UKC

Orpierre advice please....

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Graeme G 31 Mar 2014
Thinking of climbing here. Guides say 70m rope, why? I've never been to a bolted crag so assume it's something to do with abseiling...

Also what's the best way to get there? I'm thinking of driving but for me that would be a 2500 mile round trip.

Thanks anyone who can help.
 Lukeva 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

If a single pitch route is over 30m, a 60m rope would be problematic
 BGG 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

Loads of the pitches are 35m - therefore unclimbable on a 60m.

Flew to Marseille and hired a car when I went.
 jon 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

It's to lower off long single pitch routes. In fact there are quite a few that are even longer and require an 80m but a 70m will certainly allow you to do the majority of routes - I wouldn't go any shorter though. For the multipitch routes I'd prefer climbing on 2x50m and then you KNOW you have no worries abseiling. That's just me though.
Graeme G 31 Mar 2014
In reply to jon:

Aaaaah...so i would be ok with my existing ropes, that's £150 i can spend on the trip. Ta.


 GrahamD 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

I don't know what grade you are climbing but we had a whole week of climbing up to 6a+ quite happily on a 60m rope. There was one abseil where a two ropes would have been handy but we never found anything we felt a 70m or 80m would have helped us.
 climber34neil 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

Avoid the dodgy red wine as well, I remember an awful dream of being sick in the tent then finding out that it wasnt a dream after all!!!
Graeme G 31 Mar 2014
In reply to GrahamD:

Thanks. 6a+ would bemy limit so that's good to know.

Graeme G 31 Mar 2014
In reply to climber34neil:

Def noted.
 JamButty 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

Its a hell of a drive for just a crag, albeit a bloody excellent one. Either link in with some time in the Alps or find a stop off climbing area en route (Font..., Saussois)

Or fly....

Sorry can't remember rope lengths
 jon 31 Mar 2014
In reply to JamButty:

> Its a hell of a drive for just a crag, albeit a bloody excellent one. Either link in with some time in the Alps or find a stop off climbing area en route (Font..., Saussois)

What a strange thing to say. If he gets bored with Orpierre there are dozens of other crags nearby.

To Father Noel, there are lots more routes and sectors of Orpierre itself that aren't in the Rockfax - generally all the rock up and right of the upper car park. They are in the local guide.
 GrahamD 31 Mar 2014
In reply to jon:

The local guide is also pretty easy to use. We got ours from the tourist office in the village.
 JamButty 31 Mar 2014
In reply to jon:

I was referring more to the 2500 miles. Hell of a way, so I'd look to break it up.
Graeme G 31 Mar 2014
In reply to JamButty:

> Its a hell of a drive for just a crag

That was my thinking. Flying definitely looks like the option.
 robandian 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

Single pitches up to 38m so needed a 70m rope to lower on stretch. Multi pitch routes on right are really good. We went Eurostar and TGV to Avignon (6 hours from London !!) then drove over via Dentelles and several other crags.
Graeme G 31 Mar 2014
In reply to robandian:

Did you take a car on TGV or hire one when you got there?

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