UKC

Was pulling on a crimpy pocket today until I heard a popping sound (well was actually more of a knuckle cracking sound then a pop). Felt numb for minute or two then the pain started in my ring finger.

There doesn't appear to be any swelling at the moment and no real pain just moving it around, just painful when trying to push down and putting pressure on it.

I've injured it before about 3 years ago although last time it was my middle finger as well. Took quite a few months to get back to normal. I'm feeling rather gutted at the moment as I've been climbing really well this year and don't want to loose the gains I've made in the past few weeks.

I've read a few articles overs the years regarding tendon issues and recovery plans, all with slightly different suggestions. The majority suggested complete rest from climbing which makes sense but is easier said then done.

I'm planning on dosing up on ibuprofen for the next couple of weeks and then moving onto hot and cold treatment. Does that sound right or should I be doing hot & cold now as well? Is there anything else I should or shouldn't be doing?

Cheers,

In reply to charley:

Had the same thing in my ring finger earlier in the year (late Jan), clearly depends on the severity of the injury but I had a week and a bit off then started back on juggy stuff and built it up from there - just reduced intensity really. Pretty much back to where I was before now. Tape helps.

In reply to charley:

Give it a rest for maybe a week, maybe more depending on the exact injury. I've found cold treatment useful after the initial stage of the injury and openhanded climbing, any climbing that doesn't cause pain. There's some exercise protocols on the finger rehab article on this site too

In reply to charley:

My GP is a climber. When I went to him a couple of years ago with a damaged but not completely ruptured ring pulley, he prescribed six to eight weeks of plenty of mileage two full grades below max. This worked fine for me.

In reply to charley:

Good article on this here recently by a climbing coach and a physio:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6193

In reply to charley:

Don't think you should be taking Ibuprofin for 2 weeks, more like 3-4 days, 3 times a day *I think* - better than listening to me, ask a professional. And remember all pops aren't equal, generally an audible sound is bad unfortunately but how bad probably noone on the internet can tell you, best get yourself an appointment ASAP with a doctor and/or physio.

PS, Alan lives in Germany so he's lucky - there seem to be quite a few climbing doctors over here, not to mention specialists on almost every street corner that you can go to direct....

PPS, Hello Alan - hope you're well!

In reply to charley:

I did exactly the same a few weeks ago. The cracking sound turned out to be a stress fracture. Probably worth getting it looked at.

In reply to robertmichaeladams:

What taping worked for you? Ive seen the x tape pattern on an article here, Ive got a similar problem R ring finger atm so would like to know also.

In reply to charley:

I took a 3 week break as I waited until there was absolutely no noticeable discomfort (dependant on severity of the injury). It took 3 weeks recovery as I managed to twinge the finger a couple of times doing normal activities and I (stupidly) ignored early discomfort.

During the layoff, I used ibuprofen initially, a little hot/cold treatment but mostly gentle massaging of the pulley.

Now that I am back to (indoor) climbing, I have concentrated on doing vertical, low grade routes (overhang requiring too much grip and slabs potentially crimpy). The first time back, I hurt my finger again as I discovered I was unnecessarily crimping with my ring finger on holds that didn't require it. It recovered quickly as I eased off early in the session.

During the sessions, I also aimed to concentrate on endurance by up/down climbing with the emphasis on mileage and technique...as well as sorting my over grip issue out.

After 2 sessions, I moved up from 4s to 5s but really making sure I took it steady and still vertical routes only...now looking forward to getting some proper outdoor climbing in!

In reply to charley:

Get some sloth DNA injected into your body? They do hang around a lot from their claws.

In reply to ow arm:

No particular pattern, just tape between the bendy bits to provide some extra support. I'm no professional so don't take this as definative advice!

Thanks for the replies. The pain is hardly noticeable (well easy to ignore anyway) when I'm not putting any pressure on it and even then it's not that painful, just feels completely useless..

Feels similar to what I did last time so hopefully it's not anything more serious. Will see how it is in a couple of weeks before considering getting it checked.

In reply to charley: Just in case I need to get it checked, can anyone recommend a specialist in the Nottingham/Lincoln or even Sheffield area?