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Partner promiscuity

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Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
John Horscroft wrote recently in his Climber column on the subject of choosing climbing partners:
"Perhaps there's a patron Saint of Climbing Lost Causes watching over us. Perhaps we are just brilliant judges of character. Or perhaps we are just lucky. But I reckon my days of climbing promiscuity are numbered and I'm going to stick to climbing with the missus, nail varnish and all."

This got me thinking about the number of times I have happily allowed myself to be belayed by a complete novice (only on routes I think I won't fall off of course!), and of an occasion when my partner went up the Aiguille d'Argentiere with a bloke he met in the campsite the night before.

Its funny though, I am quite happy to be belayed by novices, but won't allow myself to be led by someone I don't trust completely. Somehow, if I am leading, I can cope with the idea of a partner who is an unknown quantity, at least to a certain extent, I am in control?

Luckily my partner's illicit liason with Joe Bloggs from the campsite proved to be a good partnership. (Danny, please email us when the Ben is in!) But Danny had a cautionary tale. Earlier in the week he had agreed to go climbing with another stranger who had designs on the Forbes Arete. Off they went to their planned high altitude bivy, with Danny slightly peturbed to discover that his new partner needed to be shown how to put his crampons on. At the bivy site, his plucky companion produced a clean change of clothes, a smart shirt, jeans and a wash bag! For Danny, this partnership would last no longer than a one night stand and the beat a hasty retreat in the morning.

So my question is, how do you choose your climbing partners? Do you ever climb with unknown quantities? Have you had any bad experiences of climbing with strangers? Enough of you advertise on the lifts and partners board, so there must be some good tales to tell.
stonemaster 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home): How to choose partners? Easy, go for the good looking ones. Climb with unknown.... There has to be a first time for every thing. Bad experiences? Not so bad that I can't still talk about it unlike my mate who is still recovering from brain damage sustained in a fall in August. Be careful.
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to stonemaster:
Just had a look at your profile- no mugshot! So I can't tell if under your criteria you'd make a good climbing partner.
stonemaster 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home): Sorry about lack of mugshot. Still working on it. Bit of a Luddite. Been lucky enough to be asked to climb with some bigname climbers (not necessarily because of my good looks).
In reply to Lucy (at home):
I was once dropped the length (height?) of liverpool uni climbing wall by a complete stranger.

My tip? Never trust a man wearing sandals. Epsecially if he has on white socks underneath.
Ben Tye 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

I've told this story on here before... but

I went climbing with a friend of a fried who I didn't know that well for a day on the Lleyn.. to cut a long story short he got on a route that was too hard and a tad bold... fell off and broke both his feet and legs.. I had to solo out of a crumbling zawn and summon a helicopter rescue.. resulting in a total epic complete with local news coverage.. in short a complete nightmare which knocked my confidence for a good two years (panic attacks, couldn't lead etc.)

So I tend to very wary about who I climb with these days..

B
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Ben Tye:
I was hoping for tales of lucky escapes, but your story is just down right scary.
Most people seem to go climbing with people they don't know at some point in their climbing careers, or are there some sensible bods who insist on a cv and a life history before placing their life in someone elses hands.

Horscrofts point is that more than any other extreme sport, climbing relies on good teamwork, so why is it that we are so laissez faire about who we climb with?
OP Ben 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

why is it that we are so laissez faire about who we climb with?

Because it never occurs to us that someone who has offered to climb with us doesn't actually know how to. It just doesn't add up does it - you've offered to climb with me but don't actually know how?! Duh??!!

The idea of offering up CVs has worrying similarities to a recent article in either Summit or OTE about requiring licenses to use climbing walls. Perhaps a more moderate compromise would be for climbing walls to offer a kind of introduction service where they can vet people for their knowledge. Just a thought.
John Cox 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Ben Tye:

>So I tend to very wary about who I climb with these days..<

Hey, come on, Ben - you climbed with me, didn't you?

I'll basically climb with anyone who hasn't revealed themselves to be a complete tit. Isn't one of the glories of our sport the opportunities it affords for meeting different people you otherwise wouldn't meet and having intense experiences with them? I'd tend to climb routes I wasn't going to fall off until I knew they could belay, though.
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Ben:
Was joking about the CV but seriously, in our campsite friend's case, he assumed that because this guy wanted to do the Forbes Arete, he'd have a modicum of experience. His complete lack of experience only showed up when he carried the contents of his tent up to an alpine bivy and couldn't put his crampons on.
I took my brother on his first climbing trip and got him belaying me on the lead straight away with no previous experience. I somehow assumed that becasue we were related, he'd take great care of my life, but even so, when I found myself a bit out of my depth on a crack climb, I was just that teensy bit more scared than usual.
Whilst my partner was on the Aiguille d'Argentiere with Danny, I was on a conville course, and whilst I was being looked after by the guide on my rope, I felt that one of the party members was unsafe, and refused to go climbing with him when the course finished. This was borne out by the fact that he had a lucky escape in an avoidable abseiling accident a couple of days later. There are lots of dodgy climbers out there!
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Ben:
Been thinking about your climbing wall introduction service. I used to go to an adults climbing club at my local wall that served that purpose, where I met a lot of the people I climb with. There was an instructor on hand for performance and training advice and we used to go to informal outdoors meets where he'd help us out with learning the technical stuff.
Only prob is, I fell in love with the instructor, and persuaded him to quit his job and move in with me, so I don't go to the club anymore. Not that much of a problem though as I now have the best climbing partner a gal could wish for cluttering up my living room.
OP Ben 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

