/ NEW REVIEW: Arc'teryx Alpha Comp Hoody

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The Alpha Comp Hoody - a thoroughbred ice climber's jacket, 3 kbA thoroughbred ice climbing jacket using a composite of hardshell and softshell materials.

But does this mix of materials make it versatile beyond is specific niche?

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6216

In reply to UKC Gear:

And in use with a funky backing track here http://www.vimeo.com/89542002 !
BnB - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks Toby. I thought the specs looked a little lightweight for Scotland and your review confirms that.
Nick Harvey - on 03 Apr 2014
After suffering from overheating in the tropics of Norway this year I am thinking my Speed Ascent stuff needs replacing, its just too warm and inflexible. I was initially looking at this Vs the Pata Mixed Guide Hoody which are the hybrids but am now veering towards the Pata Knifeblade top and bottoms. If I come into some money between now and next winter...
In reply to Nick Harvey:

My mate Henkka (HeMa) has the Mixed Guide hoody, that's definitely it, so like I said (perhaps in the other thread) it's hard shell bits are in weird places such as a strip from the armpit down- where most hybrids have a breathable bit. He is also talking about getting it taken in by seamstress as he thinks it's too loose fitting around the trunk.

Knifeblade looks nice, but the hood on the Alpha Comp Hoody looks much better! Some of patagonia's hoods don't look great over helmets even in their studio pics.
Nick Harvey - on 03 Apr 2014
But how often is Arc'teryx kit heavily discounted!? Cost will be the deciding factor I suspect
HeMa on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Nick Harvey:

Pretty much never...

As Toby said, I have the Mixed guide hoody, and it feels a tad wide in the torso. Also, some of the hardshell panels are indeed in my opinion on the wrong place. But same can be said about the deadbird -jacket...

Knifeblade would prolly be a really good dry ice climbing jacket, but considering the stuff I've climbed in Scandiland... I do wan't some hardshell parts on them jackets.

So guess I'll stick to the mixed guide (after gettin' it trimmed a bit) and rarely use a full on hardshell.
Nick Harvey - on 03 Apr 2014
Well, after this year I am sued to being soaking (albeit from sweat).

Reckon the old Pat Dimension jacket would have been good. Of course, beacuse it was good they stopped making it.
HeMa on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Nick Harvey:


Same as with ReadyMix jacket.

Oh, the mixed guide pants, have seemed rather good though... atleast in pics:
In reply to HeMa:

Yep, they're a really nice colour the ones you found. Notice on the patagonia site they only seem to do black in them at the mo.
DanielJ - on 05 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Looks like a really nice jacket for ice. My geekery will however take me towards the Knifeblade instead. The raving about polartec powershield PRO on amongst many, cold thistle and http://www.thealpinestart.com/2014/01/field-tested-patagonia-knifeblade-jacket-pullover/
sparked my interest. (And that Ill get it at cost price...)

I believe the HH at 10.000mm will be plenty enough for wet iceclimbing. The only way I see it unsufficient is if you climb with a heavy backpack.
sebflynn - on 06 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks perfect for speed accents in full winter conditions if i where to do a speed accent this would be my first choice and who am i you may ask, i am...
In reply to sebflynn:

> perfect for speed accents

Like this you mean? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybcvlxivscw
sebflynn - on 06 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

yes i do :P
PN82 - on 14 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

I bought the original version of the alpha comp hoody in 2005 with 3 layer xcr and softshell and wore it for 3 weeks solid in the alps that summer and can say that in summer alpine conditions the jacket was awesome. The new design looses one chest pocket and uses a more breathable kind of goretex but its good to see the hybrid making a reappearance. It is a very durable and breathable jacket and the hood is fantastic. I don't wear it much in Scotland as it isn't waterproof enough for wet Scottish winters without a waterproof on top and then it becomes too bulky.

To surmise, the best alpine jacket i have ever worn and 9 years on it still looks great although the seems inside are discoloured from the glue degrading. I paid £250 for it in 2005, if i go out to the alps this summer i will be wearing it
alasdair19 on 15 Apr 2014
In reply to Nick Harvey:

I know it can look a bit crap but have u tried paramo? They've just brought. A new smarter looking jacket...
USBRIT - on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

Be careful buying Arcteryx in the UK . If you have a problem with the gear you at your own expense have to return the item to either Switzerland or in the future Sweden.Then its up to them if they think they will replace or repair
In reply to USBRIT:

Some lawyer can correct us I'm sure, but I'm pretty certain with English/Welsh and Scottish law if there is something wrong with something you buy you deal with shop you bought it from not the manufacturer. I always used to think this was just for a year, but now believe I'm wrong on that and actually the contract with the shop is longer than that. Maybe some consumer rights expert can tell us more - but definitely statutory rights mean you always deal with the shop.
Denni on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Shops seems to have nothing to do with it these days.
I recently had a problem with a cinch cord failing, nothing drastic but contacted Arcteryx under my "lifetime warranty".

Anyway, had to return it to Switzerland to a small tailoring business whom Arcteryx use. I got it back 3 weeks later with a note along the lines of "as a courtesy to you because you have purchased an Arcteryx product, we will repair your product in good faith this once".

Not happy at all, I contacted the HQ and they said that my product, a Paclite jacket, wasn't covered under their lifetime warranty despite being told this and it being on the website at the time of purchase in 2010.

I have a particular gripe with Arcteryx at the moment. I have 3 friends who have all purchased paclite jackets and all have failed withn 3-6 months depending on use age. Arcteryx will not repair or replace because according to them, they are paclite jackets and, I forget the wording, shouldn't be used as a normal jacket in the hills. Ie with heavy rucksacks etc. None of this is stated on their website and I find their customer service which was once exemplary is now fairly atrocious.

