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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
Psyche video of the week - youtube.com/watch?v=-TeTejh1ebs& (Arnaud Petit climbing 8b with trad gear) - I'll take suggestions for these otherwise I'll pick my faves
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=582880
Summary of last week:
mrchewy - Ouch on the tongue and tooth. The plan sounds good, stick to it!
mbh - If we're both up in the Lakes at the same time, I'd be happy to help with the recceing. Just take it easy with the miles, get better, then get back to it. You don't want to push it too much and re-injure yourself.
Sankey - Maybe throw some core sessions in there? Or some yoga/pilates?
IainRUK - How did the race go? 3rd 100 mile week? Impressive!
hms - Glad you liked Tirpentwys. Sadly there's not that much really hard stuff on Sandstone. Witches Point (right near me) would be a better venue for your grade range.
AJM - 8a!!! You da man! Congrats mate.
biscuit - Good luck with the stopping smoking. Maybe transition to e-cigs and then off them? Least e-cigs will allow your lungs to clear out. Well done with the V6es
Tyler - What's the project? Sounds like good progress.
JimmyKay - Decent training week there.
Alun - You have a garage wall? I'm jealous. Make good use of it. I'd love one. Sounds like a solid week there tho.
AndrewW - Solid training week there.
Humperdink - 65 miles is a decent volume week, esp as you missed days.
grubes - Glad you don't have any mental scars from climbing with me. Sounds like you're getting the time on the bike ready for your ride. good luck with it.
Nomics4sale - Get on the lead. Sounds like an excellent week there. Lots of climbing and running.
mattrm - TRY HARDER YOU USELESS FAT B****R. DRINK LESS. CLIMB MORE. EAT WELL!!!
benky1979 - Worth adding some core stuff into the morning routine? welcome to FC
Just Tintin - What's the MK wall like? Well done on Tough Mudder. Sounds like fun.
Nick Russell - Well done on the 7a+. Sounds like a nice weekend at Portland.
Ally Smith - Congrats on the 8a+
Exile - Getting the rest right is important isn't it? Sounds like a good training week for you.
Si Cox - Did you get the Self Coached Climber drills going? Can provide motivational abuse if needed? See what I say to myself.
Dandan82 - How's the elbow doing? Hope you've fixed the finger. Keep up the rehab.
ppg - immense cardio week as always. How is Baboo Baboo going?
Luke Owens - Nice work on the 7as. Decent gym sessions there.
Joughton - Hadn't realised that was your Dad. Get on the 8as mate, you'll do it quick I'm sure.
Tubb93 - Welcome to FC. You might want to look up SMART goals, as combined with standard 'Climb x' goals, they're a nice way to do things.
Ali - Good luck with Hall of Mirrors, you'll get it I'm sure.
Curious Yellow - Posting late? Tut, tut. Good luck with Bend Sinister.
Two 8as this week from FC's resident crushers. Hopefully a few more of us can get there soon. Don't think I've missed any of the late posters, sorry if I have.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
Psyche video of the week - youtube.com/watch?v=-TeTejh1ebs& (Arnaud Petit climbing 8b with trad gear) - I'll take suggestions for these otherwise I'll pick my faves
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=582880
Summary of last week:
mrchewy - Ouch on the tongue and tooth. The plan sounds good, stick to it!
mbh - If we're both up in the Lakes at the same time, I'd be happy to help with the recceing. Just take it easy with the miles, get better, then get back to it. You don't want to push it too much and re-injure yourself.
Sankey - Maybe throw some core sessions in there? Or some yoga/pilates?
IainRUK - How did the race go? 3rd 100 mile week? Impressive!
hms - Glad you liked Tirpentwys. Sadly there's not that much really hard stuff on Sandstone. Witches Point (right near me) would be a better venue for your grade range.
AJM - 8a!!! You da man! Congrats mate.
biscuit - Good luck with the stopping smoking. Maybe transition to e-cigs and then off them? Least e-cigs will allow your lungs to clear out. Well done with the V6es
Tyler - What's the project? Sounds like good progress.
JimmyKay - Decent training week there.
Alun - You have a garage wall? I'm jealous. Make good use of it. I'd love one. Sounds like a solid week there tho.
AndrewW - Solid training week there.
Humperdink - 65 miles is a decent volume week, esp as you missed days.
grubes - Glad you don't have any mental scars from climbing with me. Sounds like you're getting the time on the bike ready for your ride. good luck with it.
Nomics4sale - Get on the lead. Sounds like an excellent week there. Lots of climbing and running.
mattrm - TRY HARDER YOU USELESS FAT B****R. DRINK LESS. CLIMB MORE. EAT WELL!!!
benky1979 - Worth adding some core stuff into the morning routine? welcome to FC
Just Tintin - What's the MK wall like? Well done on Tough Mudder. Sounds like fun.
Nick Russell - Well done on the 7a+. Sounds like a nice weekend at Portland.
Ally Smith - Congrats on the 8a+
Exile - Getting the rest right is important isn't it? Sounds like a good training week for you.
Si Cox - Did you get the Self Coached Climber drills going? Can provide motivational abuse if needed? See what I say to myself.
Dandan82 - How's the elbow doing? Hope you've fixed the finger. Keep up the rehab.
ppg - immense cardio week as always. How is Baboo Baboo going?
Luke Owens - Nice work on the 7as. Decent gym sessions there.
Joughton - Hadn't realised that was your Dad. Get on the 8as mate, you'll do it quick I'm sure.
Tubb93 - Welcome to FC. You might want to look up SMART goals, as combined with standard 'Climb x' goals, they're a nice way to do things.
Ali - Good luck with Hall of Mirrors, you'll get it I'm sure.
Curious Yellow - Posting late? Tut, tut. Good luck with Bend Sinister.
Two 8as this week from FC's resident crushers. Hopefully a few more of us can get there soon. Don't think I've missed any of the late posters, sorry if I have.
In reply to mattrm:
Making up for it by posting super early this week!!
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder and campus.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Boulder.
Sat - Boulder. Ticked my project - first V7
Sun - Rest.
Amazed at what a difference spending all of my time on harder problems has made to my bouldering this year. I've spent years solid at V3/4 and didn't really believe I could climb any harder.
Off to Kalymnos on Wednesday so I need a pass for next week, last minute plan so I have done zero relevant training! Goals depend on what my partner wants to do but it would be nice to get another 7b+ done.
Dan - when did you do Under Duress? Just if it was recent it would be great to get some beta for friends... it's lost some important holds I think.
Making up for it by posting super early this week!!
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Boulder and campus.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Boulder.
Sat - Boulder. Ticked my project - first V7
Sun - Rest.
Amazed at what a difference spending all of my time on harder problems has made to my bouldering this year. I've spent years solid at V3/4 and didn't really believe I could climb any harder.
Off to Kalymnos on Wednesday so I need a pass for next week, last minute plan so I have done zero relevant training! Goals depend on what my partner wants to do but it would be nice to get another 7b+ done.
Dan - when did you do Under Duress? Just if it was recent it would be great to get some beta for friends... it's lost some important holds I think.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks, yeah Portland is great It's a club trip that runs every year in March, but the last couple of years it rained most of the time so I've not climbed much there before.
M - Swimming: 20mins core + stretching then 3.7km
T - Afternoon at the Roaches. A couple of easier classics then committed to the rockover on The Swan (E3 5c). I had a bit of a history with that route, so good to finally do it!
W - North Wales. Weather wasn't great (wind and intermittent light rain), so did a few easy classics, approach shoes, 3 of us moving together alpine style. Flying Buttress on the Cromlech is really good!
T - Rest
F - 8km easy run
S - TCA bouldering followed by standard core/antagonist set. First time I've done a proper bouldering session in ages. It should come back pretty quickly if I go more consistently (which is the plan) for a few weeks.
S - 10km run with 3x1km intervals (1km easy recovery). 3:41, 3:41, 4:01. 1km intervals make me feel sick.
I've been feeling pretty tired towards the end of this week. Probably because of too much driving Tue, Wed and a poor night sleep bivvied under the Cromlech boulders. Actually, the whole idea was a bit silly: who goes from Bristol to N. Wales for a day, via Staffordshire grit? But a friend of mine had a couple of days between jobs and (being a student) I can take a couple of days off midweek if I want to... A couple of pints last night probably didn't help with performance on today's run - I'm such a lightweight these days (which I'm going to view as a positive thing).
Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter.
Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most^ of the 'Staffordshire nose'. 8/31 routes climbed.
At least 2 more E4 attempts.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 114/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
*Progression here is:
1) Get to the top, work out some moves
2) Work out all the moves in isolation, some sequences
3) Overlapping halves
4) Send
^Some of the Hen Cloud routes are bird banned, so can't do them all.
> Nick Russell - Well done on the 7a+. Sounds like a nice weekend at Portland.
Thanks, yeah Portland is great It's a club trip that runs every year in March, but the last couple of years it rained most of the time so I've not climbed much there before.
M - Swimming: 20mins core + stretching then 3.7km
T - Afternoon at the Roaches. A couple of easier classics then committed to the rockover on The Swan (E3 5c). I had a bit of a history with that route, so good to finally do it!
