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Simple question! What what your worst, or most stupid climbing related purchase. I'm stretching here because I've usually done far too much research into these things.
1) 1 30cm sling. I ordered one just for the hell of it. They are too small for anything, except racking cams on whilst in my bag.
2) The original Petzl attache: Heavy, small, and weak.
3) Pair of climbing shoes that are too tight. Ah, the classic mistake. Barely used.
1) 1 30cm sling. I ordered one just for the hell of it. They are too small for anything, except racking cams on whilst in my bag.
2) The original Petzl attache: Heavy, small, and weak.
3) Pair of climbing shoes that are too tight. Ah, the classic mistake. Barely used.
In reply to gdnknf:
Nope you're thinking of the 60cm trad draw length . The 30cm is as long as a 15cm quickdraw. It's tiny.
Anything Renault breaks down :/.
Nope you're thinking of the 60cm trad draw length . The 30cm is as long as a 15cm quickdraw. It's tiny.
Anything Renault breaks down :/.
Post edited at 22:57
In reply to FreshSlate:
Daisy chain sling. Have had it 5 years and never, ever, ever, found a need to use it. Ever.
Daisy chain sling. Have had it 5 years and never, ever, ever, found a need to use it. Ever.
In reply to peebles boy:
+1 Daisy chain.
Once tried to use it on a multipitch in Wales and it was worse than useless. It kept tangling with other gear / my legs. I also couldn't get my head around how to clip two holes at once without accidentally leaving myself only attached to the weak links.
+1 Daisy chain.
Once tried to use it on a multipitch in Wales and it was worse than useless. It kept tangling with other gear / my legs. I also couldn't get my head around how to clip two holes at once without accidentally leaving myself only attached to the weak links.
In reply to splat2million:
+2. Although good for organising your rack. And (obviously) aiding, which we have tonnes of in the UK.
+2. Although good for organising your rack. And (obviously) aiding, which we have tonnes of in the UK.
In reply to peebles boy:
Use it to rack your gear. Cams on one loop, wires the next, QDs the next etc. Lay it out and easily find what you need on the rack for the next route/day out.
Damn. Ian got there first as I was typing... Must type faster
> Daisy chain sling. Have had it 5 years and never, ever, ever, found a need to use it. Ever.
Use it to rack your gear. Cams on one loop, wires the next, QDs the next etc. Lay it out and easily find what you need on the rack for the next route/day out.
Damn. Ian got there first as I was typing... Must type faster
Post edited at 23:14
In reply to FreshSlate:
Oh yeah, you are right. That sling does sound useless then. Ha.
> Nope you're thinking of the 60cm trad draw length . The 30cm is as long as a 15cm quickdraw. It's tiny.
Oh yeah, you are right. That sling does sound useless then. Ha.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Some 'self centralising' harness a few years ago. After a couple of uses the floating belay anchor part sort of rolled up and formed an uncomfortable lump at the waist
Some 'self centralising' harness a few years ago. After a couple of uses the floating belay anchor part sort of rolled up and formed an uncomfortable lump at the waist
In reply to peebles boy:
Another +1
> Daisy chain sling. Have had it 5 years and never, ever, ever, found a need to use it. Ever.
Another +1
In reply to FreshSlate:
Ok!!! So the stupid purchase I made wasn't the gear but what the staff said.....
I was in Go Outdoors and wanted to buy a harness... Found the harness I wanted to buy tried it on and seemed nice so I though I would like to sit in it and make sure it didn't cut it or anything.... So I stop a member of staff... I asked ' do you have anywhere I can sit in this harness?' The young lad then looked at me rather surprised turned around and pointed at a bench in the corner and said ' would there be alright for you sir' I then suddenly burst into laughter and he looked rather stumped why I was laughing at what he just said!
Probably the stupidest experience I've ever had!
Matt
Ok!!! So the stupid purchase I made wasn't the gear but what the staff said.....
I was in Go Outdoors and wanted to buy a harness... Found the harness I wanted to buy tried it on and seemed nice so I though I would like to sit in it and make sure it didn't cut it or anything.... So I stop a member of staff... I asked ' do you have anywhere I can sit in this harness?' The young lad then looked at me rather surprised turned around and pointed at a bench in the corner and said ' would there be alright for you sir' I then suddenly burst into laughter and he looked rather stumped why I was laughing at what he just said!
Probably the stupidest experience I've ever had!
Matt
In reply to FreshSlate:
Dru sac - fell apart. (Yep, 15 year old Mick, in all his wisdom (!?) bought the name/dream!)
God knows how many feet of hemp cord for Tarbuck knot - all that winding around your body made me dizzy.
Mick
Dru sac - fell apart. (Yep, 15 year old Mick, in all his wisdom (!?) bought the name/dream!)
God knows how many feet of hemp cord for Tarbuck knot - all that winding around your body made me dizzy.
Mick
In reply to FreshSlate:
Another for shoes... original green boreal ninjas in this instance. The most Painful footwear ever gifted to Climbing... well for my feet anyway.
Yes they were a fitted a bit small, but not overly so, and Remember that was when people were trying on Climbing shoes with slippery plastic bags on their feet to get into as small a shoe as humanly Possible.
Another for shoes... original green boreal ninjas in this instance. The most Painful footwear ever gifted to Climbing... well for my feet anyway.
Yes they were a fitted a bit small, but not overly so, and Remember that was when people were trying on Climbing shoes with slippery plastic bags on their feet to get into as small a shoe as humanly Possible.
In reply to FreshSlate:
A bouldering mat. My plan was to go bouldering if I had a spare couple if hours on my own, but the first time out I realised that without a spotter I'm too chicken to tackle anything challenging. A rope solo device was a far better purchase.
A bouldering mat. My plan was to go bouldering if I had a spare couple if hours on my own, but the first time out I realised that without a spotter I'm too chicken to tackle anything challenging. A rope solo device was a far better purchase.
In reply to matt.thornton123:
I had a similar experience in Go outdoors, but without the bench! She just looked confused! I also had a bloke in there tell me they didn't have my size in the woman's harness I wanted, but they did in the guys one and that was just the same but a different colour! Fortunately I go there for the prices, not advice!
I had a similar experience in Go outdoors, but without the bench! She just looked confused! I also had a bloke in there tell me they didn't have my size in the woman's harness I wanted, but they did in the guys one and that was just the same but a different colour! Fortunately I go there for the prices, not advice!
In reply to girlymonkey and matt:
I would have asked to "hang" in the harness.
