UKC

I climb VS to E1 and have a strange affinity towards routes with no protection. They always seem easy to me. Probably because my head is stronger than my arms. So, besides Sunset Slab, what other routes fall into this bracket. Interested in routes that may as well be solo'ed rather than routes that are simply bold leads, have spaced gear, or ground fall potential. Eg Three Pebble Slab doesn't count

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Cooper's Slab, Rocky Valley. Doris Ilkley quarry.

In reply to Mr. Lee: Cow Udder, Ilkley.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Townsends Variation

In reply to pasbury:

Is that right? It often is soloed, but you're a hell of a long way up in the air. Is there really nothing you could put in low down that would do you any good?

jcm

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Permutation Rib E1 and Rabbit's Paw Wall HVS at Caley (probably considered as highballs now)

In reply to Mr. Lee:

The Irrepressible Urge is a favourite of mine.

For two pitches of unprotected E1 slab, there's Stumpy and Tom Cat Slab at Stanage. At Marble Wall, Don's Delight is an unprotected HVS that's 5b all the way and has an abysmal landing (work that out!). There are a few little routes up above the Plantation like Shard, Splinter, Flakey Wall etc, all somewhere around HVS with no gear - but these are micro-routes rather than unprotected 'proper' routes, so you'll have to expect some hard climbing I'm afraid. Another unprotected slab at Stanage is called Bobsnob I think, but it's rather escapable and not very good.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Don't think there's any gear on it.

In reply to Jon Stewart: Fishladder at Earl. Artificial route at Widdop has knack all gear where it counts.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

There's a route at Yarncliffe Quarry called Chalked Up that I remember as a very pleasant E1 5a with no memory of any protection options.

In reply to petegunn:


Good call! Permutation Rib is a classic of the genre, brilliant route (and definitely not to be approached as a highball).

In reply to john arran:


You can protect Chalked Up with a bunch of small wires.

In reply to Al Evans:

There are a couple of pleasant E1 5as at Yarncliffe, close to each other, aren't there?

Agree with John, Townsends Variation feels a little bit up there in the sky. Not a place to throw a wobbler.

Mick

In reply to Mr. Lee:
I would have said every other route on Yorkshire Grit!

And the grades are knarly to say the least. I have very similar climbing style to you, but I wouldn't solo Cow Udder at Ilkley!

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Nowt until almost at the top iirc

In reply to Mr. Lee:
Cinturato and Pedlar's rib at Stanage are all of good length and dont feel like just highballs. IIRC there are some great solo slabs around the left of stanage plantation to nightmare slab area (also a lot of great E2 unprotected slabs such as sundowner and shock horror slab).
There are a few walls at Wharncliffe that are more like scary highballs - tensile test, elastic limit, renrock and split chimmney wall.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

if you want routes without Protection do some of the Grit Routes from the 50,s and 60,s and don't take any with you ..have fun

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Just solo everything. Climbing without the weight of a rack and trailing rope does feel easier; no tiring/tiresome placing of gear, no rigging of belays, no need to find a partner, no difficult communicating in the wind, nobody to ring for help when the worst happens!! And it does happen, even to the very best. That said, the thrill, danger & satisfaction are a heady mix that is hard to avoid for ever. Nik

In reply to Mr. Lee:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=63780

Without a doubt in that category in my opinion. Had to have a bit of a sit down and pant after topping this one out. A small offset resting in the break made me feel better but would've been no use.

In reply to pasbury:

You are right, just above the crux, and some just below that point that isn't obvious but can be placed if you know it's there.

In reply to pasbury:

Good call. I strayed onto it from the V Diff to the left which I intended to take 2 beginners up. One was so traumatised he refused to follow. The other one married me. A memorable route for a number of reasons

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Chalkstorm at the Roaches... E1 if top roped and protected with siderunners, E4 for a pure onsight without side runners.

Could be your perfect route, it was certainly mine

In reply to pasbury:


Good call, even if Offwidth reckons you can get gear in, it's a great solo. If you are happy to solo 4c/5a regardless of exposure then there are few places better than the Popular end (unless it's busy, and people are dropping ropes on you!)

Theres also a nice route called Dovers Progress at Burbage North. Gets no stars, but I reckon it's every bit as good as it's neighbour Knights Move

Sundowner is an obvious step up from Sunset Slab

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Another one at Ilkley

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28212

Yes you can protect the first third, but beyond that you are soon out there. Very easy climbing for the grade, 5a at most, and can't be any harder 'cos I got up it.