W - North Wales. Weather wasn't great (wind and intermittent light rain), so did a few easy classics, approach shoes, 3 of us moving together alpine style. Flying Buttress on the Cromlech is really good!
T - Rest
F - 8km easy run
S - TCA bouldering followed by standard core/antagonist set. First time I've done a proper bouldering session in ages. It should come back pretty quickly if I go more consistently (which is the plan) for a few weeks.
S - 10km run with 3x1km intervals (1km easy recovery). 3:41, 3:41, 4:01. 1km intervals make me feel sick.
I've been feeling pretty tired towards the end of this week. Probably because of too much driving Tue, Wed and a poor night sleep bivvied under the Cromlech boulders. Actually, the whole idea was a bit silly: who goes from Bristol to N. Wales for a day, via Staffordshire grit? But a friend of mine had a couple of days between jobs and (being a student) I can take a couple of days off midweek if I want to... A couple of pints last night probably didn't help with performance on today's run - I'm such a lightweight these days (which I'm going to view as a positive thing).
Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter.
Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most^ of the 'Staffordshire nose'. 8/31 routes climbed.
At least 2 more E4 attempts.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 114/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
*Progression here is:
1) Get to the top, work out some moves
2) Work out all the moves in isolation, some sequences
3) Overlapping halves
4) Send
^Some of the Hen Cloud routes are bird banned, so can't do them all.
In reply to mattrm:
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st (1lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 300 dish tucks
T - Rest
F - Routes at Trebanog
S - 300 dish tucks, pullups and pushups
S - DIY
Finally back down to 12st. Off with the family next weekend, so I'm 100% determined to keep up with the weight loss. Suspect this this will lead to some comments about how I'm either odd, a fitness fanatic or too thin. I'd agree that I'm slightly odd. But I'm not that thin really.
Had a mixed session at Trebanog. My mate led a HS for a warm up. I then decided to jump on a HVS I've seconded and top-roped previously. It's got a very hard, perfectly vertical boulder problem at the bottom, before you transition into a crack (which is sadly a bit shallow for full on jamming) which is slightly over hanging. I messed up the transition and took a lead fall onto the first bit of gear I'd placed. Slightly annoyed I'd fell off, but felt good to be taking trad lead falls again. After that went to the 6c that I tried the other week. Didn't have a clip stick so it was a nervous climb up to the first bolt, it's quite high up. Then romped up the middle to below the crux. Fell off on the crux again. Next time I'm going to try the weight shift without bothering to go for the hold. See if just doing that will get me to the right place. Doesn't help that as I'm kind of expecting to fail on the crux, I'm not trying hard and just falling off cause I'm expecting to fall.
Going to try crossfit next week. Hopefully that'll kick start a bit of weight loss. It's an early morning session before work, so won't affect climbing. Wish there was a climbing wall open at 0600 locally. Have a vague plan for a system board in the garden however.
Plan for next week:
M - indoor routes + core + elbows
T - crossfit + elbows
W - bouldering?
T - bouldering (or fingerboard)
F - core + elbows
S - core + elbows
S - core + elbows
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st (1lbs loss)
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 300 dish tucks
T - Rest
F - Routes at Trebanog
S - 300 dish tucks, pullups and pushups
S - DIY
Finally back down to 12st. Off with the family next weekend, so I'm 100% determined to keep up with the weight loss. Suspect this this will lead to some comments about how I'm either odd, a fitness fanatic or too thin. I'd agree that I'm slightly odd. But I'm not that thin really.
Had a mixed session at Trebanog. My mate led a HS for a warm up. I then decided to jump on a HVS I've seconded and top-roped previously. It's got a very hard, perfectly vertical boulder problem at the bottom, before you transition into a crack (which is sadly a bit shallow for full on jamming) which is slightly over hanging. I messed up the transition and took a lead fall onto the first bit of gear I'd placed. Slightly annoyed I'd fell off, but felt good to be taking trad lead falls again. After that went to the 6c that I tried the other week. Didn't have a clip stick so it was a nervous climb up to the first bolt, it's quite high up. Then romped up the middle to below the crux. Fell off on the crux again. Next time I'm going to try the weight shift without bothering to go for the hold. See if just doing that will get me to the right place. Doesn't help that as I'm kind of expecting to fail on the crux, I'm not trying hard and just falling off cause I'm expecting to fall.
Going to try crossfit next week. Hopefully that'll kick start a bit of weight loss. It's an early morning session before work, so won't affect climbing. Wish there was a climbing wall open at 0600 locally. Have a vague plan for a system board in the garden however.
Plan for next week:
M - indoor routes + core + elbows
T - crossfit + elbows
W - bouldering?
T - bouldering (or fingerboard)
F - core + elbows
S - core + elbows
S - core + elbows
In reply to mattrm:
Fingers are feeling a bit tweaky at the moment with all the training - especially my ring finger. So I'm going to rest them this week and carry out hot cold treatment just to aid recovery. Will be hitting core and fitness instead to keep myself ticking over.
M-Boulder and Core
T-Boulder and Core
W-Board and Core
T-Board and Core
F-rest
S-Boulder and Board. Flashed a v8+ @ BC.
S-Core and Run
Fingers are feeling a bit tweaky at the moment with all the training - especially my ring finger. So I'm going to rest them this week and carry out hot cold treatment just to aid recovery. Will be hitting core and fitness instead to keep myself ticking over.
M-Boulder and Core
T-Boulder and Core
W-Board and Core
T-Board and Core
F-rest
S-Boulder and Board. Flashed a v8+ @ BC.
S-Core and Run
Post edited at 15:42
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for the summary Matt.
M - Training session outside. Warm-up then: 4x6a+, 2x6b, 3x6b+ (in sets of 3)
T - Resting.
W - Training session outside, mostly endurance based. Led all the slab routes at my local crag (along with a mate) as quickly as we could. 12 routes, mostly in the 5a - 5c range, about 180m in all completed in under 1 hr 50 mins. Then warmed down doing 6a+, 6b, 6b+ without resting.
Th - Resting.
F, S, Sn - ill with my 'trouble'. Bollox.
Thanks for the summary Matt.
M - Training session outside. Warm-up then: 4x6a+, 2x6b, 3x6b+ (in sets of 3)
T - Resting.
W - Training session outside, mostly endurance based. Led all the slab routes at my local crag (along with a mate) as quickly as we could. 12 routes, mostly in the 5a - 5c range, about 180m in all completed in under 1 hr 50 mins. Then warmed down doing 6a+, 6b, 6b+ without resting.
Th - Resting.
F, S, Sn - ill with my 'trouble'. Bollox.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing fit club, Matt, and for inviting me to Trebanog. As is was, my weekend implementation at work had its moments and thoroughly got in the way of stuff, but I dont have another for some time so can't grumble too much.
M cycle commute. UCR in evening, trying routes from the youth comp at the weekend. Which reminded me yet again how much I dislike comp routes - perfectly lovely 6c type techy route, totally ruined by 3 ~7a+ top moves and then they stick 6c+ on the card - sandbags!
T cycle commute, then evening TRX session, followed up by a reasonabe length finger board session. Tired.
W day off work (cos of weekend implementation) all lined up to climb outside in afternoon but it rained. Boo. Went to Bloc instead. Managed a few problems which had previously defeated me, but didn't get on well with some of the newly set ones. Did dare to try a few of the yellow (6b - 7a) and didn't disgrace myself. Such a wide range i the colour, I assume I cherry picked the easier end to try.
T cycle commute then routes at Redpoint in evening. Extraordinarily hot & sweaty. Didn't get on well.
F cycle commute. As I had to stay late at work, sneakily siddled out for the afternoon and spent it at UCR with daughter. 10 routes in relaxed singles 6a 6a 6a+ 6b+ 6c+ 6c 7b 6c 6 6b+. The 7b was really smooth & confident but I still came off at the crux. Pulled bak on and lead to top cleanly with no cheat feet (it's really easy to 'accidentally' bridge onto another hold)
S rest day
S hand holding at work. Managed a TRX session when people had stopped panicking.
Next few days are unlikely to amount to v much at all due to work fallout. Off to Hathersage on Thurs. Out of interest, can anone advise if Cheedale upper will be ok to climb at the mo? There's a 7B there that looked good, but may not fit in with rest of family's aims for the week.
Thanks for doing fit club, Matt, and for inviting me to Trebanog. As is was, my weekend implementation at work had its moments and thoroughly got in the way of stuff, but I dont have another for some time so can't grumble too much.
M cycle commute. UCR in evening, trying routes from the youth comp at the weekend. Which reminded me yet again how much I dislike comp routes - perfectly lovely 6c type techy route, totally ruined by 3 ~7a+ top moves and then they stick 6c+ on the card - sandbags!
T cycle commute, then evening TRX session, followed up by a reasonabe length finger board session. Tired.
W day off work (cos of weekend implementation) all lined up to climb outside in afternoon but it rained. Boo. Went to Bloc instead. Managed a few problems which had previously defeated me, but didn't get on well with some of the newly set ones. Did dare to try a few of the yellow (6b - 7a) and didn't disgrace myself. Such a wide range i the colour, I assume I cherry picked the easier end to try.
T cycle commute then routes at Redpoint in evening. Extraordinarily hot & sweaty. Didn't get on well.
