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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
Psyche video of the week - vimeo.com/90170272 - Suggestions welcome - thanks to Grubes for this week
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=583522
Curious Yellow - Well done on the V7.
Nick Russell - Kipping under the Cromlech Boulders? Sounds like a good laugh. Well done on the E3
mattrm - COME ON YOU USELESS ****. LOOSE SOME WEIGHT. CLIMB MORE FATTY.
JimmyKay - Looks like an ace week there. Grats on the V8
AndrewW - Hope you feel better. endurance session sounds good.
hms - about the rain. You didn't miss much at Trebanog, apart from me falling off stuff. Well done on the 7b.
Ali - Congrats on the V4. Always good to do an intervals session from time to time.
mrchewy - Stick to the plan!!! Hope the back is better soon. Can't remember if you do it, but yoga is good.
Alun - It's good when training goes well isn't it?
IainRUK - Only 70 miles he says... Hope you enjoyed the skiing. Well done on the PB.
Dandan82 - Hope the finger is better soon. Boulder wall sounds ace.
grubes - Keep up the miles for the bike ride. Hope you got 70 miles this week.
Exile - How did the endurance stuff go?
Humperdink - Well done on the race. Sounds good.
Ally Smith - It's good to get back outdoors isn't it? Hope the lard is going? Hard to explain to friends and family, why you're dieting when in their eyes you're thin already isn't it?
Tubb93 - Good effort on the V5/6 flash.
mbh - Well hopefully it's given your foot a good rest
Just Tintin - Lots of good sessions there.
Sankey - Nearly home now...
Luke Owens - Well done on the 7a+. Nice week there. Very detailed update, which I like.
Well done everyone. Keep up the good work, managed the injuries and lets get out and crush now the weather is improving.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.
Psyche video of the week - vimeo.com/90170272 - Suggestions welcome - thanks to Grubes for this week
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=583522
Curious Yellow - Well done on the V7.
Nick Russell - Kipping under the Cromlech Boulders? Sounds like a good laugh. Well done on the E3
mattrm - COME ON YOU USELESS ****. LOOSE SOME WEIGHT. CLIMB MORE FATTY.
JimmyKay - Looks like an ace week there. Grats on the V8
AndrewW - Hope you feel better. endurance session sounds good.
hms - about the rain. You didn't miss much at Trebanog, apart from me falling off stuff. Well done on the 7b.
Ali - Congrats on the V4. Always good to do an intervals session from time to time.
mrchewy - Stick to the plan!!! Hope the back is better soon. Can't remember if you do it, but yoga is good.
Alun - It's good when training goes well isn't it?
IainRUK - Only 70 miles he says... Hope you enjoyed the skiing. Well done on the PB.
Dandan82 - Hope the finger is better soon. Boulder wall sounds ace.
grubes - Keep up the miles for the bike ride. Hope you got 70 miles this week.
Exile - How did the endurance stuff go?
Humperdink - Well done on the race. Sounds good.
Ally Smith - It's good to get back outdoors isn't it? Hope the lard is going? Hard to explain to friends and family, why you're dieting when in their eyes you're thin already isn't it?
Tubb93 - Good effort on the V5/6 flash.
mbh - Well hopefully it's given your foot a good rest
Just Tintin - Lots of good sessions there.
Sankey - Nearly home now...
Luke Owens - Well done on the 7a+. Nice week there. Very detailed update, which I like.
Well done everyone. Keep up the good work, managed the injuries and lets get out and crush now the weather is improving.
In reply to mattrm:
Ta mattrm!
STG - prepare for trips to Targassone and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a
M -
T - Long commute to/from work on bike, 70km total. Felt great. Lunchtime bouldering. Felt great!
W -
T - Another long commute, 50km. Lunchtime bouldering, ticked loads of new problems, felt invincible!
F - More lunchtime bouldering. Felt equally invincible! Finished with left forearm a little sore though, so I might rest next week.
S -
S - 100km on bike with 1500m ascent. Average speed 26.2km/h. Felt invincible (again!).
I'm not sure why but it seems like everything I did this week felt as if I had taken steroids or something (I hadn't of course). Weight is down to under 69kg. I can only hope that I can keep the good feeling going for another couple of months and tick my mid-term goals when I get the opportunity.
Ta mattrm!
STG - prepare for trips to Targassone and Lleida
MTG - Etape Eryri in June (165km on road bike). Redpoint 7c
LTG - 8a
M -
T - Long commute to/from work on bike, 70km total. Felt great. Lunchtime bouldering. Felt great!
W -
T - Another long commute, 50km. Lunchtime bouldering, ticked loads of new problems, felt invincible!
F - More lunchtime bouldering. Felt equally invincible! Finished with left forearm a little sore though, so I might rest next week.
S -
S - 100km on bike with 1500m ascent. Average speed 26.2km/h. Felt invincible (again!).
I'm not sure why but it seems like everything I did this week felt as if I had taken steroids or something (I hadn't of course). Weight is down to under 69kg. I can only hope that I can keep the good feeling going for another couple of months and tick my mid-term goals when I get the opportunity.
In reply to mattrm:
I didn't get the (indoor) 7b yet, but I'm darn close! Mixd bag this week.
M cycle commute, routes at UCR, dozen in pairs inc 2 6c+ & 2 6c. Too busy to try projecting anything as too many other bodies too close by.
T cycle commute, Bloc, did umpteen more new blue (up to 6b) problems so felt quite happy.
W cycle commute, then packing for hols
T driving up to Hathersage
F Burbage South bouldering, very first stuff on grit. God, it's scary - you've got to, like, use smeary feet & push not just yard up with arm strength. Out of comfort zone!
S F'ing freezing. Tried a couple of easy things at Burbage North then scuttled back to the cottage with borderline hypothermia. Went out for a walk in the afternoon instead.
S CratCliff/Robin Hoods, taking care to keep on the sheltered side as still an icy blast. Getting on better. Even managed a V3 - my goal for the trip - after rather a lot of attempts, admittedly. ***UPDATE just found that UKC only has it down as a V2, not happy!!
Tomorrow the wind swigs round and drops a bit, so hope to go to Stanage apparent North as the grades available seem to cover the whole of my v mixed ability group. Don't know when I'll get to log the problems yet - might get some done later tonight. Skin sore but mainly holding up. All seems to be baptism of fire at the moment though!
I didn't get the (indoor) 7b yet, but I'm darn close! Mixd bag this week.
M cycle commute, routes at UCR, dozen in pairs inc 2 6c+ & 2 6c. Too busy to try projecting anything as too many other bodies too close by.
T cycle commute, Bloc, did umpteen more new blue (up to 6b) problems so felt quite happy.
W cycle commute, then packing for hols
T driving up to Hathersage
F Burbage South bouldering, very first stuff on grit. God, it's scary - you've got to, like, use smeary feet & push not just yard up with arm strength. Out of comfort zone!
S F'ing freezing. Tried a couple of easy things at Burbage North then scuttled back to the cottage with borderline hypothermia. Went out for a walk in the afternoon instead.
S CratCliff/Robin Hoods, taking care to keep on the sheltered side as still an icy blast. Getting on better. Even managed a V3 - my goal for the trip - after rather a lot of attempts, admittedly. ***UPDATE just found that UKC only has it down as a V2, not happy!!
Tomorrow the wind swigs round and drops a bit, so hope to go to Stanage apparent North as the grades available seem to cover the whole of my v mixed ability group. Don't know when I'll get to log the problems yet - might get some done later tonight. Skin sore but mainly holding up. All seems to be baptism of fire at the moment though!
Post edited at 18:03
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing this Matt.
M - 10.6 miles
T - 7.5 miles coast path
W - 9 miles coast path
T - 7.6 miles
F - 7.2 miles
S - 10.0 miles
S - 6.1 miles. A twinge I felt in a thigh muscle this morning means (so I rationalize) that I am not going out again today as I had planned and have opted instead at this point for red wine and YouTube, and work, through the fog of the other two.