The Go Outdoors staff are probably posting on a thread about idiotic customers
I would have asked to "hang" in the harness.
The Go Outdoors staff are probably posting on a thread about idiotic customers
In reply to FreshSlate:
I got one of those strange hook things covered in webbing that apparently stores your rope tidily for you on multipitch belays. Why was that invented?! I won it in a raffle.
I got one of those strange hook things covered in webbing that apparently stores your rope tidily for you on multipitch belays. Why was that invented?! I won it in a raffle.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Back at the beginning - Clog wires - single taper wedges on steel hawser - useless.
I never liked MOACs either - all too ratttly for my liking
A pair of felt lined over-gaiters (Chouinard, I think they were). Don't ask - it was along time ago and they were in a sale (I soon worked out why).
Micro-rocks - sort of rounded RPs that didn't fit anywhere.
Clog Vultures - the head fell off the hammer, and they were useless for pretty much anything except hooking up stuff.
Boreal Lasers - the sole might have been the right size - shame about the heel cup designed to sever your achilles tendon.
A Simond Toucan belay device (pre-Decathlon). Stupid contraption, which was a shame because its predecessor, the Cubic, was brilliant.
On the other hand, my daisy chain is a vital part of my winter climbing kit and I wouldn't be without it.
I've bought some rubbish in my time.......
Back at the beginning - Clog wires - single taper wedges on steel hawser - useless.
I never liked MOACs either - all too ratttly for my liking
A pair of felt lined over-gaiters (Chouinard, I think they were). Don't ask - it was along time ago and they were in a sale (I soon worked out why).
Micro-rocks - sort of rounded RPs that didn't fit anywhere.
Clog Vultures - the head fell off the hammer, and they were useless for pretty much anything except hooking up stuff.
Boreal Lasers - the sole might have been the right size - shame about the heel cup designed to sever your achilles tendon.
A Simond Toucan belay device (pre-Decathlon). Stupid contraption, which was a shame because its predecessor, the Cubic, was brilliant.
On the other hand, my daisy chain is a vital part of my winter climbing kit and I wouldn't be without it.
I've bought some rubbish in my time.......
In reply to FreshSlate:
I have a (1) and its purpose is indeed racking stuff. Edit: no, it's probably 60cm.
Done (3), I flogged them to my sister who is 2 sizes smaller.
Neil
I have a (1) and its purpose is indeed racking stuff. Edit: no, it's probably 60cm.
Done (3), I flogged them to my sister who is 2 sizes smaller.
Neil
Post edited at 11:10
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Many if not all branches of Go Outdoors have a climbing wall, so I'm sure it could have been arranged...
Neil
Many if not all branches of Go Outdoors have a climbing wall, so I'm sure it could have been arranged...
Neil
In reply to nniff:
Weren't these good for getting replaced by Simond Chacal/Barracudas when Clog did a recall because of the heads falling off?
> Clog Vultures - the head fell off the hammer, and they were useless for pretty much anything except hooking up stuff.
Weren't these good for getting replaced by Simond Chacal/Barracudas when Clog did a recall because of the heads falling off?
In reply to FreshSlate:
Second hand shoes. One pair was too small, the other was too worn out. I've bought brand new shoes I came to regret as well (note to self, Evolve are unsuitable for wide feet, and the Joker Plus is just shit).
Second hand shoes. One pair was too small, the other was too worn out. I've bought brand new shoes I came to regret as well (note to self, Evolve are unsuitable for wide feet, and the Joker Plus is just shit).
In reply to FreshSlate:
I bought one of those shiny bd magnetron hms crabs for the princely sum of £27 or there abouts...used it once in the real world decided it was garbage!
Its now become the club "whipper of the year" trophy
Stupid shiny things in shops cannee help myself!!!!!
I bought one of those shiny bd magnetron hms crabs for the princely sum of £27 or there abouts...used it once in the real world decided it was garbage!
Its now become the club "whipper of the year" trophy
Stupid shiny things in shops cannee help myself!!!!!
In reply to FreshSlate:
Years age there was a rumour that EBs were going out of production, I went out and bought an extra pair although the ones I already had were still fine. I was not alone in doing this. Shortly afterwards sticky rubber came in. The EBs are still in the loft, never worn.
Years age there was a rumour that EBs were going out of production, I went out and bought an extra pair although the ones I already had were still fine. I was not alone in doing this. Shortly afterwards sticky rubber came in. The EBs are still in the loft, never worn.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Many, many pairs of rock shoes. I have narrow chisel-shaped feet that scarcely taper.
Gri-Gri. Over-engineered, over-weight, over-priced and a complete faff. Never use it.
Many, many pairs of rock shoes. I have narrow chisel-shaped feet that scarcely taper.
Gri-Gri. Over-engineered, over-weight, over-priced and a complete faff. Never use it.
In reply to Andy Long:
Likewise. I've bought many pairs of rock shoes that seemed nice until it was just too late to take them back, then suddenly they were crippling and I never wore them again.
As far as gear goes, I have a Wild Country "Hand" ascender kicking about somewhere. It's a bit like a giant toothless Tibloc.
> Many, many pairs of rock shoes.
Likewise. I've bought many pairs of rock shoes that seemed nice until it was just too late to take them back, then suddenly they were crippling and I never wore them again.
As far as gear goes, I have a Wild Country "Hand" ascender kicking about somewhere. It's a bit like a giant toothless Tibloc.
In reply to FreshSlate:
A 'Big Bro' crack protection tube device thing which I bought to protect one particular move on one particular route (long story, fully related in another thread a while ago). When I got to the move....it didn't fit! Too big. I never carried it again and sold it on ebay eventually.
A set of Cassin Extreme ice axe and hammer. The ice axe pick broke off when I was soloing some small ice pitches to the left of Hell's Lum. That was interesting...
A 'Big Bro' crack protection tube device thing which I bought to protect one particular move on one particular route (long story, fully related in another thread a while ago). When I got to the move....it didn't fit! Too big. I never carried it again and sold it on ebay eventually.
A set of Cassin Extreme ice axe and hammer. The ice axe pick broke off when I was soloing some small ice pitches to the left of Hell's Lum. That was interesting...
In reply to FreshSlate:
I find that 90% of the content in all the guidebooks I've bought is useless
........ But maybe that's more to do with the grade that I climb at than the quality of the book ;-p
Mike.
I find that 90% of the content in all the guidebooks I've bought is useless
........ But maybe that's more to do with the grade that I climb at than the quality of the book ;-p
Mike.
1
In reply to Blue Straggler:
In a "sit" harness, madness!