Here is an example of what they are trying to suggest as far as paclite goes:


PS, I realise this has nothing to do with the Alpha Comp hoody which is great! I have the old 2011 version, excellent jacket :)
In reply to Denni:

> Not happy at all, I contacted the HQ and they said that my product, a Paclite jacket, wasn't covered under their lifetime warranty despite being told this and it being on the website at the time of purchase in 2010.

That sounds bizarre. Have you tried wayback machine or whatever it's called to try and get a screen shot of the website when you bought the jacket?
Denni on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks Toby, didn't realise you could do that. Will investigate that and let you know how I get on.
Thanks for the help, Den
In reply to Denni:

Someone on UKC is probably much better at explaining how Wayback works, but I've used it in the past and don't remember it being desperately complicated. Did you buy it in the UK? Because I'm still pretty certain the shop you use should be your first port of call.
Denni on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Bought it at Snow and rock in. Cov Garden. Still have the receipts, took it to local S and R here and was told that first point of call was Arcteryx.

Pretty shoddy I think.
In reply to Denni:

> Still have the receipts, took it to local S and R here and was told that first point of call was Arcteryx.

> Pretty shoddy I think.

That does just sound wrong. I always thought statutory rights were just a year - but after reading people post here discussing it IIRC its more for the product's reasonable life span. There's clear info the Citizens' Advice Bureau website from what I remember. It may be that the person in Snow and Rock was simply wrong and didn't have the right to tell you that it isn't their problem.
Denni on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

I've checked the t and c's on the Arcteryx website and also had an email back this afternoon.

"What is and what isn't covered by warranty"

Defects in materials or workmanship are covered for the practical lifetime of the product. Material refers to zippers, buckles and fabrics. Workmanship refers to seams, seam tape and construction. Damage due to wear and tears such as rips, tears, abrasion or UV degradation, misuse or neglect is not covered under our warranty policy but may be repairable for a fee.

As it was a hem cinch cord that just snapped, I'm pretty positive that the construction above covers it. The email from the chap stated he agrees with me and is unsure why the tailors shop stated that it wasn't covered under warranty but it may not be covered by the practical lifetime of the product and covertly suggested that over use of the cinch cord could make it deteriorate!

"What does practical lifetime of the product mean?"

"We build our products to last over extended periods of use, but nothing lasts indefinitely. Fabrics will deteriorate and fade over time and moving parts will wear out. We will cover your product under our warranty policy until such a time that we have deemed the product to be worn out beyond reasonable repair. If the product is showing the signs of its age—for instance, the fabric has become thin or faded, there are rips and tears, the zippers no longer catch, or the cuffs are fraying—we will take this into consideration when assessing your product for a warranty request. All gear will suffer from differing degrees of wear-and-tear, depending upon the user. Equipment used by an outdoor guide for 150 days a year will by comparison, degrade faster than gear used by a weekend skier. By taking care of your equipment you will ensure a longer lifetime for your gear. We recommend that you visit our Product Care page for more information on how to wash and care for your equipment. Use your judgment when assessing whether your product is likely to be covered under our warranty policy. It may simply be time to replace your product, and we hope that Arc'teryx will have the opportunity to provide you with superior quality products and service in the future"
Denni on 26 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

And forgot to say, the chap said you are supposed to return it to the shop you originally bought it from (impracticable for me) where they will inspect it and if they deem it to be unsuitable to return due to cleanliness etc etc then they can ask you to go and do this before return which is a fair one and he said some shops will not take the responsibility of sending it as Arcteryx policy states that you have to put a flat value rate of €30 for the contents of the package for customs so if it gets lost, you are buggered and can only claim that amount leaving an unhappy customer for the shop that returns it.

I naturally ignored this and clearly stated what it was and the current RRP. All a bit arse about face and rather frustrating.
USBRIT - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

I talked to them on the phone in Switzerland about one of their products . Outcome I would not send anything out there as it could be a waste of time.In a previous poste I mentioned they are changing returns from Swizerland to Sweden ..actually it will be Denmark.Best to buy from a domestic company.
andrewmcleod - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC Gear:

If Arc'teryx offer some extended warranty above and beyond your statutory rights, and you choose to use this warranty, then yes you deal with Arc'teryx - but by choice.

If the garment is faulty either due to a manufacturing error or design defect within the first six years OR the reasonable lifetime, whichever is shorter, then your statutory rights ensure that you have redress with the retailer (NOT the manufacturer). You may have to prove this in court, but if the product fails in the first six months then the presumption is that the product is faulty and the retailer has to prove otherwise (this is reversed after the first six months).

Your redress will take the form of a repair, replacement or PARTIAL refund (accounting for the use you have had out of the product; for a product that should last 4 years and only lasts 2 you should receive a 50% refund). It is the retailers choice as to which option to take, provided their choice is not unreasonable.

There is obviously no point engaging in a complicated and expensive manufacturer warranty scheme when your statutory rights give you a similar or nearly equivalent rights. So if something breaks off in the first week of a product that should last a few years, technically you may only be entitled to a 98% refund or something but I suspect this never happens in practice and people get a full refund...

In summary, unless you choose differently the retailer (the shop, NOT the manufacturer unless you buy direct) has to deal with your problem!
In reply to andrewmcleod:

Thanks Andrew - that sounds a pretty authoritative description of how it works!
JayPee630 - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:
Yeah, I had a problem with an Arcteryx return a year or so ago after a glued hem and pocket came unstuck, they just point blank refused to take it back after the shop told me to sent it to them, even though it was pretty obviously made by them seems a bit odd.
Post edited at 18:19
In reply to JayPee630:

Did you push it with the shop? It seems from what Andrew wrote above that for a number of years we should be dealing with the shop rather than the manufacturer.

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