If I were to try that trick I would be accused either of harassment or of being a kept man

I did an introductory climbing course in August and met my two climbing partners there, but if it wasn't for that then I think I would have a hard time convincing other regular climbers to take me on as a novice.
John Cox 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

I went climbing once with a gentleman who assured me he'd climbed up to 5.11 in the US and mentioned some big names he reckoned he'd climbed with. He wanted to do Astral Stroll (4 pitch E1 sea-cliff traverse). I sensed that we might have some difficulty when he needed a rope on the descent path.

He was a professional photographer, and had with him a camera which he kept telling me was over $1,000 worth of kit.

The first pitch is only 4b, but not well protected. I led it. He handed his camera to the party waiting with the word, 'Can you take a shot of me here. This looks like a really photogenic move.', stepped down on to the traverse, missed his footing and fell 20' into the sea. The bystander, showing great presence of mind, took a marvellous picture of the waters closing over our hero's head, with only his bald patch showing.

We fished him out and continued, and his performance on the rest of the route was pretty much on a par. For example, he left the whole of the belay at the first stance behind to anchor a back rope (I had to solo the first pitch there and back later to retrieve it.) After taking about an hour to follow the third pitch he arrived with a beaming grin and declared, "That was nice. Not hard, not strenuous, just nice." Haven't had the pleasure of climbing with him since.
Graham 23 Nov 2001
In reply to John Cox re: "stepped down on to the traverse, missed his footing and fell 20' into the sea"

ROFLMAO.

G
 Carolyn 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Graham:

Me too! (But it'd be better with the piccy!)
Jo 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

Not had too many differnt climbing partners...well 3 actually...no 4. All of which I researched thoroughly (watching and asking) before setting foot on rock with em, with the exception of my current climbing partner who I know as a mate too. Hopefully I'm going climbing with someone else this winter, but their (very good) reputation and CV precedes them anyhow!


Don't think I would ever ever go off with someone who I'd met in the pub the night before. A MRT freind once told me a story about how he was bluffed by this bloke waaaaaaay in the past before he knew any better, who had (as another mate says) "all the gear, but no idea".this bloke convinced my mate that he'd done serious mountains. Took him up Ben Macdhui from Devils Pont side, the bloke freaked out (?), wouldnt go any further, sat down in a blizzard, mate couldnt move him, hypothermia set in, mate stuck him inside a sleeping bag, bivvy sack and an orange survival sack, tied him in completely, ran back to Derry Lodge, phoned MRT, ran back by which time MRT were out with the copter, and a team were on the hill near the position he'd given, only to find the bloke had somehow undid himself from the bags, wandered off. He was found sometime later huddling under a boulder and airlifted to raigmore. My mate, out of courtesy went to visit him the next day and said he had never ever wanted to punch someone so hard in his entire life.
Adrian Paisey 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home): ("only on routes I think I won't fall off of course!)" - My advice is, if you're bing belayed, make sure they know what they're doing. Otherwise just solo it!
John Cox 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Carolyn:

>(But it'd be better with the piccy!)<

It would but I haven't got it. Henry is very sensitive about showing it to people.

DAMN! There! I've gone and mentioned his name. Silly me.
Ben Tye 23 Nov 2001
In reply to John Cox:

>Hey, come on, Ben - you climbed with me, didn't you?

Yeah... but I had a private investigator check you out first

B





Ben Tye 23 Nov 2001
In reply to John Cox:

I guess what I meant to say was that I won't just go off climbing again with someone who I just met or had no idea of their climbing ability. I do really enjoy going climbing with "strangers" but only when I'm confident of their ability and their appreciation of safety.

The fact that you'd driven all the way from London to demonstrate that The Vice was only HVS was enough for me

Have a good weekend - I'm switching off now..

B
dave at mar 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

Funny thing, I've arranged (possibly out of desperation as I work shifts) to go climbing this winter with someone whom I've never met.
Think the first route choice might have to be one I'd be happy soloing, or one with plenty of gear to escape off............or maybe both.