> I would have asked to "hang" in the harness.
In a "sit" harness, madness!
In reply to FreshSlate:
Joe Brown Helmet (only ever used for carrying sandwiches)& Camp Hex on wire.
Joe Brown Helmet (only ever used for carrying sandwiches)& Camp Hex on wire.
In reply to nniff:
Completely agree. After carrying them up hundreds of routes and never placing any I gave up on them. Then I realised why: their reasoning was sound - the wire was the weakest link so make that stronger - but unfortunately they made the wire so thick it wasn't any narrower than the nut!
> Micro-rocks - sort of rounded RPs that didn't fit anywhere.
Completely agree. After carrying them up hundreds of routes and never placing any I gave up on them. Then I realised why: their reasoning was sound - the wire was the weakest link so make that stronger - but unfortunately they made the wire so thick it wasn't any narrower than the nut!
In reply to FreshSlate:
A Reverso. I was too thick to work/remember out what the hell to do with it.
Offset micro nuts which, if you think about it logically, couldn't possibly be placed usefully anywhere.
A Reverso. I was too thick to work/remember out what the hell to do with it.
Offset micro nuts which, if you think about it logically, couldn't possibly be placed usefully anywhere.
In reply to Andy Long:
Gri gri is one of the best pieces of equipment I've bought for years. Let me guess, you don't climb much sport?
It's like me saying my ice axes are useless because I don't ice climb.
> Many, many pairs of rock shoes. I have narrow chisel-shaped feet that scarcely taper.
> Gri-Gri. Over-engineered, over-weight, over-priced and a complete faff. Never use it.
Gri gri is one of the best pieces of equipment I've bought for years. Let me guess, you don't climb much sport?
It's like me saying my ice axes are useless because I don't ice climb.
In reply to andi turner:
I'll give you a tenner for the other three. I love tri-cams!
> Four tricams. I've only ever used the pink.
I'll give you a tenner for the other three. I love tri-cams!
In reply to FreshSlate:
Five-ten rock shoes, which don't fit me, but i've done it 4 times...
I blame my lack of medium term memory. "Mmmh... This shoes look like just what i need", "Wait, but i got 5.10 before and i remember i binned them after a few weeks because they were killing me", "Oh i must have been a bit of a pussy. Surely they will stretch and mould to my feet if i persevere".
A few weeks later: "Yeah, they really don't fit me. I remember now..."
This gets repeated every few years.
FWIW, the same process occurs every couple of years with going climbing to the southern sandstone.
Five-ten rock shoes, which don't fit me, but i've done it 4 times...
I blame my lack of medium term memory. "Mmmh... This shoes look like just what i need", "Wait, but i got 5.10 before and i remember i binned them after a few weeks because they were killing me", "Oh i must have been a bit of a pussy. Surely they will stretch and mould to my feet if i persevere".
A few weeks later: "Yeah, they really don't fit me. I remember now..."
This gets repeated every few years.
FWIW, the same process occurs every couple of years with going climbing to the southern sandstone.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Wild Country VC Pro, haven't even looked at it for years and was too embarrassed to sell it when someone asked for it.
Wild Country VC Pro, haven't even looked at it for years and was too embarrassed to sell it when someone asked for it.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Grigri, just never liked it.
BD First shot, why oh why!
Grivel Salamander, actually a nice helmet... though I found it slipped back so much most of my head was unprotected.
Most stupid purchase... One of those ten quid camp ice screws
Grigri, just never liked it.
BD First shot, why oh why!
Grivel Salamander, actually a nice helmet... though I found it slipped back so much most of my head was unprotected.
Most stupid purchase... One of those ten quid camp ice screws
In reply to Robert Durran:
"Offset micro nuts which, if you think about it logically, couldn't possibly be placed usefully anywhere."
Huh? I've used the DMM brass offsets quite a bit and I think they have most the advantages of the larger offsets but on smaller cracks. Having good contact with a micro nut is even more important than with a larger nut IMO.
That said I also like reverso's when used in the right cirumstances. You can take in very quickly with them which can be handy on longer easy Alpine routes which are just hard enough not to want to solo. (as well as being usefull for instructional use). I do not like being belayed by them for typical UK routes mainly as you can't move around / up / down so easily.
"Offset micro nuts which, if you think about it logically, couldn't possibly be placed usefully anywhere."
Huh? I've used the DMM brass offsets quite a bit and I think they have most the advantages of the larger offsets but on smaller cracks. Having good contact with a micro nut is even more important than with a larger nut IMO.
That said I also like reverso's when used in the right cirumstances. You can take in very quickly with them which can be handy on longer easy Alpine routes which are just hard enough not to want to solo. (as well as being usefull for instructional use). I do not like being belayed by them for typical UK routes mainly as you can't move around / up / down so easily.
Post edited at 16:21
In reply to CurlyStevo:
You can't get them into a placement in which they would stay and they would pull out of a placement it is possible to get them into. Mine have been at the bottom of a box for many years. Have never had larger offsets, but the same logic would apply.
> "Offset micro nuts which, if you think about it logically, couldn't possibly be placed usefully anywhere."
You can't get them into a placement in which they would stay and they would pull out of a placement it is possible to get them into. Mine have been at the bottom of a box for many years. Have never had larger offsets, but the same logic would apply.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Black Diamond Gridlock crab.Very poor design imho.
Apart from myself,i know of at least 2 other equally experienced climbers who like myself lost their belay devices permanantly whilst belaying from above with this device. Not coincidental imo.
Ee
Black Diamond Gridlock crab.Very poor design imho.
Apart from myself,i know of at least 2 other equally experienced climbers who like myself lost their belay devices permanantly whilst belaying from above with this device. Not coincidental imo.
Ee
Post edited at 17:06
In reply to Robert Durran:
The logic is flawed as you can get still get bomber placements out of them trust me, just as you can with sideways wallnuts and rocks. In fact very often the only good placement in flaring rock will be a flaring nut placement.
I find they go well in to small vertical cracks that flare outwards but constrict downwards especially if they are tilted back a bit towards the horiontal so the crack is pointing a bit skywards (but want to take a downward pull), but irregularities in the crack can make them work in verticail or overhanging cracks. Basically as long as the nut has to go up a bit to come out it will work.
They can also go well in to horizontal cracks that are wider at one end than the other as well as all sorts of other placements.
Do you never place sideways rocks / wallnuts in to irregular cracks because they have better contact than a normal nut?
I'm really suprised you haven't spotted these type of placements before.