So this makes
58.1 miles, 5548 ft (1690 m) ascent.
Didn't quite make the 60 miles target I wanted, nothing spectacularly fast and no really long runs, but I kept at it every day, and I pushed some of it hard. Lots of hills.
Thanks for doing this Matt.
M - 10.6 miles
T - 7.5 miles coast path
W - 9 miles coast path
T - 7.6 miles
F - 7.2 miles
S - 10.0 miles
S - 6.1 miles. A twinge I felt in a thigh muscle this morning means (so I rationalize) that I am not going out again today as I had planned and have opted instead at this point for red wine and YouTube, and work, through the fog of the other two.
So this makes
58.1 miles, 5548 ft (1690 m) ascent.
Didn't quite make the 60 miles target I wanted, nothing spectacularly fast and no really long runs, but I kept at it every day, and I pushed some of it hard. Lots of hills.
In reply to mattrm:
M- 140 pullups in 20; 525 core movements; 5 x 2min plank; 200 press-ups.
T- 100 pullups in 10; 250 core movements; 2 x 2min plank; 80 press-ups.
W- 120 pullups in 20; 375 core movements; 3 x 2min plank; 120 press-ups.
T- 140 pullups in 20; 250 core movements; 2 x 2min plank; 120 press-ups.
F- Rest
S- Wimberry. Did a few of the classics including Fish Arete before getting rained off.
S- The Fin Sitter at Gib Torr (flashed top did this 3rd go) quality problem. S&M at Newstones first go. Milky Buttons and Hard arete at 4th Cloud all went. Ended up being a really good circuit on a pleasant grit day. Just did 375 core movements; 3 x 2min plank; 120 press-ups.
Forgot to mention that I've book flights to El Chorro end of May. Might be a bit warm but I'm looking forward to seeing Gary and Mel at the Olive Branch and getting on to Triangulo at Desplo. It's always been wet in the past.
M- 140 pullups in 20; 525 core movements; 5 x 2min plank; 200 press-ups.
T- 100 pullups in 10; 250 core movements; 2 x 2min plank; 80 press-ups.
W- 120 pullups in 20; 375 core movements; 3 x 2min plank; 120 press-ups.
T- 140 pullups in 20; 250 core movements; 2 x 2min plank; 120 press-ups.
F- Rest
S- Wimberry. Did a few of the classics including Fish Arete before getting rained off.
S- The Fin Sitter at Gib Torr (flashed top did this 3rd go) quality problem. S&M at Newstones first go. Milky Buttons and Hard arete at 4th Cloud all went. Ended up being a really good circuit on a pleasant grit day. Just did 375 core movements; 3 x 2min plank; 120 press-ups.
Forgot to mention that I've book flights to El Chorro end of May. Might be a bit warm but I'm looking forward to seeing Gary and Mel at the Olive Branch and getting on to Triangulo at Desplo. It's always been wet in the past.
In reply to mattrm:
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 1lbs (1lbs gain)
M - 1h 20m indoor routes
T - 1h crossfit class
W - 20 mins fingerboarding
F - 60 leg raises, 53 sec bring sally up
S - Rest
S - Rest
Been in Edinburgh over the weekend. Ate badly, but hopefully not put loads on. Crossfit class was quite good, felt knackered the following day. Got some fingerboarding in as well. Went along to Witches Point to scope out the 7a there. Holds look nice but it's steep. My style so going to set about redpointing that. Oddly the 8a there has the biggest starting holds there. Great holds then a nice blank section, to some small but ok holds. After that it's steep with positive looking but small holds. They probably aren't positive.
STG - Climb 6b (or V4) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 1lbs (1lbs gain)
M - 1h 20m indoor routes
T - 1h crossfit class
W - 20 mins fingerboarding
F - 60 leg raises, 53 sec bring sally up
S - Rest
S - Rest
Been in Edinburgh over the weekend. Ate badly, but hopefully not put loads on. Crossfit class was quite good, felt knackered the following day. Got some fingerboarding in as well. Went along to Witches Point to scope out the 7a there. Holds look nice but it's steep. My style so going to set about redpointing that. Oddly the 8a there has the biggest starting holds there. Great holds then a nice blank section, to some small but ok holds. After that it's steep with positive looking but small holds. They probably aren't positive.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt - plan out of window due to work being full on. 12 days in a row now.
Mon - Rest as fingers tired.
Tue - Routes. Decided to lead all these sandbag slab routes I heard about... I actually walked out to the van, got some masking tape and wrote sandbag on it before proceeding to stick it on the grade chart for one of the 5s. So did a 5+ x2, 5, 5+ (really 6a), 5 (unbelievably 6a+) 2nd 6b, 5+ and then a 6a+ which I fell off a lot working out the crux. Oh, and something else. Wiped out.
Wed - Warmed up on V0/1 and then did the V2 under the roof clean, so buggered off home knackered.
Thu - Tired.
Fri - Helped a mate move and then beer.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Worked but still went and bashed out some V0/1/2 problems and did some two finger repeaters.
Happy with the V2 under the roof, first thing I've managed under there since I tore the medial ligament last year. Physio might moan if she sees me on it tho.
A hard 5b/soft 5c move (english tech) on a F5 slab? Really? The sort of move you don't find on slabs either. I'd heard so many people complain about this route and the lad who graded it just say "high feet" in reply. It's just a bit nonsensical. Pinnacle has a rep for tough grading but this was a bit stupid. The 5+ three lines over was about twice as easy, which makes it even more frustrating because if you can grade one right, why not the other?
And whilst I'm having a rant, why do indoor slab grades often increase by making the moves bigger and thinner? Slate might be a little like that sometimes but grit and limestone certainly aren't in general. Does my head in. Bigger rockover repeat... and on and on.
Other than that, the heads still not happy about falling but made progress this evening I feel.
Thanks Matt - plan out of window due to work being full on. 12 days in a row now.
Mon - Rest as fingers tired.
Tue - Routes. Decided to lead all these sandbag slab routes I heard about... I actually walked out to the van, got some masking tape and wrote sandbag on it before proceeding to stick it on the grade chart for one of the 5s. So did a 5+ x2, 5, 5+ (really 6a), 5 (unbelievably 6a+) 2nd 6b, 5+ and then a 6a+ which I fell off a lot working out the crux. Oh, and something else. Wiped out.
Wed - Warmed up on V0/1 and then did the V2 under the roof clean, so buggered off home knackered.
Thu - Tired.
Fri - Helped a mate move and then beer.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Worked but still went and bashed out some V0/1/2 problems and did some two finger repeaters.
Happy with the V2 under the roof, first thing I've managed under there since I tore the medial ligament last year. Physio might moan if she sees me on it tho.
A hard 5b/soft 5c move (english tech) on a F5 slab? Really? The sort of move you don't find on slabs either. I'd heard so many people complain about this route and the lad who graded it just say "high feet" in reply. It's just a bit nonsensical. Pinnacle has a rep for tough grading but this was a bit stupid. The 5+ three lines over was about twice as easy, which makes it even more frustrating because if you can grade one right, why not the other?
And whilst I'm having a rant, why do indoor slab grades often increase by making the moves bigger and thinner? Slate might be a little like that sometimes but grit and limestone certainly aren't in general. Does my head in. Bigger rockover repeat... and on and on.
Other than that, the heads still not happy about falling but made progress this evening I feel.
