/ Which fingerboard?
I think I have narrowed it down to either the beastmaker 1000 or the metolius project. I like the fact that the metolius board is slightly curved and the pockets have less square edges. But I also like the fact that the wood one will be kinder to my skin and look less obvious above a door.
Is one any better than the other? Any personal (positive or negative) experience with either?
In my opinion wood is definitely the way to go, so the beastmaker. Better than a fingerboard though is a small home wall or a steep wooden board (up to about 45 degrees depending on how strong you are).
Whichever you go for, start real easy with big Juggy Assisted Dead Hangs if you Value your finger tendons.
injureboards are Probably responsible for more Lengthy Climbing injury layoffs than anything else.
Beastmaker all the way. Far nicer than the metolius ones, and the 1000 has a good mix of easier / challenging holds depending on the level you're at. The beastmaker app is good too, but very hard to complete even the 5c routine!
Cheers for the replies. Even better that they are all in agreement which is very unlike ukc!
I'd love to have my own home wall, but I don't have enough room in the house. This is why I thought I'd do the next best thing. The app sounds interesting but I'll definitely start easy.
I suspect you may have narrowed past the best one, if you can get it in the UK. https://www.trango.com/p-232-rock-prodigy-training-center-by-trango.aspx . I'd go for the training manual as well, https://www.trango.com/p-284-rock-climbers-training-manual.aspx .
Another vote for the Beastmaker 1000. Very kind on your skin.
The app is worthwhile, although even the easiest 5a training session can hand out a spanking until you get into the swing of things. You have to remember that it's aspirational about where you want to get to. The website is also very funny.
There's an option in the app to set your own training times, which works well if you're working on one specific aspect.
Looks like my progression to the 2000 will take a while.
I picked on up cheap on ebay and it was a metolius one. People are right it was initially a bit tough on the skin but I just sanded it lightly and now its smoother and good. I've tried a beastmaker at my local wall and it is also good and indeed good to your skin. so either way you can sort it out.
I don't think the type of board matters a jot. They will all make you stronger if you can summon up the motivation to use it, which most can't. Smoother ones are easier on the skin but I think they are tweakier.
Think Sonny Trotter on fingerboards on his blog is interesting.
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