The logic is flawed as you can get still get bomber placements out of them trust me, just as you can with sideways wallnuts and rocks. In fact very often the only good placement in flaring rock will be a flaring nut placement.
I find they go well in to small vertical cracks that flare outwards but constrict downwards especially if they are tilted back a bit towards the horiontal so the crack is pointing a bit skywards (but want to take a downward pull), but irregularities in the crack can make them work in verticail or overhanging cracks. Basically as long as the nut has to go up a bit to come out it will work.
They can also go well in to horizontal cracks that are wider at one end than the other as well as all sorts of other placements.
Do you never place sideways rocks / wallnuts in to irregular cracks because they have better contact than a normal nut?
I'm really suprised you haven't spotted these type of placements before.
Post edited at 16:55
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Can't stand Wallnuts. Place the odd sideways Rocks, but prefer the old symmetrical ones. I'm sure there might be the odd freak/specialised placement for these thimgs, but IMO it's not worth carrying them as part of a standard rack. I just use Rocks, Micro-rocks and RP's.
> Do you never place sideways rocks / wallnuts in to irregular cracks because they have better contact than a normal nut?
Can't stand Wallnuts. Place the odd sideways Rocks, but prefer the old symmetrical ones. I'm sure there might be the odd freak/specialised placement for these thimgs, but IMO it's not worth carrying them as part of a standard rack. I just use Rocks, Micro-rocks and RP's.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Yeah I don't own them and am not planning on buying them but my mate doesn't own a full rack so I feel like I should use the few bits of gear he has to even out the wear on mines
I do place a lot of sideways nuts though and I've been suprised how many placements can be improved using offsets and then again how many shite placements can be made perfectly adequate using them too.
People like them for a reason IMO
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1066
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Nut-Reviews/DMM-Offset-Nut
Yeah I don't own them and am not planning on buying them but my mate doesn't own a full rack so I feel like I should use the few bits of gear he has to even out the wear on mines
I do place a lot of sideways nuts though and I've been suprised how many placements can be improved using offsets and then again how many shite placements can be made perfectly adequate using them too.
People like them for a reason IMO
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1066
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Nut-Reviews/DMM-Offset-Nut
Post edited at 17:02
In reply to nniff:
That's a surprise the moac (the original forged sort) was my favourite nut and I've heard others say the same. I was sad when I lost mine, the new smoother angled anodised sort weren't so good although still better than most. A question of taste I suppose.
As for silly buys, it must be couple of rurps and skyhooks but that's because I never went to that level (of insecurity) in artificial climbing more than them being intrinsically bad.
> I never liked MOACs either - all too ratttly for my liking
That's a surprise the moac (the original forged sort) was my favourite nut and I've heard others say the same. I was sad when I lost mine, the new smoother angled anodised sort weren't so good although still better than most. A question of taste I suppose.
As for silly buys, it must be couple of rurps and skyhooks but that's because I never went to that level (of insecurity) in artificial climbing more than them being intrinsically bad.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Had a pair of Moleskin Breeches made back in the 60,s made to measure ,Looked a right tw*t in them ...
Had a pair of Moleskin Breeches made back in the 60,s made to measure ,Looked a right tw*t in them ...
In reply to john arran:
2 micro rocks are perfect for hooking the trigger bar on walked in cams, you didn't buy them thinking you'd use them as gear did you john?
2 micro rocks are perfect for hooking the trigger bar on walked in cams, you didn't buy them thinking you'd use them as gear did you john?
In reply to needvert:
Ohh yeah... I love the look of the micro traxion!
Annoying when that happens.
They've just released a new BD storm which looks awesome but mine is only 2 years old.
Ohh yeah... I love the look of the micro traxion!
Annoying when that happens.
They've just released a new BD storm which looks awesome but mine is only 2 years old.
Post edited at 17:44
In reply to nniff:
No way! I have a cubic. It's bloody awesome. Most used belay device still, and I have 2 reversos and 2 gri gris.
@Robert, a friend of mine has just bought micro offsets, he's not an aid climber either, doesn't yet own a rope or cams... WRONG ORDER ON GEAR WHORING! .
P.S Don't understand the wallnut thing. I have a set of both Wallnuts and Rocks that get taken to the crag every session. The rocks stay on the ground unless I'm doing multipitch, so I have really bashed wallnuts and good as new rocks.
@Winhill Those things are awful, the ones that just have way too much friction? I got a 'you're rope is too grippy' because of someone using one of them. That and they also had it twisted twice at the top. I'm like... 'it's not the rope...'
No way! I have a cubic. It's bloody awesome. Most used belay device still, and I have 2 reversos and 2 gri gris.
@Robert, a friend of mine has just bought micro offsets, he's not an aid climber either, doesn't yet own a rope or cams... WRONG ORDER ON GEAR WHORING! .
P.S Don't understand the wallnut thing. I have a set of both Wallnuts and Rocks that get taken to the crag every session. The rocks stay on the ground unless I'm doing multipitch, so I have really bashed wallnuts and good as new rocks.
@Winhill Those things are awful, the ones that just have way too much friction? I got a 'you're rope is too grippy' because of someone using one of them. That and they also had it twisted twice at the top. I'm like... 'it's not the rope...'
Post edited at 17:55
In reply to FreshSlate:
Have a climbing partner who bought a Mega Jul. Glad it was his money and not mine. Am desparately trying to dissuade him from using it again when I am climbing. It's problems? Try to pull up rope, it grabs (at least a gri gri is predictable). Fall off it is like hitting the ground it is so grabby, even on a 9mm half rope (Gri gri allows a little bit of rope through, whereas a good ATC type is much softer). Being lowered is like falling down a flight of large steps. His thumb gets tired and his arm aches after a 16m lower! (It is so hard to control that you come down in a fast stretch, then a sudden grab/stop, then another fast drop, etc)
Did the inventor/manufacturer ever test them in the real world? There are also problems in the USA where the stainless jul is 'grooving the outside of the belay biner!' And at one point edelrid were talking of supplying a steel crab.
Have a climbing partner who bought a Mega Jul. Glad it was his money and not mine. Am desparately trying to dissuade him from using it again when I am climbing. It's problems? Try to pull up rope, it grabs (at least a gri gri is predictable). Fall off it is like hitting the ground it is so grabby, even on a 9mm half rope (Gri gri allows a little bit of rope through, whereas a good ATC type is much softer). Being lowered is like falling down a flight of large steps. His thumb gets tired and his arm aches after a 16m lower! (It is so hard to control that you come down in a fast stretch, then a sudden grab/stop, then another fast drop, etc)
Did the inventor/manufacturer ever test them in the real world? There are also problems in the USA where the stainless jul is 'grooving the outside of the belay biner!' And at one point edelrid were talking of supplying a steel crab.