F cycle commute. As I had to stay late at work, sneakily siddled out for the afternoon and spent it at UCR with daughter. 10 routes in relaxed singles 6a 6a 6a+ 6b+ 6c+ 6c 7b 6c 6 6b+. The 7b was really smooth & confident but I still came off at the crux. Pulled bak on and lead to top cleanly with no cheat feet (it's really easy to 'accidentally' bridge onto another hold)
S rest day
S hand holding at work. Managed a TRX session when people had stopped panicking.
Next few days are unlikely to amount to v much at all due to work fallout. Off to Hathersage on Thurs. Out of interest, can anone advise if Cheedale upper will be ok to climb at the mo? There's a 7B there that looked good, but may not fit in with rest of family's aims for the week.
In reply to hms:
If it's any consolation, it's forecast to rain all day tomorrow anyway. Did you try that 6c+ at UCR, which goes up by the stretching area (same wall as that yellow 7a you were trying when we went)? It was nice enough at the bottom, but then totally ruined by a heinous clip and some really blind, crimpy moves right at the top.
> Next few days are unlikely to amount to v much at all due to work fallout.
If it's any consolation, it's forecast to rain all day tomorrow anyway. Did you try that 6c+ at UCR, which goes up by the stretching area (same wall as that yellow 7a you were trying when we went)? It was nice enough at the bottom, but then totally ruined by a heinous clip and some really blind, crimpy moves right at the top.
In reply to JimmyKay: How do your elbows cope with all that bouldering? Mine would be aching considerably after that week...
Any advice would be genuinely appreciated!
Any advice would be genuinely appreciated!
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Wow you're beasting through the bouldering grades - nice work! Look forward to getting well and truly spanked at the BF when you get back from Kaly
Wow you're beasting through the bouldering grades - nice work! Look forward to getting well and truly spanked at the BF when you get back from Kaly
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing Fit Club Matt. Short update for this week:
M - rest
T - run to work - no energy, still trying to catch up on sleep from weekend
W - self-beasting session in the park - pressups, tuck jumps, burpees-to-chin-ups, stand up and lie downs, ski jump things, bench squats and a couple of other exercises I can't remember. Felt it hard to push myself but felt tired and achey after
T - Biscuit Factory - warmed up, did some of the new v2-3 circuit then tried a couple of V4s on the comp wall - one was nails and has a stopper move (for me), got the other one eventually
F - cancelled wall session as worked late
S - rest - tried slacklining for the first time - its so much fun!!! Managed three proper in control steps
S - Long run - 11 miles in 1hr36. Felt ok but pretty tired when finished.
Entered the Rab mini mountain marathon next Sunday in Wales - the long run today was a token attempt at last minute training! Though not sure that it's really going to help with 4 hrs of running :-S
Thanks for doing Fit Club Matt. Short update for this week:
M - rest
T - run to work - no energy, still trying to catch up on sleep from weekend
W - self-beasting session in the park - pressups, tuck jumps, burpees-to-chin-ups, stand up and lie downs, ski jump things, bench squats and a couple of other exercises I can't remember. Felt it hard to push myself but felt tired and achey after
T - Biscuit Factory - warmed up, did some of the new v2-3 circuit then tried a couple of V4s on the comp wall - one was nails and has a stopper move (for me), got the other one eventually
F - cancelled wall session as worked late
S - rest - tried slacklining for the first time - its so much fun!!! Managed three proper in control steps
S - Long run - 11 miles in 1hr36. Felt ok but pretty tired when finished.
Entered the Rab mini mountain marathon next Sunday in Wales - the long run today was a token attempt at last minute training! Though not sure that it's really going to help with 4 hrs of running :-S
In reply to Nick Russell:
I got that 7a in the end too!. No I haven't tried that 6c+ yet. Set by Max who can indeed do challenging routes - I've had a peer at the top section and thought it looked complicated. The sandbag is new, also orange, centre back of the square alcove. There is another new 6c+, not a comp route yellow on the prow to the left of the archway - has some v powerful moves and a couple of mandatory hell-hooks. I ran out of steam just before the top.
I had noted the crappy weather for the next few days with some relief - would be dead annoying if it was wall-to-wall sun!
I got that 7a in the end too!. No I haven't tried that 6c+ yet. Set by Max who can indeed do challenging routes - I've had a peer at the top section and thought it looked complicated. The sandbag is new, also orange, centre back of the square alcove. There is another new 6c+, not a comp route yellow on the prow to the left of the archway - has some v powerful moves and a couple of mandatory hell-hooks. I ran out of steam just before the top.
I had noted the crappy weather for the next few days with some relief - would be dead annoying if it was wall-to-wall sun!
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt - looking forward to reporting in to you for a while chap.
Mon - Off work. Woke up with right shoulder and mid back locked solid.
Tue - Off work. Still not right.
Wed - Rest. Went work but rolling ceilings meant knackered by 3pm.
Thu - No psyche in the boulder room. Got on a rope, did a 5+ and an overhanging 6a easily, then out of breath on a 6b. Back sore, so headed home.
Fri - Boulder room but couldn't breathe at all. Foot on campususing the big rail. 2min/2min/2min/2min with 4 min rests. Boulder.
Sat - Worked. Rest as sore still.
Sun - Worked. Boulder warm up but felt right good. Stuck to plan tho and did repeaters. 7 sets of 14 x 7/3 with foot on.
Okay - never had a bad back, just overdid the training and work I think. The breathlessness was a worry, had to breath in a bag at one point but I think this was brought on by working in a spore ridden cellar for a couple of days. Fine now.
Good stuff - cruised a strong 6a. Flashed it despite it having a roof with a big move and the screwgate done up but no dramas at all. Progress for sure. Managed to fit in both a repeaters and a campus session, with feet on and definite progress there too.
Stick to the plan Kelvin, stick to the plan...
Cheers Matt - looking forward to reporting in to you for a while chap.
Mon - Off work. Woke up with right shoulder and mid back locked solid.
Tue - Off work. Still not right.
Wed - Rest. Went work but rolling ceilings meant knackered by 3pm.
Thu - No psyche in the boulder room. Got on a rope, did a 5+ and an overhanging 6a easily, then out of breath on a 6b. Back sore, so headed home.
Fri - Boulder room but couldn't breathe at all. Foot on campususing the big rail. 2min/2min/2min/2min with 4 min rests. Boulder.
Sat - Worked. Rest as sore still.
Sun - Worked. Boulder warm up but felt right good. Stuck to plan tho and did repeaters. 7 sets of 14 x 7/3 with foot on.
Okay - never had a bad back, just overdid the training and work I think. The breathlessness was a worry, had to breath in a bag at one point but I think this was brought on by working in a spore ridden cellar for a couple of days. Fine now.
Good stuff - cruised a strong 6a. Flashed it despite it having a roof with a big move and the screwgate done up but no dramas at all. Progress for sure. Managed to fit in both a repeaters and a campus session, with feet on and definite progress there too.
Stick to the plan Kelvin, stick to the plan...
In reply to hms:
Long answer: Depends entirely on the sector and the route. I don't recall which end upper is, but I know some of Cheedale is dry now as si has been going there - Embankment I think is dry at least.
Short answer: ask on the Cheedale conditions thread on UkB
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Beasting it.
> Out of interest, can anone advise if Cheedale upper will be ok to climb at the mo? There's a 7B there that looked good, but may not fit in with rest of family's aims for the week.
Long answer: Depends entirely on the sector and the route. I don't recall which end upper is, but I know some of Cheedale is dry now as si has been going there - Embankment I think is dry at least.
Short answer: ask on the Cheedale conditions thread on UkB
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Beasting it.
Post edited at 20:51
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. The route I was wondering about was Beef it at the Embankment, upper Cheedale.
Thanks Andy. The route I was wondering about was Beef it at the Embankment, upper Cheedale.
In reply to mattrm:
I do indeed, and this week I used it again! Thanks for doing the summary.
STG - prepare for trips to Targassone and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a
M - Cycle commute 30km
T - Cycle commute in on road bike. Longer ride home with a couple of decent hills; total 45km. Power Endurance at indoor wall at lunchtime. Felt great.
W - Late night power endurance on garage wall. Felt great.
T - Lunchtime power endurance at indoor wall. Felt super great despite being third day in a row training
F - Nada
S - Nada
S - Lots of wine and cake as usual.
I felt like I turned a bit of a corner this week with the power endurance. Very chuffed. Now it's back to bouldering to prep for Targassone (in only two weeks time!)
> Alun - You have a garage wall? I'm jealous. Make good use of it. I'd love one.
I do indeed, and this week I used it again! Thanks for doing the summary.
STG - prepare for trips to Targassone and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a
M - Cycle commute 30km
T - Cycle commute in on road bike. Longer ride home with a couple of decent hills; total 45km. Power Endurance at indoor wall at lunchtime. Felt great.
W - Late night power endurance on garage wall. Felt great.
T - Lunchtime power endurance at indoor wall. Felt super great despite being third day in a row training
F - Nada
S - Nada
S - Lots of wine and cake as usual.
I felt like I turned a bit of a corner this week with the power endurance. Very chuffed. Now it's back to bouldering to prep for Targassone (in only two weeks time!)
