UKC

Hello training gurus,

What is the perceived wisdom in doing two training sessions in one day? Particularly if they are focused on power-endurance.

I have always had very bad "day endurance" - by that, I mean that I get tired after just a couple of hours at the crag. I'm aware that the best way to train for this is to "go climbing" but the pressures of fatherhood and general life mean that my climbing is currently restricted to 2-3 hour chunks. On the rare occasions when I do get a full day's climbing, I don't want to be burned out by lunchtime!

I have a nice 30 degree wall in my garage which is underused. Yesterday it was raining so I did a couple of power-endurance sessions, one in the morning, one in the afternoon. I was less strong in the afternoon but stil managed to have a couple of good burns on my current circuit.

To me this makes sense, but I'm no expert. Is it a good idea? Or am I better off training only when I feel fully fresh?

In reply to Alun:

I think it's fine to do this, just ere on the side of stopping the first session a bit too early if feeling drained. Power in the morning (1hr 30 max really) and pe in eve works well too

In reply to Alun:

Double sessions are good.

For "day endurance" I would have one of the sessions as AeroCap. The best way I have found to train this are 20/10's.

-Sort out a 20 move circuit on your board just below onsight limit with all moves about the same difficulty. Do the circuit of 20 moves and then 20 seconds rest followed by 10 moves back of the circuit then 10 secs rest (30 moves). Do this four times back to back (120 moves)getting on back on the board each time at the point you left off so you end up doing the circuit in different ways (which an be confusing when you get tired !)
-Take 10 min rests between sets and aim for 3/4 sets in a session.

In reply to shark:

Thanks to both for the advice.

I like the 20/10 suggestion, seems logical and family responsibilities will help enforcing the 10 min rest

In reply to Alun:
I tried the 20/10s, they are a real work out and pack a massive punch compared to other workouts I have tried in my garage. It's too early to see if they are working, but I'm optomistic. The other one I tried was a Steve Mclure app which has you doing foot on ladders on campus rungs . It's a killer too. Good luck in. Finding the right combo. I'm in the same situation with young kids. I managed to keep strong ish but never really improved. I've found getting to the walls is the only way I can really push it.