Post edited at 18:13
In reply to FreshSlate:
Wallnuts are slightly harder to clean, but other than that great bits of kit I agree.
Wallnuts are slightly harder to clean, but other than that great bits of kit I agree.
In reply to Robert Durran:
It doesn't for any size of offsets, they're all great. But then if you can't work out how to use a reverso I can see why you are having trouble. Hint, the loop of wire is for a krab, not to be pushed into a crack.
> Have never had larger offsets, but the same logic would apply.
It doesn't for any size of offsets, they're all great. But then if you can't work out how to use a reverso I can see why you are having trouble. Hint, the loop of wire is for a krab, not to be pushed into a crack.
In reply to johncook:
I've been using one over the last month and rather like it. I can see the thing about the thumb etc. but its not nearly as extreme as you are making out. So far I've found I can lower smoothly with it.
It's funny isn't it how people can have such different experiences of the same thing!
> Have a climbing partner who bought a Mega Jul.
I've been using one over the last month and rather like it. I can see the thing about the thumb etc. but its not nearly as extreme as you are making out. So far I've found I can lower smoothly with it.
It's funny isn't it how people can have such different experiences of the same thing!
Post edited at 18:47
In reply to TobyA:
I've only experienced it from the sharp end. They guy was a great belayer with an ATC, but he is a gear whore, and Outside 'sold' it to him. Now he is a very indifferent belayer. Shame really. Have you asked your partners what they honestly think of it?
I've only experienced it from the sharp end. They guy was a great belayer with an ATC, but he is a gear whore, and Outside 'sold' it to him. Now he is a very indifferent belayer. Shame really. Have you asked your partners what they honestly think of it?
In reply to johncook:
No complaints so far! I've also got them to belay me with it (and also the micro jul when using a new Edelrid skinny single).
No complaints so far! I've also got them to belay me with it (and also the micro jul when using a new Edelrid skinny single).
In reply to johncook:
...Same friend mentioned earlier in the thread has the same thing... He's bought a load of weird stuff. But he's quite new to having gear so has gone a little bit bananas and bought either useless stuff, stuff he won't use for years whilst neglecting the basics. Quite odd. Owns a daisy chain but doesn't have a rope. Nuff' said. Although I heard something about them 'fixing' the Jul?
> Have a climbing partner who bought a Mega Jul. Glad it was his money and not mine. Am desparately trying to dissuade him from using it again when I am climbing. It's problems? Try to pull up rope, it grabs (at least a gri gri is predictable). Fall off it is like hitting the ground it is so grabby, even on a 9mm half rope (Gri gri allows a little bit of rope through, whereas a good ATC type is much softer). Being lowered is like falling down a flight of large steps. His thumb gets tired and his arm aches after a 16m lower! (It is so hard to control that you come down in a fast stretch, then a sudden grab/stop, then another fast drop, etc)
> Did the inventor/manufacturer ever test them in the real world? There are also problems in the USA where the stainless jul is 'grooving the outside of the belay biner!' And at one point edelrid were talking of supplying a steel crab.
...Same friend mentioned earlier in the thread has the same thing... He's bought a load of weird stuff. But he's quite new to having gear so has gone a little bit bananas and bought either useless stuff, stuff he won't use for years whilst neglecting the basics. Quite odd. Owns a daisy chain but doesn't have a rope. Nuff' said. Although I heard something about them 'fixing' the Jul?
Post edited at 19:43
In reply to FreshSlate:
They fixed the problem with the thumb wire breaking (I believe 20% of the first batch.) Middle of last year they were recommending a steel crab via retailers in USA, not on their site. They also recommended a thin steel crab to use as a lever in the hole in the top, as the thumb loop was difficuly to use.
They fixed the problem with the thumb wire breaking (I believe 20% of the first batch.) Middle of last year they were recommending a steel crab via retailers in USA, not on their site. They also recommended a thin steel crab to use as a lever in the hole in the top, as the thumb loop was difficuly to use.
In reply to johncook:
It's also really sticky, especially in the guidemode. You're not hauling anyone up on that setup! Not that it's a common occurrence but I imagine it's not pleasant belaying with in general. Anything but a pair of new slick sub 9mm ropes and I'd be cursing the thing.
However, the caveat is that this is based off pretty limited usage.
It's also really sticky, especially in the guidemode. You're not hauling anyone up on that setup! Not that it's a common occurrence but I imagine it's not pleasant belaying with in general. Anything but a pair of new slick sub 9mm ropes and I'd be cursing the thing.
However, the caveat is that this is based off pretty limited usage.
Post edited at 20:15
In reply to peebles boy:
I really like my daisy chain. I use it on long multi-pitch climbs when I have to climb with a rucksac and thus belt gear loops are hidden or difficult to reach. I use it as a sling and rack my gear on it. the discrete loops stop all the gear sliding down into a hard to extract lump
I really like my daisy chain. I use it on long multi-pitch climbs when I have to climb with a rucksac and thus belt gear loops are hidden or difficult to reach. I use it as a sling and rack my gear on it. the discrete loops stop all the gear sliding down into a hard to extract lump
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
So basically as a gear organiser? Do you have a ATC or ATC guide? I've heard it's smoother.
So basically as a gear organiser? Do you have a ATC or ATC guide? I've heard it's smoother.
Post edited at 20:25
In reply to FreshSlate:
ATC. When I first started out I used a figure of eight, probably not the best belay device in the world but better than a waist belay.
There was also a great little quickdraw I had some years ago it was flat but had a system for locking the gate open for a quick clip. Stopped using it after there were issues with the strength of the metal
ATC. When I first started out I used a figure of eight, probably not the best belay device in the world but better than a waist belay.
There was also a great little quickdraw I had some years ago it was flat but had a system for locking the gate open for a quick clip. Stopped using it after there were issues with the strength of the metal
In reply to Mick Ward:
You are supposed to stand still and wind the rope around, not the other way around.
Deadboy for snow belays was mine - used to carry it religiously (well, mostly, anyway) and never used it. Was too poor to afford a deadman and anyway, they were too heavy
> God knows how many feet of hemp cord for Tarbuck knot - all that winding around your body made me dizzy.
You are supposed to stand still and wind the rope around, not the other way around.
