/ Javea, Costa Blanca, Spain
The family holiday close to Javea (up the coast from Calpe) has been booked for early June.
Does anyone have any information about crags/routes/bouldering in that area where I might grab an early morning or late evening route (I know it will be hot - but that's a darn sight better than Lowman last Saturday morning!)?
I probably won't have the brownie points and time to head to Finestrat/Sella or to do a full day on the Penon.
Also, does anyone live nearby or have any contact with local climbers?
I found myself in exactly the same situation, also in Javea, about 25 years ago. On a few days I got up at 5am, nipped down to eg Toix or Altea (quick drive, even quicker approach) and hitched a ride on local lads ropes. They were always very accommodating. Nowadays I'd think you'd meet Brits, making it even easier (assuming you could find any Brits up and out that early!). Climbing would cease by 10.30 or 11.00 when the sun came round and I'd head back to the villa via beer and tapas for breakfast, all in good time to spend the day with the family.
I didn't know then but there's nearer climbing - have a look at the Xalo Valley section in RockFax. A good roadside venue is Alcalali.
I went exploring along the local cliffs and found some bolts, recruited the dad of the other family we were with to hold my rope and got a coupe of routes done. I've subsequently discovered it's all long been climbed on by locals but not made it into guide books, as far as I know. There's some rudimentary info and topos here:
Have a great holiday.
There is lots of DWS round there which might better for that time of year? I think rich has a topo on the Orange house website. Otherwise there are some north-facing crags in the Xalo valley (e.g. l'ocaive) which will be tolerable as long as there are no bees. Alcalali will be hotter than the surface of the sun - it's too hot there in december sometimes.
... and if you are the same cusco I climbed with at torbryan/ansteys a year or two back - hello!
"Alcalali will be hotter than the surface of the sun - it's too hot there in december sometimes".
Not at 0600 hours!
"what does the 0 stand for? ... "
For a cheeky bit of bouldering there is a small but quite nice venue in Les Rotes (20 min away by car). It's right on the beach, so very picturesque and no mat needed. The rock is a sort of red sandstone which makes a nice change from the sharp limestone everywhere else.
If you search for 'Restaurante Ca Nano, Carretera Barranco del Moño, 140, Dénia, Spain' on googlemaps, this is where you will find the car park right by the beach and boulders. There's another cave over up the hill and down some steps from here too.
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm really looking forward to it.
Jonathan - yep, tis I. You still in Bridport? Hope all is well. I've been going through a trad revival in the last few months. I need to do some sport though to get a bit of fitness back.
You could try this place, and take the family with you it's a lovely secluded beach and only gets sun in the morning. Les Rotes is a bouldering site above sand only 1 minute from the car park, it is just over the hill from Javea just off the coast road to Denia. I'm sure you can find it on Google Earth.
The rock is limestone with more of a grit feel to it, the rock is sound.
For the first time in years The Orange House is still open until end of June, climbers coming later and later and just picking shady crags and starting early etc.
Might be a few people staying here that are coming your way so send me some details to put on the notice board if you want.
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