Post edited at 21:18
In reply to Curious Yellow:
I managed to bag the second ascent so it was nearly 3 years ago I think. I've watched someone working it this year and the important holds all appeared the same, so you know what has broken/changed? I can email you all the beta I can remember if it helps anyway?
I managed to bag the second ascent so it was nearly 3 years ago I think. I've watched someone working it this year and the important holds all appeared the same, so you know what has broken/changed? I can email you all the beta I can remember if it helps anyway?
In reply to mattrm:
Nice week, only 70 miles, but 3 full days of skiing plus good hilly runs and a 10 mile race which was a pb.
m: 3.1 mile run. pm: 8.5 mile run 1000ft ascent.
t: 3.1 mile run 6 hours skiing
w: 3.2 mile run. 6 hours skiing. pm: 14 mile road run 1000ft ascent
t 3.1 mile run. 6 hours skiing. 7 mile road run 1000ft ascent.
f: 5 mile run
s: 5.4 mile run Boston, MA. pm: 3.2 mile run DC after 8 hour drive
s: 0.5 mile warm up, 10 mile cherry blossom race, USA 10 mile champs. Actually not a great field to race in, bit of a gap in the seeded runners as elite women went first so normally we're in with them.. but 55:57, new pb so happy enough. 7:30 am start but didnt really warm up enough in the cold weather but got going later on as I found a group to tag on to..
2 mile cool down, with trip to the white house. pm: 4 miles slow.
splits were:
1 5:26
2 5:35
3 5:36
4 5:37
5 5:42
6 5:36
7 5:36
8 5:36
9 5:32
10 5:33
Just that mile 6 where I slowed, but think sub 55 should be OK in the right conditions, the course had 2 180 degree turns which slowed me, plus numerous sharp turns. the missus ran 71:30 so shes's getting stronger.
Nice week, only 70 miles, but 3 full days of skiing plus good hilly runs and a 10 mile race which was a pb.
m: 3.1 mile run. pm: 8.5 mile run 1000ft ascent.
t: 3.1 mile run 6 hours skiing
w: 3.2 mile run. 6 hours skiing. pm: 14 mile road run 1000ft ascent
t 3.1 mile run. 6 hours skiing. 7 mile road run 1000ft ascent.
f: 5 mile run
s: 5.4 mile run Boston, MA. pm: 3.2 mile run DC after 8 hour drive
s: 0.5 mile warm up, 10 mile cherry blossom race, USA 10 mile champs. Actually not a great field to race in, bit of a gap in the seeded runners as elite women went first so normally we're in with them.. but 55:57, new pb so happy enough. 7:30 am start but didnt really warm up enough in the cold weather but got going later on as I found a group to tag on to..
2 mile cool down, with trip to the white house. pm: 4 miles slow.
splits were:
1 5:26
2 5:35
3 5:36
4 5:37
5 5:42
6 5:36
7 5:36
8 5:36
9 5:32
10 5:33
Just that mile 6 where I slowed, but think sub 55 should be OK in the right conditions, the course had 2 180 degree turns which slowed me, plus numerous sharp turns. the missus ran 71:30 so shes's getting stronger.
Post edited at 22:25
In reply to hms:
I did beef it the other week and gave it a good clean on the way, so winter grime has gone but I'm afraid this Saturday the whole dale was covered in seepage again, so it it needs a week of drier weather.
If you want any beta shout up.
I did beef it the other week and gave it a good clean on the way, so winter grime has gone but I'm afraid this Saturday the whole dale was covered in seepage again, so it it needs a week of drier weather.
If you want any beta shout up.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Mattrm, the elbows seem good, the finger however is showing very little signs of improvement, which is very annoying.
It's put me off the boil a bit as far as training goes, only did two sessions this week plus a climb where I mostly stood around and whinged about not being able to climb anything. I'm not sure what I'm going to do in Font, knowing me i'll probably nurse the finger for the first few days and then do something hard at the end of the holiday anyway and moan about how my finger still hurts for 2 months afterwards. Bah.
M: Core; crunches, L hangs, front lever
Rehab; press ups, eccentric pull ups, eccentric bicep curls
Stretches; bicep, pec, back, rotator cuff
T: Shoulder; smith machine press, front barbell raise, lateral raise, machine lateral raise, reverse flys
Stretches; bicep, pec, back, rotator cuff
W:
T: Climb, indoor, not much done
Stretches; bicep, pec, back, rotator cuff
F: Screed dining room floor
S: Lay vinyl flooring
S: More flooring (it's a big room)
I'm icing the finger as often as I can and also heating it up and massaging it several times during the day, anybody got any other top tips for helping it heal? I'm trying my best not to use it at all but it's very easy to give it a slight tweak just gripping the steering wheel funny or picking up a bag etc. These little tweaks aren't particularly painful so I don't think they are dong too much harm, I just think it's going to take time and patience to make it better.
Finally picked up a boulder wall that I bought off a friend, it was a real bargain, £100 for the equivalent of more than three 8x4 panels all t-nutted with stacks of holds, all the supporting framework and even some old gym mats. Hopefully this can spur me on to build a boulder shed to put it in, having somewhere to train at home would be so convenient, and it may even tie in with my finger being healed!
My short term goal is to fix the finger, and try not to break it too much more in Font.
Longer term goals can wait!
Thanks Mattrm, the elbows seem good, the finger however is showing very little signs of improvement, which is very annoying.
It's put me off the boil a bit as far as training goes, only did two sessions this week plus a climb where I mostly stood around and whinged about not being able to climb anything. I'm not sure what I'm going to do in Font, knowing me i'll probably nurse the finger for the first few days and then do something hard at the end of the holiday anyway and moan about how my finger still hurts for 2 months afterwards. Bah.
M: Core; crunches, L hangs, front lever
Rehab; press ups, eccentric pull ups, eccentric bicep curls
Stretches; bicep, pec, back, rotator cuff
T: Shoulder; smith machine press, front barbell raise, lateral raise, machine lateral raise, reverse flys
Stretches; bicep, pec, back, rotator cuff
W:
T: Climb, indoor, not much done
Stretches; bicep, pec, back, rotator cuff
F: Screed dining room floor
S: Lay vinyl flooring
S: More flooring (it's a big room)
I'm icing the finger as often as I can and also heating it up and massaging it several times during the day, anybody got any other top tips for helping it heal? I'm trying my best not to use it at all but it's very easy to give it a slight tweak just gripping the steering wheel funny or picking up a bag etc. These little tweaks aren't particularly painful so I don't think they are dong too much harm, I just think it's going to take time and patience to make it better.
Finally picked up a boulder wall that I bought off a friend, it was a real bargain, £100 for the equivalent of more than three 8x4 panels all t-nutted with stacks of holds, all the supporting framework and even some old gym mats. Hopefully this can spur me on to build a boulder shed to put it in, having somewhere to train at home would be so convenient, and it may even tie in with my finger being healed!
My short term goal is to fix the finger, and try not to break it too much more in Font.
Longer term goals can wait!
In reply to mattrm:
STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
ride my bike - Tick two decent rides
get a climb in somewhere - Tick nice long session at holmfirth with a mate
M: Nothing I think. Wanted to get out on the bike but had to get ready to go away
T: Nothing Crawley with work
W: Nothing London with work
T: Nothing London with work
F: Nothing Reading with work. Drive home sat down for an hour and drove to SHAFF watched wideboyz 2 premier got goodie bag. Enjoyed how their answers had change since before doing the climb to 6 months later after they had done the climb. Had a very quick catch up with pete.
S: Cycled 27.1km 279m ascent.
Holmfirth about 3 hours doing repeats on problems. Good session climbing with H for first time since he had a kid.
S: Cycled 20.9km 193m Ascent. A good ride taking in hills I had been avoiding ready for the final push in my training.
Spent the afternoon with tired legs going stir crazy wanting to climb but not getting a partner.
Next week Goals:
Cycle over 70 miles in the week
Big rides two of them at least
Changing some of my goals as I have decided to stop putting off the issue with my toe and the agony I go through every few weeks sorting them out. So that will be up to 6 weeks off of climbing. Gonna see a doctor and hopefully get it sorted at the end of may so I can be fit again for the winter season.
The riding is going well need to really push my training now with and get in some fitness training before the ride which is only a couple of weeks away. I have the basic fitness and I am comfortable on the bike just need to get the fitness higher. ready for the ride.
I only need to average 10 miles an hour being in the beginner group will hopefully mean that we are all at the same levelish. Going for a team ride on sunday. If anyone wants to know more about my ride you can read this http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal... and then this http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/cycle-training-p4p5.html
I definitely feel being hit by the van has hindered my training as I have not ridden on that bit of road since. I also went back to square one with my confidence if not worse on the road.
> grubes - Glad you don't have any mental scars from climbing with me. Sounds like you're getting the time on the bike ready for your ride. good luck with it.
Thanks Matt Mileage is going to shoot up this week. RE; Psyche vimeo.com/90170272 V4 with 1 leg. HeroSTG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
ride my bike - Tick two decent rides
get a climb in somewhere - Tick nice long session at holmfirth with a mate
M: Nothing I think. Wanted to get out on the bike but had to get ready to go away
T: Nothing Crawley with work
W: Nothing London with work
T: Nothing London with work
F: Nothing Reading with work. Drive home sat down for an hour and drove to SHAFF watched wideboyz 2 premier got goodie bag. Enjoyed how their answers had change since before doing the climb to 6 months later after they had done the climb. Had a very quick catch up with pete.