Deadboy for snow belays was mine - used to carry it religiously (well, mostly, anyway) and never used it. Was too poor to afford a deadman and anyway, they were too heavy
In reply to pneame:
Oh dear... trust me to do things the wrong way round. But, for a couple of years, it seemed that the good Mr Kenneth Tarbuck had the entire climbing world in thrall.
Eventually, in my 14 year old wisdom (?), I thought, "Well there are never any runners so, if I fall off, I'm doomed anyway," and reverted to a good old bowline on 120 feet of Number Four Viking.
Apropos of which, does anybody else find it odd that we've gone from 120 foot ropes to 145, to 165, to 200? More coiling. I'm still dizzy.
Mick
Oh dear... trust me to do things the wrong way round. But, for a couple of years, it seemed that the good Mr Kenneth Tarbuck had the entire climbing world in thrall.
Eventually, in my 14 year old wisdom (?), I thought, "Well there are never any runners so, if I fall off, I'm doomed anyway," and reverted to a good old bowline on 120 feet of Number Four Viking.
Apropos of which, does anybody else find it odd that we've gone from 120 foot ropes to 145, to 165, to 200? More coiling. I'm still dizzy.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I have a 70m (227.5ft in old money) Great for running pitches together and getting lowered off long sport routes (without falling the last few feet!) A bugger when it need coiling. I have to coil it myself, my climbing partners hate the weight and the time taken.
Will not be buying an 80m, although in the way back when I did have a 300ft rope. Carried it about, uncoiled, in a sack!
I have a 70m (227.5ft in old money) Great for running pitches together and getting lowered off long sport routes (without falling the last few feet!) A bugger when it need coiling. I have to coil it myself, my climbing partners hate the weight and the time taken.
Will not be buying an 80m, although in the way back when I did have a 300ft rope. Carried it about, uncoiled, in a sack!
Post edited at 21:17
In reply to FreshSlate:
For me, CT click up, bought one after CWA training where I fell in love with it, turned out however that it doesn't work very well on any of the krabs I have -ie not locking correctly and being a pain to pull the rope through (with DMM Aero).
I'm unwilling to buy the purpose built one so hope to sell it to someone who does (hint hint anyone).
For me, CT click up, bought one after CWA training where I fell in love with it, turned out however that it doesn't work very well on any of the krabs I have -ie not locking correctly and being a pain to pull the rope through (with DMM Aero).
I'm unwilling to buy the purpose built one so hope to sell it to someone who does (hint hint anyone).
In reply to johncook:
Ah yes, circa 1971 got an almost 300 (two lots of 145 joined together??) 'cheap'. God, they saw me coming! Hadn't the heart or the wit to cut it. More (and more) coiling. It lived on my (previously mentioned crap purchase) Dru sac, wobbling about precariously. Red-faced with effort, I'd stagger up and down the Pass, in the pissing rain, ever-hopeful of a life (which rarely materialised). Anybody else for a drowned rat in their car?
After a lifetime of coiling, my coiling's got slightly better. But honestly, it's so much easier to throw it in a rope bag. And sit on aforesaid rope bag, slurping coffee and munching sarnies and banging on about the bad old (err, I mean good old) days.
Mick
Ah yes, circa 1971 got an almost 300 (two lots of 145 joined together??) 'cheap'. God, they saw me coming! Hadn't the heart or the wit to cut it. More (and more) coiling. It lived on my (previously mentioned crap purchase) Dru sac, wobbling about precariously. Red-faced with effort, I'd stagger up and down the Pass, in the pissing rain, ever-hopeful of a life (which rarely materialised). Anybody else for a drowned rat in their car?
After a lifetime of coiling, my coiling's got slightly better. But honestly, it's so much easier to throw it in a rope bag. And sit on aforesaid rope bag, slurping coffee and munching sarnies and banging on about the bad old (err, I mean good old) days.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I'd stagger up and down the Pass, in the pissing rain, ever-hopeful of a life
Poetic
I'd stagger up and down the Pass, in the pissing rain, ever-hopeful of a life
Poetic
In reply to Mick Ward:
It absolutely horrifies me - being rather puny, I always found coiling the rope the most exhausting thing about climbing. And rope drag
> Apropos of which, does anybody else find it odd that we've gone from 120 foot ropes to 145, to 165, to 200? More coiling. I'm still dizzy.
It absolutely horrifies me - being rather puny, I always found coiling the rope the most exhausting thing about climbing. And rope drag
In reply to Mick Ward:
mate of mine had a 300 ft rope that he was very pleased with.
After faffing around at the start of an alpine route....
"Jack, have got a knife?"
"No youth, I haven't! What's it for?"
"To cut this rope in half"
"F... off!"
mate of mine had a 300 ft rope that he was very pleased with.
After faffing around at the start of an alpine route....
"Jack, have got a knife?"
"No youth, I haven't! What's it for?"
"To cut this rope in half"
"F... off!"
Post edited at 21:44
In reply to pneame:
On my first ever 'expedition' I had to get all of our ropes up a steep scrambly pitch - about Severe or so - to the start of the hard climbing.
In addition to the 2 lead lines I had 3 more ropes for fixing and between them they must have weighed 30kg or so. Daunted by the thought of climbing with a 30kg sack I just uncoiled them all and trailed them, which worked really well ... at first. By the end of the long pitch I not only had 30kg of rope weight hanging off me but 300m of rope drag too!
On my first ever 'expedition' I had to get all of our ropes up a steep scrambly pitch - about Severe or so - to the start of the hard climbing.
In addition to the 2 lead lines I had 3 more ropes for fixing and between them they must have weighed 30kg or so. Daunted by the thought of climbing with a 30kg sack I just uncoiled them all and trailed them, which worked really well ... at first. By the end of the long pitch I not only had 30kg of rope weight hanging off me but 300m of rope drag too!
In reply to FreshSlate:
A Deadman which was never used. For some unknown reason I later bought a mini-deadman, probably on the basis it was less faff to carry, but that never got used either.
A Deadman which was never used. For some unknown reason I later bought a mini-deadman, probably on the basis it was less faff to carry, but that never got used either.
In reply to FreshSlate:
micro wallnuts are up there. The things are far too wide to fit in a crack that small on any rock I've even encountered with the possible exception of pembroke sandstone
Size 00 Metolius master cam, at least I got it cheap. The things is so small and so wide I can't ever see myself using it outside of an aid situation.
micro wallnuts are up there. The things are far too wide to fit in a crack that small on any rock I've even encountered with the possible exception of pembroke sandstone
Size 00 Metolius master cam, at least I got it cheap. The things is so small and so wide I can't ever see myself using it outside of an aid situation.
