here we go.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder 7a inside
Consolidate 6C outside
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6C
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder 7a in font and 7b by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder 7c
This week:
M- work on assignment
T- boulder at Indy
W assignment
T- fingerboard session
F- nothing
S- Indy competition great day
S- nothing.
Fairly busy week in all!!
Hi all been wanting to get involved for a while so here we go.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder 7a inside
Consolidate 6C outside
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6C
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder 7a in font and 7b by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder 7c
This week:
M- work on assignment
T- boulder at Indy
W assignment
T- fingerboard session
F- nothing
S- Indy competition great day
S- nothing.
Fairly busy week in all!!
In reply to Tubb93:
Welcome Tubb!
Very minor tip to help other people avoid confusion when reading your updates: the capital letter after the number is usually used for bouldering grades, and small letter for routes. (e.g 7C for bouldering and 7c for sport).
Welcome again and best of luck!
Welcome Tubb!
Very minor tip to help other people avoid confusion when reading your updates: the capital letter after the number is usually used for bouldering grades, and small letter for routes. (e.g 7C for bouldering and 7c for sport).
Welcome again and best of luck!
In reply to Alun:
Yeh I realised that after I posted it!! Will probably just change to V grades next week
Yeh I realised that after I posted it!! Will probably just change to V grades next week
In reply to AJM:
If anyone has nothing better to do and fancies some self absorbed warbling by the way, then I've been blogging:
http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com.es/2014/04/my-big-hairy-audacious-...
If anyone has nothing better to do and fancies some self absorbed warbling by the way, then I've been blogging:
http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com.es/2014/04/my-big-hairy-audacious-...
In reply to AJM:
She does indeed. I need to retry umpteen 6b+ problems that my static style did me no favours on. But I'd also really like to sling a TR down some of the routes & play on them. Got an E5 by the skin of my teeth on TR but any lead would need a lot of further marking up, sussing of placements and also brushing the rock as all the little pockets get sandy. I'd defo be up for a trip there.
Can second AJMs sauna comment - that day most of the area was a sweat-box, with both of my kids flat out in little unhappy soggy heaps.
She does indeed. I need to retry umpteen 6b+ problems that my static style did me no favours on. But I'd also really like to sling a TR down some of the routes & play on them. Got an E5 by the skin of my teeth on TR but any lead would need a lot of further marking up, sussing of placements and also brushing the rock as all the little pockets get sandy. I'd defo be up for a trip there.
Can second AJMs sauna comment - that day most of the area was a sweat-box, with both of my kids flat out in little unhappy soggy heaps.
In reply to Garrouli:
Hello Garry? I've only just twigged it was you. In a couple of weeks when I'm back from losing skin in Derbyshire I'm definitely up for local climbing if you're interested. Can manage mid-week with a bit of luck/notice. I'm keen to get on 7b / 7b+ but am not a huge Cheddar fan I must admit.
Hello Garry? I've only just twigged it was you. In a couple of weeks when I'm back from losing skin in Derbyshire I'm definitely up for local climbing if you're interested. Can manage mid-week with a bit of luck/notice. I'm keen to get on 7b / 7b+ but am not a huge Cheddar fan I must admit.
In reply to Garrouli:
Thanks for the reply, I can't get Friday afternoon off but will let you know when I'm around. It's good to see we've got a few Bristol area people on here again!
Thanks for the reply, I can't get Friday afternoon off but will let you know when I'm around. It's good to see we've got a few Bristol area people on here again!
In reply to AJM:
Nice blog, it's very easy to read and nicely structured, but I was hoping for more info on the 8a send! I read a couple of the previous posts, and I had the exact same experience as you on that 7b at El Falco! My friend said 'do this 7b, it's really good' and I somehow interpreted this as 'good means easy, you are bound to onsight it'. It turned out good really did mean good but had absolutely no bearing on the difficulty of the route, that is one hard 7b!
Nice blog, it's very easy to read and nicely structured, but I was hoping for more info on the 8a send! I read a couple of the previous posts, and I had the exact same experience as you on that 7b at El Falco! My friend said 'do this 7b, it's really good' and I somehow interpreted this as 'good means easy, you are bound to onsight it'. It turned out good really did mean good but had absolutely no bearing on the difficulty of the route, that is one hard 7b!