S: Cycled 27.1km 279m ascent.
Holmfirth about 3 hours doing repeats on problems. Good session climbing with H for first time since he had a kid.
S: Cycled 20.9km 193m Ascent. A good ride taking in hills I had been avoiding ready for the final push in my training.
Spent the afternoon with tired legs going stir crazy wanting to climb but not getting a partner.
Next week Goals:
Cycle over 70 miles in the week
Big rides two of them at least
Changing some of my goals as I have decided to stop putting off the issue with my toe and the agony I go through every few weeks sorting them out. So that will be up to 6 weeks off of climbing. Gonna see a doctor and hopefully get it sorted at the end of may so I can be fit again for the winter season.
The riding is going well need to really push my training now with and get in some fitness training before the ride which is only a couple of weeks away. I have the basic fitness and I am comfortable on the bike just need to get the fitness higher. ready for the ride.
I only need to average 10 miles an hour being in the beginner group will hopefully mean that we are all at the same levelish. Going for a team ride on sunday. If anyone wants to know more about my ride you can read this http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/pedal-for-pounds-5-my-biggest-chal... and then this http://grubesblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/cycle-training-p4p5.html
I definitely feel being hit by the van has hindered my training as I have not ridden on that bit of road since. I also went back to square one with my confidence if not worse on the road.
In reply to mattrm:
Well done for taking a lead fall always good to get one in at the start of a season as it gives you confidence you can still place gear
Well done for taking a lead fall always good to get one in at the start of a season as it gives you confidence you can still place gear
Post edited at 07:56
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing fit club. Right about rest - a lot on at work at the moment so feels like a bit of a balancing act. An end in sight though so hopefully feeling stronger soon.
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done) probably next winter now
Next few weeks training: Endurance nailed for when I can get on some routes
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 45min fell run
T: pm: Endurance rep's at wall - good session.
W: 30min road run
T: Rest. Away with work.
F: pm: 1hr. 6 x reps on fingury endurance 7a traverse. managed to do this without getting off at all.
S: Rest
S: 1hr. am: Felt too tired for enduarnce session so worked moves on purple traverse R - L, 7a+/b? pm: two gentle loops of the blue at Whinlatter with groups.
Weight this morning 12stone, gone up.
Thanks for doing fit club. Right about rest - a lot on at work at the moment so feels like a bit of a balancing act. An end in sight though so hopefully feeling stronger soon.
Aims:
VI 7 this winter if in right place at right time - NEARLY (VI 6 done) probably next winter now
Next few weeks training: Endurance nailed for when I can get on some routes
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 45min fell run
T: pm: Endurance rep's at wall - good session.
W: 30min road run
T: Rest. Away with work.
F: pm: 1hr. 6 x reps on fingury endurance 7a traverse. managed to do this without getting off at all.
S: Rest
S: 1hr. am: Felt too tired for enduarnce session so worked moves on purple traverse R - L, 7a+/b? pm: two gentle loops of the blue at Whinlatter with groups.
Weight this morning 12stone, gone up.
In reply to Joughton:
Elbows are fine. Only times I've ever had issue with them is two trips to font when I went from climbing once a week to all day every day for a week. This happened on two occasions.
I only really get about 2 hours in a session so it's not as if I'm spending all day on them.
Elbows are fine. Only times I've ever had issue with them is two trips to font when I went from climbing once a week to all day every day for a week. This happened on two occasions.
I only really get about 2 hours in a session so it's not as if I'm spending all day on them.
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan. I would be interested in your beta if you don't mind e-mailing it, I have been having trouble with it this year. Finally got a sequence figured out but would be interested if I am missing something.
re. hold loss, I know for sure that the crystal crimp (the first, lower and better hold on the bulge, that you do the first big move to to start the crux) is now gone. I don't think it makes that move THAT much harder but you can no longer stand on it, making the moves to get established on the flowstone harder as far as I can tell.
Hi Dan. I would be interested in your beta if you don't mind e-mailing it, I have been having trouble with it this year. Finally got a sequence figured out but would be interested if I am missing something.
re. hold loss, I know for sure that the crystal crimp (the first, lower and better hold on the bulge, that you do the first big move to to start the crux) is now gone. I don't think it makes that move THAT much harder but you can no longer stand on it, making the moves to get established on the flowstone harder as far as I can tell.
In reply to Si dH:
Sounds like it isn't out of the question, but would need to be towards the end of my week away. I'm at Hathersage Thurs 10th - Thurs 18th so if the rain stops soon it could give a week for it to dry although seems a touch tight! Beta would be good, esp whether the route would be possible or a really bad choice for us - I'm 5'6", -ve ape index and annoyingly static climbing style although I've got pretty strong fingers & good footwork.
I'd also be fishing for local knowledge generally. We're planning on Burbage South on Friday as we've never done grit bouldering before and this seems to be down as 'friendly' with a good selection of lower grades to go at. Don't have any bouldering location plans beyond that though. Would also like some nice E2 suggestions. I've done v little proper crack climbing but Millstone looked to have some great routes. I'd rather have well protected than scare-fests as dying isn't on my agenda (family hasn't yet forgiven me for doing Massambala!)
Thanks, Helen ~~~( 8:>
Sounds like it isn't out of the question, but would need to be towards the end of my week away. I'm at Hathersage Thurs 10th - Thurs 18th so if the rain stops soon it could give a week for it to dry although seems a touch tight! Beta would be good, esp whether the route would be possible or a really bad choice for us - I'm 5'6", -ve ape index and annoyingly static climbing style although I've got pretty strong fingers & good footwork.
I'd also be fishing for local knowledge generally. We're planning on Burbage South on Friday as we've never done grit bouldering before and this seems to be down as 'friendly' with a good selection of lower grades to go at. Don't have any bouldering location plans beyond that though. Would also like some nice E2 suggestions. I've done v little proper crack climbing but Millstone looked to have some great routes. I'd rather have well protected than scare-fests as dying isn't on my agenda (family hasn't yet forgiven me for doing Massambala!)
Thanks, Helen ~~~( 8:>
In reply to mattrm:
Humperdink - 65 miles is a decent volume week, esp as you missed days.
Thanks for doing this weeks fit club, had a good week:
Thanks for doing this weeks.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs (fail). Represent county at the Inter-counties XC (fail).
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays (tick). Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
M: lunchtime - 5M easy in 38:05, pm - 9M steady in 60:35
Tu: lunchtime - 5M easy in 36:28, pm Session - 6x2min (1min recovery), 6x1min (1min rec), 6x1/2min (30secs rec) 9M total. Felt tired
W: pm - off-raod run with a couple of teammates, 10/11M in 70:13
Th: Rest + massage (which was not too bad)
F: 5M "easy" in 31:28 + strides. Felt awful but in hindsight I was probably running too quick.
Sa: National 12 Stage Road Relays - Sutton Park. Similar format to a couple of weeks ago (6 team members run a long leg, 6 run a short leg alternating between long and short). The course was shortened this year as part of the usual course was to poor to run on. After a lot of chopping and changing I was given the "honour" of running on leg 1. Great opportunity as you are in a proper race but its usually "stacked" with good runners so a bit scary also. The course is far from flat with the first mile nearly all uphill and as a consequence many go off to quick. This played nicely into my hands as I paced it well to come from around 30th after 2K through into 18th by the finish with a time of 25:43 for the 8.1K (~5:05 miling) and only just a minute off 1st. I was unsure of my form before the race but happy with that. I knew I was going well when I went past the team manager with about 800m left and he got very very excited! The team managed to get up to 4th by leg 10 but sadly we finished in 7th although after almost 4hrs of running we were only separated from 4th by just over a minute. Olympian spotting continued with Hannah England and Laura Wightman + coach Steve Cram seen this time!
Su: Tired but managed 2hrs pretty steady 16/17M
Total ~70M for the week. Really encouraged by my run and now need to find a 10K to do.
Humperdink - 65 miles is a decent volume week, esp as you missed days.
Thanks for doing this weeks fit club, had a good week:
Thanks for doing this weeks.
Goals: STG (Feb/Mar) - Finish in top 3 overall in XC league (tick). Beat last years position in the National XC Champs (fail). Represent county at the Inter-counties XC (fail).
MTG (April-Aug) - Make the A team for the 12-Stage road relays (tick). Improve my track PB's (sub-2 800, sub-4 1500, sub-15 5K)
LTG (end of 2014) - Sub-31 10K, Run a half
M: lunchtime - 5M easy in 38:05, pm - 9M steady in 60:35
Tu: lunchtime - 5M easy in 36:28, pm Session - 6x2min (1min recovery), 6x1min (1min rec), 6x1/2min (30secs rec) 9M total. Felt tired
W: pm - off-raod run with a couple of teammates, 10/11M in 70:13
Th: Rest + massage (which was not too bad)
F: 5M "easy" in 31:28 + strides. Felt awful but in hindsight I was probably running too quick.
