/ Gritstone routes with no protection

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Big Lee - on 03 Apr 2014
I climb VS to E1 and have a strange affinity towards routes with no protection. They always seem easy to me. Probably because my head is stronger than my arms. So, besides Sunset Slab, what other routes fall into this bracket. Interested in routes that may as well be solo'ed rather than routes that are simply bold leads, have spaced gear, or ground fall potential. Eg Three Pebble Slab doesn't count :-)
lummox - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Cooper's Slab, Rocky Valley. Doris Ilkley quarry.
Sir Chasm - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee: Cow Udder, Ilkley.

pasbury on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Townsends Variation
johncoxmysteriously - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to pasbury:

Is that right? It often is soloed, but you're a hell of a long way up in the air. Is there really nothing you could put in low down that would do you any good?

jcm
petegunn on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Permutation Rib E1 and Rabbit's Paw Wall HVS at Caley (probably considered as highballs now)
Jon Stewart - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

The Irrepressible Urge is a favourite of mine.

For two pitches of unprotected E1 slab, there's Stumpy and Tom Cat Slab at Stanage. At Marble Wall, Don's Delight is an unprotected HVS that's 5b all the way and has an abysmal landing (work that out!). There are a few little routes up above the Plantation like Shard, Splinter, Flakey Wall etc, all somewhere around HVS with no gear - but these are micro-routes rather than unprotected 'proper' routes, so you'll have to expect some hard climbing I'm afraid. Another unprotected slab at Stanage is called Bobsnob I think, but it's rather escapable and not very good.
Jon Stewart - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Don't think there's any gear on it.
lummox - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart: Fishladder at Earl. Artificial route at Widdop has knack all gear where it counts.

john arran - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

There's a route at Yarncliffe Quarry called Chalked Up that I remember as a very pleasant E1 5a with no memory of any protection options.
Jon Stewart - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to petegunn:

> Permutation Rib E1 and Rabbit's Paw Wall HVS at Caley (probably considered as highballs now)

Good call! Permutation Rib is a classic of the genre, brilliant route (and definitely not to be approached as a highball).
Al Evans on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to john arran:

> There's a route at Yarncliffe Quarry called Chalked Up that I remember as a very pleasant E1 5a with no memory of any protection options.

You can protect Chalked Up with a bunch of small wires.
Mick Ward - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

There are a couple of pleasant E1 5as at Yarncliffe, close to each other, aren't there?

Agree with John, Townsends Variation feels a little bit up there in the sky. Not a place to throw a wobbler.

Mick
ByEek - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:
I would have said every other route on Yorkshire Grit! :-)

And the grades are knarly to say the least. I have very similar climbing style to you, but I wouldn't solo Cow Udder at Ilkley!
Post edited at 10:54
pasbury on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Nowt until almost at the top iirc
disturbed_one51 - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:
Cinturato and Pedlar's rib at Stanage are all of good length and dont feel like just highballs. IIRC there are some great solo slabs around the left of stanage plantation to nightmare slab area (also a lot of great E2 unprotected slabs such as sundowner and shock horror slab).
There are a few walls at Wharncliffe that are more like scary highballs - tensile test, elastic limit, renrock and split chimmney wall.
Post edited at 11:15
victorclimber - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

if you want routes without Protection do some of the Grit Routes from the 50,s and 60,s and don't take any with you ..have fun
buxtoncoffeelover - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Just solo everything. Climbing without the weight of a rack and trailing rope does feel easier; no tiring/tiresome placing of gear, no rigging of belays, no need to find a partner, no difficult communicating in the wind, nobody to ring for help when the worst happens!! And it does happen, even to the very best. That said, the thrill, danger & satisfaction are a heady mix that is hard to avoid for ever. Nik
Stopsy - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=63780

Without a doubt in that category in my opinion. Had to have a bit of a sit down and pant after topping this one out. A small offset resting in the break made me feel better but would've been no use.
Offwidth - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to pasbury:

You are right, just above the crux, and some just below that point that isn't obvious but can be placed if you know it's there.
Darron - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to pasbury:

Good call. I strayed onto it from the V Diff to the left which I intended to take 2 beginners up. One was so traumatised he refused to follow. The other one married me. A memorable route for a number of reasons :-)
Baron Weasel - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Chalkstorm at the Roaches... E1 if top roped and protected with siderunners, E4 for a pure onsight without side runners.

Could be your perfect route, it was certainly mine:-)
Chris the Tall - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to pasbury:

> Townsends Variation

Good call, even if Offwidth reckons you can get gear in, it's a great solo. If you are happy to solo 4c/5a regardless of exposure then there are few places better than the Popular end (unless it's busy, and people are dropping ropes on you!)

Theres also a nice route called Dovers Progress at Burbage North. Gets no stars, but I reckon it's every bit as good as it's neighbour Knights Move

Sundowner is an obvious step up from Sunset Slab
BnB - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Another one at Ilkley

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28212

Yes you can protect the first third, but beyond that you are soon out there. Very easy climbing for the grade, 5a at most, and can't be any harder 'cos I got up it.
John_Hat - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to BnB:

There's three or four routes on that buttress that are all unprotectable for the second half. 2xE3 and an E1 if I recall correctly - or possible 2xE1.