In reply to mattrm:
thanks Matt, decent week 101 miles.
m: 5.5 on roads. pm: similar 5.5 on roads, 8:30-9 pace for both legs sore
t: legs too tired for track so am: 6 miles road and trail pm: 7.5 miles road and trail ~ min miles.
w: 13.1 mile on roads 6:55 pace
t; am: 8.5 miles trail.pm: 5 miles with 3.6 mile effort at 5:50 pace
f: 21.3 mile road run through philly 6:40 pace
s: am: 9.5 mile trail run. pm: 6.1 mile road run with 3 x 0.8 mile reps at 5;40 pace
s: am: 8 miles slow on roads pm: 4.1 miles on road 7:30 pace
thanks Matt, decent week 101 miles.
m: 5.5 on roads. pm: similar 5.5 on roads, 8:30-9 pace for both legs sore
t: legs too tired for track so am: 6 miles road and trail pm: 7.5 miles road and trail ~ min miles.
w: 13.1 mile on roads 6:55 pace
t; am: 8.5 miles trail.pm: 5 miles with 3.6 mile effort at 5:50 pace
f: 21.3 mile road run through philly 6:40 pace
s: am: 9.5 mile trail run. pm: 6.1 mile road run with 3 x 0.8 mile reps at 5;40 pace
s: am: 8 miles slow on roads pm: 4.1 miles on road 7:30 pace
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt!
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Ended the siege on Firestarter. Went 2nd go of the evening. All the boosh crew were out, good psyche!
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Back at Dinbren with Ally, great to be back! 2 x 6b warm up, dogged up When Saturday Comes (7c), feel stronger on the crux than last year and worked out a shorties way of doing the crux consistently. Going to stick at it for my first 7c.
Also got reacquainted with some routes, Technicolour Yawn and Big Mouth Strikes Again. Would like to get Technicolour wired as it's a good training route.
Friday: Lunch Gym Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups
Deadhangs
3 x 10sec (Half crimp 30mm edge)
5 x 10sec (Half crimp first joint edge)
3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises
2 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Saturday: Voie Normale bloc at Craig Y Llyn.
Repeated Voie Normale Stand (6B+) and the arete (6B+). Felt stronger than before on the problems but couldn't figure out the beta for one move on the sit start to Voie Normale. Did all the moves on "Alice" (7A) but couldn't link it. Repeated Voie Normale Stand until I couldn't feel my arms...
Sunday: Rest
Cheers Matt!
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Ended the siege on Firestarter. Went 2nd go of the evening. All the boosh crew were out, good psyche!
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Back at Dinbren with Ally, great to be back! 2 x 6b warm up, dogged up When Saturday Comes (7c), feel stronger on the crux than last year and worked out a shorties way of doing the crux consistently. Going to stick at it for my first 7c.
Also got reacquainted with some routes, Technicolour Yawn and Big Mouth Strikes Again. Would like to get Technicolour wired as it's a good training route.
Friday: Lunch Gym Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups
Deadhangs
3 x 10sec (Half crimp 30mm edge)
5 x 10sec (Half crimp first joint edge)
3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises
2 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Saturday: Voie Normale bloc at Craig Y Llyn.
Repeated Voie Normale Stand (6B+) and the arete (6B+). Felt stronger than before on the problems but couldn't figure out the beta for one move on the sit start to Voie Normale. Did all the moves on "Alice" (7A) but couldn't link it. Repeated Voie Normale Stand until I couldn't feel my arms...
Sunday: Rest
Post edited at 08:31
In reply to mrchewy:
Slabs with French grades always seem like sandbags to me. I used to put it down to a personal weakness in that style, but too many other people seem to have the same complaint.
> A hard 5b/soft 5c move (english tech) on a F5 slab? Really?
Slabs with French grades always seem like sandbags to me. I used to put it down to a personal weakness in that style, but too many other people seem to have the same complaint.
In reply to hms:
Good work on the grit, it takes some getting used to for us limestone climbers! Did you find it wasn't as grippy as you expected on the first day? I went there around Christmas and for the first morning my mates were all talking about the excellent friction while I was sliding off everything... later on, my hands had been sanded down a bit, fingertips felt much rougher, and I started to experience some of the mythical gritstone stickiness. Be careful with the skin though, it will get thin really quickly!
Good work on the grit, it takes some getting used to for us limestone climbers! Did you find it wasn't as grippy as you expected on the first day? I went there around Christmas and for the first morning my mates were all talking about the excellent friction while I was sliding off everything... later on, my hands had been sanded down a bit, fingertips felt much rougher, and I started to experience some of the mythical gritstone stickiness. Be careful with the skin though, it will get thin really quickly!
In reply to mattrm:
Yeah, good fun (if not the best night's sleep I've ever had)! Feels good to settle the score with The Swan too.
M - Swimming, 5.2km. Long set, no core/stretching to start.
T - Climbing at Wintour's Leap. Seconded Al on Yr Herwehla (E1) then led Firefly (E2 sandbag). Not bad for an evening after work
W - Climbing at Brean. Onsight Bikini Atoll (6c ish) then a frustrating dogging session on Clashing Socks (7b).
T - 13km easy run, plus short core/antagonist set.
F - Rest
S - Pembroke, day 1: Brazen Buttress (E2), The Cracks (VS-), Rock Idol (E1) at Mother Carey's. Later on went to Stennis Head, soloed Riders on the Storm (HVS). Very atmospheric at high tide, a good end to the day!
S - Pembroke, day 2: Heart of Darkness/New Morning (E1), Diedre Sud (HS), Blowin' in the Wind (E1) at Mowing Word. The Heart of Darkness traverse is really committing, with a great jamming crack up New Morning to finish.
So, a good week of trad. It's great to be able to go out in the evenings after work again, and Pembroke (as always) didn't disappoint!
My afternoon at Brean wasn't so good. I think I went with the wrong attitude: I'd worked out all the moves on Clashing Socks (albeit with a slightly weird sequence through the crux, I think) and was just there to tick it off. It didn't happen. I find the rest before the headwall to be quite a psychological barrier: if I stay there long enough to recover, I seem to have left the correct headspace for the hard climbing. My main motivation to try hard was "then I won't have to do that lower wall again", which isn't enough! Basically, I'm not sufficiently motivated by the route; time to move on.
Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter.
Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most of the 'Staffordshire nose'. 8/31 routes climbed.
At least 2 more E4 attempts.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 127/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
*See week 368
> Nick Russell - Kipping under the Cromlech Boulders? Sounds like a good laugh. Well done on the E3
Yeah, good fun (if not the best night's sleep I've ever had)! Feels good to settle the score with The Swan too.
M - Swimming, 5.2km. Long set, no core/stretching to start.
T - Climbing at Wintour's Leap. Seconded Al on Yr Herwehla (E1) then led Firefly (E2 sandbag). Not bad for an evening after work
W - Climbing at Brean. Onsight Bikini Atoll (6c ish) then a frustrating dogging session on Clashing Socks (7b).
T - 13km easy run, plus short core/antagonist set.
F - Rest
S - Pembroke, day 1: Brazen Buttress (E2), The Cracks (VS-), Rock Idol (E1) at Mother Carey's. Later on went to Stennis Head, soloed Riders on the Storm (HVS). Very atmospheric at high tide, a good end to the day!
S - Pembroke, day 2: Heart of Darkness/New Morning (E1), Diedre Sud (HS), Blowin' in the Wind (E1) at Mowing Word. The Heart of Darkness traverse is really committing, with a great jamming crack up New Morning to finish.
So, a good week of trad. It's great to be able to go out in the evenings after work again, and Pembroke (as always) didn't disappoint!
My afternoon at Brean wasn't so good. I think I went with the wrong attitude: I'd worked out all the moves on Clashing Socks (albeit with a slightly weird sequence through the crux, I think) and was just there to tick it off. It didn't happen. I find the rest before the headwall to be quite a psychological barrier: if I stay there long enough to recover, I seem to have left the correct headspace for the hard climbing. My main motivation to try hard was "then I won't have to do that lower wall again", which isn't enough! Basically, I'm not sufficiently motivated by the route; time to move on.
Short term goals (April)
Make some progress* on a 7c.
Climb some classic Lake district mountain routes at Easter.
Medium term goals (end of June)
7c sport
Make some progress* on a 7c+.