Sa: National 12 Stage Road Relays - Sutton Park. Similar format to a couple of weeks ago (6 team members run a long leg, 6 run a short leg alternating between long and short). The course was shortened this year as part of the usual course was to poor to run on. After a lot of chopping and changing I was given the "honour" of running on leg 1. Great opportunity as you are in a proper race but its usually "stacked" with good runners so a bit scary also. The course is far from flat with the first mile nearly all uphill and as a consequence many go off to quick. This played nicely into my hands as I paced it well to come from around 30th after 2K through into 18th by the finish with a time of 25:43 for the 8.1K (~5:05 miling) and only just a minute off 1st. I was unsure of my form before the race but happy with that. I knew I was going well when I went past the team manager with about 800m left and he got very very excited! The team managed to get up to 4th by leg 10 but sadly we finished in 7th although after almost 4hrs of running we were only separated from 4th by just over a minute. Olympian spotting continued with Hannah England and Laura Wightman + coach Steve Cram seen this time!
Su: Tired but managed 2hrs pretty steady 16/17M
Total ~70M for the week. Really encouraged by my run and now need to find a 10K to do.
Mostly directed at AJM and Garrouli (still lurking?): any idea what Ban-y-Gor will be like this time of year? I fancy having a look at "Almost Me", but there's wet streaks in just about every photo I've seen of it... Maybe one for later in the year? Even if that's wet, presumably other things dry more quickly? I can take a couple of afternoons off this week, so trying to decide where to go
In reply to Nick Russell:
In my very limited experience, it seeps. If you can wait a few weeks, I'd be up to join you. There was a 7b I spent some time staring at in the drizzle last Autumn that I really ought to try!
In my very limited experience, it seeps. If you can wait a few weeks, I'd be up to join you. There was a 7b I spent some time staring at in the drizzle last Autumn that I really ought to try!
In reply to hms:
Yeah, I thought it looks pretty seepy. Maybe I'll be better off at Cheddar (although I gather that Lion Rock can seep) or Brean for now. I'm sure I'll be going to Ban-y-Gor frequently once it's in condition, so I'll let you know. What was the 7b you were trying?
Yeah, I thought it looks pretty seepy. Maybe I'll be better off at Cheddar (although I gather that Lion Rock can seep) or Brean for now. I'm sure I'll be going to Ban-y-Gor frequently once it's in condition, so I'll let you know. What was the 7b you were trying?
In reply to Nick Russell:
Didn't have a chance to even try it. Everything was a damp & horrid, but I thought it was a bit pathetic not to even give it a go. As we unpacked, the rain started in earnest and bailing quickly became the only option, without me even having tied on! I think it was Just Too Hot - the guidebook description mentions something about being easier if you've got small fingers which I thought I should qualify for. I haven't tried any of the harder routes at ByG so would be up for pretty much anything going though.
Didn't have a chance to even try it. Everything was a damp & horrid, but I thought it was a bit pathetic not to even give it a go. As we unpacked, the rain started in earnest and bailing quickly became the only option, without me even having tied on! I think it was Just Too Hot - the guidebook description mentions something about being easier if you've got small fingers which I thought I should qualify for. I haven't tried any of the harder routes at ByG so would be up for pretty much anything going though.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Still lurking! Almost me can seep on the bottom holds, but should be dryish by the weekend if the forecasts anything to go by. It has streaks of black on the rock, so sometimes looks wet but isn't. Its by far the best route at Ban-y-Gor!
When were you thinking of heading to Cheddar this week? I was going to head down Wednesday afternoon, maybe to try Draggin Along if it's dry.
Still lurking! Almost me can seep on the bottom holds, but should be dryish by the weekend if the forecasts anything to go by. It has streaks of black on the rock, so sometimes looks wet but isn't. Its by far the best route at Ban-y-Gor!
When were you thinking of heading to Cheddar this week? I was going to head down Wednesday afternoon, maybe to try Draggin Along if it's dry.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers for the favourable write-up, but AJM doing his first 8a is much bigger news than my route. Sounds like there are a few other UKCFCers getting close to the magic grade too? Could be a bumper year!?!
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter
- Still a “fat b*stard” - 75.4kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Fix shoulder ASAP! – Physio tonight
- Taper
The week just gone:
M - Rest – 10mile after work road ride
T - Get in! First after work outdoor session of the year. 6 routes upto 7b, mostly OS, mostly 2nd ascents. Details in new NWL guidebook
W - Rest – sore shoulder
T - Shoulder still sore, but able to pull on fingerboard; max hangs with 20kg extra, lots of core and a 20mile bike ride to try and rid myself of some lard.
F - Rest; sore abs!
S - Damp cave warm-up, then some Mayfair wall routes upto 7b retroflash. Tried Masterclass – it’s nails for 8a! Managed LWH after and shoulder didn’t complain too much. Still sore/weak though!
S - Damp lap of ‘degla. Bike gears knackered so couldn’t generate any torque and had to spin up everything. Still faster than everyone else out despite this impediment!
Cheers for the favourable write-up, but AJM doing his first 8a is much bigger news than my route. Sounds like there are a few other UKCFCers getting close to the magic grade too? Could be a bumper year!?!
MTG (Spring 2014):
8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye, at Oliana
Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF by Easter
- Still a “fat b*stard” - 75.4kg and 6.7% BF this morning
STG (The coming week)
- Fix shoulder ASAP! – Physio tonight
- Taper
The week just gone:
M - Rest – 10mile after work road ride
T - Get in! First after work outdoor session of the year. 6 routes upto 7b, mostly OS, mostly 2nd ascents. Details in new NWL guidebook
W - Rest – sore shoulder
T - Shoulder still sore, but able to pull on fingerboard; max hangs with 20kg extra, lots of core and a 20mile bike ride to try and rid myself of some lard.
F - Rest; sore abs!
S - Damp cave warm-up, then some Mayfair wall routes upto 7b retroflash. Tried Masterclass – it’s nails for 8a! Managed LWH after and shoulder didn’t complain too much. Still sore/weak though!
S - Damp lap of ‘degla. Bike gears knackered so couldn’t generate any torque and had to spin up everything. Still faster than everyone else out despite this impediment!
In reply to Garrouli:
Thanks for the conditions advice. Alex and I are planning to go to Cheddar on Wednesday afternoon too. Do you have a partner lined up? Not sure what we're going to try, but if you're going to be at Ginsberg that could be a good start.
> When were you thinking of heading to Cheddar this week? I was going to head down Wednesday afternoon, maybe to try Draggin Along if it's dry.
Thanks for the conditions advice. Alex and I are planning to go to Cheddar on Wednesday afternoon too. Do you have a partner lined up? Not sure what we're going to try, but if you're going to be at Ginsberg that could be a good start.
In reply to Nick Russell:
No idea on seepage but Almost me is very good fun. Some of the guides suggest its "almost 7c+" - they are wrong. It was the fastest I'd ever done a 7c before this trip. Big moves on jugs then some smaller holds. I skipped a clip and found rolling over with the left easier to get the hold on the lip (you'll understand when you get there). Would suit an indoor wall climber I reckon. Dropknees help.
The note about the rope running in the logbook description is mine.
Garry - I don't know how wet it's been but Draggin stays dry in light rain and I don't think its a seepy one. As I said to Nick I've got some beta hidden in the depths of my brain somewhere if you want it.
No idea on seepage but Almost me is very good fun. Some of the guides suggest its "almost 7c+" - they are wrong. It was the fastest I'd ever done a 7c before this trip. Big moves on jugs then some smaller holds. I skipped a clip and found rolling over with the left easier to get the hold on the lip (you'll understand when you get there). Would suit an indoor wall climber I reckon. Dropknees help.
The note about the rope running in the logbook description is mine.
Garry - I don't know how wet it's been but Draggin stays dry in light rain and I don't think its a seepy one. As I said to Nick I've got some beta hidden in the depths of my brain somewhere if you want it.
In reply to Quiddity:
No problem, I've got a video of me redpointing the route, i will check that tonight to refresh my memory then send you some beta, plus I can upload the video to youtube if you want to see it as well?
No problem, I've got a video of me redpointing the route, i will check that tonight to refresh my memory then send you some beta, plus I can upload the video to youtube if you want to see it as well?
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm. Another busy week.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6c
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (June) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9
This week:
M- rest day
T- boulder at Indy on the comp problems I didn't complete. Flashed a V5/6 I didn't try at the comp
W nothing
T- fingerboard session
F- drove home from uni. Fingerboard session in the evening.
S- Drove up to Scotland
S- climbed at the ice factor not much of note onsighted a tough 6a+ And boulders a couple of V4s
I'm in Scotland until Friday. Will hopefully climb once more as well as numerous walks. Then on Saturday I will be off to kalymnos for 2 weeks. So I'm really hoping I'm in good shape!
Thanks mattrm. Another busy week.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6c
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (June) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9
This week:
M- rest day
T- boulder at Indy on the comp problems I didn't complete. Flashed a V5/6 I didn't try at the comp
W nothing
T- fingerboard session
F- drove home from uni. Fingerboard session in the evening.