Or maybe I shouldn't be such a pessimistic arrogant bastard, as she might be the one pulling me out of the hole!

d a m ned
guy 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home): You got me thinking about the people I climb with, I have often climbed with people I just found on the crag or with people found through adds in walls etc. with no problems at all( ok I climbed within my limits), the only time I worry about partners is when I climb with people I work with. One lad I will only climb at Severe or less with( I can climb up to E2) as he beleives he can belay. I once witnessed him belaying another of my mates climbing at his limit, and he let go of the rope several times, It's even more worrying he didn't realise he was doing any thing wrong and that TWO WEEKS LATER HE PASSED HIS SPA ASSESMENT( AND STILL CANT BELAY). I'm almost tempted to name him in the hope he will realise his misstakes.
OP ulcer 23 Nov 2001
In reply t
o anonymyheadowowow!: was his name Phil and did he have a Brummy accent?
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
I just remembered that very early on in my climbing career I met a bloke in the Glenmore lodge bar who was doing his winter ML training. He was also building up to his MIA and needed guinea pigs to teach leading to. So I drove up to the lakes on my own to meet this guy I didn't know from Adam to learn leading. He was mostly pretty good, but I remember on our second or third climbing day together he went off route whilst leading on Wallowbarrow and got stuck. I had to scramble up and accross this ledge to him to drop him a rope as night closed in and the rain began to fall. I still climb with him mind you...
OP JonC 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

one epic in 3 days - sounds pretty damn reasonable to me
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to JonC:
Once we had got ourselves safely on terra firma all he could say was "Bloody hell! I've never been rescued by a girl before!"
OP JonC 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

I've seen the photo (on here) and I wouldn't mind either. Nice shades

Oh, was that the vino talking..?
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to JonC:
Are you drunk Jon? Surely not on a Friday. I'm sat here deliberating about whether to jump in the car at 6am and head for sheffield as it seems ot be the only place in the country thats going to get nice weather. Only prob is, I've got a gammy wrist, no money and its 4 hours drive....
Is it worth it?
OP JonC 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

ah well, not really (he says hiding what's left of the bottle in the corner).

yes, doesn't look worthwhile heading further north does it?!

have spent a few weekends recently in the Peaks struggling on damp rock - well,it's good for the soul but not your grades or your confidence come to that

why not go walking - what with the trees in these wonderful autumnal colours at the moment? I ask myself that often
OP JonC 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy:

missed you at the Roaches this autumn btw...actually, avoided it like the plague...prefer the eastern edges myself...did you get here at all?
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to JonC:
Had quite a fun day at the Roaches- one of those decide last thing whilst very pissed and leap in the car next morning. Except I was monstrously hungover and kept having to stop on the way to be sick...
Also spent a very very damp afternoon at Hen Cloud scaring ourselves silly on stuff that should be easy. Also hungover, as it was the day after a wedding in Buxton!
Expect we'll be back, though the option for tomorrow is Froggat as Wally hasn't been there before.
OP JonC 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

Roaches - vomit - nice

Froggatt - brilliant place - pick me up en route pl - do yo want some hot tips re routes to do? he asks expectantly...
Lucy (at home) 23 Nov 2001
In reply to JonC:
Have been there before, but hot tips always appreciated!
Sadly I think we may have talked ourselves out of it this time as we are both carrying injuries.
CENSORED 23 Nov 2001
In reply to guy:If he's really that bad name & shame the "ass"essors that passed him!!
OP JonC 23 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):

ah yes, went through very bad injury patch some time ago - now a bit better but suffering shoulder (rotator cuff) and elbow (tendonitis) and finger (tendon) injuries. Apart from that, couldn't be better (oh apart from the hip...and the knee...seriously...)

OK - routes - how about (and, yes, these are designed to be soft and flatter grades etc)...

Trapeze - V Diff - actually not that soft at the grade and steeper than it looks - take a "big" friend for the horizontal break

Heather Wall - Severe - great route, good pro, not too steep, get past the hard start and you're cruising - classic and "pleasant"

Sunset Crack - VS 4b not very easy but slabby and great gear so reasonably soft for the grade

Trapeze Direct - VS 4c - Trapeze taken direct - a one move problem - but quite a hard move really - and really good pro - so just try it

Sundowner - HVS 5a (with side-runner) - just next to Sunset Crack and a great test of slab climbing at the close to extreme level but safe if you put a high runner in the crak to the right (E2 without). Still a bit necky at HVS but god will you feel good - just go for it!

Tody's Wall - HVS 5a - hmmmm...not easy at all...in fact more of sandbag...but classic...get onto the block then try to stand up and then rockover onto the upper slab to the right....all it takes is some faith, honestly

CMC Slab - HVS 5a - take the slab just to the left of Heather Wall direct with a side-runner or two in Heather Wall. Again, great slab climbing just sub-extreme and actually very safe. Just believe and make the move

Three Pebble Slab - E1 5a - well, no good gear to speak of (debate) but actually the crux is protected ok and it's just the top run-out slab (4c?) which is necky. Easy for E1 - well, I did it didn't I?!

Just some ideas/favourites...
 sutty 24 Nov 2001
In reply to Lucy (at home):
Go a bit further and take a map and compass and have a walk round kinder if your injuries are arm type rather than leg ones. You can do a bit of bouldering or do a few easy routes on the edges and you will have most of the day to yourselves up there.
Eastern part of the country seems the best bet, what climbing is there round the wash? :-o

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