Recce most of the 'Staffordshire nose'. 8/31 routes climbed.
At least 2 more E4 attempts.
Long term goals (2014)
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+, season's best: 7a+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 1, clean onsight: 0
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 127/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr, 26.98 50fr
Life: Plan for the end of my PhD.
*See week 368
In reply to mattrm:
I agree; I'm not the lightweight XC MTB racing snake I used to be, but most people still consider me a skinny fecker and can't compute a desire to get thinner!
I've had two trips up Fisheye since getting to Oliana.
First day I was on Fisheye at about 1700 and it felt great. Good link from the deck to just below 2nd crux. Worked the rest of the route with final crux feeling slightly tweaky on the shoulder, doing a long lock to a distant edge.
Yesterday I flashed a 7c+ with ease - virtually no pump at all. (More like 7b+/c - AJM we can beta you up nicely) but had a later slot on Fisheye = grease to contend with, but at least I was better warmed up.
Tweaked shoulder again on hard move off "the rail" and generally starting to feel a bit down about the whole endeavour. With 4 of us on the route (Me, John, two Eastern Euro lasses); between me and John we're only getting a single go in the good conditions slot 4-6pm. This could translate as just 3 good goes between now and end of trip in a weeks time (5 climbing days remaining; 50% chance of having my go in good conditions window!?!)
Our only hope could be it getting colder, or for the wind not to die off in the evening to keep the grease at bay.
Alternatively, I/we sack it off and get some ticks elsewhere. There's a 8a+ extension to the 7c+ i did yesterday that tops out in an epic 50m pitch that could be a good compensation tick?
Resting/working remotely today - fingers crossed for happy shoulder and windy connies tomorrow
> Ally Smith - Hope the lard is going? Hard to explain to friends and family, why you're dieting when in their eyes you're thin already isn't it?
I agree; I'm not the lightweight XC MTB racing snake I used to be, but most people still consider me a skinny fecker and can't compute a desire to get thinner!
I've had two trips up Fisheye since getting to Oliana.
First day I was on Fisheye at about 1700 and it felt great. Good link from the deck to just below 2nd crux. Worked the rest of the route with final crux feeling slightly tweaky on the shoulder, doing a long lock to a distant edge.
Yesterday I flashed a 7c+ with ease - virtually no pump at all. (More like 7b+/c - AJM we can beta you up nicely) but had a later slot on Fisheye = grease to contend with, but at least I was better warmed up.
Tweaked shoulder again on hard move off "the rail" and generally starting to feel a bit down about the whole endeavour. With 4 of us on the route (Me, John, two Eastern Euro lasses); between me and John we're only getting a single go in the good conditions slot 4-6pm. This could translate as just 3 good goes between now and end of trip in a weeks time (5 climbing days remaining; 50% chance of having my go in good conditions window!?!)
Our only hope could be it getting colder, or for the wind not to die off in the evening to keep the grease at bay.
Alternatively, I/we sack it off and get some ticks elsewhere. There's a 8a+ extension to the 7c+ i did yesterday that tops out in an epic 50m pitch that could be a good compensation tick?
Resting/working remotely today - fingers crossed for happy shoulder and windy connies tomorrow
Post edited at 09:19
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks matt sadly I failed see sunday below.
STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
Cycle over 70 miles in the week - Fail
Big rides two of them at least - Fail
M: Rest
T: Rest. planned to ride but right knee felt odd so rested it.
W: cycled 54.5km with 609m ascent. Right knee was okay left knee hurt a bit
T: Nothing London with work
F: Short run in kensington gardens to wake up. Ran 2.5k in 14mins. First run since 2012
S: Rest Planned to do 10 miles on the bike but left knee hurt so did not legs were tired after the run.
Walked around manchester and bought a new guitar
S: Knee hurt set off anyway.
Cycled 7km with 44m ascent. Stopped after 4k as knee felt like it was about to snap. Tried to ride home 1km walk of shame pushing the bike.
Rested
Cycled 5.6km 91m ascent knee felt better but decided to give it up as a bad day and rested.
Went for a short walk to stretch the legs.
Next week Goals:
At least two large rides
Cycle commute
Get in a very large ride on Saturday
Rest Sunday
All in all a bad week.
I also broke my booze ban having a couple of glasses of wine and a JD and coke on the meal on Thursday night. This was however very restrained as it was a free bar so could of been much worse. No booze other than that though.
I could of pushed through the pain on Sunday but decided it was not worth it this close to the ride.
> grubes - Keep up the miles for the bike ride. Hope you got 70 miles this week.
Thanks matt sadly I failed see sunday below.
STG (June of 2014):
Lose 8kg
complete my bike ride
A new tick at malham
Climb harder than 6A in font
MTG (End of 2014):
Lead E2 try onsight
7A boulder - Progress 2 on the go. Holmfirth and DBS
Go to El Chorro
LTG (June of 2015):
Visit Kalymnos, catalunya and somewhere adventurous
This week's goals:
Cycle over 70 miles in the week - Fail
Big rides two of them at least - Fail
M: Rest
T: Rest. planned to ride but right knee felt odd so rested it.
W: cycled 54.5km with 609m ascent. Right knee was okay left knee hurt a bit
T: Nothing London with work
F: Short run in kensington gardens to wake up. Ran 2.5k in 14mins. First run since 2012
S: Rest Planned to do 10 miles on the bike but left knee hurt so did not legs were tired after the run.
Walked around manchester and bought a new guitar
S: Knee hurt set off anyway.
Cycled 7km with 44m ascent. Stopped after 4k as knee felt like it was about to snap. Tried to ride home 1km walk of shame pushing the bike.
Rested
Cycled 5.6km 91m ascent knee felt better but decided to give it up as a bad day and rested.
Went for a short walk to stretch the legs.
Next week Goals:
At least two large rides
Cycle commute
Get in a very large ride on Saturday
Rest Sunday
All in all a bad week.
I also broke my booze ban having a couple of glasses of wine and a JD and coke on the meal on Thursday night. This was however very restrained as it was a free bar so could of been much worse. No booze other than that though.
I could of pushed through the pain on Sunday but decided it was not worth it this close to the ride.
In reply to JimmyKay:
How did you find Wimberry. I was tempted to go there myself but its only a 20min drive for me. I thought it would be green damp and midgey
Say hi to Gary and Mel for me I am meant to be going later in the year (hopefully).
How did you find Wimberry. I was tempted to go there myself but its only a 20min drive for me. I thought it would be green damp and midgey
Say hi to Gary and Mel for me I am meant to be going later in the year (hopefully).
In reply to grubes:
Could the knee trouble be a bike setup problem? If you're using spds then getting your posture right on the bike is essential, any decent bike shop should be able to sort out a proper bike fitting service. Triangle cycles in horsforth or woodrup on kirkstall lane are good in Leeds.
Could the knee trouble be a bike setup problem? If you're using spds then getting your posture right on the bike is essential, any decent bike shop should be able to sort out a proper bike fitting service. Triangle cycles in horsforth or woodrup on kirkstall lane are good in Leeds.
In reply to grubes:
It was the opposite. No midges, clean and dry. Obviously until it started raining. Climbing was ok, wasn't sure it was up tot the same standard as some of the other western and eastern venues as suggested in the guide. Crag looked pretty scary.
It was the opposite. No midges, clean and dry. Obviously until it started raining. Climbing was ok, wasn't sure it was up tot the same standard as some of the other western and eastern venues as suggested in the guide. Crag looked pretty scary.
Post edited at 10:48
In reply to mattrm:
cheers for doing Fc club Mattrm
last week- turkey. average. better than the trip tp spain. didn't acieve anything special but stayed awake throughout the days, one rest day due to very sore fibgers, ran every day (up a hill ona road.. zzzz.. but views good) love the area..it's ace.. tufa climbing felt almost impossible as seriosuly lacking wide pinch strength and technique.
week before uk... 4x boudering at rochdale. power and PE. went ok, usul cardio, couple of MTB rides, weights, core etc.