In reply to Dandan:
Yes, I've got to start a blog this afternoon more about the actual route and the experience and the crag and stuff, this one was intended to be a bit more about vague goal setting and that sort of thing. Something for everyone (where everyone means "those who aren't keen sport climbers" .
Yes, I've got to start a blog this afternoon more about the actual route and the experience and the crag and stuff, this one was intended to be a bit more about vague goal setting and that sort of thing. Something for everyone (where everyone means "those who aren't keen sport climbers" .
In reply to Nick Russell:
Wonder if we could set up an email list, so if anyone is hoping to go out esp mid week then an email can let us all know / check availability. I'd find something like that incredibly useful as I feel much happier climbing with people I know & trust - have never felt very secure just putting up or answering random partner requests on the message board. Although it was by answering one that I met AJM, come to think of it....!
Wonder if we could set up an email list, so if anyone is hoping to go out esp mid week then an email can let us all know / check availability. I'd find something like that incredibly useful as I feel much happier climbing with people I know & trust - have never felt very secure just putting up or answering random partner requests on the message board. Although it was by answering one that I met AJM, come to think of it....!
In reply to hms:
Hi Helen, yes it's me! Should have said something when i saw you on Sunday but it slipped my mind.
Yes, we should arrange to get out. I'm off to Greece at the end of April, but I am up for getting out any time after that. I used to share your sentiments regarding Cheddar, but if your selective, there are some really good routes in the 7b/7b+ range. I can give you, what in my opinion, are the best routes at this grade and all the beta my mangled brain has managed to retain! I am also keen to get up to the Spacehunter wall for Gunfighter, Spangled Banner and Fornicator Stimulator. South Wales is local and has better routes anyway! And then there's Anstey's Cove if you class a 2hr drive as local?
Hi Helen, yes it's me! Should have said something when i saw you on Sunday but it slipped my mind.
Yes, we should arrange to get out. I'm off to Greece at the end of April, but I am up for getting out any time after that. I used to share your sentiments regarding Cheddar, but if your selective, there are some really good routes in the 7b/7b+ range. I can give you, what in my opinion, are the best routes at this grade and all the beta my mangled brain has managed to retain! I am also keen to get up to the Spacehunter wall for Gunfighter, Spangled Banner and Fornicator Stimulator. South Wales is local and has better routes anyway! And then there's Anstey's Cove if you class a 2hr drive as local?
In reply to Nick Russell:
No problems Nick. Let me know when you fancy getting out - Huntsham, Cheddar, etc. In the week, Wednesdays and Fridays are usually best for me.
No problems Nick. Let me know when you fancy getting out - Huntsham, Cheddar, etc. In the week, Wednesdays and Fridays are usually best for me.
In reply to Dandan:
Just for you:
http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com.es/2014/04/el-latido-del-miedo.htm...
It all got too long, so I'm going to have to do the rest of the Terradets writing I want to do in a separate post.....
Just for you:
http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com.es/2014/04/el-latido-del-miedo.htm...
It all got too long, so I'm going to have to do the rest of the Terradets writing I want to do in a separate post.....
In reply to hms:
From your perspective, surely avoiding a recurrence of that is one of the most compelling reasons for an email list going?
> have never felt very secure just putting up or answering random partner requests on the message board. Although it was by answering one that I met AJM, come to think of it....!
From your perspective, surely avoiding a recurrence of that is one of the most compelling reasons for an email list going?
In reply to AJM:
Good post. I've enjoyed reading your blog so far, keep it up! (The blogging and the sending, that is.)
> Just for you:
Good post. I've enjoyed reading your blog so far, keep it up! (The blogging and the sending, that is.)
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Sorry I've been missing for a few weeks - been so busy I just haven't had time to update. Think I've got about three weeks to update but can't remember much about the first of those!
Week 336
M - nothing
T - run
W - bouldering
T - nothing
F - Portland - warmed up on some easier routes then put clips up Hall of Mirrors. Been ages since I'd been on it and didn't know if I'd be able to make the moves so had a top rope go. Managed to pull the crux moves (just) then rolled around in agony for a bit - turns out your core is also a muscle you should warm up! :-S Managed to remember all the moves and made a few links so felt positive.
