UKC

Hello

Has anyone done any routes on the moutain or on the cengalo that aren't N ridge, cassin, another day in paradise?

I have the 1995 AC guide which has lots of enticing climbs....

regards
Alasdair

In reply to alasdair19:

No, I have done only those three, but I have done the Northwestpillar on the neighbouring Cengalo which is excellent and you will have it to yourself (or at least there won't be many crowds.( Makes a great two day round trip. Up NW pillar down to Gianetti hut on the italian side, up the via vinci, SW ridge next day and walk back round, satisfaction and sore feet guaranteed!

In reply to alasdair19:
Oh, and there are two more up to date guides now that are better than the AC 1995 as the glaciers and condititons of routes have changed so much. One is called Solo Granito and the other one I can't think of right now.

In reply to alasdair19:

I've done Flatiron on the nearby Pizzi Gemelli. Lovely route, acres of pleasant granite padding with reasonable protection - pity it was the only thing we really got done on that trip because that day was followed up by 2 weeks of torrential rain.

I think the other guide that Heike is talking about is probably Plaisir Sud. It's available in French, German or Italian but is generally fairly comprehensible (we got by with my mediocre German).

In reply to Heike:

thanks for that Heike, i heard the cengalo route has 2 or 3 extra pitchs on the bottom due to recession? what time of year were you there? I'm thinking this has been a relatively dry year so the glaciers might be minging?

In reply to kathrync:

I thought plasar sud was available in French, German and Italian all in the same guide! I don't think it covers many routes on Piz Badile but I'll have a look later if the OP is interested.

In reply to kathrync:

Thanks I have an old plaisir sud guide they're pretty good did you continue to the top of the flatiron or rap off once past the difficulties?

In reply to kathrync:

No, not Plaisir Sued Kathryn, because a lot of the more adventurous (i.e. non bolted climbs have been taken out of Plaisir Sud (including the Cassin). There is another new guide, either Swiss or Italian. I'll check it later.

In reply to alasdair19:

Yeah, there are some unpleasant few pitches to overcome at the bottom, not to difficult just a bit new/rubbely (if that's a word). We did it in early August if I remember rightly. Glacial approach is not great, but then it's not very long, best to suss it out the evening before.

In reply to Heike:
Ah, maybe I have the wrong one then. I don't have a copy any more so I can't verify which one it was. We were planning on doing the Cassin so I don't think we would have bought a guide which didn't cover it.


Edited to add:
It looks like a new edition of Plaisir Sud was issued in 2011. We were there a couple of years before that so we would have had the older edition which apparently did cover the Cassin. Whatever, it doesn't really help anyone who wants to do the more adventurous routes now anyway.

In reply to alasdair19:

I would love to go back Ringo Star on the NW face of the Badile

http://www.summitpost.org/ringo-star-nw-face/322210

The corner pitch especially looks stunning.

In reply to alasdair19:

The Via Vinci on the Cengalo is a great route. I think it used to be bolted but they were all gone when I did it a couple of years ago. Several reqlly nice pitches in the HVS/E1 range and a lot of great views and exposure.
There's supposed to be a bolted descent from somewhere near the top of the Punta Angel but we couldn't find it Luckily we'd brought crampons so went to the summit of the cengalo and down the normal route, which is pretty straightforward.
A good guide book for Bregaglia if you read german is Nichts als Granit, aka Solo Granito in Italian. Has some decent topos.

In reply to garrett85:

There was some large rockfall off the north face of the Cengalo last year and the one before - the path to the hut from the west was closed because of it. It would be a good idea to check the latest state of things if possible!

There was a video a UKC member made of climbing the Buglessen(?) and Nordkante, which is worth checking out.

I've also had recommended routes on the south face of the Cengalo, starting from the Genetti hut. Lots to choose from there, including the classic south ridge at TD.

In reply to alasdair19:

Not a dry year at all in Val Bregaglia, they've got a lot of snow. Excellent ski touring conditions and also perfect for north faces right now.

The Gaiser/Lehmann on the NW pillar of Cengalo has not been affected by the rockfall (which came from the NE face). However, the trail linking the Sciora and Sasc Furä huts over the Viäl is no longer doable (i.e. the Gaiser/Lehmann needs to be approached from the Sasc Furä).

In reply to Cellinski:

thanks for that everyone, that's objectives sorted now i need to fine tune the team!

In reply to GuyVG:

beautiful line!

I wonder about the seriousness of the middle section, as the climberland report mentions difficult route finding for four pitches across unprotected slabs up to (french) 6a...

In reply to alasdair19:

We're looking at going here this year and haven't done any climbing here before. Is there a guide that now covers both the classics (Ridge and Cassin etc) as well as some of the more adventurous climbs?

In reply to crag_hopper_Jay:

Yes, solo granito or in german nichts als granit!

In reply to Heike:


Cheers!

In reply to alasdair19:

Apparently there is a new route on the south face as well, mid level difficulties (5c IIRC), that looked really interesting. Would have to check in one of the last issues of Vertical, but can´t find it at the moment.

CB

In reply to LJC:



That would be this one!
youtube.com/watch?v=25P5WJVV-MU&
Both superb days out...

In reply to alasdair19:

Hi are you looking for people to go with?

Been before and keen

cheers

In reply to alasdair19:

Done the Via Molteni on the south side - relatively easy & very pleasant. A lot shorter than the N. side routes and the standard descent vastly preferable to abs down the N. Ridge. Quite a bit of other good stuff from the Gianetti.

Planning to be back in the area again this year, pbly. early September & would definitely be interested in hooking up with others for the Cassin / N. Face / Ridge of the Cengalo / Ringo Starr.

In reply to alasdair19:

I've done the South Ridge of the Cengalo. It is very good. Cover picture on the AC guide I think. Beware the abseil descent on the west side from the end of the difficulties though (we took it because the weather crapped out and had a rather harrowing time - final free hanging abseil off a single nut just touched down on 60m ropes, though I think we got off line in the clag! Much better to go to the summit obviously)

In reply to alasdair19:

Just realised the S Ridge is the Via Vinci someone else mentioned.

In reply to alasdair19:

Good climbing without the crowds (bit tricky on the descent though):

Via Osio Canali, Pizzo Torrone Orientale, from Bivacco Manzi, Val di Mello.

http://mountaincafe.altervista.org/files/VIE/M4N/TorroneOr.pdf