PPG
cheers for doing Fc club Mattrm
last week- turkey. average. better than the trip tp spain. didn't acieve anything special but stayed awake throughout the days, one rest day due to very sore fibgers, ran every day (up a hill ona road.. zzzz.. but views good) love the area..it's ace.. tufa climbing felt almost impossible as seriosuly lacking wide pinch strength and technique.
week before uk... 4x boudering at rochdale. power and PE. went ok, usul cardio, couple of MTB rides, weights, core etc.
PPG
In reply to JimmyKay:
Best gritstone crag IMO closely followed by the roaches but I f*cking hate stanage so what do I know
If you every fancy trad a brilliant quiet location here is a ticklist
Route 1 hs only but worth it
Route 2 vs if only the rest was as good as the start
Pinball wizard e1/2
Blasphemy e2
Charm e3
Experience routes
Berries bug bear S get a mate to do it and watch
Trident hvs expect who ever leads this to saw what tw*t grade this f*cking hvs ..
Same with the other two classic hvs's
Scary
Well it's got plenty of them
Piety looks amazing at e2/3
It's worth the walk in which is solid E2
Best gritstone crag IMO closely followed by the roaches but I f*cking hate stanage so what do I know
If you every fancy trad a brilliant quiet location here is a ticklist
Route 1 hs only but worth it
Route 2 vs if only the rest was as good as the start
Pinball wizard e1/2
Blasphemy e2
Charm e3
Experience routes
Berries bug bear S get a mate to do it and watch
Trident hvs expect who ever leads this to saw what tw*t grade this f*cking hvs ..
Same with the other two classic hvs's
Scary
Well it's got plenty of them
Piety looks amazing at e2/3
It's worth the walk in which is solid E2
In reply to Eagle River:
Bike is set up okay got it checked out when the spds were fit.
just think is bad knees left over from playing football and regularly getting studs in my knee
Bit of rest and will be okay
Only 9days till the ride
Bike is set up okay got it checked out when the spds were fit.
just think is bad knees left over from playing football and regularly getting studs in my knee
Bit of rest and will be okay
Only 9days till the ride
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers for doing this weeks matt, sounds like you need to get on that 8a then!
Feeling pretty tired today but put down a good week of training so satisfied. Decided to take the plunge and ask for some help from one of the coaches down the club so I am now no longer a self-coached athlete!
M: Lunchtime - 5M easy in 32:48, pm - 9M steady in 62:43
Tu: Lunchtime 5/6M easy in 39:23, pm - 1st track session of the year - 12x300 off 1min recovery. Ouch! This came as a bit of a shock to the system but was pretty happy to average 48's for the reps as it was pretty windy. 8/9M total.
W: am - 11M easy in 81:58 - left soleus sore so used the foam roller.
Th: pm - 5/6M easy in 38:14, foam roller on calf/soleus.
F: pm - 5M in 30:59 felt good
Sa: am - Went to a local parkrun and ran with one of the other guys from the club. Session was: 5K parkrun, 15mins recovery then 6x2.5 mins with 1 min jog. Was quite breezy and the course not flat so was quite pleased to come second (to my clubmate) in 15:32. The reps afterwards were: 2:14, 2:14, 2:14, 2:15, 2:16, 2:14 so consistent despite being hard work! pm - 4M very easy in 32:01, tired! Left calf tight.
Su: am - watched the marathon then went out for fairly easy run. 14/15M in 1:45:48, tired, left calf still tight.
~75M total for the week. Happy with the session on Saturday, hopefully 15:32 on that course would equate to 15-20 seconds quicker on the track in good conditions so form is coming along nicely. Plan is now another week of training then get on the track for a race (prob a 3K).
Cheers for doing this weeks matt, sounds like you need to get on that 8a then!
Feeling pretty tired today but put down a good week of training so satisfied. Decided to take the plunge and ask for some help from one of the coaches down the club so I am now no longer a self-coached athlete!
M: Lunchtime - 5M easy in 32:48, pm - 9M steady in 62:43
Tu: Lunchtime 5/6M easy in 39:23, pm - 1st track session of the year - 12x300 off 1min recovery. Ouch! This came as a bit of a shock to the system but was pretty happy to average 48's for the reps as it was pretty windy. 8/9M total.
W: am - 11M easy in 81:58 - left soleus sore so used the foam roller.
Th: pm - 5/6M easy in 38:14, foam roller on calf/soleus.
F: pm - 5M in 30:59 felt good
Sa: am - Went to a local parkrun and ran with one of the other guys from the club. Session was: 5K parkrun, 15mins recovery then 6x2.5 mins with 1 min jog. Was quite breezy and the course not flat so was quite pleased to come second (to my clubmate) in 15:32. The reps afterwards were: 2:14, 2:14, 2:14, 2:15, 2:16, 2:14 so consistent despite being hard work! pm - 4M very easy in 32:01, tired! Left calf tight.
Su: am - watched the marathon then went out for fairly easy run. 14/15M in 1:45:48, tired, left calf still tight.
~75M total for the week. Happy with the session on Saturday, hopefully 15:32 on that course would equate to 15-20 seconds quicker on the track in good conditions so form is coming along nicely. Plan is now another week of training then get on the track for a race (prob a 3K).
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks mattrm.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6c
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (June) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9
This week:
Monday-Thursday- relaxed on holiday. Did some abs and press ups
F- drove home
S- Flew to kalymnos
S- didn't get in until late so had a late start. Fuddled on some 5Cs and a 6a.
Kalymnos is absolutely amazing!! Just building up slowly. Easily led a 6a+ today, so hopefully will fufill my goal by 2 weeks time...
Thanks mattrm.
STG (by end of May)
Boulder V6 inside
Consolidate V5 outside: left hand traverse pillar start at parisellas and the edge problem stand start.
Get lots done on two week trip to kalymnos
Onsight 6c
MTG (end of '14)
Climb more trad
Boulder V6 in font (June) and V7 by end of year
Onsight 7a redpoint 7b
LTG
Lead 8a
Boulder V9
This week:
Monday-Thursday- relaxed on holiday. Did some abs and press ups
F- drove home
S- Flew to kalymnos
S- didn't get in until late so had a late start. Fuddled on some 5Cs and a 6a.
Kalymnos is absolutely amazing!! Just building up slowly. Easily led a 6a+ today, so hopefully will fufill my goal by 2 weeks time...
In reply to Ally Smith:
Happily take a 7b+/c tick if ones going...
Sounds like a bugger conditions wise on Fisheye. Hope it improves for you.
See you on Thurs, either on the crag or in the evening...
Happily take a 7b+/c tick if ones going...
Sounds like a bugger conditions wise on Fisheye. Hope it improves for you.
See you on Thurs, either on the crag or in the evening...
In reply to pork pie girl:
I find tufas hard and scary, and struggle with wide pinch thing as well. Though I think after a couple of days they perhaps get a bit more doable, or at least you're more mentally prepared for them!
I find tufas hard and scary, and struggle with wide pinch thing as well. Though I think after a couple of days they perhaps get a bit more doable, or at least you're more mentally prepared for them!
In reply to mattrm: Thanks for doing Fit Club Matt - not sure I should really get a 'well done' for v4 though, especially when CY is crushing v7! #musttryharder....
Anyway onto last week - I need to start keeping a note of sessions as I'm forgetting what I'm doing during the week:
M - resting after long run
T - short gently run (25mins) to try and get the legs working again
W - Biscuit Factory bouldering - spent as much time catching up with a friend as bouldering and had to scoot early, so a fun session but not that productive
T - tried running to work - got 100m from the house and took a flier - I think it was a combination of about 3 different trips that eventually landed me on the floor up against a parked car 5m later. One bashed up elbow and a sore knee. Jogged half heartedly for a mile to Greenwich train station and got train rest of the way to work. Spent rest of the day trying not to bleed over things
F - nothing (train oop north)
S - climbing at Penmaen Head - did 6 routes, up to 6b+
S - mini mountain marathon over the back of the Carnedds - 4hours up and down hills. Not sure route choice was the best but we came 20 overall and 2nd mixed team so pretty happy. Was happy to get navigation pretty much spot on in the mist (the sun only cleared the cloud away after we reached the finish!) and to keep going, though struggled on a couple of the steeper hills.
