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Guidebook and general beta for Cornwall?

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 maria85 10 Apr 2014
Got the week after Easter off so a total of 10 days to go play. We were planning on heading to Scotland but the forecast so far isn't looking too great - of course this will probably change but want to plan an option as far in the other direction as possible too.

I've never even been to Cornwall, never mind climbed there. From a quick google, Bosigran looks amazing. Anywhere else we should be checking out for VS-E1 range?

What's the best guidebook to go for?

And best places to stay/town to base ourselves? Will be camping or sleeping in the car.

Cheers

 Reach>Talent 10 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:
Bosigran is great but can be a bit busy. Chair ladder has some really good routes as does Sennen. If you haven't climbed there then maybe squeeze in a trip to the Dewerstone on the way down and one of the Tors on the way back.

General tips:
- The huge sea monster that lives at Sennen has a tendency to sneak onto the ledge and eat peoples bags.
- Crystals in cracks can make a solid looking nut placement a bit less solid.
- The Dewerstone squirrel is actually the Earthly incarnation of the Devil.
- I think everything at Sennen feels hard although lots of people tell me I'm wrong about this.
- Rope drag across granite edges is a pain.
- Dartmoor crack climbs hurt a lot, but the cool glittery crystals that end up embedded in your hands are pretty

The Climbers Club guide to West Cornwall is definitely worth picking up. Trevedra Farm Caravan and Camping Site is worth looking at for the climbing in west Cornwall.
Post edited at 16:38
 GrahamD 10 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

If you have 10 days to play with in west Cornwall, get the proper West Cornwall CC guide which gives you everything there is down there.

At VS - E1 the list is as long as your arm ! any starred (especially 3*) will be great.

One thing to watch is a) some cliffs are tidal (Bosigran isn't) so plan routes accordingly. Another thing, if the wind is strong from the S, pick something on the North of the peninsula and vice versa.

Remember that you are in a really popular holiday destination at a popular time of year - not sure what the scope for staying in the car is for prolonged periods.

We always base ourselves at Sennen but that's because we are lazy and like the static caravans.
 Sean Kelly 10 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:
Parking at Sennen a bit of a pain, but gain access by abseil down to the R (facing out) of the coastguard station, but otherwise the climbing in Cornwall is great. Don't miss Right Angle at Gunnards Head, not effected by tides but very atmospheric in a big sea(see guidebook photo). Chair Ladder is a stunning place to climb with mainly middle grade routes. Pick a calm day and not high tide, but it really gets all the afternoon sun that's going. Trewavas cliff is a good bad weather alternative and also not effected by the tide like Bosigran. Another place worth stopping off at is Baggy Point but may be partially effected by the bird ban at this time. So many places to explore. Have a great trip!
Post edited at 17:31
OP maria85 11 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

Great, thanks guys! Looks like the CC guide is the way to go... cheaper than Rockfax anyway
In reply to maria85:

Chudleigh and Dewerstone can be squeezed into the way down to tick classic 3*routes. Sennen, Bosigran, Chairladder, Gurnards Head (?spelling) have plenty of classics to satisfy all grades. Plenty of nice camping around Zennor. Call in at Wintours Leap and Peak District on way back. Nice trip with variety aplenty. Nik
 GrahamD 11 Apr 2014
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

For anyone climbing HVS, Kenijack is also a must.
 Ffion Blethyn 11 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

In Cornwall put the jam on first then the cream.

 bpmclimb 12 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

Chair Ladder is great at those grades, especially meaty VS (South Face Direct, Diocese). Also brilliant is Bishop's Rib (E1). If you want a nice, smaller, non-tidal crag, maybe for a half day, check out Trewavas.

You're likely to get no end of hassle sleeping in the car. Trevedra campsite is very good, and not usually as crowded as Treen.
 Merlin 12 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:
If you like the idea of feeling like your on a terrifying loose big wall (but in Cornwall) Cheesewring Quarry is worth popping into on your way through. Route quality in places is exceptional, gear is good but sparse. All in all; memerable climbing!
Post edited at 11:37
 Tom Last 12 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

In ten days you could get a lot of climbing done in Cornwall since the crags are largely easy access.

The Rockfax guide is okay, but the coverage of the relatively minor crags (places like St Loy) which are still actually rather major crags, is woefully inadequate, so best to get the CC guide.

In West Penwith, Bosigran and Chair Ladder are the major crags. Sennen is very popular, but not a patch on the other two - the main atteaction for most sub E1 leaders being the massively overated Demo Route.

Carn Barra is an exceptionally brilliant crag and good at your grades. Carn Barra is a quiet place because there's a bit of a walk in. Similarly great and quiet crags in Penwith are St Loy (absolutely brilliant place) Tater Du, Porthguarnon, Cribba Head, Pordenack, Carn Kenidjack, Land's End, Zennor and tons more. More adventurous spots would be Carn Gloose & The Great Zawn.

Outside West Penwith, Carn Gowla is very adventurous at all grades and then you have hundreds of routes further east on the culm.

I wouldn't bother with Cheesewring and Bodmin moor personally (I love them, but they're maybe of local appeal only). Dartmoor however is fantastic.