S- Drove up to Scotland
S- climbed at the ice factor not much of note onsighted a tough 6a+ And boulders a couple of V4s
I'm in Scotland until Friday. Will hopefully climb once more as well as numerous walks. Then on Saturday I will be off to kalymnos for 2 weeks. So I'm really hoping I'm in good shape!
In reply to AJM:
Which clip did you miss out? I remember one of the clips (the one before the move up to the lip) being a bit sketchy with the right foot on a smeary foot hold and a massive flag with the left.
Thanks for the beta offer. I'll have a play on Wednesday and let you know if i'm stumped by any of the moves.
Which clip did you miss out? I remember one of the clips (the one before the move up to the lip) being a bit sketchy with the right foot on a smeary foot hold and a massive flag with the left.
Thanks for the beta offer. I'll have a play on Wednesday and let you know if i'm stumped by any of the moves.
Post edited at 13:25
In reply to Nick Russell:
I think I have a partner sorted for Wednesday. May ask if i can tag along with you guys otherwise, if that's OK?!
I think I have a partner sorted for Wednesday. May ask if i can tag along with you guys otherwise, if that's OK?!
In reply to Garrouli:
Cool, yeah it'll be fine for you to join us. Not completely decided between Cheddar and Brean right now but we can make it Cheddar if you're stuck for a partner (got to make up my mind somehow!)
Cool, yeah it'll be fine for you to join us. Not completely decided between Cheddar and Brean right now but we can make it Cheddar if you're stuck for a partner (got to make up my mind somehow!)
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks a lot for the recce offer matt. When a modicum of organisation for the trip enters my household, I'll see what we can do - it would good to meet you.
This week, I took your advice to heart and did very little. Not out of any idea of being sensible, mind, I just didn't rise to it in the week, which was not a happy one at work.
M - 5.6 miles. Meant to go further, but cut it short.
T-F - nothing
S - 7.6 miles
S - 6.4 miles This felt really hilly. Disgusted at how little ascent the watch gave me, although I often get loads of ascent for free when I do coastal routes, so I shouldn't complain. Later, another 5 miles, helping my wife to get out.
Heel feels OK. Already made a good start on this week.
Iain - that 10 miles time is amazing, as is the steadiness of your pace. How do you keep it that constant?
Thanks a lot for the recce offer matt. When a modicum of organisation for the trip enters my household, I'll see what we can do - it would good to meet you.
This week, I took your advice to heart and did very little. Not out of any idea of being sensible, mind, I just didn't rise to it in the week, which was not a happy one at work.
M - 5.6 miles. Meant to go further, but cut it short.
T-F - nothing
S - 7.6 miles
S - 6.4 miles This felt really hilly. Disgusted at how little ascent the watch gave me, although I often get loads of ascent for free when I do coastal routes, so I shouldn't complain. Later, another 5 miles, helping my wife to get out.
Heel feels OK. Already made a good start on this week.
Iain - that 10 miles time is amazing, as is the steadiness of your pace. How do you keep it that constant?
Post edited at 19:16
In reply to hms:
Beef it crux is quite reachy, I think you'd struggle with that reach. Mind of a turbot or hungry eyes would be better choices. You can look at the crux of beef it from half way up hungry eyes anyway, it's almost the first move where they separate. An alternative if two tier is dry is to wade the river and do blockhead. Really good and might suit you more although it's high in the grade. It's usual to clip bolt 2 from the ground on blockhead.
Burbage south boulders are good for low grade and stuff and face all directions, a bit like some of cratcliffe. They're not much cop above v3ish though. Have burbage north in your back pocket, good problems at banana finger area or remergence area if its cold. If its hot then go to burbage south edge.
E2 wise, at millstone there are loads, regent st is the most classic but erb, knightsbridge, piccadilly circus and more are all good and the cruxes are more conventional holds. Knightsbridge might be the best - classic e2, superb route and sounds like it would suit you. Get your partner to lead the first pitch to the ledge or avoid it - it's more of an awkward/reachy/powerful grit crack and not much good, albeit probably e1ish in it's own right.
Usually it's fairly obvious from the grade (5b) and a look from below if a grit e2 is going to be bold.
On natural grit, id recommend stanage - if you haven't been you really must. Pick any of the 3* e2s, they are all superb. You can see from the ground generally what the difficulties are going to be. Cratcliffe is also brilliant at e2 but not for a first grit foray for a short climber, they are all HARD WORK.
Have fun!
Oh and go to high tor if you get chance, it is the uk's best trad limestone crag by a mile. Do delicatessen and darius (one pitch).
Beef it crux is quite reachy, I think you'd struggle with that reach. Mind of a turbot or hungry eyes would be better choices. You can look at the crux of beef it from half way up hungry eyes anyway, it's almost the first move where they separate. An alternative if two tier is dry is to wade the river and do blockhead. Really good and might suit you more although it's high in the grade. It's usual to clip bolt 2 from the ground on blockhead.
Burbage south boulders are good for low grade and stuff and face all directions, a bit like some of cratcliffe. They're not much cop above v3ish though. Have burbage north in your back pocket, good problems at banana finger area or remergence area if its cold. If its hot then go to burbage south edge.
E2 wise, at millstone there are loads, regent st is the most classic but erb, knightsbridge, piccadilly circus and more are all good and the cruxes are more conventional holds. Knightsbridge might be the best - classic e2, superb route and sounds like it would suit you. Get your partner to lead the first pitch to the ledge or avoid it - it's more of an awkward/reachy/powerful grit crack and not much good, albeit probably e1ish in it's own right.
Usually it's fairly obvious from the grade (5b) and a look from below if a grit e2 is going to be bold.
On natural grit, id recommend stanage - if you haven't been you really must. Pick any of the 3* e2s, they are all superb. You can see from the ground generally what the difficulties are going to be. Cratcliffe is also brilliant at e2 but not for a first grit foray for a short climber, they are all HARD WORK.
Have fun!
Oh and go to high tor if you get chance, it is the uk's best trad limestone crag by a mile. Do delicatessen and darius (one pitch).
Post edited at 19:22
In reply to Si dH:
That's absolutely brilliant info Si - huge thanks. Now I need to go an have another riffle through the guide books to look up all the routes!
One small additional query - what are the belays like at the top of Millstone? I suspect I might have the rest of the family wanting to second stuff and I'd rather not be bringing everyone else up if I'm belaying off a dodgy nut and a molehill!
That's absolutely brilliant info Si - huge thanks. Now I need to go an have another riffle through the guide books to look up all the routes!
One small additional query - what are the belays like at the top of Millstone? I suspect I might have the rest of the family wanting to second stuff and I'd rather not be bringing everyone else up if I'm belaying off a dodgy nut and a molehill!
In reply to hms:
There are tree belays at the top of the Embankment routes for a start, can't remember where Jordon belayed at the top of The Mall for the life of me tho.
There are tree belays at the top of the Embankment routes for a start, can't remember where Jordon belayed at the top of The Mall for the life of me tho.
Post edited at 22:59
In reply to grubes:
grubes - Thanks for the vid link. Was sort of surprised when the nut held. Annoyed I took the fall, as I know the route well, but still, like you say a confidence booster.
Dandan - Would like to see the vid as well.
Ally - I was more commenting on two 8as in a week for FCers. I reckon there's going to be lots more coming soon from others as well.
mbh - Yup, the wife and I are sorting out our may trip. Once I've got our dates I'll let you know.
grubes - Thanks for the vid link. Was sort of surprised when the nut held. Annoyed I took the fall, as I know the route well, but still, like you say a confidence booster.
Dandan - Would like to see the vid as well.
Ally - I was more commenting on two 8as in a week for FCers. I reckon there's going to be lots more coming soon from others as well.
mbh - Yup, the wife and I are sorting out our may trip. Once I've got our dates I'll let you know.
In reply to hms:
Some have nuts at the top but for most you use the fence posts - make sure you have plenty of rope!
The only bad one i can think of is in keyhole cave - if you do piccadilly circus, do it in 1 pitch to avoid it.
Some have nuts at the top but for most you use the fence posts - make sure you have plenty of rope!
The only bad one i can think of is in keyhole cave - if you do piccadilly circus, do it in 1 pitch to avoid it.
In reply to mattrm:
*SPOILER*
Here is the link to the Under Duress video for anyone that thinks it might help:
youtube.com/watch?v=_V3HOsADu2k&
Apologies for the quality, this is why I never posted it up before, but it works for beta gathering.
Obviously the lower section is not so much use any more as one of the crimps I used is no longer there, but Quiddity seemed to find my top section sequence useful and very different to his.
*SPOILER*
Here is the link to the Under Duress video for anyone that thinks it might help:
youtube.com/watch?v=_V3HOsADu2k&
Apologies for the quality, this is why I never posted it up before, but it works for beta gathering.
Obviously the lower section is not so much use any more as one of the crimps I used is no longer there, but Quiddity seemed to find my top section sequence useful and very different to his.
In reply to Humperdink:
Wow great run.. I sat next to Hannah England at a GB event last year, she came across really well. It was a dinner for all GB athletes, junior to senior, so lots of 14-16 year olds and she spent a lot of time chatting to them and advising, especially as many were really shy being in a room with the likes of Gemili, so she really worked to keep them involved.
mbh: that's just inside my half pace so just decided to run a safe race. The first mile was slightly down hill hence the quicker first but otherwise, especially when in a group I felt OK. There's another 10 in a month which I really want to go for and risk a blow up. My pb was 57:12 so I thought sub 56 was possible. Last weeks skiing hurt me a bit, I'm not a good skiier so had shattered quads after 3 days then the long drive so wasnt feeling great.
