/ Tendon Injury

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Oliver Smaje on 31 Mar 2014
Hi,

After trying to push my grade a couple of weeks back with as much style as a drunk gorilla I injured a tendon in my hand/wrist. It doesn't hurt when resting or during normal activity but hurts a fair bit along the tendon of my third (ring) finger when pushed against the thumb or sometimes when used on its own (feels fine when lifting with all fingers, even reasonably heavy loads). Anyone suffered a similar injury or have any tips to help with the healing?

Cheers,
Ollie
wilkesley - on 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Oliver Smaje:

A few years ago I injured a tendon in my wrist and thumb. You could feel it grinding against its sheath (crepitation). I ended up with my hand, wrist and thumb in a pot for 2 weeks. Not being able to manage without using my thumb I hacksawed off that bit of the pot after a couple of hours.

General advice seems to be immobilization and rest. I would definitely suggest going to your doctor, as untreated injuries can lead to permanent damage.
rogersavery - on 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Oliver Smaje:

ive had lots of tendon injuries

go to your doctor, who will almost definitely say 'rest it', then ask for a referral to a physio

the physio will give you exercises to do that will lightly load and stretch the tendon

don't expect a quick fix though, the blood flow to tendons in very limited, so repair can take some time
Oliver Smaje on 31 Mar 2014


Cheers, guess ill go to the doctors then and just try to be patient.
stvey - on 31 Mar 2014
In reply to Oliver Smaje:

I'm in similar situation mate. Tendon for ring finger and perhaps little finger are injured in right hand. To begin with I did a lot of icing to reduce swelling and rested for a while (~ 2 weeks). I was advised to get back to easy climbing soon to get some blood flowing to site of injury but I very quickly aggravated it and made it worse :( - had pain in the muscles in the forearm almost as far back as the elbow. Since then I have not been climbing at all (about another two weeks now). I iced my forearm at the areas that were worse for a while but have stopped that now as the forearm muscle has stopped hurting. Now I am doing regular ice baths for my hand to try and promote the Lewis reaction which some physios/ climbers advocate (see Dave Macleod's blog for info). I'm also starting to use a light tension "Grip Master" to exercise my fingers and get some blood to flow, also doing some massage, and some light stretching etc.... Don't know how long it might be til I climb again, perhaps soon but sticking to vertical / slabs with large holds...
Oliver Smaje on 01 Apr 2014
In reply to stvey:

Hi

Cheers for the link to the blog and your advice. Icing sounds good. Hope you recover soon too :) pretty sh*tty with the recent improved weather!
ashtond6 - on 02 Apr 2014
In reply to Oliver Smaje:

exactly the same issue here too

injured it 8 weeks ago - gets slightly better then gets worse again

Rest it more than you think

Light finger exercises (stress ball etc)

Light climbing but NOT INDOOR - at the moment, i am climbing E2/3 outside (slabs/vertical) but 5's indoor hurt alot

Use ice only if swollen - if not swollen, use regular heat

Takes a long time...
krikoman - on 02 Apr 2014
In reply to Oliver Smaje:

> Cheers, guess ill go to the doctors then and just try to be patient.

If you go to the doctors you will automatically be patient.

I was going to be a doctor, but didn't have the patients.
Oliver Smaje on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

Hi, thanks for the reply. Started using a stress ball.

> Use ice only if swollen - if not swollen, use regular heat

As in warm water?

recover soon yourself!

cheers

ashtond6 - on 04 Apr 2014
In reply to Oliver Smaje:

Hi,

I've been using a cherry stone pillow which you put in the microwave:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Opal-548305-Cherry-Stone-Pillow/dp/B0027MCFMU

But i think lots of people do just use warm water

Cant wait to recover myself!

Take it easy if the injury is fresh, tissue needs at least 10 days before u use it for anything, so im told!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Oliver Smaje on 04 Apr 2014
In reply to ashtond6:

Ah, cool, I think I have one of them somewhere.

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