Plan for this week is to recover for JK (big orienteering event) at the weekend. I've seen an old copy of the map - I am going to get soooo lost
Anyway onto last week - I need to start keeping a note of sessions as I'm forgetting what I'm doing during the week:
M - resting after long run
T - short gently run (25mins) to try and get the legs working again
W - Biscuit Factory bouldering - spent as much time catching up with a friend as bouldering and had to scoot early, so a fun session but not that productive
T - tried running to work - got 100m from the house and took a flier - I think it was a combination of about 3 different trips that eventually landed me on the floor up against a parked car 5m later. One bashed up elbow and a sore knee. Jogged half heartedly for a mile to Greenwich train station and got train rest of the way to work. Spent rest of the day trying not to bleed over things
F - nothing (train oop north)
S - climbing at Penmaen Head - did 6 routes, up to 6b+
S - mini mountain marathon over the back of the Carnedds - 4hours up and down hills. Not sure route choice was the best but we came 20 overall and 2nd mixed team so pretty happy. Was happy to get navigation pretty much spot on in the mist (the sun only cleared the cloud away after we reached the finish!) and to keep going, though struggled on a couple of the steeper hills.
Plan for this week is to recover for JK (big orienteering event) at the weekend. I've seen an old copy of the map - I am going to get soooo lost
In reply to Ali:
I find a lot of my initial tufa struggle at the start of any trip is to do with being confident on the feet - dropkneeing and bridging on bobbles on the tufa when you've only got sidepulls for your hands takes some trusting to get used to! And if you're not confident on the feet then you end up in the wrong body positions and pinching the pipes for dear life.....
I find a lot of my initial tufa struggle at the start of any trip is to do with being confident on the feet - dropkneeing and bridging on bobbles on the tufa when you've only got sidepulls for your hands takes some trusting to get used to! And if you're not confident on the feet then you end up in the wrong body positions and pinching the pipes for dear life.....
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
Not a great week.
M - Resting.
T - Double fingerboard session. Morning strength, afternoon endurance.
W - Hip flexibility exercises.
Th - Climbing outside. Various routes in the 6a+ to 6b+ range. Totally burned off by my wife. Wonder why it is that I'm (attempting) to train and seem to be getting gradually worse, whilst she does no training and keeps getting better?
F - Hip flexibilty exercises.
S - General session on my woody.
Sn - Hung over.
Thanks Matt.
Not a great week.
M - Resting.
T - Double fingerboard session. Morning strength, afternoon endurance.
W - Hip flexibility exercises.
Th - Climbing outside. Various routes in the 6a+ to 6b+ range. Totally burned off by my wife. Wonder why it is that I'm (attempting) to train and seem to be getting gradually worse, whilst she does no training and keeps getting better?
F - Hip flexibilty exercises.
S - General session on my woody.
Sn - Hung over.
In reply to mattrm:
Hiya, thanks for doing the fitclub thread.
Got back from Turkey yesterday. It's a really good climbing venue, vert techy climbing which wasn't what I was expecting or anything I'm any good at.. but good inspiring lines. I spent the first three days really exhausted (combination of pre-holiday work outs catching up with me and giving up caffeine for the holiday). Day 4 was a rest day then days 5 to 7 were back on track.
The highlights for me were onsighting a 6c+ on day 6 and redpointing a 7a on day 5, both really good routes. Failed on a 6c on day 2 which was annoying. Other than that I ticked a few 6b+s, 6bs and below. The last day was super hot on all the routes so I clip sticked up a 7a+ and had a couple of goes on top rope. I was syked to lead it but it was boiling hot on the route and getting late so I gave up on it, unfinished business for next time.
Didn't get on any 7bs.
So another meh trip in terms of grade ticks but I've definitely improved on techy vert climbing and by the end of the holiday I was doing ok.
Generally I'm still in a backward slide from last year. I think it's a lack of "try hard" and it may be inevitable anyway after the grade push from last year. I've been expecting to find 7as progressively easier but actually they're still hard!! Still enjoying the climbing though so I may well just go with the downward slide for a while and have some fun climbing good routes. Definitely NOT going to give up caffeine on a trip again though, that was an energy sapper for sure and probably affected my performance and syke for the first 3 days.
Also did a couple of uphill running sessions in Turkey.
STG: 7as or quick 7bs in France in May.
MTG: Get back on trad.
LTG: Hmmm...
Hiya, thanks for doing the fitclub thread.
Got back from Turkey yesterday. It's a really good climbing venue, vert techy climbing which wasn't what I was expecting or anything I'm any good at.. but good inspiring lines. I spent the first three days really exhausted (combination of pre-holiday work outs catching up with me and giving up caffeine for the holiday). Day 4 was a rest day then days 5 to 7 were back on track.
The highlights for me were onsighting a 6c+ on day 6 and redpointing a 7a on day 5, both really good routes. Failed on a 6c on day 2 which was annoying. Other than that I ticked a few 6b+s, 6bs and below. The last day was super hot on all the routes so I clip sticked up a 7a+ and had a couple of goes on top rope. I was syked to lead it but it was boiling hot on the route and getting late so I gave up on it, unfinished business for next time.
Didn't get on any 7bs.
So another meh trip in terms of grade ticks but I've definitely improved on techy vert climbing and by the end of the holiday I was doing ok.
Generally I'm still in a backward slide from last year. I think it's a lack of "try hard" and it may be inevitable anyway after the grade push from last year. I've been expecting to find 7as progressively easier but actually they're still hard!! Still enjoying the climbing though so I may well just go with the downward slide for a while and have some fun climbing good routes. Definitely NOT going to give up caffeine on a trip again though, that was an energy sapper for sure and probably affected my performance and syke for the first 3 days.
Also did a couple of uphill running sessions in Turkey.
STG: 7as or quick 7bs in France in May.
MTG: Get back on trad.
LTG: Hmmm...
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Welcome to the club!
I managed to top rope 3 7as at the wall last night without making the injury angrier which I'm taking as major progress.
Still, its sooooooooo dull not being able to try hard routes.
Welcome to the club!
I managed to top rope 3 7as at the wall last night without making the injury angrier which I'm taking as major progress.
Still, its sooooooooo dull not being able to try hard routes.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Tough life!
> Got back from Turkey yesterday.
> STG: 7as or quick 7bs in France in May.
> STG: 7as or quick 7bs in France in May.
Tough life!
In reply to Eagle River:
30 miles tonight knee was fine guess it's just the running teach me not to run
30 miles tonight knee was fine guess it's just the running teach me not to run
In reply to Eagle River:
Don't know how you cope! I'm going to ignore mine for a bit longer and hope for the best. And ice it. Yeah, that'll work, be as a good as new in no time.
Don't know how you cope! I'm going to ignore mine for a bit longer and hope for the best. And ice it. Yeah, that'll work, be as a good as new in no time.
In reply to AJM:
We're staying in Liaucous near Le Rozier. Planning to climb at Le Boffi and Gorges du Tarn. 5 to 15 May. Will you be around? Would be good to hook up if so.
We're staying in Liaucous near Le Rozier. Planning to climb at Le Boffi and Gorges du Tarn. 5 to 15 May. Will you be around? Would be good to hook up if so.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
okay now repeat after me ... I will not use the finger board, I will not use the fingerboard
> And my fnger's f*cked.
okay now repeat after me ... I will not use the finger board, I will not use the fingerboard
In reply to mattrm:
Just wondering, currently I use the fingerboard for about 15-20 minutes once a week. What are people thoughts on increasing that to two or three 15-20 minute sessions? I genuinely struggle to make more than two climbing/bouldering sessions a week, so it's not an option to do more climbing. Sadly.