One of the E1's is harder than all of the others though, regardless of grade - or at least I found it so..

Sinister Rib was my first E3:-)
Al Evans on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to John_Hat:

Has no one mentioned Great Slab at Froggatt yet?
johncoxmysteriously - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

> Has no one mentioned Great Slab at Froggatt yet?

I doubt anyone who's read the OP's request for VS to E1 routes with no protection has! Unless we're saying that since he can climb protected E1s he should be able to manage gearless E3s....

jcm
caradoc - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Crescent ArÍte, definitely a route not a boulder problem.
Coel Hellier - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Prelude to Space, HVS 4c, Roaches Skyline, if you're in the area.
Mike Stretford - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to caradoc:

> Crescent ArÍte, definitely a route not a boulder problem.

Damn site harder than Sunset Slab IMO.
Offwidth - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris the Tall:

I must be clear the gear near the crux is well hidden for an onsight lead at a point of maximum risk where most people wont be relaxed enough for a good look. The next gear is more obvious but by then you have already succeeded. IMHO Townsend's is an exceedingly bold onsight and very much worth its H in the definitive HVS.
Calum Wadsworth - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Eclair at Lawrencefield has no gear until about 1m below the top. Quite a nice slab route too.
Blackmud on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Stopsy:
Nah, good cams at the first break and you can stop a leader decking from above the crux if the belayer lobs off the back of the big ledge that the climb starts on (It was a perfect plan and my mate only scratched his finger on the way down).

My suggestions would be Pedlar's slab and Bobsnob at Stanage for genuinely unprotected climbs, but soloing protected climbs can be great fun too.
Post edited at 15:32
Chris the Tall - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Which side of the arÍte ? I guessing right

It's one of those routes I solo because I've always soloed it, if you know what I mean. I know the moves and know they are well within me. God knows what I was thinking first time I did it.
johncoxmysteriously - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Chris the Tall:

I know what I was thinking the first (and only) time I did it!

I don't remember an arÍte. I would have said more of an undercut slab. Perhaps I have the wrong route.

jcm
Chris the Tall - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

You start off up an undercut slab, as for Jitter Face, but move onto, and around the arÍte, at which point your distance to the ground doubles!

The finishing jugs are wonderful

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=73211
Big Lee - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Coel Hellier:
> (In reply to Big Lee)
>
> Prelude to Space, HVS 4c, Roaches Skyline, if you're in the area.

Like the look of this!

Big Lee - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to pasbury:
> (In reply to Big Lee)
>
> Townsends Variation

Looks good as well!
LakesWinter on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Yeah Prelude to Space is a great route and absolutely no gear at all.
I'd also agree with the recommendations of Crescent Arete at Stanage and Dover's Progress at Burbage North.

On another note, this thread has got me psyched for Townsends if there's actually gear on it
Carless - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Anyone mentioned the Rugosity Wall routes?
jkarran - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Huh, I only remember Prelude to Space being about 3 moves long but it clearly looks like a real route in pictures.

I can't think of many real routes (ignoring big problems and micro-routes) in that sort of grade range with *no* gear, plenty with very little or nothing meaningful.

Steve's Wall and Paul's Arete at the left end of Slipstones probably scrape into the route bracket, maybe the wall more so. The Caley examples are the only others that spring to mind.

jk
Duncan Bourne - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Grotto Wall, HVS 4c Stanage 2 stars, no gear (where it matters), thin but relatively easy crux but do you have the bottle?
Wedge Rib VS 5a, Stanage. A mini Archangel with a crappy landing.
I think some body already mentioned Townsend Variation but Jitter Face HS and Kirkus Original HVS 4c in the same area are worth a look.
Cinturato E1 5b, Stanage. A fine buzz at the grade without a belayer up the slope on the left (not that it would make much difference in my opinion)
Incursion E1 5b End Slab Stanage. Apart from some little use gear at the start I don't remember anything particularly good on this gear wise.
Slip Arete E2 5b Chatsworth. A bold head will see you through.
Peter Rabbit HVS 4c Curbar
Long John's Slab E3-ish 5c. Hard start over a not-very-nice landing but eases the higher you go.
CurlyStevo - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

is this just a grade thing or do you actually prefer soloing? or is it the style of routes with no cracks (and probably not many pockets either)?
Michael Hood - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to john arran:

> There's a route at Yarncliffe Quarry called Chalked Up that I remember as a very pleasant E1 5a with no memory of any protection options.

Certainly had an RP when I did it many years ago - but I don't remember thinking that I'd be happy to fall on it :-(
Michael Hood - on 03 Apr 2014
In reply to pasbury:

Townsend's has gear on it if you're inventive but it's of the "giving your second the giggles" variety.

Actually I think there's a reasonable crack below your feet when you get above Censor but I can't remember whether I put gear in or was too worried about downclimbing to it.
Bertbee - on 05 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

You wouldn't want to fall off Permutation Rib - I remember being pretty happy getting to the top of it, after having the wind pick up and blow my hat off two-thirds from the top.
Albachoss - on 05 Apr 2014
In reply to Big Lee:

Pedlar's Slab - Stanage popular

All difficulties at a safe height, unprotected and make for some great climbing. Gear appears higher up but is unnecessary.

Enjoy!

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