In reply to pneame:
I was struggling to coil a mate's 60 metre (200 foot!) rope, last weekend and remembered the near 300 foot horror. These days, it wouldn't have lasted five minutes before being cut/burned/blown up, etc, etc.
Sometimes it's easier to just solo off into the sunset. Far more likely to reach the pub while it's still open.
Mick
I was struggling to coil a mate's 60 metre (200 foot!) rope, last weekend and remembered the near 300 foot horror. These days, it wouldn't have lasted five minutes before being cut/burned/blown up, etc, etc.
Sometimes it's easier to just solo off into the sunset. Far more likely to reach the pub while it's still open.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I used to try and explain that soloing was easier than leading but no-one seemed to buy it and I was looked at as if I had a wellie on my head
young bold and stupid....
I used to try and explain that soloing was easier than leading but no-one seemed to buy it and I was looked at as if I had a wellie on my head
young bold and stupid....
In reply to Pete Pozman:
Wow. There's a blast from the past!
Seriously? The little ones can be great in pockets where nothing else will work.
Whilst I'm here I'll also refer to two other things already mentioned:
1. Simond Cubik: I agree - a really good belay device.
2. Black Diamond Bod: That's a classic design of harness which, personally, I've found excellent. muppetfilter: have a Doctor look at your testicles - maybe it's those which are the problem?
> A set of Bivos ...
Wow. There's a blast from the past!
> ... all my tri-cams.
Seriously? The little ones can be great in pockets where nothing else will work.
Whilst I'm here I'll also refer to two other things already mentioned:
1. Simond Cubik: I agree - a really good belay device.
2. Black Diamond Bod: That's a classic design of harness which, personally, I've found excellent. muppetfilter: have a Doctor look at your testicles - maybe it's those which are the problem?
Post edited at 10:38
In reply to Robert Durran:
The DMM (HB) brass offsets work wonders on the slate, fitting where no other nut will. I also find that the size 7-11 DMM offset nuts fit beautifully in many a place in North Wales. Both essential nuts on my rack!
The DMM (HB) brass offsets work wonders on the slate, fitting where no other nut will. I also find that the size 7-11 DMM offset nuts fit beautifully in many a place in North Wales. Both essential nuts on my rack!
In reply to Mick Ward:
That can't be right. With age comes wisdom. Which actually seems to be observable.
Or maybe wisdom = cunning
Whatever
As they say
I'm just glad my purchase of useless snow protection gear isn't unique. Makes me seem less foolish. The damn thing couldn't even be used as a shovel unlike modern incarnations
That can't be right. With age comes wisdom. Which actually seems to be observable.
Or maybe wisdom = cunning
Whatever
As they say
I'm just glad my purchase of useless snow protection gear isn't unique. Makes me seem less foolish. The damn thing couldn't even be used as a shovel unlike modern incarnations
In reply to nniff:
I loved MOACs. Compared to what had gone before they were wonderful. I remember hauling myself round that top overhang on Extol and slapping about three of them into that friendly groove.
I loved MOACs. Compared to what had gone before they were wonderful. I remember hauling myself round that top overhang on Extol and slapping about three of them into that friendly groove.
In reply to Hannes:
I've got some of them as well but was quite alarmed when I read about how weak the small ones are. Any brass nuts of the same size are way better - offsets or RPs. Stopped carrying the micro wall nuts below the 1/2 and 3/4 sizes; the 00 you could probably snap with your hands!
> micro wallnuts are up there.
I've got some of them as well but was quite alarmed when I read about how weak the small ones are. Any brass nuts of the same size are way better - offsets or RPs. Stopped carrying the micro wall nuts below the 1/2 and 3/4 sizes; the 00 you could probably snap with your hands!
In reply to Rob Parsons:
Used Alpine Bods for years and at the time they were good but I do agree with Muppetf - you need to check your where your testicles are before long abs - I remember working this out on an epic, in the dark, descent off Tower Ridge in the dark and a blizzard. There were enough things going wrong already - threatening my future family as well seemed a bit much!
> 2. Black Diamond Bod: That's a classic design of harness which, personally, I've found excellent. muppetfilter: have a Doctor look at your testicles - maybe it's those which are the problem?
Used Alpine Bods for years and at the time they were good but I do agree with Muppetf - you need to check your where your testicles are before long abs - I remember working this out on an epic, in the dark, descent off Tower Ridge in the dark and a blizzard. There were enough things going wrong already - threatening my future family as well seemed a bit much!
In reply to TobyA:
Wore an Alpine Bod for the Cuillin Ridge earlier this week. Really comfortable owing to the absence of a belay loop pulling the leg loop up between your 'nads. At least when no rope is attached (ie for much of the ridge). But the ab off the Inn Pinn was excruciating. I managed to keep my crown jewels clear of harm, only to suffer agonising hip displacement.
Wore an Alpine Bod for the Cuillin Ridge earlier this week. Really comfortable owing to the absence of a belay loop pulling the leg loop up between your 'nads. At least when no rope is attached (ie for much of the ridge). But the ab off the Inn Pinn was excruciating. I managed to keep my crown jewels clear of harm, only to suffer agonising hip displacement.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Oh, and a shunt. Never used it.
A bong! I actually carried the monster peg on a few Scottish routes before I realised I'd never use it. Not sure if you can even get them now.
Eastern European ice screws bought in the Clachaig - not by me but by friends.
Oh, and a shunt. Never used it.
A bong! I actually carried the monster peg on a few Scottish routes before I realised I'd never use it. Not sure if you can even get them now.
Eastern European ice screws bought in the Clachaig - not by me but by friends.
In reply to winhill:
I agree, it's shit and keeps catching the rope when you try to give slack on lead belaying etc. So bad.
> Wild Country VC Pro, haven't even looked at it for years and was too embarrassed to sell it when someone asked for it.
I agree, it's shit and keeps catching the rope when you try to give slack on lead belaying etc. So bad.
In reply to FreshSlate:
Being inexperienced and tight I stupidly bought some cheapo camp ice screws. I tried to place one once and it was such a pain in the arse I bought some grivel 360s and have never taken the camp ones out since. I guess I could take one out with the hope that I'd need to leave it somewhere to abb off of but they are so bloody heavy too.
Being inexperienced and tight I stupidly bought some cheapo camp ice screws. I tried to place one once and it was such a pain in the arse I bought some grivel 360s and have never taken the camp ones out since. I guess I could take one out with the hope that I'd need to leave it somewhere to abb off of but they are so bloody heavy too.
