/ Tom Randall on his new E9 - Pure Now

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alexjz - on 08 Apr 2014
johncoxmysteriously - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

Looks absolutely minging - conditions, that is, rather than the route.

Climbing looks nice though, barring the obvious downside.

jcm
Fraser on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

Very impressive but for me it could really have done with a second camera showing the long view during the upper section. That looked a very lonely bit of gear!
Offwidth - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Minging? Maybe a bit less breeze and its a perfect day for such a hard grit route.

Well done Tom. Looking forward to seeing some more hard crack ticks.
GuyVG - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to Fraser:

> it could really have done with a second camera showing the long view during the upper section.

I agree

neilwiltshire on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

I'm not really sure why he bothered with the rope at all!
Mick Ward - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

Eek! I thought (hoped), 'Just a couple of hard, scary moves and it'll all be over.' But then hard, scary move followed hard, scary move, followed hard, scary move.

It seemed so very, very far into the 'don't fluff it' zone. He made it look pretty effortless. Very impressive composure.

Yep, could be time to relax on a few cracks!

Mick
mfisher - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

Great effort! and he's chewing gum!!
TomPR - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to mfisher:

A few people have asked me about the chewing gum thing and if in fact it's tobacco! I'm afraid to say it's just the "boring stuff" and I like to do it to keep my mind at bay. It's kind of a calming thing I find.

mfisher - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to TomPR:

Well you looked pretty relaxed so fair play to you, its definitely working
r0x0r.wolfo - on 08 Apr 2014
Well played Tom, well played.

johncoxmysteriously - on 08 Apr 2014
In reply to neilwiltshire:

> I'm not really sure why he bothered with the rope at all!

Strange question. The gear protects at least the first 20 feet of the hard climbing, maybe a bit more. Why wouldn't you take a rope?

jcm
no_more_scotch_eggs - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

breathtaking stuff. amazing how solid, how measured he is on such hard climbing, makes the ridiculously difficult look easy.

what was the comment about 'appointment with death' not having hard enough climbing to go with the serious position- on that showing, is Tom a possible candidate to have a go at repeating some Dave MacLeod's routes- To hell and Back and Echo Wall would fit the bill?

cheers
gregor
In reply to TomPR:

Well done - looks terrifying!

Do you ever use a helmet Tom? Trying to think if I've seen a photo of you wearing one but can't think of one.
John2 - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to TomPR:

Someone's got to say it - what's with the mismatched shoes?
neilwiltshire on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Clearly I was being facetious.
floss_81 on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to TomPR:

What's with the two different shoes? Trade secret?
dudders - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

nutter
TomPR - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Gregor, maybe... maybe. Kind of feel like I want a break for the bold for a little while now!

Toby, yes I do wear them sometimes but I find a lot of the bold wall climbs mean you need to get your head really close to the wall or I find myself catching the lip of the helmet. I do however almost always wear a helmet on trad limestone.

John2: I use the white on the right as it's an edging boot and the pink on the left as it's a smearing boot. The route is great as you almost exclusively smear with the left and edge with the right! Happy days :-)

And yes I do often wear different boots. I did for Captain Invincible recently too. Pete did the same for Cobra Crack.
In reply to TomPR:

Thanks Tom, interesting to hear peoples thoughts on that. I suppose its always a balance between adding things in your favour should you fall and doing everything to avoid falling in the first place.

The different shoe thing - I think I first saw a pic of Yuji Hirayama doing that on (maybe?) Sphinx Crack, back in the 90s. A ninja on one foot, and something more rigid on the other. I remember thinking it looked exceedingly cool. :)
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johncoxmysteriously - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

> Well done - looks terrifying!

> Do you ever use a helmet Tom? Trying to think if I've seen a photo of you wearing one but can't think of one.

Tut - there's a man who hasn't bought Peak Rock yet (or even read my review, worse still).

jcm
ericinbristol - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

where's your review?
johncoxmysteriously - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to ericinbristol:

On this site, linked from my profile.

jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Tut - there's a man who hasn't bought Peak Rock yet (or even read my review

Read your review don't remember a pic of Tom though, sorry. Unlikely to be buying it I'm afraid, not really my area.
ericinbristol - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Ta (and yes, it's an utterly magnificent book)
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Ok - it is a great photo!
Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I don't recall ever seeing a video of quite such a cool and neat ascent of such a serious route. Love the way he wipes his brow as he's nearing the top. And the understatement of: 'I suppose it teaches you a little bit more about yourself.'
Coel Hellier - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to TomPR:

> I use the white on the right as it's an edging boot and the pink on the left as it's a smearing boot.

What are you going to do when the supply of Whites dries up? What will be the definitive slate shoe then?
no_more_scotch_eggs - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to TomPR:

Wow- it would be great to see some of dave mac's bold routes seeing some interest

Best wishes with those if you do take a look at them,

Cheers
Gregor
Mr Fuller on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
Or if not the bolder ones, how about Rhapsody? Tom could compare the difficulty to Cobra Crack...
Post edited at 15:28
John2 - on 09 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

'I remember thinking it looked exceedingly cool'

Total nonsense, Toby. It looks quite ridiculous. I'm relieved, but not surprised, to hear that there is a rational explanation.
In reply to John2:

But it was the explanation, which I guess must have been next to the photo in OTE, that made it so cool. I suspect I was likewise impressed when I first saw someone wearing tape gloves - that does give you than pugilist image after all! http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=51055
John2 - on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to TobyA:

Well anyway, let's hope that Tom's video doesn't result in a rash of punters attacking V Diffs clad in mismatched shoes.
TomPR - on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to John2:

Exactly.... it could even worse if people started following Steve Mac with his undone laces. Heavens forbid! :-)
Offwidth - on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to John2:

Some punters have been doing that for years. Different sizes or shoes or one modified shoe and different motivations (bunions etc).
paul mitchell - on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to alexjz:

Amazing mind control.Maybe call the route Cucumber....?

Dawes and I worked the route between Edge Lane and Green Death.Maybe somebody would like to do that without side gear?

Mitch

mark s - on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to TomPR:

nice one pal,nothing like the feeling of been in total control.
Lusk - on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

> Some punters have been doing that for years. Different sizes or shoes or one modified shoe and different motivations (bunions etc).

I bought a pair of rock shoes once, could never get used to them, so I put them away.
Years later, I found them and had a good look at them, they were two halves of different sizes! (Slaps forehead!) :-)
Postmanpat on 10 Apr 2014
In reply to John2:
> Someone's got to say it - what's with the mismatched shoes?

My first pair of shoes (EBs) bought at the YHA shop in 1972 were mismatched although I didn't realise until I got them home. Might explain why they only cost about 2.

I think he is probably following my example :-)
Post edited at 22:08

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