UKC

Residual Cuillin snow as Easter approaches

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 Mike Lates 11 Apr 2014
Almost all of the crest is clear.
Snow still extensive at the north end of the Ridge with Coir' a' Bhasteir & Fionn Choire certainly requiring axes and only leave crampons behind at your peril- forecast is for fresh snow & cold in middle of next week.
SE Ridge (Tourist Rte) is possible without axes but a must on Pinnacle Ridge. Also expect to abseil off Knight's, 4th pinnacle, (Tat in place) for a while as the zigzag descent still has cover which is now not nice sugary consistency.
An Dorus approach I'm not 100% sure about being clear but over a week ago it was possible to dodge the initial steep snow by rocks on the northern side before far genler snow descent below. My guess is that it is now pretty much clear; anyone able to clarify?
The Great Stone Shoot is now possible without C&A but parties trying the southern 3 munros will find quite an extensive necklace of snow still below the Alasdair crags.
Collie's Ledge is reported as nearly clear. The back of Mhic Coinnich is holding a few patches that force you onto the crest itself but is possible. This same scene on Thearlaich is a wee bit harder and using harder the Coire lagan descent or abseiling is quite likley if travelling S-N.
Blabheinn is snow free apart from great Gully which you shouldn't be going into!
 BnB 11 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Thanks Mike. Coincidentally I had just dug out full winter kit for a visit to Pinnacle Ridge tomorrow. Coir' a' Bhasteir looking pretty full from the Slig. Do you think PR will go with just one axe, or is a second advisable?
OP Mike Lates 11 Apr 2014
In reply to BnB:

Probably fine with a single. Howling but dry tomoz so be grand if you can reach the foot of 1st. good luck, m

 BnB 11 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Usually not bad in any kind of souwesterly once in the coire so it seems the obvious objective... if, as you say, we can get that high
 BnB 12 Apr 2014
In reply to BnB:

Snow looking much diminished after Friday's rain but plenty of slippery slush on the footholds, especially the summit slopes beyond Knight's Peak. We climbed without crampons which made the climbing interesting but it would have been more solid with cramps. SE ridge was pretty bare. That descent doesn't get any softer on the feet.
ian stewart 13 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Thanks for the update Mike, I am over for a summer traverse attempt next week, maybe catch you on the hill!

Cheers
 Howard J 14 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Is there any snow on Rum? I'm going at Easter and had assumed that as it's lower down snow wouldn't be a problem but I've just seen a forecast of snow! Should I take axe and crampons?

 d_b 14 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

I was thinking of having a go at the loch Mullardoch circuit over Easter. Would I be right in thinking I can expect a fair bit of cover?
OP Mike Lates 15 Apr 2014
In reply to Howard J:

Nothing in view at all & I would be surprised if anything old there at al; it hardly had any all winter. Not sure cold enough for snow that would justify metal-work as the forecast stands but kep an eye open.
OP Mike Lates 15 Apr 2014
In reply to davidbeynon:

Not familiar with it but higher munros on mainland generally wise to take crampons & axe for quite a while yet.
OP Mike Lates 15 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

This can now be amended to just a definite need for crampons & axe on Coir' a' Bhasteir and wise for Pinnacle Ridge. Bruach na Frithe by the NW Ridge (grade 1) is crampon free but heading anywhere east toward Sgurr a Fionn Choire, Tooth etc will involve crossing reasonably large snow patches in Fionn Choire. Last few days it been possible to kick in reasonably well but clear night skies could firm them up. You wouldn't stop yourself by digging heels in though so serious consequences of a slip.
Alasdair necklace I did ok without axes yesterday, thearlaich still has couple patches on coruisk bypass and big party descended An Dorus with no particular difficulties.
 MartinJWood 25 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

What are the current conditions like? Is there likely to be much snow still around in a week or so's time?
OP Mike Lates 27 Apr 2014
In reply to MartinJWood:

Yes, still likely to want min of axe and probably crampons in Coir' a' Bhasteir; just possibly Fionn Choire at very head & crossing beneath Sgurr A Fionn Choire. Everything else now clear. Sunday 27th.
 MartinJWood 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Mike Lates:

Hi Mike - thanks for your reply. I was meaning on the normal ridge route. Planning a traverse on Sat or Sun and aiming to go light without C&A.

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