Just wondering, currently I use the fingerboard for about 15-20 minutes once a week. What are people thoughts on increasing that to two or three 15-20 minute sessions? I genuinely struggle to make more than two climbing/bouldering sessions a week, so it's not an option to do more climbing. Sadly.
In reply to mattrm:
Does 15-20 minutes include warm-up? I'd probably be going for increasing the duration of that one session before adding more. When I do a session on mine, it ideally consists of:
a short run (~15-20 minutes) for getting the heart rate up, general aerobic warm-up
10-15 minutes of very easy hangs and general shoulder/elbow mobility, arm swings etc. (incidentally I've found juggling surprisingly effective for this!)
about 40 minutes of hard hangs (normally repeaters) with plenty of rest between sets.
some core/antagonist work (15-20 minutes)
Of course, I don't always manage all this and I can understand that you might not have 2 hours to spare.
Does 15-20 minutes include warm-up? I'd probably be going for increasing the duration of that one session before adding more. When I do a session on mine, it ideally consists of:
Of course, I don't always manage all this and I can understand that you might not have 2 hours to spare.
In reply to mattrm:
On a slightly different note, anyone got good sport crag recommendations in South Wales which will be in condition Friday and have a decent range of grades? Staying near Merthyr for the weekend and looking for a cragging venue Friday, ideally quick and easy to get to with some routes 6a-6b range and a decent 7a/+.
Quiddity's suggested Dinas which looks awesome for me, but the lower grade climbs seem a bit less raved about. AJM suggested Tirpentwys which looks a possibility and the Gap (though looking at pics may favour Tirpentwys). Any info / suggestions would be appreciated. Also ideally somewhere we can get info / topo online for as I'd rather not buy a guidebook for half a day!
On a slightly different note, anyone got good sport crag recommendations in South Wales which will be in condition Friday and have a decent range of grades? Staying near Merthyr for the weekend and looking for a cragging venue Friday, ideally quick and easy to get to with some routes 6a-6b range and a decent 7a/+.
Quiddity's suggested Dinas which looks awesome for me, but the lower grade climbs seem a bit less raved about. AJM suggested Tirpentwys which looks a possibility and the Gap (though looking at pics may favour Tirpentwys). Any info / suggestions would be appreciated. Also ideally somewhere we can get info / topo online for as I'd rather not buy a guidebook for half a day!
In reply to Nick Russell:
I've never been totally sure what a warm up on a fingerboard consists of. Normally I just do the following:
pull-ups, push-ups and a bit of general arm flailing (highly technical I know) to get warmed up (sometimes I also do fingerboarding after my 30-45 mins of core work, but that varies)
Then I just do a bunch of bent arm hangs. Normally:
three fingers, one arm
four fingers, one arm
three fingers, both arms
four fingers, both arms
All on some variant of hang for 10 seconds, 3 reps, with 5 second rests. Which really doesn't take long. My fingerboard is just a 2 by 4 screwed to the wall with a slightly rounded edge. I've never bothered with doing two or one finger hangs as I'd just be training my ring and index finger, which gets a hammering during the three and four finger hangs.
I've never been totally sure what a warm up on a fingerboard consists of. Normally I just do the following:
pull-ups, push-ups and a bit of general arm flailing (highly technical I know) to get warmed up (sometimes I also do fingerboarding after my 30-45 mins of core work, but that varies)
Then I just do a bunch of bent arm hangs. Normally:
three fingers, one arm
four fingers, one arm
three fingers, both arms
four fingers, both arms
All on some variant of hang for 10 seconds, 3 reps, with 5 second rests. Which really doesn't take long. My fingerboard is just a 2 by 4 screwed to the wall with a slightly rounded edge. I've never bothered with doing two or one finger hangs as I'd just be training my ring and index finger, which gets a hammering during the three and four finger hangs.
In reply to Ali:
That's because it's very average (in comparison with the higher grade stuff, which is great).
> Quiddity's suggested Dinas which looks awesome for me, but the lower grade climbs seem a bit less raved about
That's because it's very average (in comparison with the higher grade stuff, which is great).
In reply to Ali:
I'm free to climb on Friday, but I have emailed hms about climbing on Friday. Bearing in mind I've never climbed much above 6b (so I'm just going on what others say), here's my suggestions:
Dinas is iffy below 7a really. But Berlin is an excellent 7a. There's some ok routes below that for warming up on. It should have stopped seeping by Friday. I hope.
Navigation Quarry is near Merthyr, with a bunch of nice routes. However the bolting is a bit 'designer danger' in places, 5/6 bolts on a 25 meter route isn't always much fun. But it has the excellent Western Front Direct, which is one of the best 7as in the area and that is well bolted. Generally doesn't seep loads, so should be ok.
Topo - http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Navigation_Quarry_-_Cilfyny...
Tirpentwys is excellent. But is really a 6a-6c venue, as there's not much in the 7s. Again, hopefully should be dry by Friday.
Sirhowy looks nice, but I've never been there. Details on wiki here:
http://swmc.org.uk/wiki/Sirhowy_-_Quarry_Mawr
Maybe a bit far, but Witches Point is nice. It's great from 6a to 8a really. The approach across the beach is tidal for 1.5 hours either side of high tide, but the stuff on the right side of the cliff isn't tidal. You can climb up a 5+ to a steep grass path out to the top of the cliff as well. Tides here - http://www.bridgendbites.com/TideTable.aspx
This link is often useful:
http://swmc.org.uk/wiki/Best_For..
There's generally topos for most crags on the wiki.
I'm free to climb on Friday, but I have emailed hms about climbing on Friday. Bearing in mind I've never climbed much above 6b (so I'm just going on what others say), here's my suggestions:
Dinas is iffy below 7a really. But Berlin is an excellent 7a. There's some ok routes below that for warming up on. It should have stopped seeping by Friday. I hope.
Navigation Quarry is near Merthyr, with a bunch of nice routes. However the bolting is a bit 'designer danger' in places, 5/6 bolts on a 25 meter route isn't always much fun. But it has the excellent Western Front Direct, which is one of the best 7as in the area and that is well bolted. Generally doesn't seep loads, so should be ok.
Topo - http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Navigation_Quarry_-_Cilfyny...
Tirpentwys is excellent. But is really a 6a-6c venue, as there's not much in the 7s. Again, hopefully should be dry by Friday.
Sirhowy looks nice, but I've never been there. Details on wiki here:
http://swmc.org.uk/wiki/Sirhowy_-_Quarry_Mawr
Maybe a bit far, but Witches Point is nice. It's great from 6a to 8a really. The approach across the beach is tidal for 1.5 hours either side of high tide, but the stuff on the right side of the cliff isn't tidal. You can climb up a 5+ to a steep grass path out to the top of the cliff as well. Tides here - http://www.bridgendbites.com/TideTable.aspx
This link is often useful:
http://swmc.org.uk/wiki/Best_For..
There's generally topos for most crags on the wiki.
In reply to mattrm:
I'm not sure either really, but a run and some easy hangs seems to work for me. (Plus the arm flailing, of course!)
Good job with the one-arm hangs, I've never managed to keep good form (elbows and shoulders) with one arm... something to work on when I get the fingerboard out again.
During the main part of my session, I normally focus on repeaters: that is, 6x[7s on/3s off]. I normally aim for 6-10 sets, with 2-4 minutes rest in between (depending on how hard they are). I'm not really a fingerboard guru though, so can't critique if that's the most effective session.
So a 'set' for you seems to consist of 3x[10s on/5s off]. How long are you taking between each set?
