UKC

Alpine rock, Alpine style

You only get to pack five bits of pro.

What are they?


e.g.
Friend 1.5
Rock 2
Rock 5
8' sling
and a medium lost arrow...

In reply to JJL:

The wrong five bits if past experiences are anything to go by!

In reply to JJL:

5 big slings.

In reply to JJL:

No Brainer....

5 X BD cams

In reply to JJL:

My choices would be similar to yours:

Wallnut 3
Wallnut 7
Cam equivalent to Friend 2.5 (currently a red Totem on my rack)
2 x 120 cm sling

In reply to JJL:

A Hilti + 4 bolts

In reply to JJL:

Are you allowed carabiners as extras or do they count towards the 5 bits? Also, are you allowed to take a pocket full of stones to use as chocks?

If so you could take a omega pacific link cam, 1 peg (if you have a hammer) and 2 60 cm slings and 1 240 cm sling for belays. if you were to collect a nice range of stones on the way to the route you should have a nice little selection.

In reply to JJL:


Would like to see your face when you realise you can't clip any of those without krabs :0

Ignoring that little fact:

Link cams 0.5/1/2
Tri-cam 0.125
40m of tat (if krabs are on top i assume a knife is as well)

I win.

In reply to JJL:

4 pegs one sling

In reply to gethin_allen:

Yep, and with 40m of tat you could also do knot-gear czech-sandstone-tower-nutter style

In reply to JJL:

I'd like to change my entry, on second thoughts i'd take:

20 pack of cigarettes
lighter
flask of coffee ~(full)
Comfy belay seat
A Honnold/Ueli mini ropegun to lead the pitches

In reply to Mr Lopez:

Sit back and deploy the Steck!

In reply to JJL:

If I'm only allowed 5, I'll take 5 slings.

In reply to JJL:

Excepting the fact I don't like massive runouts, and think anything needing only 5 bits of gear might be a bit short for my preferences...

Either:

DMM Alloy Offsets (7-11 or whatever sizes they claim to be)

or

DMM Alloy Offsets size 7, 9 & 11
Oh Sh*t tiny 00 TCU cam or equivalent
DMM size 1.5 cam or equivalent

In reply to JJL:

2 x 8' slings
3 x Hexes - sizes to be determined but possibly #3, #6 & #8

In reply to JJL:

Assuming sling draws are not included:

Wallnut 3, 5, 8
Hex 4
Camalot 3

Pretty much what I've used in the past

In reply to GrahamD:

That's more or less exactly what I'd take on moderate alpine rock (not including slings and carabiners).

In reply to JJL:

#1 Omega Pacific Link Cam
#2 Omega Pacific Link Cam
one of those large bird beak pegs
a 120 sling
a 240 sling

Krabs aren't pro? So I'm assuming that I have a stash of them.

In reply to JJL:

So on the assumption that carabinas to suit are assumed (as is the bible and the complete works of Shakespeare etc)

I'm going with
Rock 3
Rock 7
Camlot 1
DMM Hex 4 (the blue one)
8' Sling

If i need anything smaller than a 3 then I must be in the shite. In that case I could wedge the joint of the sling in and hope for the best.
The rock 3 can be turned on its side to suit the range between a 3 and the 7.
Stack the 3 and the 7 for a placement bigger than the 7.
Camlot 1 does its own range.
Hex 4 covers the big range.

In reply to JJL:

4 of those fancy link cams and a sling

In reply to JJL:

5 bits of protection:

Helmet
661 Pressure suit
2x Knee/ shin guards
Padded shorts

Given that as it is the alps I'll get lost and fall down a scree slope well before I find my route I don't see the point in taking climbing gear

In reply to JJL:

I don't understand what you are trying to get at with this question:

If you 'need' to climb with only 5 bits of gear you won't be able to choose because it will be due to financial limitations. If you could afford Pacific link cams you'd spend that money on something else.

If you are trying to establish what people would regard as their five most useful bits of gear: Potentially interesting.

If you are suggesting some scenario by which a person with a gun says you'll have to climb a route (unknown) with 5 pieces of gear or they'll shoot you and allows you to wander around a huge gear shop... Not so good.

None of you are bothering with a rope then? I like your style.

In reply to Pete Dangerous:

Harness? Boots?

In reply to JJL:

In the spirit of the OP: my favourite pieces. Rock 2, Stopper 6 or similar (saved my bacon at the top of Concrete Chimney once) a large Hex, Friend 2.5 and a quarter inch angle. Wham that mother in and you're immortal!

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Does anyone make a quarter inch angle? The Chouinard/BD "baby" angle is a half-incher. Perhaps you missed out a "three"; the "standard" angle, which would admirably fit your description of conferring immortality, is a three-quarter-incher. Fortunately pedants are allowed to carry as much gear as they like!

In reply to Ian Parsons:

You are quite correct - though the quarter inch was a pretty useful little rascal as well. (And let's not forget leepers, though there did seem to be a lot of metal for a relatively small amount of bite.)

They were so good in Chamonix, I know it's not PC but banging one of those mothers home was so much better than clipping a bolt.

In reply to Rob Exile Ward:



I once saw a Polish pair in the Dollies pushing up a new route - arrived at a reasonable foothold and tap-bang-bang-BANG-clip-tap-bang-bang-BAMG-clip and there he was. The second led through and then tap-tap-tap-JERK-tap-tap-tap-JERK and he was away.

Neither process took more than a minute.

In reply to JJL:

Green dragon, walnut 4 and 7, double length sling, gold torque nut

In reply to JJL:

assuming a couple of 60cm sling draws don't count as "pro"

a #3 Moses tomahawk
wallnut 3
1.0 tricam
#2 torque nut (red)
smallest camp baby angle

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:



I agree. I also can't understand why that woman on Radio 4 is complicit in so many people being abandoned ill-equipped on a desert island with a load of music. Surely making a choice of food and survival equipment would be more useful. I'd listen.

In reply to JJL:

Green torque nut
Wall nuts 1 and 6
Green Dragon
Toilet Paper (soft, for my nerves, but also ideally enough to build a landing mat)

In reply to JJL:

I think I would just take five log prussuk loops that can be used as slings or quick draws. My experience of alpine routes is that they are generally littered with pitons and no (real) gear is actually required.