Good luck!
 kingholmesy 12 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

Personally I wouldn't bother with Chudleigh, Dewerstone or Cheesewring.
 kingholmesy 12 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

Also if you want to climb outside of West Penwith and are only going to buy one guidebook then I'd go for the Rockfax.
 Offwidth 13 Apr 2014
In reply to Tom Last:

Good info so why spoil it with negativity about Demo route. My tick list on Classic Rock style routes is pretty good and I think the route is especially deserving of 3 stars unlike some I could name from around the UK.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 Apr 2014
In reply to kingholmesy:

> Personally I wouldn't bother with Chudleigh, Dewerstone or Cheesewring.

I think the Dewerstone is a delightful spot for climbers operating up to E1, great rock, lovely setting, fine lines and quality climbing,


Chris
 mbh 13 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

I have camped at Treverven campsite many times and always liked it. It is spacious and peaceful. A very short walk from there to Porthguarnon and St Loye, not too far to Tater Du and Tregiffian, and all other West Penwith crags are driveable to in a short time.

 Owen W-G 13 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

Try camping behind first and last pub above sennen, they charged us £2 a night, v basic but they have a loo. Save 20ps for the showers in one of the posher sites eg the one just north of st just.

Sennen, bosi, chair ladder all for you, kendijack too, look up American dream and chlorophyll cluster for best single pitch granite e1s in area, astral stroll is ace too but v committing and you'll both have to e1 solid to avoid epic. Dewerstone, haytor, culm coast crags all good for stop offs. Sw rockfax covers all areas westwards from Bristol.

Enjoy, I'm jealous
 Tom Last 13 Apr 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Fair enough Didn't mean to be especially negative - although might have sounded that way - I have nothing especially against the route, from memory I thought it was pretty good. I just think it's overrated. I can certainly think of a number of superior Routes at similar grades in the area - totally subjective & just my opinion. I appreciate that many people think it's fantastic
OP maria85 13 Apr 2014
In reply to Owen W-G:

Thanks will search that pub out, basic is fine

Some great route suggestions, will get my hands on a guidebook this week and have a good planning session
 mbh 13 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:
If basic camping will do, then there is also a field with a loo at Morvah, just along from Bosigran, and the field behind the North Inn pub at Pendeen, just a bit further along, where we stayed one summer, having not got around to booking anywhere else. It was fine. Other places too, probably.

Don't forget Right Angle at Gurnard's Head. It's only HS, but the atmosphere and setting are terrific. The VS Martell Slab (from memory....) at Tater Du is also great, and Tater Du is a change in style from the other, classic venues, of which Chair Ladder (Gwennap Head on the map) is my favourite. Seal Slab, Diocese and South Face Direct are all super duper. In fact, if you park at Porthgwarra and head west, you have a fantastic choice, starting at Hella Point, then Chair Ladder, Fox Prom., Carn Barra. Can't go wrong.
Post edited at 20:29
 climbingpixie 13 Apr 2014
In reply to maria85:

Hello!

You'll have a fab time down there, hope the weather is good for you. We had a 11 day trip a couple of years ago and it was so good. We had a brief sojourn to the Culm (I'd recommend Lunakhod and The Smile @ Sharpnose) then headed south. We camped at a lovely site near St Just - good facilities and I don't remember it being too expensive. The local pasty shop is excellent and has a schedule of when fresh pasties are due out of the oven!

Climbing-wise my highlights were Chair Ladder (Excelsior, Bishop's Rib and South Face Direct were all great), Blackchurch (The Verger is amazing but quite scary) and Carn Gowla (Journey to Ixtlan is pretty out there for HVS).
 Offwidth 14 Apr 2014
In reply to Tom Last:

How about a list then for HS ?
 Tom Last 14 Apr 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Okay, all these are pretty good, some better than others. I'm conscious this list is actually outside of the remit of the OP though

Iron Bells - Porthguarnon East
Flannel Avenue - Chair Ladder
Doorpost - Bosigran
Right Angle - Gurnard's Head
Strangeways - Botallack Head Zawn.
Helluva Slab - Hella Point (severe, but it's ace)
Wrecker's Slab - Cornakey
Tingaloy & Cenapod Corner - St Loy
Demo Route - Sennen
Johnstone's Route - Land's End (sandbag severe)
Terrier's Tooth (Still HS after rockfall) - Chair Ladder
Pegasus - Chair Ladder
Box of Delights - Vicarage Cliff
Kernyck - Cribba Head
Autumn Flakes - Bosigran
Chair Ladder Girdle - Chair Ladder (I have actually done this stupidly enough. It's actually severe, but should probably get HS for the battles with seagulls alone!)


 mbh 16 Apr 2014
In reply to Tom Last:

Done 11 of those, 11 years ago at least. All lovely, especially, I think, Helluva Slab. Hella Point is a truly lovely spot.

Think we went once to look for Johnstone's route, but didn't do it for some reason. Probably couldn't find it.

Tingaloy? is that a short HS over to the right (looking in) of the main St Loye crag? Did one there, anyway.

Demo route memorable for the basking sharks that appeared at the time.

Autumn Flakes memorable for the guide book hint that someone had once died on it, and getting back to the car park to find my car had been broken into.

Chair Ladder is a wonderful place.
Flannel Avenue memorable for me going all over the place on the upper pitches.


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