UKC

Off to Pembroke with a mate for 3 days in the van. Recommendations for must do crags/ routes in the HVS-E4 range?

Been once before but didn't get much done as was with uni climbing club.
Looking forward to the proper Pembroke experience.

Also for van friendly places to kip.

In reply to CharlieMack:

This one always seems very popular at the bottom of your Grade range

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24955

In reply to CharlieMack:

Deranged E2 at St Govans - cracking route and to be honest, the campsite costs something like £3 a night. Worth it just to have a loo and somewhere to park the van whilst you get the beer in.

In reply to CharlieMack:

Mother Carey's is fantastic across your grade range all the way from Rock Idol, Strait Gate through Brazen Buttress, Deep Space to Zeppelin and Star Gate. Mind you, you can't go far wrong on St Govan's either...

In reply to CharlieMack:

Pick any route. You won't go far wrong.

Rock Idol at E1 in Mother Careys looks awesome.

Bludgeon on Stennis Head is a good HVS.

In reply to CharlieMack:
Personally, I think Mother Carey's is the stand-out crag, with superb routes in that range. You can do stuff when the tide's in too if you're canny.

Huntsman's Leap is a cool place to climb and a must-visit venue - although the climbing itself is not really that amazing, being almost always slightly damp, and thus chalk-caked. Stackpole is really cool, but it's very tidal.

At HVS, the traverses are often the best routes, from the highly solo-able (if you're climbing up to E4 that is) Riders On The Storm, to Heart of Darkness (best finished up New Morning, at E1) and Pigs On The Wing (not done it, looks wild).

Extremely good E1s include Lucky Strike, Strait Gate, Wishful Thinking and Sealhunt.

Extremely good E2s include Keelhaul, Deep Space (easy when dry), Brazen Buttress, Silver Shadow.

Extremely good E3s include Pleasure Dome, Gravy Train (mental!), Star Gate, Swordfish.

I've only led a couple of the bottom-end E4s, which were Star Wars (sustained E2 climbing, with a bold bit at the start, but in a serious situation that possibly bumps it up to tickle E4) and Trevallan Pillar.

This video shows 3 of the most famous routes, I don't reckon they're necessarily the best (although they are very good of course).

http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1794

There are loads more, have a great time.