/ Siurana Rope Length

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james1978 - on 17 Apr 2014
So, as the title suggests. I'm heading out to Siurana at the end of the month and was wondering if I can get away with my trusty 60m rope or whether I'm going to have to bite the bullet and splurge for a new 70....

Thanks for any help in advance.....
willoates - on 17 Apr 2014
In reply to james1978:

a 60m rope would limit you quite a lot i.e. lots of quality 30m+ routes. 70 is on the limit, I took a 70 and could just about do the taller routes on it, a couple of times i had to downclimb a couple of meters. If i was going to do it again I would definitely buy an 80m because as soon as I have to chop my 70m it won't reach and i'll need a new rope. Bite the bullet, it will save you a lot in the long run.

Will
1poundSOCKS - on 17 Apr 2014
In reply to james1978: I agree, I'd get an 80. Gives you the option of some great routes at Montsant too.

james1978 - on 18 Apr 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Thanks for your help with the replies guys. Looks like an 80 it is then...
Oli - on 18 Apr 2014
In reply to james1978:

Get an 80. It'll give you more options and when you inevitably shag one end of the rope, you can cut it off and still have a long enough rope for most routes,
mountain.martin - on 18 Apr 2014
In reply to james1978:

I was out there in March and there is plenty that can be done with a 60m rope if you are just going for a week, so I don't think a 70 or 80m is strictly necessary unless you are going out for a long time or have your eye on some particular routes.

But if you are thinking of buying a new rope anyway then a longer one would seem to be the way to go.
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r0x0r.wolfo - on 18 Apr 2014
In reply to james1978:
From UKC article.

"What gear and which guidebook do I need? The usual sport climbing rack of about 10-15 quickdraws, plus a 60m rope should get you up most things in Siurana. However, there are now some excellent 35-40m(!) pitches in the area so a 70 or even 80m rope would be useful if you don't want to miss out (especially at sectors El Pati, Salt de la Reina Mora, L'Aparador, Can Codolar in Siurana and also at El Falcó or many of the Montsant crags)"


There's this weird bias I find when it comes to sport routes. Even if 60% of the routes can be done with a 50/60 there is an insistence to urge people to bring the length rope that allows them to climb those 5-10% of routes that otherwise you can't do (80m). There is definitely a selection bias when it comes to the longer routes, and I understand why. However those who take a 60m will probably say "it's completely fine with a 60m, because they're looking at the 60% of routes they can and not the 40% they can not.

However if the extra 10/20m makes the difference between climbing that one or or two inspirational routes, then it all seems to be worth it. Especially to those who have dragged that length around :). Everyone advises the size and length they brought in most cases. Anyhow if you do go big, then make sure it's a fairly skinny one and keep half an eye on the baggage allowance.

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