I would maintain that doing 1 or 2 longer sessions (with more rest between sets if necessary) is better than doing 2 or 3 short sessions. It will be interesting to hear what others have to say on the matter.
> I've never been totally sure what a warm up on a fingerboard consists of.
I'm not sure either really, but a run and some easy hangs seems to work for me. (Plus the arm flailing, of course!)
Good job with the one-arm hangs, I've never managed to keep good form (elbows and shoulders) with one arm... something to work on when I get the fingerboard out again.
During the main part of my session, I normally focus on repeaters: that is, 6x[7s on/3s off]. I normally aim for 6-10 sets, with 2-4 minutes rest in between (depending on how hard they are). I'm not really a fingerboard guru though, so can't critique if that's the most effective session.
So a 'set' for you seems to consist of 3x[10s on/5s off]. How long are you taking between each set?
I would maintain that doing 1 or 2 longer sessions (with more rest between sets if necessary) is better than doing 2 or 3 short sessions. It will be interesting to hear what others have to say on the matter.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Should have probably said 'foot on, one arm hang', to be accurate. I'm no way saying that I can hang on one arm and three fingers at all.
Between a set? Not much really. I only do one set at as well for each of the 4 sets of fingers. Hence it only taking about 15 minutes. I'll try and up the number of sets then, to say three and take it from there.
Should have probably said 'foot on, one arm hang', to be accurate. I'm no way saying that I can hang on one arm and three fingers at all.
Between a set? Not much really. I only do one set at as well for each of the 4 sets of fingers. Hence it only taking about 15 minutes. I'll try and up the number of sets then, to say three and take it from there.
In reply to mattrm:
Cool - thanks for the info!! I'm climbing with my other half, though if you guys are around would be cool to see you. He's just getting into sport climbing so climbing around 6a/b though amenable to getting on harder stuff on a rope to try the moves. I'm fairly happy on 6s but would be quite nice to have the option of trying to get a 7 in the day!
Andy suggested Witches Point too and looks like the tides work out ok. Not so keen on spaced bolting, so may give navigation quarry a miss this time Tirpentwys sounds like it might be a good option.
Cool - thanks for the info!! I'm climbing with my other half, though if you guys are around would be cool to see you. He's just getting into sport climbing so climbing around 6a/b though amenable to getting on harder stuff on a rope to try the moves. I'm fairly happy on 6s but would be quite nice to have the option of trying to get a 7 in the day!
Andy suggested Witches Point too and looks like the tides work out ok. Not so keen on spaced bolting, so may give navigation quarry a miss this time Tirpentwys sounds like it might be a good option.
In reply to Si dH:
Slightly dodgy internet so only just got your message. Many thanks for the info. In fact, we decided as the weather was so nice and as we had 2 pads to go for broke on the bouldering. Since Sunday, we've had 3 sessions at Stanage - at apparent north, the pebble boulders and today at the grand hotel boulders. I now have no skin left at all! All told I think I got 7 V3 & 2 V4, although one of the V4 seemed very soft (didn't know that about it in advance). Did more mantels in a single session today than I have ever done before!
Slightly dodgy internet so only just got your message. Many thanks for the info. In fact, we decided as the weather was so nice and as we had 2 pads to go for broke on the bouldering. Since Sunday, we've had 3 sessions at Stanage - at apparent north, the pebble boulders and today at the grand hotel boulders. I now have no skin left at all! All told I think I got 7 V3 & 2 V4, although one of the V4 seemed very soft (didn't know that about it in advance). Did more mantels in a single session today than I have ever done before!
In reply to mattrm:
I had some questions about which order to increase things when I do repeaters or foot on campusing - on the sheet of paper I have in front of me it says...
1: Increase reps
2: Reduce rests
3: Increase intensity
Then there's some specific stuff here for campusing which doesn't apply to you. As far as foot on repeaters goes, I do 14 x 7sec on/3sec off and then rest for 4 minutes before starting again. At the moment I repeat this 7 times but am aiming to make it 9 sets as the next goal before reducing the rest.
Hope that helps.
I had some questions about which order to increase things when I do repeaters or foot on campusing - on the sheet of paper I have in front of me it says...
1: Increase reps
2: Reduce rests
3: Increase intensity
Then there's some specific stuff here for campusing which doesn't apply to you. As far as foot on repeaters goes, I do 14 x 7sec on/3sec off and then rest for 4 minutes before starting again. At the moment I repeat this 7 times but am aiming to make it 9 sets as the next goal before reducing the rest.
Hope that helps.
ln reply to Si dH:
Today was The Snapper - steep haul up excellent flakes then a mantel at the top. Prev was Quick Wall Traverse - good crimpy hands but bugger all feet. Reckon both suit an indoor/limestone climber as they were more relying on upper body hauling than scary smearing on nothingness.
Also did Wall End Grab (V3) today which was sloper hands and tenuous feet, certainly at the bottom. Really liked it.
Today was The Snapper - steep haul up excellent flakes then a mantel at the top. Prev was Quick Wall Traverse - good crimpy hands but bugger all feet. Reckon both suit an indoor/limestone climber as they were more relying on upper body hauling than scary smearing on nothingness.
Also did Wall End Grab (V3) today which was sloper hands and tenuous feet, certainly at the bottom. Really liked it.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing fit club. Endurance going well thanks
Aims:
Next few weeks training: Endurance nailed for when I can get on some routes
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr 40 endurance at wall
T: 45min road run
W: nothing
T: 40min road run
F: Blue, skills park and pump track at Llandegla with the family
S: Chasing my lads around blue, bits of red and skills park at coed y Brenin
S: As for Saturday
Felt very tired - finishing one job before starting a new one after Easter, so decided to take it easyish, hope a little time off climbing pays off.
Weight this morning 12stone, gone up.
Thanks for doing fit club. Endurance going well thanks
Aims:
Next few weeks training: Endurance nailed for when I can get on some routes
Spring HP The Asylum E5 6a(?) RP 7a quickly then possibly 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar)
Summer Lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)
Next winter start with VI 7
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr 40 endurance at wall
T: 45min road run
W: nothing
T: 40min road run
F: Blue, skills park and pump track at Llandegla with the family
S: Chasing my lads around blue, bits of red and skills park at coed y Brenin
S: As for Saturday
Felt very tired - finishing one job before starting a new one after Easter, so decided to take it easyish, hope a little time off climbing pays off.
Weight this morning 12stone, gone up.
Post edited at 19:32
In reply to hms: apparent north is a great venue, good effort on getting those ticks. On quick wall traverse did you use the big almost ground level foothold after the footless shuffle along the break? I use it, but feels a bit wrong, need someone to tell me its out to make me re work the finale.
Lower cube traverse is good at v2 if you haven't done it.
Lower cube traverse is good at v2 if you haven't done it.
In reply to mattrm:
Sorry for the late post - I've been looking after my mum and grandma this week. Hence also not a great week in terms of training!
M - bouldering Climbing Unit Derby - 10x v0-1 / f4-5+ 15x v0-2 / f5-6a+ 8x v1-3 / 6a-6b+ Ridiculously enjoyable routes. Great Wall.
T - rest
W - bouldering Brookes. Very late and after large dinner. Big room all new green circuit (11) and 3 blue circuit onsight. Worked some blues.
T - rest
F - 4 mile walk
S - 3 mile walk
S - 4 mile walk, 3 mile cycle
Sorry for the late post - I've been looking after my mum and grandma this week. Hence also not a great week in terms of training!
M - bouldering Climbing Unit Derby - 10x v0-1 / f4-5+ 15x v0-2 / f5-6a+ 8x v1-3 / 6a-6b+ Ridiculously enjoyable routes. Great Wall.
T - rest
W - bouldering Brookes. Very late and after large dinner. Big room all new green circuit (11) and 3 blue circuit onsight. Worked some blues.
T - rest
F - 4 mile walk
S - 3 mile walk
S - 4 mile walk, 3 mile cycle
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