In reply to Cusco:
> Hi. The family holiday close to Javea (up the coast from Calpe) has been booked for early June. I probably won't have the brownie points and time to head to Finestrat/Sella or to do a full day on the Penon.
I found myself in exactly the same situation, also in Javea, about 25 years ago. On a few days I got up at 5am, nipped down to eg Toix or Altea (quick drive, even quicker approach) and hitched a ride on local lads ropes. They were always very accommodating. Nowadays I'd think you'd meet Brits, making it even easier (assuming you could find any Brits up and out that early!). Climbing would cease by 10.30 or 11.00 when the sun came round and I'd head back to the villa via beer and tapas for breakfast, all in good time to spend the day with the family.
I didn't know then but there's nearer climbing - have a look at the Xalo Valley section in RockFax. A good roadside venue is Alcalali.
I went exploring along the local cliffs and found some bolts, recruited the dad of the other family we were with to hold my rope and got a coupe of routes done. I've subsequently discovered it's all long been climbed on by locals but not made it into guide books, as far as I know. There's some rudimentary info and topos here:
http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/topos/Topo_Javea.pdf
Have a great holiday.