/ Steve House and Scott Johnston-Training for the New Alpinism
I'm re-reading to make sure I don't miss anything.
Got my copy earlier in the week.
For me a 450 page book where each page says "do some training!" would be more appropriate
- Fairly standard sport science (and presented as such) ie no gimmicks.
- Very well presented- written clearly, good diagrams, etc.
- Selection of anecdotes maintains interest and reinforces main information
- Aimed at 'elite' or high performance only. Beginners or 'improving punters' who want to use this as a training manual might struggle to apply the information.
All in all, I give it 10/10. If you're already well up on your sport science you might not find anything new, but it does apply sport science to a particular aim that probably isn't directly covered as well anywhere else. If you're a beginner, or a punter, then you're probably better off using something like Conditioning for Outdoor Performance.
Ultimately, it's direct application will only apply to a small number of people- those with high dedication seeking high performance in the mountains, or those who have, say, signed up for an "jagged globe" type expedition and are going all out to achieve that.
But if you're interested in the subject it's a good read.
Reviewed on ukb: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24041.0.html
I reviewed it here: https://gearandmountains.wordpress.com/2014/04/11/training-for-the-new-alpinism-review/ I'd agree that it's an excellent book but not for beginners nor for people with no interest in sports science.
my copy should be here soon, was expecting today actually. As a bit of a sports science geek it would be interesting to see their take, and how they train.
What I'm hoping to gain from the book is the opinions and methods of training from far more experienced climbers which will help dictate my own training. I think the level of fitness elite climbers have is amazing and something to aim for.
Plus I'm looking forward to the pretty pictures
> Plus I'm looking forward to the pretty pictures
I'm sure you'll not be disapointed in this :)
Didn't notice this thread...Bought it yesterday, started reading yesterday :). Not so pretty pictures as it's on the Kindle.
Liked your review. Please avoid the hideous it driven functionality...
Pretty sure your twight quote was right.
A true classic.
Is there much on psychology?
I'll be getting a copy as I now can't rely on doing lots of mountains to get fit.
Great for stopping my plate from burning the table when eating my dinner.
Cheers, though not sure what you mean by the "it driven functionality"...?
Yes, there's a whole chapter on the mind and about risk and it comes to a nice conclusion with the idea that you can't be 'out there' all the time - it's just too hard on you and too dangerous.
The word functionality is horrible. I think it started to be used by IT companies but given my awful spelling and grammar on here I probably shouldn't criticise..
Elsewhere on the site
This survey is being conducted by the Outdoor Industries Association in order to find out more about how and why people... Read more
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
The Grivel A&D Ascender & Descender is brand new for Autumn 2014 and incorporates a revolutionary and innovative patented... Read more