S - Portland - warmed up then back on Hall of Mirrors. Bolt to bolted/led every bit except the crux clip - I was really worried about the clip above that as it's run out, but glad that I made myself do it. Had a redpoint go but bit pathetic - didn't really commit to the crux. But did make myself do the crux clip - it's a diagonal high left clip off a low left sloper and right heel. Just about made it ok in isolation... Second go got up to the rest and managed to recover. Pulled through crux and went for crux clip - twice I tried to get the rope through the quickdraw but couldn't quite get it (very awkward!). Ended up grabbing the quickdraw to clip as wasn't sure I could hold position any longer. Made it from there to the top, so on lead in two - very pleased, but slightly annoyed about clip!
S - Hall of Mirrors again - feeling tired so no progress on day before - struggled to do the crux move and the clip.
So I guess I can *theoretically* do it! But not sure when I'm going to get down there again - all about everything coming together at the right time.
Week 337
M - nothing
T - Ran to work - felt tired
W - Biscuit Factory - ok session
T - nothing
F - Mountain biking in Dalby Forest - fun
S - Tried to go for a long run - felt drained from the start, went for 1 hr 20 but not very far and had to walk up some of the hills (there were a few!)
S - nothing - travelling home from Yorkshire
Been feeling really drained of energy recently - every time I run or climb its felt like I'm running through mud. Hoping its just that I haven't had enough sleep and can catch up this weekend
Looks like everyone's trying and sending well at the moment - keep it up!
Sorry I've been missing for a few weeks - been so busy I just haven't had time to update. Think I've got about three weeks to update but can't remember much about the first of those!
Week 336
M - nothing
T - run
W - bouldering
T - nothing
F - Portland - warmed up on some easier routes then put clips up Hall of Mirrors. Been ages since I'd been on it and didn't know if I'd be able to make the moves so had a top rope go. Managed to pull the crux moves (just) then rolled around in agony for a bit - turns out your core is also a muscle you should warm up! :-S Managed to remember all the moves and made a few links so felt positive.
S - Portland - warmed up then back on Hall of Mirrors. Bolt to bolted/led every bit except the crux clip - I was really worried about the clip above that as it's run out, but glad that I made myself do it. Had a redpoint go but bit pathetic - didn't really commit to the crux. But did make myself do the crux clip - it's a diagonal high left clip off a low left sloper and right heel. Just about made it ok in isolation... Second go got up to the rest and managed to recover. Pulled through crux and went for crux clip - twice I tried to get the rope through the quickdraw but couldn't quite get it (very awkward!). Ended up grabbing the quickdraw to clip as wasn't sure I could hold position any longer. Made it from there to the top, so on lead in two - very pleased, but slightly annoyed about clip!
S - Hall of Mirrors again - feeling tired so no progress on day before - struggled to do the crux move and the clip.
So I guess I can *theoretically* do it! But not sure when I'm going to get down there again - all about everything coming together at the right time.
Week 337
M - nothing
T - Ran to work - felt tired
W - Biscuit Factory - ok session
T - nothing
F - Mountain biking in Dalby Forest - fun
S - Tried to go for a long run - felt drained from the start, went for 1 hr 20 but not very far and had to walk up some of the hills (there were a few!)
S - nothing - travelling home from Yorkshire
Been feeling really drained of energy recently - every time I run or climb its felt like I'm running through mud. Hoping its just that I haven't had enough sleep and can catch up this weekend
Looks like everyone's trying and sending well at the moment - keep it up!
In reply to Garrouli:
After Easter i'll be keen for a SW trip.
- Got things to finish off on Spacehunter wall
- Want to do Cider Soak down at Anstey's
- Got unfinished business at Brean too - Milky Bar Kid in particular
- Want to revisit Portland - would like to investigate Fighting Torque
> I am also keen to get up to the Spacehunter wall for Gunfighter, Spangled Banner and Fornicator Stimulator. South Wales is local and has better routes anyway! And then there's Anstey's Cove if you class a 2hr drive as local?
After Easter i'll be keen for a SW trip.
- Got things to finish off on Spacehunter wall
- Want to do Cider Soak down at Anstey's
- Got unfinished business at Brean too - Milky Bar Kid in particular
- Want to revisit Portland - would like to investigate Fighting Torque
Post edited at 10:38
In reply to Ali:
As above - keen to revisit Portland - can probably wrangle free accommodation in Lyme Regis for a weekend
As above - keen to revisit Portland - can probably wrangle free accommodation in Lyme Regis for a weekend
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'd happily partner you for a day at Brean. Can be available mid-week with a little notice.