In reply to FreshSlate:
One of wide 'standard' nylon slings right at the start. I discovered dyneema soon after and never looked back.
A petzl shunt... got it for top rope soloing on the cheap (it was also from ebay. lol) but never used it and it wouldn't be used for abbing as prussiks are lighter. Pointless!
One of wide 'standard' nylon slings right at the start. I discovered dyneema soon after and never looked back.
A petzl shunt... got it for top rope soloing on the cheap (it was also from ebay. lol) but never used it and it wouldn't be used for abbing as prussiks are lighter. Pointless!
In reply to Robert Durran:
How much do you want for your micro offsets then? I'll have them off you.
How much do you want for your micro offsets then? I'll have them off you.
In reply to crayefish:
Shunts have a point but maybe a relatively specialist one. I agree that it's to heavy to carry as an alternative to a prussik - but if you spend a lot of time hanging on ab ropes (for me it is often while brushing new routes and cleaning out the cracks which can be a pretty epic job where I live) they work rather well. They work alright for self top roping too at least on stuff not too steep, but climbing with a mate is always preferable!
> A petzl shunt... got it for top rope soloing on the cheap (it was also from ebay. lol) but never used it and it wouldn't be used for abbing as prussiks are lighter. Pointless!
Shunts have a point but maybe a relatively specialist one. I agree that it's to heavy to carry as an alternative to a prussik - but if you spend a lot of time hanging on ab ropes (for me it is often while brushing new routes and cleaning out the cracks which can be a pretty epic job where I live) they work rather well. They work alright for self top roping too at least on stuff not too steep, but climbing with a mate is always preferable!
In reply to FreshSlate:
Given the UKC popularity of hexes, I'm surprised tricams are not held in high regard. I stopped carrying most of my hexes after I got more cams, but I still carry the tricams.
Given the UKC popularity of hexes, I'm surprised tricams are not held in high regard. I stopped carrying most of my hexes after I got more cams, but I still carry the tricams.
In reply to FreshSlate:
- Screwgates that are too small for anything other than clipping a sling and inoperable in gloves
- One of those steel net-bags for keeping a rucksack/ bag safe when you're not around; just keep the bag with you!
- Rarely used my shunt, but occasionally good
- Guidebooks for every nook and cranny in north Wales that I've visited once or twice
- Pair of ice axes off ebay as beginner kit for GF; they were utterly shagged - my fault for not looking closely enough, James!
- Screwgates that are too small for anything other than clipping a sling and inoperable in gloves
- One of those steel net-bags for keeping a rucksack/ bag safe when you're not around; just keep the bag with you!
- Rarely used my shunt, but occasionally good
- Guidebooks for every nook and cranny in north Wales that I've visited once or twice
- Pair of ice axes off ebay as beginner kit for GF; they were utterly shagged - my fault for not looking closely enough, James!
In reply to winhill:
+1 utterly useless! Could barely squeeze a single rope into the bloody thing!
> Wild Country VC Pro, haven't even looked at it for years and was too embarrassed to sell it when someone asked for it.
+1 utterly useless! Could barely squeeze a single rope into the bloody thing!
In reply to cb_6:
I have wide feet and have just bought some Evolv Capitan approach shoes on the back of Toby A's review. They are too narrow.
I have a poor record when it comes to buying footwear. Some hefty Scarpa B2s from the mid 90s that I tried on in a shop were too big on the hill, so I over compensated ia few years later and bought some Nepal Extremes that are too small. Sandy Ogilvie at the Castle had even sent me three sizes to try, and I still chose the wrong one.
Any Salomon footwear, of any sort, does not fit me. I should know that, but still periodically buy some more, just to test the theory.
Oh, and, (edit), I bought some Scarpa Mescalitos once. Nice looking boots, but pointless. No good if it is the slightest bit wet or snowy, don't take a crampon, and no better than any old pair of approach shoes for what, in the end, you are able to use them for. Btw, my wife keeps calling these "walking towards" shoes, and even speaks of her desire for a Ten to Two pair of them. I have to watch out or I will start to copy her.
But, here is to second hand shoes! With one exception (Salomons for me!) they (rock boots that is) kept my kids going for several years at crags and walls.
For my most useless purchases though, it has to be the second hand bikes I have bought. Not all of them, not the two work horses now in the hall, or the two for my two daughters, but the fancy road bike and the fancy FS MTB I bought, one of them from here, when my knowledge of what I was doing didn't match the price I was paying.
I have wide feet and have just bought some Evolv Capitan approach shoes on the back of Toby A's review. They are too narrow.
I have a poor record when it comes to buying footwear. Some hefty Scarpa B2s from the mid 90s that I tried on in a shop were too big on the hill, so I over compensated ia few years later and bought some Nepal Extremes that are too small. Sandy Ogilvie at the Castle had even sent me three sizes to try, and I still chose the wrong one.
Any Salomon footwear, of any sort, does not fit me. I should know that, but still periodically buy some more, just to test the theory.
Oh, and, (edit), I bought some Scarpa Mescalitos once. Nice looking boots, but pointless. No good if it is the slightest bit wet or snowy, don't take a crampon, and no better than any old pair of approach shoes for what, in the end, you are able to use them for. Btw, my wife keeps calling these "walking towards" shoes, and even speaks of her desire for a Ten to Two pair of them. I have to watch out or I will start to copy her.
But, here is to second hand shoes! With one exception (Salomons for me!) they (rock boots that is) kept my kids going for several years at crags and walls.
For my most useless purchases though, it has to be the second hand bikes I have bought. Not all of them, not the two work horses now in the hall, or the two for my two daughters, but the fancy road bike and the fancy FS MTB I bought, one of them from here, when my knowledge of what I was doing didn't match the price I was paying.
Post edited at 20:07
In reply to FreshSlate:
Jingo Wobbly Southern Sandstone guide, I had left the area but bought it for nostalgia as I'd lost the previous guide. Wish I hadn't as it's probably the worst guide book in the world.
Various climbing boots that were cheap, but was sure I'd make them fit eventually. Then there was that bar of Kendal Mint Cake!
Jingo Wobbly Southern Sandstone guide, I had left the area but bought it for nostalgia as I'd lost the previous guide. Wish I hadn't as it's probably the worst guide book in the world.
Various climbing boots that were cheap, but was sure I'd make them fit eventually. Then there was that bar of Kendal Mint Cake!
In reply to wilkie14c:
That its the best guidebook ever written?
> llanberis slate guide book
> WTF was I thinking??
That its the best guidebook ever written?
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