In reply to BnB:

There's three or four routes on that buttress that are all unprotectable for the second half. 2xE3 and an E1 if I recall correctly - or possible 2xE1.

One of the E1's is harder than all of the others though, regardless of grade - or at least I found it so..

Sinister Rib was my first E3

In reply to John_Hat:

Has no one mentioned Great Slab at Froggatt yet?

In reply to Al Evans:


I doubt anyone who's read the OP's request for VS to E1 routes with no protection has! Unless we're saying that since he can climb protected E1s he should be able to manage gearless E3s....

jcm

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Crescent Arête, definitely a route not a boulder problem.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Prelude to Space, HVS 4c, Roaches Skyline, if you're in the area.

In reply to caradoc:


Damn site harder than Sunset Slab IMO.

In reply to Chris the Tall:

I must be clear the gear near the crux is well hidden for an onsight lead at a point of maximum risk where most people wont be relaxed enough for a good look. The next gear is more obvious but by then you have already succeeded. IMHO Townsend's is an exceedingly bold onsight and very much worth its H in the definitive HVS.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Eclair at Lawrencefield has no gear until about 1m below the top. Quite a nice slab route too.

In reply to Stopsy:
Nah, good cams at the first break and you can stop a leader decking from above the crux if the belayer lobs off the back of the big ledge that the climb starts on (It was a perfect plan and my mate only scratched his finger on the way down).

My suggestions would be Pedlar's slab and Bobsnob at Stanage for genuinely unprotected climbs, but soloing protected climbs can be great fun too.

In reply to Offwidth:

Which side of the arête ? I guessing right

It's one of those routes I solo because I've always soloed it, if you know what I mean. I know the moves and know they are well within me. God knows what I was thinking first time I did it.

In reply to Chris the Tall:

I know what I was thinking the first (and only) time I did it!

I don't remember an arête. I would have said more of an undercut slab. Perhaps I have the wrong route.

jcm

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Like the look of this!

In reply to pasbury:

Looks good as well!

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Yeah Prelude to Space is a great route and absolutely no gear at all.
I'd also agree with the recommendations of Crescent Arete at Stanage and Dover's Progress at Burbage North.

On another note, this thread has got me psyched for Townsends if there's actually gear on it

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Anyone mentioned the Rugosity Wall routes?

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Huh, I only remember Prelude to Space being about 3 moves long but it clearly looks like a real route in pictures.

I can't think of many real routes (ignoring big problems and micro-routes) in that sort of grade range with *no* gear, plenty with very little or nothing meaningful.

Steve's Wall and Paul's Arete at the left end of Slipstones probably scrape into the route bracket, maybe the wall more so. The Caley examples are the only others that spring to mind.

jk

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Grotto Wall, HVS 4c Stanage 2 stars, no gear (where it matters), thin but relatively easy crux but do you have the bottle?
Wedge Rib VS 5a, Stanage. A mini Archangel with a crappy landing.
I think some body already mentioned Townsend Variation but Jitter Face HS and Kirkus Original HVS 4c in the same area are worth a look.
Cinturato E1 5b, Stanage. A fine buzz at the grade without a belayer up the slope on the left (not that it would make much difference in my opinion)
Incursion E1 5b End Slab Stanage. Apart from some little use gear at the start I don't remember anything particularly good on this gear wise.
Slip Arete E2 5b Chatsworth. A bold head will see you through.
Peter Rabbit HVS 4c Curbar
Long John's Slab E3-ish 5c. Hard start over a not-very-nice landing but eases the higher you go.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

is this just a grade thing or do you actually prefer soloing? or is it the style of routes with no cracks (and probably not many pockets either)?

In reply to john arran:


Certainly had an RP when I did it many years ago - but I don't remember thinking that I'd be happy to fall on it

In reply to pasbury:

Townsend's has gear on it if you're inventive but it's of the "giving your second the giggles" variety.

Actually I think there's a reasonable crack below your feet when you get above Censor but I can't remember whether I put gear in or was too worried about downclimbing to it.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

You wouldn't want to fall off Permutation Rib - I remember being pretty happy getting to the top of it, after having the wind pick up and blow my hat off two-thirds from the top.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Pedlar's Slab - Stanage popular

All difficulties at a safe height, unprotected and make for some great climbing. Gear appears higher up but is unnecessary.

Enjoy!