I'd happily partner you for a day at Brean. Can be available mid-week with a little notice.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hi Ally,
I would definitely be up for some/all of these. Cider soak and Fighting Torque are on my list of routes to do. I can wangle time off in the week too depending on what experiments I have running that week.
Hi Ally,
I would definitely be up for some/all of these. Cider soak and Fighting Torque are on my list of routes to do. I can wangle time off in the week too depending on what experiments I have running that week.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Give us a shout if you get down Portland way, it'd be good to catch up
AJM - huge congratulations, good job! Very relieved you're in one piece though and I hope A's finger is improving.
Ali - you can totally do it, that second RP was painfully close...
Sorry for being awol and then posting so late, figured if I left it any longer I'd probably drop out completely.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Tried to boulder but wall INSANELY busy Short campus then gave up.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Cuttings. On project but very cold and tired so only had one real go then got my clips down
Sat - Cuttings. Had a go at Bend Sinister (7a+). Wow, it's hard and weird! But surprisingly good. Did all the moves, unable to link it.
Sun - Cuttings. Fighting Torque again. Coming together but too slowly, I need a break from it.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder. Ticked a soft V5. Good campus.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Short boulder then a good session on toprope, 15 pitches mostly 6b-6c back to back, short rest then 8x 4+-5+ to warm down. Pressups.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. More consistent on Bend Sinister but still finding it desperate.
Sun - Cuttings. Fun day taking it easy trying whatever I felt like, ended up doing quite a lot of climbing.
Give us a shout if you get down Portland way, it'd be good to catch up
AJM - huge congratulations, good job! Very relieved you're in one piece though and I hope A's finger is improving.
Ali - you can totally do it, that second RP was painfully close...
Sorry for being awol and then posting so late, figured if I left it any longer I'd probably drop out completely.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Tried to boulder but wall INSANELY busy Short campus then gave up.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Cuttings. On project but very cold and tired so only had one real go then got my clips down
Sat - Cuttings. Had a go at Bend Sinister (7a+). Wow, it's hard and weird! But surprisingly good. Did all the moves, unable to link it.
Sun - Cuttings. Fighting Torque again. Coming together but too slowly, I need a break from it.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder. Ticked a soft V5. Good campus.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Short boulder then a good session on toprope, 15 pitches mostly 6b-6c back to back, short rest then 8x 4+-5+ to warm down. Pressups.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. More consistent on Bend Sinister but still finding it desperate.
Sun - Cuttings. Fun day taking it easy trying whatever I felt like, ended up doing quite a lot of climbing.
In reply to shark:
Cheers Simon!
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Thanks! Yes I'm pretty glad too
I remember Nick saying Bend Sinister was good and underrated, sounds like you're having fun with it. Totally get the needing a break - one of the reasons for moving from Terradets, apart from the temperatures, has been my body telling me quite firmly that it needs a break from hard redpointing.
Alis finger has been getting better - sitting siesta-ing in the van atm after she did a few routes on a sunny sector at Tres Ponts this morning. We bailed because it got soooo hot in the sun. Main sector this afternoon, psyched!
In reply to Ali:
Sounds like its coming together for you - hope it goes soon...
Cheers Simon!
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Thanks! Yes I'm pretty glad too
I remember Nick saying Bend Sinister was good and underrated, sounds like you're having fun with it. Totally get the needing a break - one of the reasons for moving from Terradets, apart from the temperatures, has been my body telling me quite firmly that it needs a break from hard redpointing.
Alis finger has been getting better - sitting siesta-ing in the van atm after she did a few routes on a sunny sector at Tres Ponts this morning. We bailed because it got soooo hot in the sun. Main sector this afternoon, psyched!
In reply to Ali:
Sounds like its coming together for you - hope it goes soon...
In reply to Ally Smith:
If you lot do get down to Portland on a weekend please let me know, would be great to meet some of you fitclubbers.
I can offer some beta on fighting torque too, I need to get on that this year again, it's prime contender for my first 8a at the moment (it's a bit soft)
I can also give beta for under duress which is a better route in my opinion and apparently just as hard.
If you lot do get down to Portland on a weekend please let me know, would be great to meet some of you fitclubbers.
I can offer some beta on fighting torque too, I need to get on that this year again, it's prime contender for my first 8a at the moment (it's a bit soft)
I can also give beta for under duress which is a better route in my opinion and apparently just as hard.
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