Wow great run.. I sat next to Hannah England at a GB event last year, she came across really well. It was a dinner for all GB athletes, junior to senior, so lots of 14-16 year olds and she spent a lot of time chatting to them and advising, especially as many were really shy being in a room with the likes of Gemili, so she really worked to keep them involved.
mbh: that's just inside my half pace so just decided to run a safe race. The first mile was slightly down hill hence the quicker first but otherwise, especially when in a group I felt OK. There's another 10 in a month which I really want to go for and risk a blow up. My pb was 57:12 so I thought sub 56 was possible. Last weeks skiing hurt me a bit, I'm not a good skiier so had shattered quads after 3 days then the long drive so wasnt feeling great.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers matt.
Didn't smoke all last week and it felt OK, until beer intervened and resolve crumbled. No smoking this week though so far and i feel fine with it. I really wanted to give up this time and that makes a difference. I only started again in Sept/Oct last year ( after a 15+ yr gap ) so glad to be hopefully on the way to kicking it again.
On the downside i've totally buggered up my ring finger on my right hand. As well as the lesser tweaks on 2 fingers of my left hand i've taken a week off. I had a terrible session at the wall where i was scared to pull on anything hard. Backed off a 6c+, 7a and a 7a+ all of which i can do easily normally. Confidence was down and i was scared to climb above the bolts. So best thing to do was walk away. I've been doing finger exercises but it still doesn't feel much better. The sun is starting to shine and crags drying up but never mind.
Off out tomorrow, fingers crossed. Not sure where or if trad/sport yet. It'll be nice to get to a crag at least and see what happens when i get there.
On the plus side i've really cleaned my diet up and am doing cardio every day to blast the lard i've built up over the last few weeks. Feeling really good for it.
Cheers matt.
Didn't smoke all last week and it felt OK, until beer intervened and resolve crumbled. No smoking this week though so far and i feel fine with it. I really wanted to give up this time and that makes a difference. I only started again in Sept/Oct last year ( after a 15+ yr gap ) so glad to be hopefully on the way to kicking it again.
On the downside i've totally buggered up my ring finger on my right hand. As well as the lesser tweaks on 2 fingers of my left hand i've taken a week off. I had a terrible session at the wall where i was scared to pull on anything hard. Backed off a 6c+, 7a and a 7a+ all of which i can do easily normally. Confidence was down and i was scared to climb above the bolts. So best thing to do was walk away. I've been doing finger exercises but it still doesn't feel much better. The sun is starting to shine and crags drying up but never mind.
Off out tomorrow, fingers crossed. Not sure where or if trad/sport yet. It'll be nice to get to a crag at least and see what happens when i get there.
On the plus side i've really cleaned my diet up and am doing cardio every day to blast the lard i've built up over the last few weeks. Feeling really good for it.
In reply to biscuit:
All sounds good there mate. No beer for you this week, let's keep that resolve high!
I've done the stats for this week already. I'm going to be in Edinburgh at the weekend but have wifi so can post them up.
All sounds good there mate. No beer for you this week, let's keep that resolve high!
I've done the stats for this week already. I'm going to be in Edinburgh at the weekend but have wifi so can post them up.
In reply to mattrm:
So I'm pretty much free for 2 weeks starting Saturday. Weather looks awesome. I want to get out of my usual areas. If anyone wants to shepherd me around give me beta or a climbing partner. Give me a PM.
So I'm pretty much free for 2 weeks starting Saturday. Weather looks awesome. I want to get out of my usual areas. If anyone wants to shepherd me around give me beta or a climbing partner. Give me a PM.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing posts matt! MK is a good wall - nice bouldering (winter league) with arch and various angles. Changed relatively frequently. Routes are okay but not as interesting.
M – Rest
T – Boulder Brookes 20+ problems including new V3 + hangboard.
W – Reading mixed. A bit of everything up to 6b+ and some coaching.
T – Lead Brookes. 12-route pyramid. Really busy after re-set and grades not yet calibrated – very happy with a 6b+. Will be interesting to see how it settles. Hangboard.
F – TR Brookes as part of coaching. Lots of technique drills.
S – 4 problems V0-1 at Burbage South before it rained. Caro Ciavaldini/James Pearson and Wideboyz lectures at SHAFF. I know that’s not training but worth a mention!
S – Boulder Wirksworth 4x v0 9x v1 10x v2 5x v3
Thanks for doing posts matt! MK is a good wall - nice bouldering (winter league) with arch and various angles. Changed relatively frequently. Routes are okay but not as interesting.
M – Rest
T – Boulder Brookes 20+ problems including new V3 + hangboard.
W – Reading mixed. A bit of everything up to 6b+ and some coaching.
T – Lead Brookes. 12-route pyramid. Really busy after re-set and grades not yet calibrated – very happy with a 6b+. Will be interesting to see how it settles. Hangboard.
F – TR Brookes as part of coaching. Lots of technique drills.
S – 4 problems V0-1 at Burbage South before it rained. Caro Ciavaldini/James Pearson and Wideboyz lectures at SHAFF. I know that’s not training but worth a mention!
S – Boulder Wirksworth 4x v0 9x v1 10x v2 5x v3
In reply to mattrm: I'm late! core would be a good idea. Back on Easter Sunday, hopefully in time for some nice Spring weather, first sessions might be painful in many ways.
M:
T:
W:
T: Run 3.8 miles @ 8.53
F:
S:
S: Run 3.8 miles @ 8.53
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University (80 % completed!)
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
M:
T:
W:
T: Run 3.8 miles @ 8.53
F:
S:
S: Run 3.8 miles @ 8.53
STG: Not go stir crazy while on a 2 month visit to Penn State University (80 % completed!)
More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession, 7b+
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt!
Monday: Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups
4 x 8 Uneven Grip Pull Ups
2 x 10 Standing Upright Rows (15kg)
2 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises (15kg)
2 x 10 Dumbbell Rows (17.5kg)
2 x 10 Good Mornings (30kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 1Min Plank
Tuesday: Night Session at Pantymwyn Back on Firestarter, felt tired from the word go (yesterdays weights session?) Kept falling off the move to the spike, getting powered out after the hard start. Got sucked into trying different beta for that move by some people at the crag which tired me out further... I think i'll get it if I rest for it. Feel like I only have a handfull of good attempts per session on this.
Abs:
3 x 1 Min Front Plank
3 x 1 Min Side Plank (Left)
3 x 1 Min Side Plank (Right)
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Parisella's
Repeated Pillar Start Low as a warm up. Had attempts on RWT, Lip Service and Shothole start. Got some different beta for Shothole start but still feels nails. Hopefully get used to the cave one day...!
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Went up to Dinbren in the morning. Absolutely freezing, bailed and went to Ty Newedd, did "Black Wednesday" (7a+) 2nd go of the day. Felt a lot easier than when I was trying it last year.
Sunday: 15 min Aerocap Warmup
Deadhangs:
3 x 7 secs slopers
3 x 5 half crimp (30mm edge)
Aeropow - Feet on fingerboarding
Set 1 - 8 reps
Set 2 - 6 reps
Leveling off around 40secs (~35%)
Monday: Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups
4 x 8 Uneven Grip Pull Ups
2 x 10 Standing Upright Rows (15kg)
2 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises (15kg)
2 x 10 Dumbbell Rows (17.5kg)
2 x 10 Good Mornings (30kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 1Min Plank
Tuesday: Night Session at Pantymwyn Back on Firestarter, felt tired from the word go (yesterdays weights session?) Kept falling off the move to the spike, getting powered out after the hard start. Got sucked into trying different beta for that move by some people at the crag which tired me out further... I think i'll get it if I rest for it. Feel like I only have a handfull of good attempts per session on this.
Abs:
3 x 1 Min Front Plank
3 x 1 Min Side Plank (Left)
3 x 1 Min Side Plank (Right)
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Parisella's
Repeated Pillar Start Low as a warm up. Had attempts on RWT, Lip Service and Shothole start. Got some different beta for Shothole start but still feels nails. Hopefully get used to the cave one day...!
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Went up to Dinbren in the morning. Absolutely freezing, bailed and went to Ty Newedd, did "Black Wednesday" (7a+) 2nd go of the day. Felt a lot easier than when I was trying it last year.
Sunday: 15 min Aerocap Warmup
Deadhangs:
3 x 7 secs slopers
3 x 5 half crimp (30mm edge)
Aeropow - Feet on fingerboarding
Set 1 - 8 reps
Set 2 - 6 reps
Leveling off around 40secs (~35%)
In reply to JimmyKay:
Hi Jimmy, I'm short of a partner Sunday and keen to get out, want to go back to Cheedale embankment, or if that's wet then Raven Tor. Would you be up for a trip that way?
Si
Hi Jimmy, I'm short of a partner Sunday and keen to get out, want to go back to Cheedale embankment, or if that's wet then Raven Tor. Would you be up for a trip that way?
Si
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